Archive | January, 2009

The Sleeves of the Jacket

31 Jan

I’m at a pivotal point folks. I cut and sewed the lining, inserted the sleeves and sewed on the pockets. That means, it’s time to insert the lining. I have never, ever, had a pretty jacket lining insertion. Like, ever. So, I’m putting this down until I feel like tackling it. I also need to interface the hems and I’m not feeling my iron right now. In the meantime, here’s what I did with the poofy sleeve to keep it poofy.

First, Marji who blogs at Fiber Arts Afloat, is a goddess. She suggested I use ‘Bridal….’ Oy. Crud. I can only remember the name of the Joann brand ‘Bridal Inspiration’. Ummm, the one I mean is Bridal Indulgence? Bridal Intentions? Sigh. I had it in my mind until I sat down at the computer. At any rate

she said ‘youu want to either use  a bias strip of silk organza gathered up as a sleeve head to support a puffy sleeve in this jacket with this lightweight wool OR use a straight piece of bridal illusion netting, similarly gathered. Netting has no bias.” Su-wheeet. Done and done. Brilliant.

One more fashion related post

30 Jan
My good friend bought this Milly dress last month for a whopping $360.

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Dr. Jill Biden wore it to the innaguration. See the video on MSNBC here

Butterick 5314

Butterick 5314

Courtesy GorgeousFabrics.com

Courtesy GorgeousFabrics.com

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Do you think if I offered to make this for my friend she would pay me $360? Holy cow.

Random kind of Fashion Friday

29 Jan

I have always liked nail polish and loud jewelry. In fact, I remember taking my mom’s Fashion Fair nail polish and painting my nails this garish red when I was in elementary school. Then, being so afraid I would get into trouble, I scraped it off with one of those Afro-fisted black metal picks. I have fond memories of Bonnie Bell’s peel-away nail polish. In high school we could only wear ‘natural’ colors and I was always sneaking some version of brown or vamp on my nails. When I look back on my college graduation photo, I still remember the name of my nail polish (OPI’s Not in Kansas Anymore Red). Actually, I liked that color so much that a friend scooped up four bottles for me eight years ago when it was discontinued. I’m down to the last bottle and a half.

Now, I will be honest with you about what some would see as a bad habit. Retail therapy. Having something new (sewn or purchased) makes me feel better when I’m a little down. Well, so does a cold glass of Riesling.  But, having shot my fabric wad on the very first day of the month and not wanting to become an alcoholic, I went with a low ticket item. Nail polish, under $3 a bottle on the right websites and arrived today.

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I’ve been waiting all week for this Tiffany Blue color to arrive. You see, in loving jewelry and loving nail polish, it’s perfect for me. It’s called ‘For Audrey’  (ironic because I thought the book ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s’ was boring and oh, kind of racist. Still like the jewelry though :) ) If I was somewhat thinking, I would have put it on my toes instead of wearing it to work tomorrow on my fingers. But, I am not sure I care right now :)

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I came across this $198 hat on the Coach site while looking for inspiration for the March ‘Sewn Hat’ contest on PatternReview.com. Totally reminds me of the fedora in the now OOP Vogue 7460. I made this one for my mom over six years ago. Apparently, before I knew how to sew straight lines.

Vogue 7460

Vogue 7460

Heehee. In searching for photos I found this one of my dad modeling my muslin from six years ago. My head was too big to wear it!  Appropriate, as today was his last official day of work. He retired today after 28 years working for the federal system as a nurse. Isn’t he adorable?

 

dad modeling

dad modeling

Trickle Down Economics

27 Jan

Today was supposed to be my first day of class. Instead, I was greeted with this sign on the department head’s door:

random dress form at school

Due to budget cuts from the State, the following classes have been canceled or delayed by three weeks:

Luckily, mine was just delayed and not canceled. But, still disappointing. I did meet with the instructor and got the old 15 week vs 12 week syllabus to review. She also went over how the class will work.

We’ll be using a 1/2 scale sloper. Using this sloper we’ll draft to fit the 1/2 size dress form.

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1/2 scale dress form

1/2 scale dress form

They have about six 1/2 size dress forms. The beginning of each class will be lecture — leaving an hour or two for ‘lab’ where she’ll work with us on our designs.

Butterick Sloper

Butterick Sloper

Half-way through the semester, we’ll use Butterick 5746 to create a sloper with our personal measurements. This will become our full-sized slopers for ourselves. Using that, we will draft either a dress, blouse or skirt as our final project (no knits or evening wear / silky fabrics).

Pants are the only patterns we will draft completely from scratch. That, is due in May.

20 percent of our grade comes from each of these

  • Basic Sloper Set 1/2 scale
  • Pant Pattern full scale
  • Dress – full scale pattern
  • Final Project (original design garment)
  • Class work, homework, quizzes and holy crap a FASHION SHOW!

So, I’ll spend the next three weeks gathering supplies (I’m off to a good start thanks to AJ!). I will say I’m buying cheap plastic curves for now because I have dreams of this gorgeous wood set that Els showed on the Sewing Divas.

It was all made better when I came home to a long dreamed about fabric.

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Ahhhhh. Thanks to Carolyn who tipped me off over the weeked to this faux leather/shearling at Fabricmart for an OBSCENE $6.00 a yard (Sorry. It’s no longer on the website).  I am already dreaming of prancing into work this spring in the Hot Patterns Portobello Shearling Coat. When I say long-awaited fabric find, I’m not kidding. I’ve wanted this pattern for going on three years and bought it last year for fear it would be discontinued before I could find the right fabric at the right price.

Tailoring a jacket

25 Jan

The jacket project continues! I’m still wrapping my mind around not rushing through it. Steps I’ve taken:

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Interfaced the front and made a chest shield / shoulder reinforcement from interfacing

dscf7410Stabilised and eased the shoulder seam with twill tape

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Some kinda miracle because the front and back lines match up and I wasn’t trying i.e. didn’t think about it until I was pressing it.

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Made a back shield. Or is it back stay? Meh.

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Interfaced and pressed the pockets. They don’t look overpressed in real life.

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Interfaced the sleeve cap

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And spent a good hour on the phone with Marji addressing the sleeves and hemming. I’m also sorry to say that I haven’t even cut out the lining. I think we’ll be seeing March before I’m done with this project.


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Uhhhh. If you have these buttons from FabricMart and can spare a few, can you leave me a comment or shoot me an e-mail? I have enough to single breast the jacket, but I think I want a double row and don’t have enough of the large ones. I also have just two of the medium size for the jacket pocket and wouldn’t mind a spare in case I lose a button. The smallest ones will go on the pants. The pants that are cut and laying abondened on the cutting table.

Kinda Kreativ

25 Jan

I’d like to thank  Ann, Linda, Cindy Lou, and Tanya for nominating me for a Kreativ Blogger award. But, I’m going to take the easy way out and point you to both Carolyn and Sigrid‘s posts. Many of the people I’m thinking of have already been nominated, and I’ve been a bit overwhelmed the last few weeks and have not gotten to explore the newer blogs out there. I hope that doesn’t sound cruddy because you have been very loyal readers and generous in your comments (like Carolyn, I too am a comment ho).

The one exception to my exploring new blogs is Toby Wollin’s Kitchen Counter Economics. Last night I read several great posts and immediately added it to my RSS feed. It’s good reading and if you’re short on time, I have to point you to this post and this post. I’ve been trying to clean up the house to post for a roommate. I want to reach that six month’s salary in the bank and it’s not going to happen without someone to share my expenses. I was feeling kind of… umm…. too old to have a roommate. But, her blog knocked that thought right out of my head.

A relationship post

24 Jan

The end of a relationship is a funny thing. I had a best friend breakup well over three years ago and I still think about her all the time. Yet, I’ve had multiple boyfriend / dating breakups and after a year I rarely think about it. In the immediate aftermath of a breakup though, it’s all you think about and it takes your best effort to not share your piss and venom with everyone who surrounds you. It also takes a great deal of restraint not to burst in to tears in the middle of staff meetings. Trena and I were talking over the weekend and we both claimed to be experts at the breakup (after all, we’ve both been to this party before). So, over time, I’ve developed my personal rules of engagement for the breakup.

The number one rule? Be incommunicado. It serves no purpose but to drag it on. I don’t believe in closure. Closure is the end of the relationship. Conversations after the fact drag it out and take time away from your healing process. My personal mantra is that you don’t talk with them until you stop wanting to talk to them. This includes texts, emails, actual phone calls, etc. Set up an email filter to delete messages, suspend your Facebook account and give your cell phone to a neighbor at night if you have to.

Rule #2: Get back down to your dating weight. Truly. It works out the stress, will help you sleep better at night and will make you smile at the thought of how great you’re going to look when you do eventually see the ex.

Rule #3: Don’t lose it in the office.This falls under ‘Keep it Classy’. You don’t want your coworkers avoiding you and your bosses questioning your sanity. Life will suck more if you don’t have a job.

Rule #4: Use discretion.  This is also under ‘Keep it Classy’.  It’s your business, it’s personal, it’s private. Most people asking are being nosy and after two weeks, they won’t care and will have moved on to the next bit of gossip. Personally, I believe in the no explanation explanation. ‘Do you want to talk about it?’ ‘Thank you, but no.’

‘OMG. What happened?’ response: ‘You know, I’d rather not talk about it.’

Rule #5: If you need to talk, get a therapist. A dear friend said she went to a therapist so that she would have to sit and listen to her cry. They are unclouded and untainted in their assessment. Your friends love you, but they know you. Remember when Carrie and Big broke up and Samantha gave her a therapist’s card?

Rule #6: Ignore the following statements from people:

  1. You’ll find someone else
  2. Well, you didn’t date that long, so you’ll get over it soon enough
  3. It’s not like you two were married…
  4. You know, you’re so independent, I just think….
  5. Have you ever thought you might be happier with a woman?
  6. Have you ever thought about why your relationships don’t last?
  7. Well, I know you’re 33, but you you might still find someone
  8. I had such high hopes for you two

Rule #7: Remember that life goes on. Think about the last person you broke up with thinking that you would never be the same again. And think about how it doesn’t even phase you now. You’ll get to that point soon enough.

Remember this: You are not alone. Even when someone says, ‘who wants to be alone?’.  Geez. You have family,  you have friends, you have your faith. You are NOT alone.

For those interested

23 Jan

Thanks for the well-wishes on my coursework. It’s a rough time to be jiggering with your work schedule. But, I’ve wanted to do this for the last three years.

For those who asked, the pre-req is FASH 100, Apparel Technology.

Apparel Technology
Create garments by hand and machine with technical perfection the goal. Students must have access to a sewing machine.

I went and met with the department head Wedensday in this dress and she waived my pre-req :)

My primary goal in taking this class is to be able to use the various Mrs. Stylebooks I have accumulated. My second goal is to be able to draft patterns from photos / RTW items.  My third goal is to someday have some kind of a second career from home in sewing. Maybe writing about sewing. Maybe drafting for other people. Maybe sewing for people. Who knows?  But, that’s why I’m going the ‘Apparel Patternmaking Track’

The Apparel Patternmaking track (within the Fashion
Design Degree and Fashion Design Certificate);
provides the opportunity for training in the specialized
area of pattern development for apparel design.

Courses are:

Fashion Patternmaking Track — Fashion Design Certificate Program
The Fashion Patternmaking track offers students the opportunity for training and retraining, in the technical field of pattern development for apparel design. Students will take selected Fashion Design courses to prepare for careers as patternmakers, CAD specialists, and stylists.

Course C redits
FASH 100 Fashion Design
or
FASH 200 Advanced Fashion Design 3 credits
FASH 104 Flat Pattern Design 3 credits
FASH 202 Computer-Assisted Pattern Design 3 credits
FASH 203 Design by Draping I 3 credits
FASH 204 Design by Draping II 3 credits
Certificate Total 15

The school also has drawing, fashion illustration and tailoring classes too. I’m only going to do one class a semester and they have no summer or winter session. So, I’ll be talking about this for a long time to come. I’m pretty lucky. The courses are about $300 for a three credit class. There is also a great fiber arts program at a local private arts college I can explore too when I finish up at BCCC.

Of course, this might not be my bag and I’ll move on to something else!

Baltimore: THE AFRICAN-AMERICAN FASHION LECTURE SERIES

22 Jan

I’m already pushing my work schedule with my classes, but how badly would I like to attend this local program? Can someone go for all of us?


THE FASHION DESIGN PROGRAM AND THE OFFICE OF STUDENT LIFE

PRESENTS

THE AFRICAN-AMERICAN FASHION LECTURE SERIES

THE THREADS OF TIME, THE FABRIC OF HISTORY

WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 11, 2009

LIBERTY CAMPUS, NEW BUILDING, COMMON AREA

12 NOON TO 2:00 P.M.

Ms. Rosemary E. Reed Miller, author of The Threads of Time, The Fabric of History will speak about the role and contributions of African-American designers to the world of fashion. Accompanying Ms. Miller will be Ms. Paula Brooks who will talk about pioneer Baltimore fashion retailer, Pauline Brooks, as well as some of the early designers, milliners, and retail merchants that contributed to Baltimore’s rich fashion history.

6a00e54f137f8d883400e553c3203888332 The Burda Version of the Kennedy dress

African-American Fashion Designer

Ann Lowe designed this wedding gown

for Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy in 1953.

The BWOF version ran in May 2008.


This time, for real

21 Jan

pattern4

At lunch today, I took my parents up on the BEST Christmas gift ever. I registered for FASH 104 at Baltimore City Community College:

FASH 104 FLAT PATTERN DESIGN (3 CREDITS); 15 LECTURE HOURS; 75 HOURS COMBINED LECTURE AND LAB. PREREQUISITE: FASH 101. LAB FEE.

Students are introduced to making patterns for apparel. Emphasis is placed on the use of master pattern for garments of original design. Further instruction is given in apparel construction.

I forgot how expensive textbooks are!  Classes start Tuesday. Thanks Mom and Dad!