Butterick 5522: Navy and Lime Tina Turk

When I posted about my original red and camel version of Butterick 5522 back in January, Shirley commented that she had a similar dress in navy blue and lime green in the 70s.

I LOVED the color combo idea and quickly bought two navy rayon double knits from FabricMart. Unfortunately, I couldn’t seem to get a hold of lime green. Everyone was sold out! Luckily, Patti F. came to the rescue and tracked some down, special ordered it and I was able to get two yards for myself.

The weather here has been nutty. Cold-to-warm-to-cold- to allegedly mid 80s by the weekend again. This may be the last day that I can squeeze this in before it warms up. Considering it’s my only fabric purchase so far this year, I really wanted to make sure it was sewn up as soon as possible. The biggest difference between my two versions is the material. My original is a super stable double knit poly. This is a rayon. The rayon is much looser in weave and the fit is more flowey.  I think, with all the curves, I’d prefer something a bit more stable — especially if you’re new to sewing curves.

Since it’s a hair longer than the first, I feel comfortable wearing it to work. I prefer the look of the shorter version on me, but wasn’t comfortable wearing it to work (not that I didn’t!).

This length and color are much more work appropriate.  I wore it Monday to a press conference at Fort McHenry*cough* Now is my time to remind you that Baltimore is the birthplace of the Star Spangled Banner, the National Anthem of the US.  And, according to this morning’s announcement, home of the two best known symbols of America (anthem / flag) *cough*

I’m glad I wore it today too because we were outdoor and it was *cold*! Try standing around for an hour. Brrrrr. Our staff photog was kind enough to take these outdoor photos of me. I’m wearing my tweed ride cape from October! Never thought I would get this much wear out of it. But, it’s a great piece and one of those things everyone loves when you put it on.

My serger was operational this time around too, so I used it for all construction steps. The dress just took a couple of hours to make.  All the alterations had been made and I knew the steps. Hmmm, I also see my shoulder in this are way long. I’m going to change the pattern a bit by taking away some of the width of the neckline and shortening the shoulder. I have narrow shoulders. I just tend to ignore them :-)

If you’re wondering about the sexy hand brace above. It’s my tendonitis which I usually manage pretty well. But, my next project is out of denim and it did a NUMBER on my hand in the cutting. Between that and yard work this weekend, I haven’t taken the brace off since Saturday and was popping ibuprofen like candy. Pooh.

Dude, I Got a Dog

Hey there!

Meet Linus van Pelt

Yep. I got a dog. For reals. I was totally freaked out about it too. In the way that I panic when I think about having children. On our first night together, I got him home, walked him, fed him and then just stared at him. I just had no idea what was next, LOL. Is that what happens when you bring home a newborn?

Happily, things have been working out. Linus is three years old and already housebroken. He’s a 10 lbs Chihuahua (omg. I’m totally going to have to learn how to spell Chihuahua without relying on spell check). He was found abandoned in South Carolina, transported to a rescue here in Baltimore. He spent several months in foster care before I came along. The foster mom *cried* when she dropped him off to me.

He already knew some basic commands, he’s not a barker (well, he does bark in his sleep), not a whiner, fully housebroken and sweet, sweet, sweet.  The foster mom said (and was right) that he’s perfect for a first-time pet owner. I’ve NEVER owned a dog. I’ve thought about it off and on over the years, most recently when I dog sat Frida for a friend. You guys gave me some great advice and encouragement. So, this time I just decided I was going to do it!

I named him Linus after the Charlie Brown character (Lucy is my favorite character).

Since he’s a boy, I do not plan to fully emasculate him in frilly outfits. My friends got him this raincoat and he’s so stinking cute I can’t contain myself. He gets cold pretty easily, so sweaters are totally justified.

So, that’s my big news! I also want to say thanks to the readers who have checked in on me. I am sorry to report that outside of Linus, things are still pretty crappy over here. I haven’t been sewing (obvi) because I just don’t feel like it.  I commemorated  Easter and my birthday with a boyfriend break up. Let me tell you. Breakups are crap. But, a breakup over a birthday which  is pushing you in to the twilight years of your 30s *sucks*. Like sucks super crazy Hoover-level hard. But, it’s all good. Or, it will be in its own time. I’ve been to this dance before and these things have a way of working themselves out. Plus, each new boyfriend the last four years has been an upgrade on the previous years’ model. Who knows what’s next?  It might just mean that  Idris Elba and I have a real chance at happiness ;-).

Lacy Nightgown: Burda 11/2001 #131

Burda World of Fashion 11-2001-131

I apologize now for not being able to show this to you on either my persons or correctly on my dressform. Because the bust cups are lace, they were not exactly internet appropriate. At least not the kind of internet that is free. Sadly, I wasn’t able to get it on my dress form either because of the small bodice and lack of collapsible shoulders on the form.

Which is the perfect segway into the nightgown (or slip. Take your pick.) I’ve wanted a nice night gown for a while. Well, I’ve wanted *anything* nice to sleep in for a few years now. I’ve made pajama pants in flannel and a full outfit back in 2007 but nothing ‘nice’.

This is made up in a silk/cotton blend from India that was a gift from Bhoomhika. I like to sleep under a blanket no matter the temperature. So, I wanted something cool and breathable for summer. The fabric has a wonderful hand a gorgeous sheen. It does ravel like you would not believe so serging was a must.

The lace is from Etsy and is a mirror image.

I cut the size 38 grading to the 44 through the thighs. For the bust, I made a 1 inch FBA. Now that I’ve tried it on, I could have (and have since) added at another 1/2 inch.

I didn’t really follow the Burda directions. For this version they do not  cut the dress on the bias. But, knowing you’ll be sewing from silk, they provide the full pattern piece (since silk is not as wide and would be hard to cut on the fold).

For the the side lace that was not scalloped, I used clear elastic and turned it down. I also used a little clear elastic in the cups to have them snug up (you do this when sewing bras).

For the hem, I attached the lace on top of the silk/cotton. This is called a ‘reinforced’ method taken from my Sewing Lingerie from the Singer Sewing Reference Library. I would not use this method again for a hem that is not perfectly straight. The lace doesn’t lay smoothly. I didn’t think about this when I decided to use this method. And, it may be better suited to a double scalloped lace.

This color  looks really good on me despite my cups running over. I’m a tad sorry you can’t see me in it! I may send this to my mom. I’m narrower through the rib cage than her though so it might be tough for her to wear.

I’m debating another version in  a silky mint green.

If you’d like a slip or nightgown and don’t have a 10+ year old Burda, have I got great news for you! Pattern, Scissors, Cloth has a gorgeous slip called the Ruby Slip for *Free*. I should have just made this myself!

Jalie 2796: Multi Sport Skirts w. Compression Shorts

Circa 2012

I went for a run the other day in my red and grey Jalie multi sport skirt with attached knickers (think cheerleading bottoms) and am 90 percent sure the bottom of my butt cheeks were playing peekabo with the hem of my skirt.  I was plodding along (I am ridiculously slow) and thinking my butt felt kind of cold then went in to a panic because I realized my butt wasn’t covered. Luckily, it was foggy and 6:00 a.m. so no one saw me ass out on the track. But, I came home and recognized I was going to need to make up new skirts with the compression shorts instead of knickers. I think the knickers might be better for me and biking or for those of us you who are less endowned in the rear.

This time I made three pairs with different fabric combinations. Here’s my advice when it comes to sewing these.

Plan on making multiple pairs with the same material. Each fabric produced a different fit because of changes in knit and slight changes in design.

Second, I lowered the waistband at center front. It rode way high on me as you will see below.

Third, I think the shorts are just too long for me. I’ve seen some running skirts where the shorts are visible. It’s not a look I wanted. Not having run in each pair, the length may be there for ease purposes. But, I think that you’re better off with very snug shorts that do not creep rather than longer shorts. Also, I don’t run long distances so chaffing isn’t an issue for me. Longer shorts may be better of that’s a concern.

I’m hoping these three pairs cover me through my (alleged) three runs and two bicycle commutes a week. I cut the US women’s size 8 / European 38 / Jalie ‘U’ initially. I should probably make the 10 / 40/ W with the size 6 / 36/  S waist if I stuck with this material. Any stretchier fabric and and I’d be fine having cut the size 8 / European 38 / Jalie ‘U’ .

 I’m also happy to report the compression shorts take care of my chub rub and have a slimming effect to boot.

There is a HUGE value in making a running skirt. I’ve seen them priced between $35 and $100 each. I like skirts because they are much more flattering on me and I always get stopped and asked where they can be purchased. Also, I feel less self conscious in a short skirt that short shorts.

For the main skirt of all of them, I used this cotton backed, navy blue athletic mesh with crosswise stretch I bought during PR Weekend Montreal two years ago. I think it was about $5 a yard.

Fist pair are my ‘M Go Blue’ shorts in navy and maize. I’m not a University Michigan fan and didn’t go there. But, I dated a massive Michcigan fan so I’ve seen more of their football games than I have of my alma matter, the Maryland Terrapins. The shorts on this pair are a nice thick, black wicking supplex from New York.

This was my first pair and I quickly found that the waist was too high at center front. And, ummm, way too tight across center butt.

The snug rear actually doesn’t bother me so much. But, I do think the skirt may ride up overall while jogging.

My second ‘Hooah’ pair in navy and grey are a bit of a mess.

I thought the first pair was too snug across my thighs and I decided to add some width throughout. Expect, I didn’t make the waistband bigger. So, there are some unplanned tucks in the waist band. Ultimately, shrug. They are going to be sweated in.


And, they were still too big in the waist — a problem I have with my original red pair (shown at the top)

The compression shorts on these are from my AMAZING wicking Suziplex material from Montreal. It’s smooth on one side and snuggly on the other. But, way too stretchy to actually compress in the size I cut. I need to take them in A LOT. And, I do not recommend making compression shorts in a light fabric. I look like I have on a diaper!

This final pair are the colors of my high school, so we’ll call them my ‘Shenandoah  Stars’ version. It uses the NYC black supplex for the compression shorts and I went with white for the pocket / side panel contrasts. This time I did a slash and spread in the skirt so I could maintain the nice snug waist line but get some more width at the saddlebags. Ahhhh, ease.

These were by far the best shorts! I found them in my sewing room, cut a few years ago but not sewn. They are the US women’s size 6 vs the siz 8 / 10 I’d been cutting. The supplex is strong and really compresses well. And, I hacked two inches off the bottom.

So, nothing too exciting, but absolutely useful. If you’re wondering when I became a runner, I haven’t. I’m on a the loooong  personal version of Coach to 5k  (It’s taken me three months to start Week 5 today!) I’ve also been an absentee blogger due to a fairly shittastic few weeks. There are people who clean when they are stressed. I am not one of them. But, I will exercise. Coupled by a lack of appetite and a general desire to kick someone’s — anyone’s– ass, these bouts are usually good for five pounds.

This was one of those times I’m happy I have a stash! I have two cuts of the Suziplex in eggplant and black and am thinking of turning them in to capris. My capris are both over five years old and size ‘small’ when I am currently wading in medium / large territory.