Archive | August, 2010

Pattern Review: BurdaStyle Magazine 4/2008 #107, Trench Jacket

30 Aug bf67fd17-1

I’m DONE!

Whew.  The jacket is actually pretty straighforward construction. For this, I cut a size 40 and made a 1/2 inch FBA.

I added a center back seam to make my swayback adjustment.

The inside is finished with bias tape which I had to do when my serger died mid construction. But, it’s a beautiful way to finish an unlined jacket.

I made the back facing in the same contrast fabric as the undercollar and reverse of the chest gaurd.

The buttons were from a FabricMart.com bundle. The fabric is from a Michael’s clearance last year or the year before. Total project? Maybe $20?

I don’t know what happened to me, but my handsewn hem is terrible. If this jacket makes it through two weeks of China, I’ll have to even the hem out.

I do like all the topstitching. While cute, this fabric was all wrong for this jacket. It’s a very stiff denim – linen blend. It has no sheen whatsover and no drape. It was like making a jean jacket from canvas. The color is also pretty dull on me too. I’d like to find a summer scarf to spice it up.

I put the chest flap on the wrong side, not that I think it would make too much of a difference. I left off the pockets (made me look hippy) and the button loops. I don’t like this self fabric belt so I wanted the freedom to use a purchased one. I also placed the buttonholes too close to the front edge. My buttons overlap a bit too much.

I leave on Wednesday morning and for the first time in two months, I kind of don’t have anything to sew! I might try and make a sleeping mask. That could be done in an hour, tops. And, maybe an infinity scarf for the plane(s). LOL. I must be crazy.

The other fun thing I did this weekend was go to the drive in movie! Toy Story 3. I don’t know if I can go back to the theater after this.  So much fun!

Feeling Hopeful

28 Aug

Last night during construction of my 4/2008 trench jacket, I broke a serger needle. And, I couldn’t take it out becuase I needed a missing alan wrench.  Last night I started improvising and decided to try and Hong Kong seam finish on the inside.

Not that I’ve ever done it before. But, I have these nifty bias tap makers. How hard could it be? Turns out it’s not hard at all. Just more labor intenstive that I need for jacket that has to be finished by Tuesday.

Around mid afternoon today I gave up and bought a new Alan wrench. Not that I didn’t like the way it looked. But, I realized I didn’t have enough bias to go around.

I’ve also settled on these buttons. Trena gave them to me two years ago. Of course, I’m three short. Argh.

I am hopeful I can knock this out tomorrow. For now, I’m done for the d ay. Toy Story 3 is at the drive-in theater!

Pattern Review: Vogue 1086, Tracy Reese Dress in Ghanaian Wax Print

26 Aug 5d257d1b

I have to make a disclaimer here and say that I sew very infrequently from the Big 4 Patterns. I’m so used to the skeletal directions provided by Burda that I find myself almost confused when sewing from Big 4 patterns. So many words! So many markings on the pattern!

I pretty much buy every Tracy Reese pattern from Vogue that comes out. I love that she’s a young African American designer and I think if I want to keep seeing more from her, than I need to financially support her too. Luckily, her designs are worth every penny.

I decided to make a dress for my East Coast to Far East capsule because I have four days of business meetings and two banquets in Xiamen. Plus, I have a nice dinner planned for Saturday night in Shanghai.  A dress is perfect for these situations. There was some talk of business attire. I snorted. I *refuse* to take a business suit with me.

Alterations: I just raised the neckline up by 1.5 to 2 inches. I didn’t do a swayback and I didn’t make a FBA. I do find the top very roomy (I made a size 14) but suspect that’s partly the look of the dress. If I had thought about it, I would have piped the waistband as it gets a bit lost on this dress with my fabric.

For interfacing, I used a woven from Sew Exciting. It adds a wonderful crispness to the wax print. I used straight of grain interfacing on the neckline of the dress to stabilise it.

I planned to line the entire dress, but couldn’t figure out how to do the bodice. Well, I could figure it out, but I didn’t have time so just the skirt was done. I thought for like three seconds about trying to match up my print to cut out. But, I didn’t bother. It’s not a huge scale and I made sure to avoid having big flowers on my bust apex.

As I was sewing this dress, I was a little worried that it would be too ethnic looking. Not that it’s bad. But, I wanted the fabric to stand on its on and not look like I was misappropriating a traditional cultural print. The busy print of the fabric makes the details of dress hard to see. But, there is some lovely gathering in the shoulders and waist.

The fabric was purchased three years ago when I went to Ghana. I bought an OBSCENE amount of material. I salivated at the beautiful colors and tradition. I definitely purchased far more than I should have in retrospect. I have one last piece left and am still waiting for the perfect project.

So, in my last post I said I should rent a Kindle. Well, I went to the bookstore to get a guide book for Shanghai and made a TOTAL impulse purchase and bought the Nook. I loves it. I’m still taking my netbook with a few movies loaded. Thanks for the tips regarding iTunes. It sounds like the rented movies should work since I don’t have to login to the internet to watch them on my netbook.

And, now that I have a remote control for my camera, I take an OBSCENE amount of photos. And, you can think I’m vain, but I’m going to post them because I LOVE THIS DRESS. I feel fun and cute and skinny.

This is my Trena picture. Because I’m wearing my lime glasses, LOL. Totally retro, right?

Setting Myself Up for Failure?

24 Aug

I’ve been sewing like a bandit the last week because I’m a little behind in my China sewing. I lost a solid 1.5 weekends of sewing because the Vegan and I stopped seeing each other and I was actively engaged in perfecting my ability to eat popsicles in bed while in the fetal position. Of course, this took place in between wondering if I was ever going to sustain a long-term relationship and marathon watching of Being Erica. Happily, Trena came up to visit snap me out of it . We made pizza, drank some wine and now I’m generally back to my regularly scheduled life. Luckily, I tend to wallow for about a week and bounce back with vim, vigor and acute sarcasm. At anyrate, early in the planning process I planned to buy a blazer but never found one I liked. Now that my dress is done, I want to try to squeeze in one jacket. It’ll be cold on the plane, over air conditioned in my week of meetings and in the convention center at the trade fair. Plus, a jacket will extend my wardrobe from touring to business.

I’ve been obsessed and I mean OBSESSED with this trench style blazer from the April 2008 Burda for two years now. Oh, who am I kidding. I love trench and nautical. Period. I have the fabric on hand. A lovely linen cotton blend on clearance from Michael’s fabric a year or two ago. I just don’t know if I have the time. The Tracy Reese dress was finished last night  (photos to post on Friday or so) and this pattern traced out.

So, here’s the sewing plan:

  • Tonight, alter the pattern (unpetite, FBA, swayback adjustment) and get my fabric cut 
  • Wednesday night I want to interface and make the pockets and sleeve pleat thingies.
  • Thursday through Sunday. Sew in fits and spurts.

Ambitious, yes. And, I won’t beat myself up if it just doesn’t happen. I fly out in one week. Crazy, right?

On another note, does anyone know the answer to this? If I load my netbook up with rented iTunes movies, will I be able to play them in China? Netflix didn’t work in Canada, but I assume that is because streaming was needed. It seems to me that iTunes will be physcially on my computer and it shouldn’t matter. Anyone know?

Sigh. I should probably look into a Kindle soon. But, I’d rather just rent one for two weeks.

Argentina’s ‘Look’ Sewing Magazine (in Russian)

24 Aug

I just re-upped my subscription to the Russian ‘Pattern’ sewing magazine that a friend originally brought me from Ukraine. Each month they publish in Russian either selected patterns from the Italian La Mia Boutique or new to me Spanish language Look. This magazine has been hit or miss for me and this month is no different.

A few cute dresses

A few innaproproate tops

And a lot of kind of ugly


I have four more coming to me. If they don’t improve, they’ll be my last.

In Progress; Vogue 1086, Tracy Reese Dress

23 Aug

First, I really want to say a sincere thank you to everyone who has left me comments on my last three garments. I know I read dozens of blogs and don’t always have time to leave a comment. So, the fact that you took time out to do so is pretty awesome.

I leave for China a week from Wednesday and wanted to take one new dress with me. I settled pretty quickly on Vogue 1086. I have two pieces of wax print left from my Ghana trip a few years ago. I wanted something I could tour in, but also I could wear to a meeting or dinner.

I’ve made a touch of progress since this photo :) I now need to add the armhole binding and hem the dress and the cotton batiste lining. Which, I am pretty sure I can do in one good night after work.

If that happens, I have one more weekend of sewing. Which, I may shoot for a twill straight skirt or a khaki jacket. I know, crazy right?

Baltimore Fashion Week and Milani Winner

22 Aug

The winner of the Milani nail polish is: Kira! Congratulations! Thanks everyone for participating! I should tell you, Essie also has a sewing themed line this fall. You can see the colors here. I hear Milani now has the polish on their website. I was only every able to find it at CVS.

Saturday night I went to see one of the four days of show for Baltimore Fashion Week.

The show was fun (no flash photography allowed). But, I really loved these two guys who were in the front row. They altered their own outfits. You couldn’t tell them nothin’! When I asked for a photo they eagerly posed for me.


The Creamsicle dress is my summer go to dress and was perfect for Fashion Week. Since making the Creamsicle dress in April, I’ve hemmed it by  a good three inches. Why? I was out a few months ago with friends in DC. We were dancing and having a grand old time. Then, I had this weird realization. I looked around the room and realized I must have had the longest skirt on in the entire club.  Now, you can actually see my *knees*. Scandalous, no?

Oh! And if you love pop culture, fashion and are in the Baltimore area, might I suggest you follow my friend John John on Twitter? He’s the (new) fashion, pop and food critic at the Baltimore Sun newspaper ! They lost their fashion writer Tanika last year and have just picked John John up. I’ve been begging him to get on Twitter for ever and he finally did last month. He’s @popcouturejjw4 and will have his fashion blog up and running in September.

That’s him being all fashiony.

Pattern Review: Jalie 2796, Multi-Sport Skirt, Compression Shorts, Hot Pants

21 Aug IMGP3035_2

Another Jalie MultiSport Skort

I had grand dreams today of working on a dress. But, I tried to hang last night with the 20 somethings in my office and am suffering for it today. Quick post on what I did eek out before I head out to show for Baltimore Fashion Week.

I am not a sports person. I never played organized sports and I don’t follow any.  I can’t throw a baseball and I’m scared the basketball will hit me in my face during lay ups. I once got hit in the face by a soccer ball in 8th grade and haven’t looked back since.  The only games I go to are the Oriole’s when I get free box seats at work. And, event then, I don’t watch the game. I like very little physical exercise. 1. Swimming 2. Biking 3. Ballet I used to like yoga but it’s too hard on my wrist (tendonitis).  And by like, I mean ‘don’t hate’. Be it vanity or health, exercise is a necessity and you gotta wear something cute.

I really love this Jalie 2796. Here is my second version (with knickers).  Infinitely more flattering on me than shorts. The best feature is the side pocket that can hold your iPod or Blackberry (me).

This version is with the wider waistband. I have a seam down the center back because I make a swayback adjustment which also serves a full seat adjustment.

Funny aside. When I first made this up I was slightly annoyed that Jalie just had diagrams and no written instructions. Turns out THEY DO. I just needed to actually look at the entire pattern instead of the section with photos. Doh. But, that should tell you how simple this pattern is to construct. This time, I didn’t even look at the pictures.

I actually look almost athletic, huh?

Pattern Review: BWOF Blouse 1/2008 #108

19 Aug IMGP2897

You Gotta Have Friends

It’s not often I am completely thrown by Burda directions. But, I couldn’t understand the placket directions for the life of me. Luckily, I was able to call DVMCindy in California. For some crazy wonderful reason, she had written all of the notes and directions out for this pattern and walked me through construction on the phone. Awesome.

This makes FIVE patterns I’ve sewn from the January 2008 Burda Magazine. Five! That’s a record for me. This swiss dot with brown polka dots was a pleasure to work with. And, I just love the polka  dots! It’s so fun and youthful!

I used hand basting to underline the blouse with cotton batiste. Both the batiste and swiss dot were purchased in NYC. I did not do French seams as many other sewists did. Why not? Because I don’t know how to do them. I know they are easy, but I’m not inspired to learn just yet. Besides, with the underlining, you couldn’t see through and my serger served me quite well.

I didn’t alter the sleeve for the bicep. But, I did sew the sleeve band with a 1/2 inch vs 5/8 inch sleeve allowance. It’s a touch snug. But, I can live with it.

I did make a 1/2 inch FBA using the Princess Seam Method from Fast Fit. The buttons are light pink from my ages old Fabric Mart $5 bundle.

The skirt is part of my China capsule. It’s the April 2002 BWOF pattern I made a few weeks ago. This photo was taken after several hours of sitting at my desk. The linen wears very very well. Overall, the blouse is a terrific pattern. I love it. But, I think it’s slightly too big on me. I recently started sewing a 40 instead of a 38 with a FBA. But, I think I should stick with the 38, make a FBA, a swayback adjustment and increase the hip width. The nice thing about it being slightly loose is that it will be that much cooler in China. I’ll likely wear it untucked while traveling. But, tucked in like above for work. This blouse also provides enough ease that I can cross my arms without feeling like I’m in a straight jacket.


In my last post I said I was done with my East Coast to Far East China capsule, but I lied. I’m trying to sew one more dress (I leave in just less than two weeks). I thought I could use something a touch more professional for the meetings I have to go to.  It’s all cut out, lining too. Let’s see what I can get done this weekend!

Pattern Review: Russian La Mia Boutique Skirt 12-2009 #122

15 Aug IMGP2847

Too Hot to Model

I didn’t sew a stitch last weekend and didn’t feel like it until mid day Sunday this weekend. Then, the sewing bug hit me *hard*. I finished up a blouse, repaired a dress, shortened a skirt, redid the waistband on my linen pants and finished up this UFO from January. Why so long? Well, I didn’t have navy or black thread in the serger. What can I say? My serger is the biggest determining factor in what I’m sewing next.

It’s a navy (darker than pictured) poly double knit skirt and without central air in my house, it’s just too hot to model :) The pattern is from the 12/09 edition of ‘Patterns’. This is a Russian language magazine that carries the Italian La Mia Boutique. It was a gift from my Ukrainian colleague earlier this year. I’ve since found a subscription online that I renew quarterly.

Below, is the editorial shot and a bit of the line drawing. Again, a big shoutout to Lyl on the PR Boards for translating for me.

I love, love, love this skirt. It’s totally unique from what I usually see. In case I haven’t said so here, skirts generally bore me. I like skirts with really interesting details so I don’t sew them too often. There are about three I would like to eventually make.

I shortened the skirt by about six inches since it fell way below the knee and lenghthened the side gathers so they draped more. I like that it’s not formfitting (knits and m thighs are not a good look). I was also able to omit the elastic in the waistband. The knit was sturdy enough to stay up without it.

I’ll definitely make this up again when it’s cooled down in a wool. Ooooh, boots! I’m going to just love this skirt with boots.

This gives me hope that my next four Russian La Mia Boutiques are as good as this one was. Do you like how my dressform is posing? Like I walked in on her while she was getting dressed, lol.

Later this week (or better known as when I have a coordinating piece and wear it to work) I’ll show you my January 2008 #108 blouse. It came out all kinds of cute (tight in the biceps, but cute)! Technically, I think I’m done with my East Coast to Far East Capsule. I have three tops and three bottoms and one dress (dress and one skirt are pre-existing). If I can find some khaki linen this week, I might make another pants or a skirt. But, the pressure is off! Two more weeks to go!

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