McCalls 6279: Denim Trench Dress

16 May file-10

I am predictable about many things. If there are French fries on the menu, I will be ordering them. Given an option for a meal, I always vote for pizza or Mexican. I tend to perfer form over function. And, when it  comes to clothing, give me some trenchy military details and I’m all over it.

I first spoke of wanting a trench dress back in May 2008. But, time flies and I never got around to it. When this McCalls 6279 came out I *almost* didn’t get it because I have an April 2006  Burda with a similar style. But, I’m a sucker for not tracing.

On my list of projects waiting in my stash, I have a trench dress down in two colorways – denim and khaki. A while back someone asked me about being a little more busty and wearing double breasted garments. I’ve never really thought about it. My ribcage is small in comparison to, oh, say the rest of me, so maybe that makes a diff?

I *think* this fabric is from Joanns at least two years ago. It’s a thick denim with some stretch.  I washed and dried it three times and it’s still bleeding blue. What a bee-yotch to cut! My rotary cutter didn’t like it and my scissors just about gave up. My hand and tricep were screaming the next day!

I cut a 14 and took the dress in about 1/2 inch on each side – I could have gotten away with a 12. I made a 1.5 inch princess seam FBA. I made a 1.5 inch swayback adjustment and forgot (as I always do) to add length at center back. So, overall the skirt is is about 1.5 inches shorter than drafted.

This is me realizing that the underskirt is hanging lower than the front skirt. I’ll tell you a secret. I don’t really try clothes on while I’m sewing. I will for general fit once or twice without looking in a mirror (take in waist, etc.) but not to see what it looks like. This blows Trena’s mind. But, I’ve since fixed the wonky hem. So, for the rest of this post, let’s pretend it’s a perfect dress, shall we?

For finishing, I used my invisible hem foot and serged the insides. There is a facing on the inside and I used contrast quilting cotton for that. I wish I was a bigger binder. This would have been so pretty inside with contrast binding.

Topstitching is with Gutterman’s upholstery thread. I also, for the first time, used my edgestitching foot. People. There is some serious love now between me and this foot!

Buttons are from my new favorite source for buttons, Must Love Buttons on eBay and perfect for such a nautical themed dress. I had some simpler buttons, but after conferring with two friends went with these. I am currently obsessed with French nautical. Well, I can’t say currently. I’ve always had a thing for it. Kind of goes with my ‘trenchy military details’ obsession.

So, is this dress work appropriate? My other denim dress with military details is known at the office as my ‘Friday Dress’. So, now I’ll have two denim Friday dresses :-) It’s going to be a great weekend dress too. I can also see myself making up another version with sleeves in khaki.

There you have it! I didn’t do a review on PR. There are a slew of good reviews out there already. I would really love to try this in a peaches and cream seersucker I have, but will defer until next year.

My next two projects are in denim / navy blue. So, I hope you don’t get sick of this color on me.

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Butterick 5522: Navy and Lime Tina Turk

30 Apr IMGP3001

When I posted about my original red and camel version of Butterick 5522 back in January, Shirley commented that she had a similar dress in navy blue and lime green in the 70s.

I LOVED the color combo idea and quickly bought two navy rayon double knits from FabricMart. Unfortunately, I couldn’t seem to get a hold of lime green. Everyone was sold out! Luckily, Patti F. came to the rescue and tracked some down, special ordered it and I was able to get two yards for myself.

The weather here has been nutty. Cold-to-warm-to-cold- to allegedly mid 80s by the weekend again. This may be the last day that I can squeeze this in before it warms up. Considering it’s my only fabric purchase so far this year, I really wanted to make sure it was sewn up as soon as possible. The biggest difference between my two versions is the material. My original is a super stable double knit poly. This is a rayon. The rayon is much looser in weave and the fit is more flowey.  I think, with all the curves, I’d prefer something a bit more stable — especially if you’re new to sewing curves.

Since it’s a hair longer than the first, I feel comfortable wearing it to work. I prefer the look of the shorter version on me, but wasn’t comfortable wearing it to work (not that I didn’t!).

This length and color are much more work appropriate.  I wore it Monday to a press conference at Fort McHenry.  *cough* Now is my time to remind you that Baltimore is the birthplace of the Star Spangled Banner, the National Anthem of the US.  And, according to this morning’s announcement, home of the two best known symbols of America (anthem / flag) *cough*

I’m glad I wore it today too because we were outdoor and it was *cold*! Try standing around for an hour. Brrrrr. Our staff photog was kind enough to take these outdoor photos of me. I’m wearing my tweed ride cape from October! Never thought I would get this much wear out of it. But, it’s a great piece and one of those things everyone loves when you put it on.

My serger was operational this time around too, so I used it for all construction steps. The dress just took a couple of hours to make.  All the alterations had been made and I knew the steps. Hmmm, I also see my shoulder in this are way long. I’m going to change the pattern a bit by taking away some of the width of the neckline and shortening the shoulder. I have narrow shoulders. I just tend to ignore them :-)

If you’re wondering about the sexy hand brace above. It’s my tendonitis which I usually manage pretty well. But, my next project is out of denim and it did a NUMBER on my hand in the cutting. Between that and yard work this weekend, I haven’t taken the brace off since Saturday and was popping ibuprofen like candy. Pooh.

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Dude, I Got a Dog

20 Apr

Hey there!

Meet Linus van Pelt

Yep. I got a dog. For reals. I was totally freaked out about it too. In the way that I panic when I think about having children. On our first night together, I got him home, walked him, fed him and then just stared at him. I just had no idea what was next, LOL. Is that what happens when you bring home a newborn?

Happily, things have been working out. Linus is three years old and already housebroken. He’s a 10 lbs Chihuahua (omg. I’m totally going to have to learn how to spell Chihuahua without relying on spell check). He was found abandoned in South Carolina, transported to a rescue here in Baltimore. He spent several months in foster care before I came along. The foster mom *cried* when she dropped him off to me.

He already knew some basic commands, he’s not a barker (well, he does bark in his sleep), not a whiner, fully housebroken and sweet, sweet, sweet.  The foster mom said (and was right) that he’s perfect for a first-time pet owner. I’ve NEVER owned a dog. I’ve thought about it off and on over the years, most recently when I dog sat Frida for a friend. You guys gave me some great advice and encouragement. So, this time I just decided I was going to do it!

I named him Linus after the Charlie Brown character (Lucy is my favorite character).

Since he’s a boy, I do not plan to fully emasculate him in frilly outfits. My friends got him this raincoat and he’s so stinking cute I can’t contain myself. He gets cold pretty easily, so sweaters are totally justified.

So, that’s my big news! I also want to say thanks to the readers who have checked in on me. I am sorry to report that outside of Linus, things are still pretty crappy over here. I haven’t been sewing (obvi) because I just don’t feel like it.  I commemorated  Easter and my birthday with a boyfriend break up. Let me tell you. Breakups are crap. But, a breakup over a birthday which  is pushing you in to the twilight years of your 30s *sucks*. Like sucks super crazy Hoover-level hard. But, it’s all good. Or, it will be in its own time. I’ve been to this dance before and these things have a way of working themselves out. Plus, each new boyfriend the last four years has been an upgrade on the previous years’ model. Who knows what’s next?  It might just mean that  Idris Elba and I have a real chance at happiness ;-) .

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Lacy Nightgown: Burda 11/2001 #131

7 Apr IMGP2937

Burda World of Fashion 11-2001-131

I apologize now for not being able to show this to you on either my persons or correctly on my dressform. Because the bust cups are lace, they were not exactly internet appropriate. At least not the kind of internet that is free. Sadly, I wasn’t able to get it on my dress form either because of the small bodice and lack of collapsible shoulders on the form.

Which is the perfect segway into the nightgown (or slip. Take your pick.) I’ve wanted a nice night gown for a while. Well, I’ve wanted *anything* nice to sleep in for a few years now. I’ve made pajama pants in flannel and a full outfit back in 2007 but nothing ‘nice’.

This is made up in a silk/cotton blend from India that was a gift from Bhoomhika. I like to sleep under a blanket no matter the temperature. So, I wanted something cool and breathable for summer. The fabric has a wonderful hand a gorgeous sheen. It does ravel like you would not believe so serging was a must.

The lace is from Etsy and is a mirror image.

I cut the size 38 grading to the 44 through the thighs. For the bust, I made a 1 inch FBA. Now that I’ve tried it on, I could have (and have since) added at another 1/2 inch.

I didn’t really follow the Burda directions. For this version they do not  cut the dress on the bias. But, knowing you’ll be sewing from silk, they provide the full pattern piece (since silk is not as wide and would be hard to cut on the fold).

For the the side lace that was not scalloped, I used clear elastic and turned it down. I also used a little clear elastic in the cups to have them snug up (you do this when sewing bras).

For the hem, I attached the lace on top of the silk/cotton. This is called a ‘reinforced’ method taken from my Sewing Lingerie from the Singer Sewing Reference Library. I would not use this method again for a hem that is not perfectly straight. The lace doesn’t lay smoothly. I didn’t think about this when I decided to use this method. And, it may be better suited to a double scalloped lace.

This color  looks really good on me despite my cups running over. I’m a tad sorry you can’t see me in it! I may send this to my mom. I’m narrower through the rib cage than her though so it might be tough for her to wear.

I’m debating another version in  a silky mint green.

If you’d like a slip or nightgown and don’t have a 10+ year old Burda, have I got great news for you! Pattern, Scissors, Cloth has a gorgeous slip called the Ruby Slip for *Free*. I should have just made this myself!

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Jalie 2796: Multi Sport Skirts w. Compression Shorts

4 Apr IMGP2872

Circa 2012

I went for a run the other day in my red and grey Jalie multi sport skirt with attached knickers (think cheerleading bottoms) and am 90 percent sure the bottom of my butt cheeks were playing peekabo with the hem of my skirt.  I was plodding along (I am ridiculously slow) and thinking my butt felt kind of cold then went in to a panic because I realized my butt wasn’t covered. Luckily, it was foggy and 6:00 a.m. so no one saw me ass out on the track. But, I came home and recognized I was going to need to make up new skirts with the compression shorts instead of knickers. I think the knickers might be better for me and biking or for those of us you who are less endowned in the rear.

This time I made three pairs with different fabric combinations. Here’s my advice when it comes to sewing these.

Plan on making multiple pairs with the same material. Each fabric produced a different fit because of changes in knit and slight changes in design.

Second, I lowered the waistband at center front. It rode way high on me as you will see below.

Third, I think the shorts are just too long for me. I’ve seen some running skirts where the shorts are visible. It’s not a look I wanted. Not having run in each pair, the length may be there for ease purposes. But, I think that you’re better off with very snug shorts that do not creep rather than longer shorts. Also, I don’t run long distances so chaffing isn’t an issue for me. Longer shorts may be better of that’s a concern.

I’m hoping these three pairs cover me through my (alleged) three runs and two bicycle commutes a week. I cut the US women’s size 8 / European 38 / Jalie ‘U’ initially. I should probably make the 10 / 40/ W with the size 6 / 36/  S waist if I stuck with this material. Any stretchier fabric and and I’d be fine having cut the size 8 / European 38 / Jalie ‘U’ .

 I’m also happy to report the compression shorts take care of my chub rub and have a slimming effect to boot.

There is a HUGE value in making a running skirt. I’ve seen them priced between $35 and $100 each. I like skirts because they are much more flattering on me and I always get stopped and asked where they can be purchased. Also, I feel less self conscious in a short skirt that short shorts.

For the main skirt of all of them, I used this cotton backed, navy blue athletic mesh with crosswise stretch I bought during PR Weekend Montreal two years ago. I think it was about $5 a yard.

Fist pair are my ‘M Go Blue’ shorts in navy and maize. I’m not a University Michigan fan and didn’t go there. But, I dated a massive Michcigan fan so I’ve seen more of their football games than I have of my alma matter, the Maryland Terrapins. The shorts on this pair are a nice thick, black wicking supplex from New York.

This was my first pair and I quickly found that the waist was too high at center front. And, ummm, way too tight across center butt.

The snug rear actually doesn’t bother me so much. But, I do think the skirt may ride up overall while jogging.

My second ‘Hooah’ pair in navy and grey are a bit of a mess.

I thought the first pair was too snug across my thighs and I decided to add some width throughout. Expect, I didn’t make the waistband bigger. So, there are some unplanned tucks in the waist band. Ultimately, shrug. They are going to be sweated in.


And, they were still too big in the waist — a problem I have with my original red pair (shown at the top)

The compression shorts on these are from my AMAZING wicking Suziplex material from Montreal. It’s smooth on one side and snuggly on the other. But, way too stretchy to actually compress in the size I cut. I need to take them in A LOT. And, I do not recommend making compression shorts in a light fabric. I look like I have on a diaper!

This final pair are the colors of my high school, so we’ll call them my ‘Shenandoah  Stars’ version. It uses the NYC black supplex for the compression shorts and I went with white for the pocket / side panel contrasts. This time I did a slash and spread in the skirt so I could maintain the nice snug waist line but get some more width at the saddlebags. Ahhhh, ease.

These were by far the best shorts! I found them in my sewing room, cut a few years ago but not sewn. They are the US women’s size 6 vs the siz 8 / 10 I’d been cutting. The supplex is strong and really compresses well. And, I hacked two inches off the bottom.

So, nothing too exciting, but absolutely useful. If you’re wondering when I became a runner, I haven’t. I’m on a the loooong  personal version of Coach to 5k  (It’s taken me three months to start Week 5 today!) I’ve also been an absentee blogger due to a fairly shittastic few weeks. There are people who clean when they are stressed. I am not one of them. But, I will exercise. Coupled by a lack of appetite and a general desire to kick someone’s — anyone’s– ass, these bouts are usually good for five pounds.

This was one of those times I’m happy I have a stash! I have two cuts of the Suziplex in eggplant and black and am thinking of turning them in to capris. My capris are both over five years old and size ‘small’ when I am currently wading in medium / large territory.

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The Curious History of “Tribal” Prints

12 Mar

There’s an interesting article my friend Liz sent my from Slate.com on Dutch Wax Prints. When I was in Ghana several years ago, it was clear that ‘Dutch’ wax was considered the best in ‘tribal’ prints. The article goes on to say that the prints we readily associated with West Africa are really more Indonesian than anything. Here’s the article if you’re interested.

Athropologie has used them to cover ottomans and to upholster chairs. Woolrich Woolen Mills turned them into short-sleeve button-ups, and Agnes B. used them to make a summer suit. Burberry Prorsum tailored them into prim dresses and separates, while over at L.A.M.B., Gwen Stefani has used them to make some of the smallest minis known to man. Even the new Marni collection for H&M is studded with them.* 

Here’s a link to the fabric I bought in Ghana and projects made by my sewing friends with it.

And the only one left in my closet is this Tracy Reese Vogue pattern. I have just one more cut left and it’s become ‘too nice to use’. I suspect I won’t even touch it until this dress falls apart.

I grew out of my original favorite… it now resides with my mom. I like to tell myself it was always too small in the bust… If I could get my hands on this material or a similar border print, I would sew it up again in a heartbeat.

Sewing From My Stash

9 Mar

I’ve had extra time on my hands the last few weeks due to my frequent male companion’s six and now seven-day work week (project roll out). While I am sorry for him, I’m pretty happy with all the extra evenings I’ve been gifted. One of the projects I’ve tackled with this windfall of free time is cleaning up my basement / sewing area. Twenty minutes a night for a week seriously cleared out 50 percent of the clutter. I went through bins of fabric. Not organizing really, but taking a cue from Trena and making a concerted effort to sew from my stash.

I’m not even talking random projects to use up my stash. But projects that I actually already want to make.  In truth, I was shocked to see that I had at least 30 projects when I compiled my list. Thirty projects with pattern and fabric matched! I could sew at least two garments a month and still not be done in a year. And, I’ll be honest. There are still about 100 cuts of fabric outside of those 30 projects. My slide show is below (RSS Readers, please click through). Some of the items I’ve made before, but want to re-make. Some are so that when a wedding comes around I’m not scrambling for an outfit to wear (I have at least one, possibly three this summer in addition to two black-tie events).

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

My goals are simple.

  1. Not sew maniacally for events because I don’t have anything in my closet
  2. Sew the projects that I’ve wanted to work on
  3. Not be distracted by new projects or fabric. It just takes time away from things I want to make.

By focusing on these projects that I want to make, I want to avoid the sewing slump of not knowing what I want to make. By sewing things I’m passionate about, I can make room for new things and fresh ideas. I’ve made two fabric purchases this year.

There is material in my stash I ADORE. But, I don’t know what to do with them. If i focus on what I do have ideas for, that will allow me to think about those other projects. So, there you have it. Sewing projects for likely the next two years. Crazy, right?

I’m working on uploading my spreadsheet to Google docs so it’s all on public display :)

Hey Girl. Remember Me?

6 Mar

Yes…. this. This jacket is cursed. It is the Christine of jackets. I started this tuxedo jacket in Feburary 2011. Things were going swimmingly until I put the pockets in the wrong place. Then, I didn’t have any lining and had to wait until a run to the store. Once I got the lining that would help the jacket match the tuxedo pants I’d already completed, I was over it.

Ten months later I picked the jacket back up only to realize one of the sleeves was missing.

This jacket just does not want to get sewn. But, that’s not enough for me to call it cursed. Stick with me here.
So, in the last week I’ve cut and sewn the lining. And, I cut and sewed a new sleeve. Well, cut a new sleeve after I spent over an hour looking for the hopsack material to cut the sleeve. Except, once sewn, I realized I’d put the sleeves in backward (wrong arm holes). Cursed.

I may possibly be over the jacket again ‘cuz the tuxedo trend definitely seems to be leaving town!

Oh. And remember how I sharpeid the grey cloth buttons I had because the shipping on black tuxedo buttons cost more than the buttons? Yeah. Couldn’t find the originals. I suspect they jumped ship with the original sleeve.

And this is how it looks tonight. One sleeve in. The other on the cutting table. I’ve done enough battle with this jacket for a few days. I don’t even know why I was so anxious to try and finish! Yes. Time for another break from the tuxedo I’d say.

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Meet My Tailor

1 Mar

I really should wear more suits to the office. Not every day. But, at least a few times a week when I have meetings with outside people or am with my boss. My female boss wears a suit every day. Her female boss wears a suit ever day. I don’t.  I look nice. I look creative and I look fun. 

A few months ago I was at a meeting at the Pentagon. I was the youngest person in the room by 20 years. Not only was I one of a few women in a room of 50 people, I was the only woman of color. And, I was the only person not in a suit or uniform. I felt incredibly conspicuous.

I realized I was just not going to sew the suits I had in my mind. On my way home from that meeting, I stopped at the outlets and stocked up on about six suits for under $100 each. They all needed altering. I’m not a standard bust, I have muscular legs and a massive swayback. My purchased suits needed fitting.

I thought I would do it myself. But, last week I realized it wasn’t going to happen and took them to my tailor, Liliya. She’s a former neighbor who started an alteration and custom clothing business. Liliya is originally from Odessa, Ukraine. She told me she was so surprised to come to the US and see that women didn’t fix their own clothes and that a living could be made making alterations.

Now to be fair, she gets annoyed with me because she thinks she’s taking me for a ride. But, the truth is, I don’t have the time or desire to do alterations. As we’ve discussed, it’s a different skill set. I’m way more in to the creation of a garment. Not the fixing of it. And, my time is worth paying for.

And so now I can be far more relaxed in my sewing! Everytime I sewed something not work appropriate I would be a little mad at myself. But, now I’m free to sew what I want! I don’t have to stress every morning about what I’m going to wear. It reminds me of when I had a part time job at Lord and Taylor *just* to buy suits. I was a speechwriter in the Governor’s Office and everyone wore suits. Even the support staff.  That was well over 10 years ago and I’ve grown out of every single one of those suits. But back then, I sewed much more for fun rather than function.


Liliya takes my pants and blazers in at the waist and hems my skirts and trousers. These pants took in nicely. There are a few that now dip at CB, but they fit!


I’ve also invested in disposable dress shields. Sexy, right? I do plan on making some fabric / cotton ones in the near future.

But, I will need a lot more shells and blouses.  This sequin tank is from J.Crew on clearance. At the end of the day, I also feel much more put together at work. When I wore this suit, I had four different people tell me how nice I looked and my boss specifically said, ‘professional’.

Last night I was asked if I consider suits to be more professional than dresses. No, I don’t. Especially woven dresses. But, I think other people do. This person noted the Hillary Clinton pantsuit as his example of it being more professional.  What do you guys think? Are dresses as professional as suits?

1940s Puffy Sleeve Dress: Burda Magazine 5-2009-122

27 Feb Page_1-3

Well, hello sailor! I am digging the World War II era vibe from this Burda 5-2009 #122  dress.

It feels like I’ve just been cranking out projects lately. But, I’ll let you in on a little secret. I started this dress a little over three months ago back in November 2011. I thought it would be fun to wear to the DC Tweed Ride but only managed to finish my cape. Then, I started  thinking I would wear it to church when I was visiting my parents in Florida at Thanksgiving.  I never got around to finishing the dress on the trip because I left one of the sleeves back home. Once I got back to Baltimore I wasn’t insterested in sewing a non-winter dress.

But, last week, I decided it was time to clear the sewing deck and tackle one of my three UFOs. It’s really just taking up mental and physical space. You’ll understand that I don’t remember too many details at this point.

Alterations? Just my now standard FBA and a swayback adjustment. I also raised the center front waistline by about two inches (perhaps over modulation on my FBA?). I’ll be honest. I don’t think this is a great dress if you are busty. It’s a very full top with all the tucks and the waist isn’t super defined. You may look a bit ’round’. I don’t think this is my most flattering silhouette. Not bad. Just not my best. But, I still like it. I think it’s best suited to a tall and lean Audrey Hepburn vs busty / curvy Marilyn Monroe :)

The dress has 52 pleats. Fifty. Two. Pleats. That includes pleats in the sleeve, sleeve lining, upper bodice / shoulder, bodice waist and skirt. I really really have to recommend that you baste the pleats. I do usually just pin in place, but for this many, I think you’ll be happier with the results if you hand baste.

The material is a wool challis from the Carol Collection. All deep purples and blues with paisley. Again, another fabric I would not have chosen for myself. But, is lovely for fall. The pattern does not call for lining, but I added a lavender silk for lining (also from the Carol Collection) and it’s absolutely luxe! Seriously. I would sleep in this dress just because the lining feels so very good.

The one thing I do not love is the neckline. Even with interfacing for reinforcing, one side is a little warped. Not enough for me to take it apart and fix. But, enough for me to notice. I wish I had used a facing / lining combination. The silk ins’t really stable enough to hold up the neckline well.

Overall, I’m pleased with the dress. It’s not my usual somewhat sleeker style. I love puffy sleeves and a full skirt. But, I do feel a bit twee and Talbots at the same time. Maybe because it’s retro I feel like I’m playing dress up a bit? I felt the same Talbots and twee feeling from this 2007 Burda dress from five years ago (mmm, would like to make that one up again now that I know to make an FBA). That being said, I plan to make this dress up again in a black washed silk that Carolyn gifted me about two years ago. Not the most ‘original’ idea — it was how they made it up in the magazine.

While the tucks and pleats are daunting, it’s well worth it for a fun design.

My pattern review is here.

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