Archive | January, 2012

Baltimore Fabric Crawl

31 Jan

This weekend there was a fabric crawl in Baltimore. I had a full day and wasn’t able to make it to all the stops. But, I did meet up for lunch a trip to A Fabric Place. There is currently a sale and I talked myself out of pastel yellow wool jersey.

It was great to finally meet Ming in person. Plus, I got to see Lisette who I hadn’t seen in two years despite living 30 minutes apart. And, of course Trena was there too. I also met SewRock who lives in the same neighborhood as my friend Liz.

Thank you for the comments on my Trina Turk dress. It proved very popular that night too! I thought I’d answer a few questions.

Lakaribane asked if I was wearing sheer pantyhose. Yes, I am. A few years ago I bought about two dozen pairs of this color marketed as the perfect skintone match for women of color. Most time people don’t even realize I’m wearing pantyhose. And, of course because I adore this shade, it was discontinued. I’m down to my last six pairs. So, I’m on the hunt for a new perfect match. I never really stopped wearing pantyhose. They’ve never bothered me and I never disliked my legs. I just thought you wore pantyhose to work / church / nice events. Well, apparently the Duchess of Cambridge is bringing them back, LOL.

GPetunia suggested “by increasing width across entire back from neck to hem before making another swayback adjustment.”

This is a good idea. I’m a 32 underbust and tend to make smaller sizes on top and an FBA. I could use some more ease in my upper back.

ReRe asked if there were any hiccups. Absolutely none. I do wish I had paid more attention in the hemming and made the back a hair longer. I really need to mark these better!

Several noted trepidation over the sleeves. I just want to reinforce that they are not tough at all. I had some puckering on the first pass with the sewing machine. But, serging (and reducing the seam allowances) made it go away. And, of course, press, press and press some more. I’ve always believed in fearless sewing.

I may have caused some confusion on the length of the dress. Kelly pointed out that I mentioned lengthening the skirt (which I did say before). I did hem by about 2.5 inches. I think the pattern calls for a 1.25 inch hem. So, it’s not what I would call ‘short’. I did lengthen the pattern at the bust for my dartless FBA. But, that didn’t impact the length.

Shirley told us about a navy blue and lime dress similar to the Trina Turk copy. I don’t want to tell you how much time I spent online Monday looking for those colors in double knit or wool jersey. I did find torquoise which I may indulge in. But, am still looking for lime green…. you know, if you see any, let me know!

That’s all for now! Thanks again and happy sewing :)

 

 

Butterick 5522: Trina Turk Inspired Dress

29 Jan 4d1c51b0

I like that it was my frequent companion’s birthday dinner and I made a dress for ME! Yes, that’s right. Part of my gift to him is to look awesome. I think that is not only fair and equitable, but simply the law of man.

Butterick 5522 (above) is inspired by designer Trina Turk. I only know this because Cindy did an ah-Mazing job knocking it off before the pattern even came out.

I know there is the occasional chatter on not posting reviews on PatternReview.com any more because of the lack of comments. I’ve been remiss in not posting reviews lately too.  I still find the reviews incredibly helpful. Well, good reviews are incredibly helpful.  Reviewers generally noted the lack of shape in the dress. But,this is not something I found. As I noted in my earlier post, I made a dartless FBA. I suspect I either could have made a bigger adjustment (as told by some folds pointing to my bust) or actually put in darts. Also, I could benefit from teeny shoulder pads in this dress.

I didn’t find the dress tentlike at all. Perhaps because I’m sewing a size I wore a few years and pounds ago (!). But, more likely because I measured out the pattern  :) The color of this double knit is a blood red. This piece is another gem from the Carol Collection. The color is brighter in these photos because my beloved SLR is in the shop. So, I’m working with a point a shoot for the next few weeks.

I made a 3/4 inch swayback adjustment and omitted the zipper. I could easily have done 1.5 inches and had a nicer fit in the back. The poly doubleknit is super stable and I do a bit of wiggle to get the dress on.

I hemmed by two inches from the length. Interfaced the hems and edges and used a twin needle to top stitch the hem. I really kind of wanted something shorter. In retrospect, it’s not gonna really be work appropriate at this length.  But, I wasn’t thinking about work when I sewed it!

The sleeves are somewhat bell shaped and pieced together.  I didn’t find them to be crazy large. Maybe in a drapier fabric they would seem more elaborate. I think I would have like a larger bell. But, again, I’m a dramatic kind of girl.

Overall I am very happy with this dress. It works super well on my figure and gives a lot of fashion impact with minimal effort. What’s even better is I’ve seen some women in the RTW version of this. Heh.

Finally, here is a photo with the birthday boy. Don’t worry, we didn’t have dinner in a basement. This is the afterparty with his friends.

And, after my pontificating, I dare not neglect  my review on PR.

Baltimore / Chicago / Fashion TV

26 Jan

There’s a fabric crawl this Saturday in Baltimore. There’s a thread on PatternReview.com if you are interested. They’ll be visiting Guss Woolens, DuBois Textiles and A Fabric Place. Lunch may be at Pepe’s, one of my favorite pizza places here. I can’t be there the whole time – probably just A Fabric Place or lunch.

Fashion Fund

I finally bit the bullet and cancelled my satellite TV last month. Not that I don’t love TV. But,  I am currently living sans roommate with no immediate plans to change that.  No roommate means super limited disposable income. Satellite is $75 a month and I spend far more time on the internet. Any rate, I’ve been embracing my Hulu and Netflix through my Roku device. One new show I saw is Fashion Fund. It covers the CFDA Fashion Fund process. Serious fashion porn with people actually designing clothes and telling their story. It’s terrific.

If you never saw the HBO / PBS special on the Triangle Fire, it’s now also on Hulu.

http://www.hulu.com/embed/7I1zGXTSLW0kV3Er4ixM-Q?shared_ad_id=82267

Are you in the Chicago area with a vintage sewing machine from the 50s? Mary Beth of Yarn U is giving a demo on vintage sewing machines next month and is looking for machines to borrow. If you are on the north side of Chicago or in the near north suburbs (Wilmette, Evanston, Skokie) and want to spread the vintage love, let me know and I can put you two in touch. If she was closer I’d loan her my Kennie or my Featherweight. Hah! Did I tell you my friend Liz named her Kenmore 1030 Kennita?

My Trina Turk dress is done and it is awesome! Here’s a little preview I posted on Twitter last night.  I’m waiting until I get gussied up for dinner on Saturday night for photos. In the meantime, I’ve pulled out a red bamboo knit and am starting on a Butterick top!

Starting Butterick 5522: Trina Turk Copy Cat Dress

25 Jan

I wanted to make a dress to wear out to dinner on Saturday night.  I settled on the Trina Turk designer copycat dress, Butterick 5522. My sewing time is narrow these days so I thought I would show how I got (will get) this dress done.

I admit the pattern is marked ‘easy’, and it truly is.

Evening 1: Pattern Alterations

I read on PatternReview.com that the dress is tentlike. So be it. Sacky dresses work on my figure. But, I still wanted to make an FBA. So, on the first night I made a dartless FBA increasing the width by 1 inch (I’m sewing a 14) and the length by two inches.

Evening 2: Cut out fabric and piece sleeves

Easy peasy. I’m using a red poly double knit coupled with a camel wool jersey for the contrast. The even numbers on the pattern are the sleeves and the odd numbers are the contrast. To do the piecing, I just pinned them all together prior to sewing. Hand basting would have been better, but I am lazy. 

Evening 3: Sew sleeves, interface edges and hems

Argh. This is my one slow down. I wanted to serge the entire dress. But, when I sat down to sew, I was reminded that the bulb on my Euro Pro serger is blown. It’s the first time it’s needed replacing in about ten years. The machine has to be disassembled to replace the bulb and the bulb I had on hand a few weeks ago when I sat down to do this was too big. I never put the machine back together.

So, I sewed on my sewing machine. I started with a stretch stitch (slight zig zag) but it was SO SLOW. I just threw caution to the wind and sewed with a long straight stitch. The sleeves aren’t going to receive much stress so I’m not worried about the stitches popping.

No photo of this, but I used bias knit interfacing along the hem, neck edge, sleeve edges and shoulder seams. The fabric is fairly stable, but doing this for knits has become habit for me.

I could have just about finished this dress last night. But, I’m hoping to replace the 15w serger bulb today. That will allow me to finish all the raw edges (above). Hopefully, the next post will be the finished dress!

2011 Year in Review: I Sewed A Coat

17 Jan

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Well, this was my least productive sewing year as long as I’ve been blogging. And you know what? I’m okay with that. I said last year I was going to sew less throw away pieces and more staples.

First, let’s look at my planned out garments.

Wool Trench Coat: Yeah Girls!!! I sewed a motherloving coat! I pulled this baby out for the first time last week and wanted to just put it on the floor and make a bed. I love every single thing about this coat. Everything. It makes me want to sew a shorter version. Mmmm. LOVE.

Burberry Trench: Done. It didn’t come out the way I pictured, but it’s gotten and obscene amount of wear already. I didn’t finish it in January like I planned. But, it was ready for fall.

Birthday Dress: Ummm. No. I did end up going to Florida and made my mom an awesome blouse. So proud of it. I never sew for other people and she looked amazing and was so so happy I sewed for her.

Rain Gear / Netherlands: Yep. This, I did. I went to the Netherlands and made myself rain pants. Sounds like not that big a deal? I learned all kinds of new things and have actually gotten to wear said rain paints in my every day life.

Formalwear: Didn’t happen. Of the three black tie events I had in 2011. I was out of the country for one. Went in vintage costume for the second. And bought a dress for the third. I’m okay with this.

Seersucker Social: Yes. Done. But, not great. My first skirt was too friggin short. But, possibly the best my legs have looked. Ever. And, I gave away the vest because it was too big in the bust.

Overall, I met my goals. The highlight of my year was my trip to the Netherlands and meeting the Dutch / Belgian based bloggers.

I wish I could do that every year. I always say to my mom I wish I was blogging when we went to Australia five years ago. I’d have  a whole country of people I’d try to meet up with!

So, that’s my sewing 2011. Sorry it’s late!

Silver and Grey Rebecca Sewy

16 Jan IMGP1794

As hoped, (for once) I did in fact finish this bra before the Ravens win over the Houston Texans on Sunday. It’s so pretty in its non-beigeness that I kind of want to weep from happiness. I’ve been dogged about making these bras since I was financially invested from my Amsterdam trip. That, and my bras are expensive and boring. Soooo boring. Beige and industrial. Blech.

I don’t make matching bottoms yet.  I have an entire Pinterest board devoted to underpinnings.  If I am stingy with lace placement, I can get two sets of bras out of the lace I have from Amsterdam. I mix the lace with Summerset’s kits. It’s one way of making sure that I’m consistently working with similar materials. I’d rather use  the extra lace in a year or so and make a second set of bras. And, I’m not proficient with my bottoms yet. So, I’d rather wait until I have that skillset down.

I thought I would get a slew of sewing done this weekend.  I have three UFOs and desperately need some slips. My current frequent companion is on a ski trip in Colorado this weekend and I kept myself socially uncommitted. But, instead of just sewing,  I read. I ran errands. I got my dry cleaning done. I washed my car. I jogged in 30 degree temps. Twice! I stocked up on wine. I watched Merchant Ivory type films with lots of crying, tragic heroines and moody music (and the last two weeks of Downton Abbey, Project Runway All Stars and Brad, Brad World). I made two kinds of  frozen deserts (salted caramel ice cream and olive oil gelato). I took down my Christmas tree. I made two batches of Greek yogurt (yogurt maker for Christmas). I went to the Indian grocery store.  I cleaned my house. I’m talking the kind of cleaning that I freely admit my house hasn’t seen since we met. Hands and knees scrubbing the kitchen floor cleaning.

And, I sewed two $60 bras for a quarter of the price.

It was delightful. Seriously. Never taking my free time for granted again.

 

Learning From Your Mistakes

15 Jan IMGP1783

Folks. If you do not learn from your mistakes, you are doomed to repeat them. There was going to be much wailing and gnashing of teeth if my sixth attempt at sewing the Rebecca bra from Sewy didn’t work out for me.

I am thrilled to report that wearing sack cloth and sitting in ashes was not needed!  This bra fits. Did you hear that? Angels cried with me when I finished this bad boy up.

This lace is from my once in a lifetime trip to Kantje Boord in Amsterdam last year. Why oh why did I not purchase a lifetime supply of lace and findings!? Oh. Yes. The crappy exchange rate. I forgot.

I must tell you. The road to this bra was not paved in milk and honey.

I received a new copy of the  Rebecca pattern from Sewy a few short weeks after my posted plea for help. They do ship to the US and they’ve fixed the bug on thier website that wouldn’t let me complete the order. Woo hoo!

Anxious to sew a litlle somethin’ somethin’, I traced and cut out a 70F. I used a bra kit from Summerset and lace from Etsy.

It’s hard to try on a bra mid-sew (sans straps and closures). But, am I ever glad I did! The bra was again too small! Why or why! I hadn’t done any alterations.  The 70F should have fit. Well, at least fit better. Except, well, I traced the wrong size. I know this, because I went back and read my original blog post from Jun 2011:

As I suspected in my last bra post, I did in fact trace and sew the wrong size bra. I made a 70F when I should have started with a 70G.

Grrrr. Do you see that? That means I’d sewn the wrong bra size twice now. Twice! Why? Because I didn’t read the notes I wrote here on my very own blog.

That made  1 muslin, 1 slightly large bra, 1 huge bra, a teeny bra, and now this small bra. That’s FOUR bras I’d sewn and none are wearable (by me). I was *so close* the first time I sewed a bra. But, happily, I got the magic back!

The good news is, these are now a breeze to sew. I *love* how they look. I’ve got all the sewing tricks worked out. For me, that means shortened band, downward hike, some curvature out of the bust apex, a wing and a prayer.

So not to destroy the good bra making vibes, I plan to sew this silver / grey version today before the Ravens playoff game.