Review: Hot Patterns 2004: Mr. H.P. Hemmingway Windcheater

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Almost three months past his birthday, Jordan’s got a new jacket! I bought this HP pattern back in 2013 with the thought I would sew it up for a Hanukkah gift. Then, I promised it as a February birthday gift. Luckily, Jordan is patient.

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I love how the HP Windcheater is modeled after high end and very expensive jackets. I submit to you the Filson Fisherman Parka

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At $500 that was never going to be purchased by me.

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I think my version looks pretty similar to theirs in blue!

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So, fabric is a cotton from Mood that I purchased in store in 2013. It’s navy blue cotton with a waterproof layer sandwiched in between. I don’t think it’s super breathable, but, it has great hand. It generally sewed fine with a regular needle. But, when I got to the buttonholes on the front I tried three different needles before the stitching ‘took’. I used a leather needle as it is A designed to go through non-wovens and performed like a champ.

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The lining is a cotton flannel from Joanns that he picked out himself. The sleeves have a silky lining to make it easier to take on and off.

Alterations:

  • Add an inch in length to the jacket
  • Add a inch to the sleeves (he likes them long)
  • Broad back adjustment for movement ease while on his Vespa
  • Added a pleat to the lining for movement ease
  • Scoop out the center front neck at the hood to accommodate for his larger neck.

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Looking at the completed garment I think the shoulders are a little long/ wide for him and I’ll shorten them a bit next time. And, the neck is still tight for him and I’ll need to scoop that out some more.

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For the zipper, I used a two way zip so when he’s on his Vespa or bike, he can unzip from the bottom. I bought and had it cut at Stadham Sewing.

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I also skipped snaps and went with buttons.  He chose these buttons from my stash.

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I didn’t do the drawstring waist. He said he would never use it.

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I added a zipper to the chest pocket. Just big enough to hold his iPhone.

So, I don’t want to gush, but I think he looks so stinking good in this jacket! And, not because of my sewing. I think it just fits him really well, and I love him in navy (and dark green and browns).

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It took me a long time to make this pattern because I’m lazy and it’s the first ‘real’ thing I’ve sewn since last July! I can’t believe how long it’s been since I’ve *really* sewn.  It felt incredibly good to sit down at a sewing machine and watch a project come together.

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I can see using this pattern over and over and over. And, I’d really like to make a two-tone version for myself like these Universal Works jackets that retails for $345 (it’s unlined).

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The next time I make this, I will use pre-installed drawstring and elastic. You’ll note that I have in the grommets. But, no drawstring yet.

And, I will add interior pockets like so

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and so

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Too bad it’s now too warm for him to wear the jacket…

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41 thoughts on “Review: Hot Patterns 2004: Mr. H.P. Hemmingway Windcheater

  1. Incredible! I love it. I’ve been thinking about sewing a coat for my husband for awhile now. I think he’d love this pattern.

  2. Great job! These pics might even change my hubbie’s mind about my sewing him something. It looks great.

  3. Did this outer fabric come with the waterproof layer or did you layer it yourself?

  4. Fantastic job! He looks so happy with his new jacket. And how nice for you to finally be able to sit down and get some good sewing time under your belt. Here’s to more!

  5. Awesome job!! And a waterproof/water resistant jacket is something is is useful for everyone. My husband has one that is permanently installed in the back seat of his car because…you..never…know. And depending on travel plans (Seattle? Scotland? Maine? Canada?), it’s something that can be rolled up in the suitcase and taken because you KNOW that in some places, it’s..just…going…to…rain. Oh yeah. That and a wool sweater. Than you’re covered. :)

  6. This looks great on Jordan! I think this classic pattern could be improvised in so many ways. It’s something you can make many times. No worries, I’m afraid it will be cool enough to wear it sooner than we would like!

  7. One can never have enough pockets.

    Great windbreaker.
    That’s almost what we wear in the Pacific Northwest. We want a light coat to keep out the wind with water repellant fabric to keep us dry.
    No need for heavy jackets (and wool sucks).
    This looks like a Fab pattern.

  8. Wow, that really is amazing work, it looks great–fit and construction. I hadn’t noticed the pattern, thanks so much for the review. I like that it has all the external details and doesn’t look dumbed down in any way. I do wish patterns would include internal pockets, too, when going to this much work you really want all the details.

    Have you worked with the drawstring elastic before? It’s decent for soft waistbands like pjs but you might not like it in this sort of project. The cord is funny, the way it works is it stretches to about double length once pulled so it’s a bit soft and flimsy compared to other cords. A couple years ago I happened on draw cords sold in three packs at American Apparel which was perfect for a project I’d just completed, exact color match. For my kids I often use lock laces running shoe bungee laces for jacket hard wear they come with a long lengths of elastic and color matched tips and slider.

  9. “I love him in navy (and dark green and browns).” Awww, you know you would love him in pink polka dots! But great job on that jacket. Lots of work there.

  10. Jordan looks so handsome in his new coat, Renee! He looks good in navy. I couldn’t see this on the cell phone pic, but he has such a cute smile. How many hours in total would you guesstimate it took you to sew up the jacket? Now that I’m looking at it, and the links you posted, I can see making a pair for my husband and me. Especially looking at the prices, good Lord!

  11. Wow that is one gorgeous garment. Really well sewn. He’s a lucky husband. :)

  12. Glad life for you has settled down and you’re back! What a beautiful job on Jordan’s jacket!

  13. Renee, you did a great job on your husband’s jacket! Incredible. It looks like a $500 plus jacket for sure. One of these days I hope to meet you at a meet up. I live in Houston, originally from Michigan but will travel to a sewing meetup. I’m not a blogger yet, but if you ever have a meetup let me know! Take care!!

  14. You finished!! And it looks amazing and disgustingly professional. I’ll bet he didn’t really mind waiting for you to finish, especially when it came out looking this good. :-)

  15. Really well done, Jordan looks great and so does the jacket! I’m also glad you’re finally sewing again.
    By the way, I’ve been listening to your podcasts during running, and time goes much faster when I listen to you and Trena. I especially liked the one about the Bernina, as I bought a vintage one (530 Record) myself in Switzerland and had to get it home on public transport. Wow, that thing is heavy! I’m so excited for you about your new old machine.

  16. That is just awesome! So happy that you got it done because it will be autumn before you know it! Now may I ask? Is all the fabric folded and in the sewing room yet? :)

  17. AWESOME job on this coat!!! So what if it took you three months, he will wear it for years to come. Some of my favorite projects are ones that took me forever to get just right.

  18. Loving this! Super great looking an sooo highly functional. I promised my hubby a winter coat, and will likely take forever getting it done… I’m not the best at prompt sewing for other people. I JUST finished a pair of cargo shorts for him today and ONLY a week late for his bday… I was pretty impressed with that timeline for me. Now I’ve been eyeing an anorak-ish coat pattern for spring for me, too… but all this really lovely weather this week is making it hard for me to get that together.

  19. Wow, what a jacket. And of course a cute husband. If I showed this jacket to my son he would want one immediately. As I’m not in the mood for it I won’t do that ;)

  20. This is an amazing jacket with incredible details and the fit is perfect. Great job and he looks so pleased with his jacket.

  21. He is beaming and is clearly proud to wear your wonderful jacket! What a great job with mens wear and with fitting/pattern alterations!

  22. This is awesome! A labour of love, that’s for sure. And what amazes me even more is that you’ve written “when I make this again”! lol

  23. Thanks for sharing this. My husband needs a new casual coat and this is absolutely perfect. You’ve done a great job.

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