My Poor Poor Eyes

18 Jun

In a conversation a few weeks ago with Trena we both came to the conclusion that our eyesight was changing and it may be time for readers. This was ever more clear to me with my recent blind hemmer purchase. What? I got a blind hemmer? Yeah… I did.

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This is a Chandler Mini Skipper.  It has a curved needle that I spend about 30 minutes trying to thread. I remember as a child my mom would have me thread her hand sewing needles. I thought it was such a joke. I mean, who can’t thread a needle? I’ll tell you who can’t. ME.

  • Perfect or sewing all weights of materials including synthetics, woolens, cottons, fabrics and knits
  • 1 to 1 non-skip stitches, typical operations include felling edge tapes, bottoms of trousers, cuffs, wigging in sleeves, facings to canvas and knit goods, turned-up bottoms of fully lined coats, padding collars and lapels, and reinforcing trouser seats
  • 2 to 1 skip stitch for hemming dresses, skirts, slacks, trousers, sportswear, ladies coats, draperies, blouses and other articles 
  • Suitable for felling operations requiring a skip stitch to simulate hand-stitching
  • 2 to 1 skip stitch is recommended for synthetics and other lightweight materials and 1 to 1 for heavier cotton, woolen and linen goods

I got this for $90 on eBay. It’s a Made in Japan vintage model for a company based in Massachusetts.  It’s heavy as a toddler at 30 lbs and runs seemingly quiet for a machine of its size and age.  Yet, I can’t tell you how it works. Using YouTube I was able to figure out how to thread it. But, the needle isn’t picking up the fabric.  I’m going to take it to the industrial shop here in Baltimore next month and get it cleaned up and hopefully ‘fixed’.

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I don’t know what struck me about getting this machine when at this point in my life I should be shedding things. But, I hate hand stitching. I’ve always been underwhelmed by a zig zag sewing machine’s blind hem. When I was picking up my (still needing a review) Babylock Serger, the sales lady was talking about losing a bid for a BabyLock Blind Hemmer for $150 on ebay. Based on that  conversation and the interweb discussions, I decided I wanted one.  Impulse? I guess if you decide over a month to buy something, than it was an impulse purchase :-D

Like my serger, I’ll let you know what I think. Hopefully this one isn’t a total dud.

 

Vintage Simplicity 8276: House Coat, Art Smock, Lab Coat, Beach Cover Up

16 Jun IMGP0696

I don’t really consider myself a modest woman per se. I think there is an appropriate mode of dress for most situations and the bulk of humanity ignores said accepted rules (i.e. football jerseys in church and pajama pants to the grocery store). One thing that is generally acceptable, but I’m too self conscious to do is walk around a beach or pool in my swimsuit. I. Just. Can’t. Not even in my skinny-but-thought-I-was-fat-20s. I always tossed on shorts or a tee shirt when I wasn’t in the water. There was a time in middle school where I would only get IN the pool wearing a tee shirt over my swimsuit. Heh. I actually didn’t even start wearing a two piece until near the end of college. Hmmm, maybe I am actually a prude.

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And, this is why I love that I can sew.  Even when they are super simple garments. Still feeling inspired by my trip to Detroit and the Motown Museum in May, I turned to my small vintage pattern stash when invited to the Eastern Shore to visit the boyfriend’s parents. No freaking way was I trotting around in my swimsuit in front of them. Especially because all we do is eat. Pizza, french fries, latkes, bread, ice cream, Italian ice…. you name it. I eat it when we visit. This 1969 beach robe from Simplicity was just what I wanted.

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I immediately knew I wanted to use a vintage bed sheet for my fabric. This plaid just stood out to me at the second thrift shop I visited. Oh, and check the sewing pattern at the top (which I didn’t take with me). There’s a yellow and pink plaid right there, BOOM.

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The colors are just the right era in bright yellow, orange and pale green. And, a beach robe hides a multitude of sins…

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The beach coverup was generally constructed when Trena came up last weekend for our annual Tour Dem Parks 25 mile bicycle ride through the City (gratuitous photo below). Yes, that is now my third bicycle. Yikes.

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She said it looked like a lab coat. I thought it looked like an art class smock. My boyfriend thought it was a new jacket for work…. None of these what a beach coverup should like like, right?

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Trena convinced me to lop of eight inches!! She also suggested I add tabs to the sleeves (I didn’t). And not to wear it buttoned (true dat).

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And here I am. With the teeniest Afro puffs known to mankind, heh. I’m obviously, not at the beach. But, in the backyard of the house we stayed. The view… amazing.

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You have to love vintage for putting darts into a casual garment. Darts my friends! There are also raglan sleeves and deep patch pockets that I placed on the bias.  In addition to shortening the hem by eight inches, I also lopped about four off the sleeves.

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The coverup reminds me of the house dresses my mom and aunt still love. I may have to whip one up just to wear around the house.

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But, for the beach, this is kind of ideal for me. I felt like I had some sun protection, felt confident prancing about and stood out along the boardwalk. I need to make another one in a solid material as I have two swimmers I made last year that are crazy prints. For real, totally happy with this simple cover up.

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Officiating Wedding #2

26 May

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So, I totally didn’t make a new dress to officiate my friends’ wedding on Saturday. The temps dropped and I ran out of time. But, that’s ok. I was able to wear this beautiful vintage yellow suit I bought two years ago.

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Man. I love, love, love this outfit. Also, it helps embrace my earlier decree about a Motown like vibe for the forseeable future :)

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It’s perfect for spring since it’s a heavy polyester dress and jacket combo. Definitely too hot for summer and maybe too bright for winter. But, a low sixties, sunny day in May: perfect.

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This is my second time officiating and my second time almost crying at the lectern.

These guys were my neighbors when I first moved in my house. They helped me put up my awning every season, fix broken windows, drive me to the repair shop and feed me at Thanksgiving when I couldn’t make it to my parents. When they moved to the suburbs I was worried we’d lose touch. But, we haven’t.

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I was truly honored to be asked to be a part of their ceremony.

Yellow, Black and White Maxi: Simplicity 3503

18 May IMGP6995

It’s not too often I outright copy Trena and make something because I saw hers. I mean, I get salty when I give her unloved fabric and she turns it into a masterpiece. When? Like this shirt and this dress.  I already know I’m going to be mad when she sews this fabric from China. Four years ago Trena made (now out of print) Simplicity 3503 and I was j-e-a-l-o-u-s. Don’t get me wrong, I’d made my own version and a version for a friend. But, Trena’s was stunning with the use of border prints. And, the version for me I gave away to Liz because I didn’t understand a FBA back then. Once I knew I needed an FBA, I just didn’t like the way the dress fit. Ann, if you ever ever ever get that fabric again, please send me a telegram.

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So, here’s my newest Simplicity 3503 (complete with a FBA), a good four years after the maxi dress trend peaked, lol. I’ve wanted to add more yellow to my wardrobe the last two years too. The fabric was in my stash from Fabric Mart and I scooped up an additional two yards at the DelMarVa blogger meet up last fall. I needed it too because of the way I wanted to cut out and place the various prints.

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This is one of the prettiest things I’ve made lately. But, guys. It’s a kind of a hot, happy-hands-at-home mess.

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1. I really really detest facings and sewing knits by turning under and stitching from the outside (wrong sides facing each other). I think it never looks nice and always looks homemade. My halter looks all kinds of janky on the outside edges because of it. And, I’ve already pressed the life out of it.

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The inside of the dress is also self-lined.

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2. To get the waist to fit nicely (I really shoulda/ coulda cut a whole size or two smaller), I took in the waist a few inches. I forgot that my facing knit at the waist band is SUPER stable. Which meant I couldn’t get the dress on after taking it in  as it wouldn’t stretch in the waist. To ‘fix’ that, I just sliced into the facing at the sides.

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Now, I could rip out the waist, recut and resew. But, I’m already not happy with the way the halter looks. I am going to put this dress in the magic closet and see if I have the energy at some point to redo the waist. But, for now. I just don’t have it in me.

You can see a little peek of my bra on the left under my arm. Well, that’s after I took the straps up by two inches on each side. I also made a one inch FBA and shortened the dress by four inches.

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Half of this was sewn on my new-to-me serger, the Babylock Imagine. So far, I am in love. I’ll do a separate post on it after I’ve sewn a few more items. But, this garment also made me get a serger. My Euro-Pro was chewing up and eating holes (while shredding and breaking threads) in this dress and many of the other knits I’ve tried to sew the last year.  I was so frustrated I wanted to *throw* it against a wall. It has served me well low these past 8 years. But, at $400 for the price from HSN. It has served its purpose and I bid it adieu to the sewing machine farm in the sky.

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I wore the dress today to a wedding/ logistics- rehearsal. I’m officiating the wedding next weekend at my friends’ home. Doesn’t a maxi dress just make you think of Miami and a pool?  In my mind I’m making something new to wear. But, I haven’t even started….

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Lots of Little Things

15 May IMGP6706

The last time I wrote, I promised I’d have photos of my latest project on me. Well, little did I know it would be a incredibly windy and biting 36 degrees (2.2 celsius) on Sunday when I wore the dress in Michigan. In case you’re wondering, that’s 35 degrees cooler than it was when I left Baltimore. It was just too cold to take pictures outside. I was hopeful that I’d get some pictures inside but, things were so rushed that it just didn’t happen. My occasional photographer didn’t seem all that interested in having a photo shoot for my sewing blog on the day he graduated from law school. The nerve.

I did get one photo in my dress. But….

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The lighting wasn’t good. My flash didn’t go off. I look sort of goofy. My waist (and fabric) were grabbed so tight that I look about three months pregnant in all the pictures!  The darts! They hurt my eyes. Blergh.

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I’ve not attended anyone’s graduation since my own. So, I was feeling super old school at this ceremony. I love this version (my third) of this Burda pattern.  I am obsessed with this seersucker. Karen gave me the remnants of her pieces of it. At this point this seersucker is… five years old? I’ve used it for several projects in the past. If I could get more, I’d buy a bolt and make a whole summer wardrobe just from this seersucker.

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Because it was so fricking cold, I did get to wear this awesome vintage leather coat that was gifted to me by a co-worker. Listen, people. There is something to be said for being known for loving vintage fashion.

This colleague kept telling me she was moving and cleaning out her closets and had some coats to give me and I kept rolling my eyes. I have been the sorry recipent of terrible 80s patterns and ratchet clothing from other people. She dropped them off in a garment bag and it sat in my office for weeks before I took them home or even bothered looking. I finally opened the bag and this and another GORGEOUS  black wool  with a fur collar coat were inside. I rocked the hell outta this jacket over the weekend. This makes me want to save ALL THE VINTAGE in the world. Like, all of it. I want to own it ALL, wear it ALL and be fabulous in ALL OF IT. ME ME ME.

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It only took my third trip to Michigan to have time to sightsee. I’m always here for a few days and running in and out of town on other people’s schedules. But, this time, I finally got to go to Detroit! I’ve always wanted to see Detroit since it’s compared so much to Baltimore as a urban city with a blue collar background (and massive population declines). We were super short on time but I made sure we went to the Motown Museum.

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Oh. Em. Gee. We couldn’t take photos inside.  Let me tell you. I grew up listening to the sounds of Motown and was completely stoked to walk the same halls and be in the recording studio where the likes of Marvin Gaye, Stevie Wonder, The Supremes, and the Temptations walked and sang.  Especially exciting was their exhibit on girl groups. People, I need you all to be prepared for my style the next few months to be heavily influenced by the 1960 girl groups of Detroit and the Motown sound. I am not playing. Talk about serious black glamour. I’m going to be doing plenty of sheath dresses and empire waists.

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Finally, before I headed out of town, I did get to go to the Original Sewing and Quilting Expo with Robin, which was in Baltimore. I’ve never been to an expo before and my MAIN motivation for going was to check out the Babylock serger with Jet Air Threading and a Juki semi-professional straight stitch only machine. My modern Kenmore’s tension is so wonky that I sewed the above dress on my green vintage Kenmore. I’m in the market for a new machine in a few months.

Well, Brother, Pfaff and Babylock (all sponsors) were there. But, Juki (also a sponsor) wasn’t! I did test out the Babylock Imagine serger and purchased a pre-owned version. I’m picking it up tomorrow (Thursday)!

The fashion piece of the Expo wasn’t nearly where I’d like it to be. I heard Vogue Fabrics attended expos in the past. I like quilting quite a bit and enjoyed that aspect of the show. But, all the bitching and moaning from the vendors about the lack of attendees annoyed me. I mean seriously. I heard at least three stalls complaining about it to either me or to other vendors. I thought it was kind of tacky and a downer on something I’d been looking forward to for months. They thought parking was the reason people didn’t come. They thought crime was the reason people weren’t there. They thought no one likes coming in to a city. Whatever. I’ve never set foot in Chantilly, Va. But, I came downtown to see this. Make of it what you will.

Whew. So, yeah. Lots of little things going on. Just thought I’d get a lot of it said :)

Mojo Regained

29 Apr

Folks, I’m happy to report that my mojo is back. As you may have gathered from my posts, I’ve been super busy and have had a distinct lack on interest in sewing. Well, that finally broke this weekend. I wanted to whip up something to take to Michigan in a few weeks. I got an idea in my head about a late 60s style look for the weekend.

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This dress is from the September 2007 Burda Magazine. I’ve sewn it twice before.  I’ll post photos on my persons in a few weeks after I get to wear it. My main motivation for using the bamboo denim was to have something to wear this Vogue jacket with. If you recall, I never knew what to wear this jacket.  I also figured with spring  just reaching Ann Arbor in May, I’d want some extra coverage!

I also managed to serge a whole in the back of the skirt. I’m tentatively planning on adding a bow or something to the hole. I’ve also started a knit maxi dress that I’m pretty excited about. I’m taking that to Michigan with me too if I can get it sewn up on time.

I know dressform photos are rather dull. But, it’s been raining and going to keep raining the next few days. Plus, I really like to wear and take photos of new clothes the day of. So, please, continue to be bored :)

 

 

Toodles!

The Single Girl and the Five-Year Break

22 Apr

Guys. Don’t ever take a five year break from a quilting project.

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This is my Single Girl Quilt by Denyse Schmidt. I’ve had it in a plastic bin in the dark reaches of my basement since 2008. Why? I couldn’t remember. I started cleaning my sewing space this weekend and decided I wanted to finish this project. I rarely use my dining room, so I figured I’d  set up my Singer Featherweight and make that a quilting area. That way, I could work on it when I felt like it and didn’t feel like it would be in the way of other sewing.

But, guess what? My quilt is a mess. Allow me to explain.

I don’t have one single square complete. Even the ones that look complete, like these four, are missing the white outside border/backing in the lower right quadrant.

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Most, don’t have a section made to be able to complete the block (they are sewn in quadrants).

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Or, don’t have entire halves to sew

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And, more importantly, I have three (?) color palettes going (dark brown, light pink, dark pink)

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I laid these all out today so I could figure out what’s going on. It seems I need to take a quadrant each and go to the quilt shop. I don’t have a lot of these fabrics left and I need to buy some material in the ‘right’ color zone to finish this out.

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But, this does remind me about the one thing I don’t like about quilting. Picking out fabric. I get so incredibly overwhelmed. I tend to just want to buy a kit or let someone pick it all out for me.

So, again I tell you, don’t take a five year  break from a project.

Book Review: Just Make Them Beautiful

21 Apr IMGP5731

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Apparently, this last week was the anniversary of Grace Kelley’s 1965 wedding to Prince Ranier of Monaco. I thought it was high time I let you know that I *finally* read her wedding dress designer’s book, ‘Just Make Them Beautiful’. The book was published in 1976 and was limited edition at that time. There are few copies floating around and those for sale are in the $100s of dollar range. My wonderful, Japanese reading and writing Cornell University-attending intern not only orders Japanese sewing supplies for me. She also borrowed the book through Cornell’s library over winter break.

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Helen Rose’s book is a true delight. I’ve wanted to read it for at least a decade.  Through her own words you get a glimpse into life as a costume designer. She started off as an art student in Chicago in the late 20s and stumbled into costume design. She began sewing for stage productions and eventually came to California and went to MGM. She herself didn’t sew. She would draw wonderful pictures and a team of seamstresses would bring it to life.

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Her book is filled with such luscious descriptions of designs and fabric that you are transported back to the heydey of Hollywood and the studio machine. She has personal annectodtes of stories of the stars she worked with including 19 year old Grace Kelly, Judy Garland, Lena Horne, Elizabeth Taylor, Esther Williams, Joan Crawford and more.

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The book includes photos of the designer working and water colors of her design ideas. My photos are blurry as the binding was too fragile to scan and the flash bounced off the pages. Plus, when I got the book it was December, so too cold for outside. But, at the bottoms is a youtube video with clear pictures.

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Even better, you can see some of the watercolors and how they came to life with fabric and needle. I also recognized some of the costumes from movies I’ve adored over the years including High Society and A Designing Woman. There are a few dresses from a Designing Woman that I’ve obsessed over. Especially, this red one.

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Some of the dresses are very familiar including costumes from High Society, Butterfield 8 and Cat on a Hot Tin Roof

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Immediately after reading the book, I started trying to figure out how to make the Maggie the Cat dress for myself!

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Roses’ designs were so well loved and oft-imitated, that she started her own retail line where she sold the Maggie the Cat dress (in a far simplified version) among other lines. I’ve never seen any of her designs in vintage stores, but would snatch one up in a heartbeat if I did.

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If you can find a copy of this book and are into old Hollywood glamour, I recommend you check this one out. It’s a visual eyecandy.

Here’s a wonderful slide show on YouTube of the photos from the book.

More on #GBSB

12 Apr

Hello Kids,

The second episode of the Great British Sewing Bee has posted. And, the UK’s Thrifty Stitcher was the technical adviser for the show. Each week she posts background information on the challenges and addresses some of the things I was wondering like why they didn’t have sergers on the first episode.

 

I thought I would now start my whisper campaign to be the host of the yet-to-even-be-considered US version of the Great American Sewing Bee. See how I’m taking myself out of the cooker of *sewing*? LOL!   I know how to sew and have a TV background (in that I was a news anchor and reporter for a few years out of college). And, *just* like the current host, I’m also naturally tan….  And, wouldn’t Susan Khalje or Ann of Gorgeous Things be terrific as the on screen sewing judge?

Great British Sewing Bee

6 Apr

ooooh. I love YouTube. Finally, a reality show for home sewers! The Great British Sewing Bee. The first episode has been bootlegged and placed online. They let you use patterns in the competition and actually just care about construction and skills. It’s *wonderful*. Ann Rowley from Stitcher’s Guild is on there too.

I devoured this epi while visiting Michigan again. It’s not snowing on this visit! Plus, apparently, it’s Hash Bash Weekend on campus.

 
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Apparently, the police ignore the marijuana laws for Hash Bash weekend. Let’s just say there are a lot of characters out. Between that and Final Four weekend, it’s a perfect storm of nonsense, lolz.