Pattern Review: Burda Magazine 1-2008-113

11 Jun

This dress is a loooong time coming. Like, super crazy really long. I wanted to make Burda 1-2008-113 since it showed up in previews in December 2007! And, it was TOTALLY worth the wait. What took so long to even start making it? I was obsessed with making it it in a brown twill with red zippers and top stitching. Except, the right fabric never materialized. Then, I decided it would totally work in dark dark denim with the same red details.

The fabric is from Joann’s maybe two summers ago? Cheap too. Like $3 a yard. I washed it three times to get all the overdye out and minimize shrinkage. It’s got a fair amount of lycra in it.

I stuck with the red topstitching using regular thread in the bobbin and top stitching thread in the needle.

I also saved myself a lot of time and heartache by setting up my vintage Morse to tackle top stitching duties. BTW, all my sewing machines are now along the right hand side of my blog.

I used two-tone, double topstitching on the sleeves and hems to mimic a jeans pattern.

Trena talked me out of a similar course on the other seams. It’s funny, I’m all about the gimic. She hates the gimic.

I made a FBA of 1/2 inch by slicing one inch under the armsyce and spreading a la Sandra Betzina’s directions for a princess seam.


I also made a 1 inch sway back adjustment. People, I hate showing photos of my back. LOL. Please note it is purposefully the only photo that will NOT enlarge upon clicking!

These buttons were made a few years ago when I made the Amy Butler Betty Shopper bag. I omitted the bias strips at the back dart, the fabric tabs for the zipper at the pocket, and the shoulder tabs. The pocket directions do seem daunting at first, but if you mark you stitching and placement lines accurately, it shouldn’t be a problem.

I did use pocketing material in the dress. The pockets though, pretty, but kind of impractical.

Or, I have monster hands. They just kind of fit in there snugly. I love the pocket trend. But, are we really *using* the pocket?

So, the thing about this dress is that you should muslin. I ripped this dress apart approximately three times. First, because I messed up the markings in the back. The second time, because I realized I also messed up markings in the front.

The third time, because the neck was gaping badly (see green arrows above) and I wanted to redo the topstitching along the front. I’ve sewn the buttons on now three times. It’s my fault. I’ve been eyeballing them out of laziness! But, I’ll get around to having them sorted out.

Overall, I am THRILLED with this dress. It feels young and flirty  but not silly. I would absolutely make it up again. It kind of goes to show how timeless Burda can be. I have one more project and a couple of gadgets to show before I leave for Montreal on Monday!

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55 Responses to “Pattern Review: Burda Magazine 1-2008-113”

  1. youngwifey June 11, 2010 at 09:28 #

    What a great dress! I love the contrasting red details, it totally makes it!

  2. Robin June 11, 2010 at 09:45 #

    This could be my favorite Cidell creation of all time – for purely self-serving reasons :)
    I can see myself wearing this dress. And when that day comes; that day where i know how to alter any pattern for my shoulders and upper torso, it will come to pass. I will go through all my old Burda mags and sew up every cute dress I see.

    congrats on a super cute and flattering dress!

  3. Elle June 11, 2010 at 10:08 #

    The dress is lovely and you look fantastic in it. Why don’t you like showing pictures of your back? Before I read your comment, my first thought was “she has a great rear, wish mine looked that good”. Seriously, you have a great a$$.

    • Miss Celie June 11, 2010 at 10:17 #

      Ahhh! Thanks! Well. It’s huge and hard to fit in regular RTW. So, I forget until I see photos of it, lol!

  4. Jean June 11, 2010 at 12:14 #

    Super cute dress! I love the two-tone topstitching, the red details and of course those wonderful pockets! Funny how Trena talked you out of the gimic — I have a friend like that as well who’s great because she has opinions and she’s not shy about sharing them.

  5. Sherril June 11, 2010 at 12:36 #

    I love the fit you got in the back, especially since it’s a regular struggle for you. You’ll have to make more of these. As for the pockets, it really wouldn’t be that hard to remake that pocket bag bigger to fit your hands if you want them functional. Just trace a shape around your hand so you know they’ll fit. If you don’t do it for this dress, than for the next one you make since this pattern needs to become a TNT for you. You know I’m all about the TNT pattern.

  6. Auntie Allyn June 11, 2010 at 12:41 #

    You should be thrilled with your hard work . . . what a fabulous dress, and it looks terrific on you!!!

  7. lulu June 11, 2010 at 12:46 #

    This dress fits you so well and looks fabulous. It was worth all the ripping and re-sewing because the fit looks perfect from here.

  8. Dei June 11, 2010 at 13:55 #

    This came out great! All your hard labor was worth it.

  9. Branka June 11, 2010 at 14:05 #

    I Love Love this dress! It’s just so unique, the stiching is great, oh and your back picture is fine:)
    Great job on this dress!

  10. Colleen P. June 11, 2010 at 14:16 #

    The fit on this dress is AMAZING! But I have to object to your comments about your rear view-you have a beautiful figure! Look closely at the hip and shoulder width in the full back picture-you’re perfectly proportionate.

    This dress was definitely worth all the ripping out you had to do, it really suits your body!

  11. kathleen June 11, 2010 at 14:17 #

    This dress was totally worth all of your hard work! It looks great on you too. Tell Trena I love the top-stitching :)

  12. Colleen P. June 11, 2010 at 14:18 #

    PS-RTW really only fits a select group of people really well, and even that varies decade by decade. I think it’s unproductive to use RTW as a standard by which to judge ones own figure, considering how few people can really get great fit off the rack.

  13. Erica B. June 11, 2010 at 14:20 #

    Cute dress! Love the two-toned topstitching!

  14. Samina June 11, 2010 at 14:37 #

    That’s a great dress & it looks fantastic on you! I think it’s one of those timeless pieces that you’ll be able to wear for ages.

  15. spottedroo June 11, 2010 at 14:49 #

    Oh that is so super cute! Great fit and I love the top stitching details. Having another machine to handle topstitching is brilliant. (Hmm, now how do I find room to put second sewing machine in my studio?) Worth all the work and wait.

  16. Sharly June 11, 2010 at 14:49 #

    Really cute, versatile dress, and while it would have been lovely in brown, the denim is just perfect!!

  17. Kristin June 11, 2010 at 15:00 #

    Smashing! The dress is just cool, and you look fantastic in it. I think it’s serendipitous that you never found the brown twill because this color looks so damn good on you.

  18. Catherine June 11, 2010 at 15:02 #

    Two words: super cute!

  19. Angela June 11, 2010 at 15:29 #

    Cute! I love the topstitching and the red against the denim!

  20. Christina June 11, 2010 at 15:39 #

    I love how this turned out! I want one too! The denim was a good choice.

  21. Claudine June 11, 2010 at 16:07 #

    Fabulous dress. You will wear it a lot this summer. I love the topstitching and the zipper pockets. No, I never use pockets. It took me a while to realise this, and that I do not need to obsessively add them to all of my garments.

  22. Tasia June 11, 2010 at 16:18 #

    Looks fantastic on you! Worth the wait, I love the denim + red combo!

  23. Carolyn June 11, 2010 at 16:32 #

    It was definitely worth the wait because it is fabu on you! You should make it again! And I’m jealous that you’re going to Montreal on Monday…Enjoy!

  24. Cennetta June 11, 2010 at 16:45 #

    Excellent! Thanks for sharing all the details. The dress fits to a “T”. Very flattering.

  25. Angela June 11, 2010 at 16:58 #

    Fantastic dress. I love the details

  26. Liara June 11, 2010 at 17:08 #

    I think you look great in the dress! Clearly you’ve seen too many models’ backsides. Girls are meant to be curvy, and this dress shows what a great hourglass shape you have. I really love the zipper pockets and the red topstitching. Great job!

  27. Nancy Karpen June 11, 2010 at 17:08 #

    Cute dress. Nice fit.

  28. Victoria June 11, 2010 at 17:45 #

    I love this dress on you. It’s cute and I think it’s so flattering on you. There’s nothing like an awesome denim dress expecially with such great topstitching! This would look great in black denim and white topstitching! Great job!

  29. Vicki June 11, 2010 at 18:19 #

    Two things (well three)..

    1. pockets in dresses are not for your hands but for tissues, and small things you might want to carry. Very, very cute pockets!
    2. your back view is gorgeous! I was admiring how well the dress suited you and how beautifully shaped you are. And how well fitted the dress is. What’s with not likeing your back photos??
    3. gorgeous, gorgeous dress :)

  30. Vicki W June 11, 2010 at 21:49 #

    It turned out great in denim and it’s very flattering.

  31. arnysews June 11, 2010 at 22:14 #

    Love the dress – it’s fabulous in the denim and the fit is awesome. I agree with the other comments, it shows off your enviable hourglass figure perfectly. I know you say you love frills and ruffles, but the more tailored garments you make always look so good on you, well done.

  32. Elizabeth June 11, 2010 at 23:38 #

    THat is too cute on you!!! I love it. Great details.

  33. Brenda June 12, 2010 at 00:19 #

    Love it! How did you fix the gaping neckline? I have that trouble a lot and I also have a full bust. Hints, tutorial…… :D

  34. Kathy June 12, 2010 at 00:20 #

    Love this dress in denim. You have used color to accent it into something very special. Looks cute on you too. Noticed your Necchi isn’t on your sidebar- what happened to it.

    • cidell June 12, 2010 at 06:48 #

      You are right. I was wondering if anyone would notice! I had too many machines that I wasn’t using. So I donated it to a new sewer.

  35. Karin June 12, 2010 at 02:20 #

    The dress looks wonderful on you. Great fit! I generally don’t really like denim, but I have to say this looks great!

  36. Dana June 12, 2010 at 08:09 #

    Great dress, it’s really flattering on you!

  37. Sewista Fashionista June 12, 2010 at 10:18 #

    Awesome dress. It fits you so beautifully.

  38. Jali June 12, 2010 at 11:48 #

    Awesomeness. Love the vintage vibe about it with the more modern cut and great details. Just a cool dress overall. Have fun wearing it!

  39. Heather June 12, 2010 at 13:58 #

    Very cute dress and the fit is perfect. How did you solve the mishap with the back? Maybe I overlooked your explanation somewhere.

  40. Lisette June 12, 2010 at 14:31 #

    Great dress! I love all the topstitching. It looks really good on you, the fit is great!

  41. Marjie June 12, 2010 at 15:28 #

    That’s a really cute dress. It should be great in Montreal. Have fun!

  42. Lindsay T June 12, 2010 at 19:02 #

    That dress is just so cute and so you. I really love everything about it. I am seeing dresses like this on the PYTs of NYC these days.

  43. Gail June 12, 2010 at 20:03 #

    I’m so glad you rescued this dress. It is simply gorgeous on you and very original too.

  44. Charlene June 12, 2010 at 23:24 #

    GREAT Dress!! Looks so cute on you! You have a good eye for what works.

  45. mzchoize June 13, 2010 at 02:35 #

    This came out great, and I love the details and top-stitching!

  46. Mary Beth June 13, 2010 at 09:40 #

    I love that the bodice is long enough on this pattern to prevent the dreaded pg look. And the way you’ve styled it is great for summer. Very fun

  47. sheila June 13, 2010 at 15:27 #

    Lovely dress and you did a great job on the topstitching.

  48. Leanne June 13, 2010 at 22:10 #

    Love the dress! Kudos for being so persistent with the re-dos and adjustments to get a great fit!

  49. orchidophile June 14, 2010 at 07:21 #

    Wow! That is one good looking dress!

  50. senaSews June 14, 2010 at 09:35 #

    Great dress. Totally love the red topstitching on the denim fabric.

  51. allisonc June 14, 2010 at 19:40 #

    Love the dress, it fits you perfectly (as it probably should after ripping it apart 3 times you brave and patient thing) and is really flattering. I never post pictures of my back either though I would if I looked like you.

  52. Tany June 20, 2010 at 15:23 #

    Great dress, Cidell!!

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