Before I go over today’s lesson, I don’t think I need to remind you that I’m a rank amateur. I just think it’s fun to share what I’m learning. I’ll try to do this at least once a week. It helps me remember what I learned and might demystify it for others. Plus, if I’m doing it wrong, then the whole blogosphere can let me know.
So, dart manipulation is something I’ve heard about dozens of time online, but never had a clue really about how to actually do it. Or why I would do it. Today, we learned how to do it with the slash and spread method.
There are six places you can place a dart. I can’t find my handout, so I’ve got this page scanned from my Japanese Pattern Drafting book (I rue the day I posted it, lol. I should have waited until I got all three volumes. I paid like $20 for mine and now they are going for over $100.) Here’s a PDF scan001
We start with the one dart bodice sloper and trace it onto pattern paper.
So, I want to move the lower dart to up to the neck (F)
First, I mark my bust point by putting the pattern paper on my sloper (it’s the purple asterisk)
Draw a line from the BP to the Center Neck.
Also, draw a line from the BP to to tip of the original dart.
Slice through both lines removing the section.
Rotate the original dart closed, but, don’t overlap at the waistline. Tape it down.
Congratulations my friend. You’ve moved a waist dart to the Center Front Neck.
We did this today for all the darts (click to enlarge and read what the dart is called)
After that, we worked on adding seam allowances to make this an actual pattern. 1/2 inch for straight lines and 1/4 inch for curves (on a full scale we would add 1 inch for straight lines and 1/2 inch for curves).
Next Tuesday we’ll be doing the pivot and slide method. At some point over the weekend I’ll make a point regarding seam allowances and the bust point. But, I’m sleeeepy :)