Archive | 10:08

Vogue 8825: Royal Blue and Gold Silk Jersey

6 Nov file_zps36ad1d91

After my Purple Friday dress, it feels great to return to my bold and graphic print roots!

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But, let me tell you. This was the slowest silk sewing, evah. Let me splain you.

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I first saw this silk jersey material in store at Mood Fabrics back in August. I hemmed and hawed and finally placed a phone order in October (now sold out).  I loved the blue and gold because they are my sorority colors and I knew I could get some good wear out of it during graduate chapter and regional meetings. Since the silk was just 45″ wide, I bought five yards at $25 a yard. I seriously debated the investment (hence the two month wait to purchase). But, both Trena and Liz pointed out a similar RTW dress would easily be twice as much.

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This is my second time sewing with silk jersey. This Prarie NY silk jersey presented some new challenges for me. The fabric was ‘tough’ in that even when pinning, I had trouble penetrating the material. I knew silk was strong (silk thread for buttonholes, silk organza for stablising, etc.). But, my serger  just wanted to eat this material. I tried both stretch and ball point needles and my overlocker was having none of it. My sewing machine was punching holes through the jersey I wanted to cry. I think I may have a little.

I posted on Facebook and had some superhelpful responses. I went out and bought microtex and titanium needles upon the suggestions of the Interwebs. Both sewed through the silk like a knife through butter. It’s my first time experiencing this challange. But, again, only my second time with silk jersey.

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I did a little handtacking of the collar to keep it in place. In a similar dress to this from Burda, there is interfacing throughout the facing and collar. I think this is a better way to stabilise the front.Photobucket

I took two inches off the bottom and decided not to ‘finish’ the hem. I made my usual alterations of a slight FBA and a big swayback adjustment. I sewed a 12 and the fit seems to be good. I am very self conscious about my lower thighs (saddlebags), so a slip is needed for me when I wear this dress.  Photobucket

The puzzle print is pretty bold. And, for a hot second I thought about trying to match the motif. But, decided not to bother.

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There is some mirroring on the upper back. Trust me, I can live with it.

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The skirt could probably be cut on the fold, but for my swayback adjustment purposes, I like a center back seam.

If you see my cuffs, they are folded under toward the inside. On PatternReview.com I read some people took length out of the sleeves.

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I thought the length of the sleeve was fine, but the cuff wide for my taste. So, I’m folding it back.

Have I mentioned my mom *hates* sashes on me? She calls them ‘that fabric in front of you hanging from your waist’. HAHAHA! She cracks me up.

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Overall, I’m thrilled. This dress is *so* me.  It’s body conscious without being tarty, the bold print, the shape of the skirt, the full sleeves. The silk. Man, the silk. I want to have a work week of silk jersey dresses. It’s so luxe.  I love that I’m wearing a dress that would start at retail around $300.  Absolutely worth the investment.

The material for this dress was purchased in part using an allowance from Mood Fabrics for the Mood Sewing Network.