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Sewy Rebecca: Valentine’s Day Edition

17 Mar IMGP6542

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So, I’m a month and one holiday too late. I thought I’d get this sewn in time for Valentine’s Day and at least inwardly celebrate the day. But, alas, I lost my mojo. I was lucky it came back in a spurt Friday night after meeting up with Norma of Orange Lingerie who is in town. After picking her brain about her custom lingerie sewing and asking questions about her upcoming book, I couldn’t wait to get home and sew some lingerie.

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This is my TNT Rebecca Sewy. I cannot get over how pretty my bras are now! I’m still experimenting with the all lace cup. I did ask her about ways I could go more sheer since I’m currently using lace, powernet and lycra in my lower and side cups. I’m going to be working on that sooner or later methinks.

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I’ve got my next bra already cut out. I’m going to play with some lace placement for interest. Hoepfully, a scalloped bridge. I would like to have five bras in rotation so I can retire my RTW ones that I got a few years ago. So, at least three more bras this year.

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I’m sure you all heard my scream when Google Reader announced they were closing. I’ve switched to Feedly for my blog reading. I like that I can add blogs with a double click in Safari and Chrome. It imported all my feeds and bookmarks from reader. And I don’t have to sort out what ‘Follow me on Bloglovin’ means.I like that you can chose the format your feeds show up in (this is ‘magazine’).  Finally, it syncs across the multitude of mobile devices I read blogs with.

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Kantje-Boord’s New Website and Possible Group Order

14 Mar

Guuuuyyyyyysssss!!! Thanks for the congrats on the job and the dude. And, getting my self-deprecating sense of humor.

Now, back to sewing. Which I am not doing. I have ZERO mojo right now. It’s a little alarming. But, I am crazy absorbed in my new role at work and getting used to wearing bossypants.

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But, I did see that Kantje-Boord has a *much* better new website, http://kantje-boord.net/ and are on Facebook . Because it’s no longer in frames, I can use Google Translate.

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Shipping, is crazy high for the US. But, I am wondering if there might be enough people in the Baltimore / DC area who are interested in going in on shipment. I feel like I’ve seen the Aussie bloggers do this. Hmm, I’ll even throw in peeps from the Ann Arbor, MI area as I’ll be going back two more times (in April and May). (EDITED TO ADD) Because I have my parents in the Tampa Bay area and will be out to see them or vice versa before the year is over, I can include those from Tampa too.  Sadly, I’m not going to PR Weekend, so I can’t hand off there. Maybe I’ll host host a lingerie party at my house to give everyone’s packets out. Ok, you don’t have to wear lingerie. You can come in jeans :-)

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Check out their packets. If we can get, say 10 people in the area to order — it might be worth it. Why 10? Because 45 pounds is the highest shipping at $150. I figure that’s $15 each at 10 people and worth it. More people than that is just gravy to me. But, I think $15 is all I have the stomach for considering how many packets I would want to order at $26  a packet.

Umm, if my maths are wrong, just let me know. I have no shame in my numbers game.

Assembly Line Sewing: Fehr Trade’s Lacy Thong

27 Feb IMGP6217

My underwear situation is pretty tragic. Once I figured out a year ago that I could sew my own panties, I refused to buy them any more (even at $5 a pair). Except, I also wasn’t sewing them either.

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It was Trena who mentioned she’d used the Under Armour thin wicking fabric from my local Guss Woolens’ to make drawers.  I don’t know why it didn’t occur to me! They told me in the shop it was used for making underwear at Under Armour.  Trena  kept going on and on about how great the fabric was for underwear (great recovery, breathable, non fading).

Last February, Kathi R. sent me a stack of pretty stretch laces from FIDM. Lots of gorgeous colors! So, when Melissa released her free Lacy Thong Pattern, I knew I had no excuse but to get to sewing.

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For my first sample, I used a black stretch lace from Fashions Unlimited. I think this was like 50 cents to 1 dollar a yard. Once the first version was sewn and worn with success, I got to cutting.

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And assembling

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And sewing. I found my 1/4 inch foot super helpful with the smallish seam allowances.

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In my mind I was making 10 pairs. But, started to lose steam, lol. Here are the six of the seven that I completed.

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My prior lace thong pattern draft is all lace and I don’t find that the greatest for every day wear. But, this version with the jersey is perfect. A little sexy but still practical.

What do I love about this pattern? It’s simple. You don’t need a serger. The style is super cute. I can’t thank Melissa enough for giving us access to it!

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What don’t I like? It’s kind of tedious to sew like this. I wouldn’t recommend batch sewing unless you are in dire straits (as I was). Otherwise, just sew them as you feel like it!

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I’ve updated the Lingerie Resources tab at the top of my blog. A few etsy shops and bra components were no longer active. And, I added another three or four etsy shops I found from searching.

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I have some one inch wide lace on order to make a similar batch of the Rosie Lady Shorts from Cloth Habit. Not my usual style of underwear, but I thought the pattern was super cute and would be great for working out.

I picked up several yards of gray and royal blue thin wicking from Under Armour at Guss Woolens today to try it out soon. Guss Woolens doesn’t have an online presence  but will mail samples out and take phone orders if you’re interested.

Long Lingerie Sewing Weekend: Pale Sea Breeze Rebecca Sewy Bra

19 Feb IMGP6191

It was February last year when I made my last bra. I guess sewing is a bit cyclical isn’t it?  What really happens to me is that Sigrid starts posting her incredible creations and I get a crazy itch to try again. My plan was to make like ten pairs of Melissa’s excellent Lacy Thong pattern. But, I got distracted halfway through and decided I wanted to sew a new bra. While the bust was about right in my two home sewn bras, I found the elastic in the cup flipping under when worn. It started to annoy me so much that I discarded the red bra and used the silver one on my dress form.

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I poured through Sigrid’s tutorials and posts on bra sewing. It finally occurred to me that maybe I needed to sew the channeling so that it flipped outward to be on *top* of the elastic instead of inward and away from the elastic. I dashed off an email to Sigrid with the subject ‘Dumb Question’. Once she responded, I sewed in the channeling correctly (outward) and had my almost perfect bra.

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This all lace version of the Rebecca Sewy has been cut out for a year now. I went with all lace instead of just the upper cup. The lace is from an Asian market vendor on etsy and the lycra kit is from Summerset also on Etsy.

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I mean, it’s the gorgeous lace bits that made me want to start sewing my own bras!

Guys, the elation I felt when I put this bra on and it *fit* in indescribible. The entire time I was sewing it, I thought it was looking too big in the cup. It’s also frought with many little errors.

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I plan to sew one or two more straight away. My three RTW bras are about three years old and need to be retired soon. If my next two come out correctly, I will *finally* sew my complete kit from Amsterdam. I’ve been saving this one for when my bras are almost perfect.

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After all this, I will never begrudge the cost of a RTW bra. Especially one with all lace. Think, there are about five pattern pieces. I have them cut from lace, powernet, and lycra. There is a lot of little small seams and details. It’s a lot of work, but so worth the effort!!

Geometric Sweater Knit Cardigan: Burda Magazine 11/2012

15 Feb IMGP5921

I’ll be honest with you. I don’t usually care much for sewn cardigans. And, when people were getting on board the waterfall cardigan train three years ago, I happily passed.  They don’t have the fitted look I seem to like in hand knit sweaters. But, I fell for the feel of this Burda waterfall cardigan (they call it a waistcoat) when it appeared in the 11/2012 edition (#137 available on the BurdaStyle website for download for $5.40).

They recommended using a lightweight mohair, but I wanted to use this thick and cozy geometric sweater knit from Mood fabrics. This is a non-knitting sewists dream material! Warm and spongy, with amazing recovery.

The pattern though, is a massive, fabric-eating PITA. You see, I purchased two yards of this sweater knit from Mood when it first went up on the site. Then, a few months later, it was 50 percent off of the original $18! I jumped at the chance and bought two more yards so I could make this cardi.

But, I didn’t heed the Burda directions and decided to cut my back on the fold — unlike the single layer layout I was directed to use (2 yards). Of course, this meant that I could only squeeze one  single ‘front’ from the leftovers (2 yards). So, I had to order another two yards of the knit so I could have all three peices.

For those who may be lost, that means it took me six yards and three orders to make one sweater because I’m an idiot. Pieces of it were laid out in my living room for so long, my Chihuahua Linus took to sleeping on it.

The pattern and sewing are fairly simple at 1.5 dots. I made zero alterations for fit and sewed a 40 to allow for my bust and my lack of adjustments for my wide lower thighs. I also didn’t match the motifs at the side or front.  To finish the edges, I just serged the edges.

Along the neckline and shoulder seams, I used cotton shirting selvedge  to stablize the seams and prevent stretching.

The fabric is thick, so lots of steams and my  clapper was used to open the seams as flat as possible. I loved my fabric choice. This sweater is WARM!! Office peeps loved it and I’ve worn it all weekend too.

Now, the only problem with using the thicker fabric, is that it’s not flattering at the middle. You can see here that the intergrated collar and scarf is already double once, then doubles again when folded.  If you’re at all self-conscious about thickness at your waist — this isn’t the the waterfall for you. I look about four months preggers from the side.

The tie belt does afford some waist definition, but I’ll be on the lookout for a wide, elastic stretch belt to use instead.

Overall, fabric hog but great pattern and super cozy in a thick knit.

The material for this sweater was purchased in part using an allowance from Mood Fabrics for the Mood Sewing Network

He Think He Fancy: Simplicity 2755 and Burda Mag Dog Cape

12 Feb IMGP6084

You know how to get attention? Put your dog in clothes.  I guess I was missing Sir Linus (my dad’s name for my Chihuahua) after almost a week apart. I also felt like sewing but wasn’t up to starting any thing big or new. So, over the weekend I made two winter pieces for the little stinker and he’s now pretty full of himself. Why? Because we went for a walk in some new gear and this is what I heard being *shouted* from cars

“I like your dog!”

“That dog be CUTE gurrrl!’

“Where you get that dog at?”

This has seemingly all gone to his head and he’s now prancing on our walks.

Be forewarned: I have put more thought into sewing these two pieces than I have in any other garment recently. It’s… troubling. photo file_zpsa1e92acb.jpg

First up is this V-neck sweater is from Simplicity 2755. It’s part of Simplicity’s ‘Go Green’ line and also has a little hoodie pattern included. Cuuuuuttttte. I’m gathering from this experience that Go Green is designed for beginners, occasional sewers and crafters. The pattern is not fitted, kind of oversized and designed for single layer cut out.

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While I like the V-neck feature (my own v-necks don’t look this good!) the pattern is not drafted for pee clearance. I think it’s a colossal PITA to take a sweater off the dog to put on a coat when it’s time for a winter walk. So, I think I’ll tweak this 2755 to be similar to the bottom draft of Simplicity 3939 that I’ve made for Linus before. 3939 also has a snugger fit that he can’t wiggle out of in his sleep.

For once, I actually measured Linus and he fell in the ‘small’ for his chest and weight but the length of a ‘medium’. So, I added one inch in length (I’ve noticed things I buy for him in his weight and chest tend not to be long enough). But… Liz says Linus looks like he’s wearing a kimono (print, color blocking). So, I may just sew the XS next time.

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Above is the original crazy-long non-pee clearance length. I try hard to keep little Linus looking as butch as possible. We both have our pride. But, the dress-length sweater in a swirly print wasn’t helping.

I tried to adjust by hacking three inches off the bottom and rolling up the sleeves.  But, shortening the pattern still didn’t give him clearance.  Comparing Simplicity 3939, I see that they are drafted with a different slope around the dog boy bits.  Only one review on PR noted the pee clearance issue. But, I read the review after I sewed this up. Doh.

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Here, shortened with a black instead of self fabric band.

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The pattern only takes 5/8 a yard and is cut single layer to conserve material. I used a warm wool sweater knit from Mood Fabrics leftover from a soon-to-be posted cardigan.

So, it’s a pattern with good features. But, for my needs will need some tweaking.


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Reecntly, I was asked to consider a new cape for Linus by a frequent male walker. He said he was walking Linus and realized that when he was wearing his gray winter coat and Linus had on his cape — they looked like they were dressed alike.   And other people on the walks had noticed too….I think it’s hard enough to get a grown man to walk a twee dog that isn’t even his. So, why add insult to injury. With this in mind, I revisited Burda Magazine’s Sherlock Holmes’ inspired dog cape. I like the first one I made for Linus, but wanted to try a few new things. This fabric is a remnant of a beloved project. My aptly title ‘Sherlock Holmes Dress’ from 2008 (man, I really needed an FBA).

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First, I piped the whole thing in a reflective piping. This stiff plasticy piping I bought in NYC a few years ago. I think I was planning a messenger bag for biking. The plastic is too stiff for the body of the cape. But, awesome in the collar. I think I’ll just stick with piping the collar in the future. It’s really hard to see the piping along the body.

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Second, I used two D-rings for the ‘belt’ (which is also waaay too long). Kind of fussy. I think I’ll just use strips of velcro in the future.

Third, I went back to the original length. I shortened the pattern the first time, but decided it was a little too short for him (again, he’s longer than a typical Chihuahua). I do think it’s a little big at the neckline still, so I’ll adjust for that next time.

Oh, I also cut the underlining a bit smaller. It seems to help with having the cape ‘curve’ toward Linus and not stick up when he… squats.

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I have a few more patterns I’d like to try out for him this year. But, I’m good for a little bit. I’m all dog sewed out.

I Finally Read “Over-Dressed”

10 Feb

Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap FashionAnd, I felt kind of depressed. And have spent the weekend obsessively cleaning out my closets, drawers and basement. I live alone in a three bedroom house and there is stuff in each of those rooms. I want to get down to the things I need. Not just the stuff I want. And, less stuff.

Instead of reviewing the book (there are many many good reviews out there) I’d like to share a slightly related anecdote. My Goodreads ‘review’ is posted at the end.

As people moved away from making their own clothes, general public knowledge of garment construction faded. Though the connection is not entirely direct, the loss of sewing skills happened in tandem with the public accepting simpler and simpler fashions, until today — where we have collectively accepted the two-panel knit creation that is aT-shirt as fashion. — Overdressed by Elizabeth Cline

I share this qoute because I once had a first date. We were meeting for coffee at a popular brunch spot in fashionable neighborhood in downtown Baltimore on a Sunday morning. He came wearing a tee-shirt, cargo shorts and flip flops. Full disclosure — I generally don’t like flip flops. They aren’t shoes. But, it was the T-shirt that stuck with me. We dated for a few months and I eventually brought up the fact that he wore a T-shirt on our first date. His reasoning was it had a (chest) pocket, therefore it was a shirt. Plus, it was a casual morning first date. I’ll abstain from drawing correlations between the effort he put into dressing for our date and the effort he put in to the relationship. But, I submit to you that a T-shirt is not a first date  ’outfit’!

“That men walk around in T-shirts and elastic waistband pants has very definitely impacted the notion of what fashion is and contributed to the race to the bottom.”  – Anthony Lilore, a 30 year vet of the fashion industry.

Hear, Hear!!

Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion

Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion by Elizabeth L. Cline

My rating: 4 of 5 stars

I don’t even know where to begin. I remember looking at two friend’s closets a few years ago and being shocked speechless over the insane number of clothes they had. Especially considering I saw them in the same clothes over and over and the vast majority spalid on the floor had never been worn. Throw on top that I find most of the clothes I see on people I know wearing to look patently inexpensive(thin, faded, pilled and pulled). This book explained to me how this came to be and how consumer culture changed when it comes to shopping.

I made a melton wool grey trench coat a few years ago. It’s double breasted, down to my ankles and lined with flannel back satin. It’s the warmest, best fitting garment I’ve ever made. It cost me $150. My good friend was shocked I would pay that much to make something when I could have bought a coat for less money and zero time. This coat, easily would have cost over $500 on *sale*. But, a poly / wool / acrylic coat for $90 made much more sense to her.

We live in a culture where we’ve forgotten that good quality items cost a lot of money. Period.

When I grew up, we shopped seasonally and for special occasions. In my 1930s home, the closets are the size of an outhouse. This book lays out how the expectations on the cost for clothes has changed and how the stores have catered to this. Now, people shop for entertainment and the clothes are inexpensive enough that we don’t think twice about buying it. Add on top of this the loss of shame over having ‘cheap’ clothes and we have a society that has more clothes than ever. This has changed the way our homes are built, the way we shop and the quality we expect.

This book is eye opening and I will never shop the same way again. Ever. I want my clothes to have value and meaning. I don’t want to contribute to this consumer culture where we spend more on a meal out than we will on a blouse! A blouse should last for years!

Sigh. I realize this isn’t a review, LOL. Read this book. It will change your thinking and they way you live. I’m only not giving it four out of five stars because the author talks about how we need to learn to identify good quality clothing. But, never really goes in to what the average consumer should look out for.

View all my reviews

Tweaked Performance Boxer Briefs: Jalie 2327

6 Feb IMGP5873

I am a last minute sewer. I whipped up two pairs of black wicking boxer shorts for a birthday gift before work last Thursday morning.

I first made these boxer briefs in royal blue as a holiday gift back in December. I made a few mock pairs up for a volunteer pattern testing friend to ‘test’ run for me. After giving the briefs as a gift and hearing back from my pattern testing friend, I decided to make another tweak to the pattern.

The first tweak on my original pair (above) was adding a gusset in the crotch area (based on RTW and comments). This allows the boxers to ‘snug’ up in between the legs so to speak.

This time, I added more of a curve to the fly — about 1/4 inch for a total of half of inch. The red line is the original pattern line. This should allow them to be more fitted. I tried to think of it like a bra cup. The previous version didn’t have enough depth.

I believe the pattern is discontinued. I saw ‘performance boxers’ at Sam’s Club last week. They were two for $21 I think. This fabric is Under Armour wicking from Guss Woolens in Baltimore and $5 a yard. So, I made two pairs for $5 really. Unfortuntely, I bought the last of this waistbanding from an Etsy seller. But, I’m on the constant hunt for more.

Guss Woolens has this thin wicking in black and several shades of blue. I plan to use some for myself for workout tops and underwear.

Baby Blue Burda Style Pullover: 11/2012 #124

30 Jan file_zpsd5377bc3

People. I have a serious problem. I seem to just to REFUSE to acknowledge that I have some little narrow shoulders and need (nay, MUST) start adjusting for them. It’s like how I didn’t do an FBA for ten years.

Allow me to start at the beginning.

This pullover from the November 2012 Burda features a low and wide neckline with cuff sleeves and cuffed waistband. I was drawn to the upstyle casual look of it.

I really liked how the back and front were two different lengths — providing visual interest to something that could otherwise be a bit ordinary.

For this project, I made my usual full bust adjustment and graded from a 38 bust to a 42 at the hips. I really wanted to make sure the pullover wouldn’t ‘cup’ under my tuccas from being too tight.

For this project, I used the last of my $18 a yard Mood Fabrics sweater knits from my October in-store purchase of three. The other similar sweater knit projects became my marine wool dress and an autumnal sweater. I *love* pastel blue. I seriously have over 20 pastel / baby blue nail polishes. I should be ashamed. But, I am not.

Which brings us back to my shoulders. On the model below, you can see that the shoulder seam hangs over her shoulder. I guess that’s fine. But, combined with my narrow shoulders, I find the entire neckline too wide  by about one inch and would have happily taken a 1/2 to 1 inch more fabric toward my neck. Oh, also, the pattern says to use binding or something on the neckline. I just stablised with interfacing, finished with my serger and did a turn and topstitch for the neckline.

See how her sleeve is is hanging down from the shoulder a bit? I didn’t stretch out the shoulders by using some bias interfacing along the entire armscye, staytape on the shoulder line and interfacing on the once turned in neckline.

Overall, I’m pretty pleased with this simple top. I’d like to make more in ‘regular’ sweatshirt fabric or even a wool jersey. It would also make a great summer top in a thin knit or silk jersey. It works well with jeans and leggings. I can be casual, but with a nice twist.

In my mind, Liz and  I were going to recreate the editorial photo with my bike. But, it was so bitterly cold when I completed the top, that we looked for a cozy indoor spot instead :-)

I still have the long promised cardigan to finish and post. Things have been so hectic lately!

The material for this top was purchased in part using an allowance from Mood Fabrics for the Mood Sewing Network

Dearest Lizzie’s Purple Friday

15 Jan

I’ve been going on and on about my friend and work colleague Liz’s photography skills. To thank her, I gifted her my Purple Friday shift dress. Liz is an actual Ravens fan whereas  I am a supporter for hometwon pride and the economic impact. I did watch Saturday’s playoff game with friends and I have to say, I lost two on my nine lives. That was the most exciting football game I’ve ever seen. This week, we take on the Patriots. As I was not optimisic on Saturday, I will keep my level of pessimism on a win. But, if we lose, I can muster *some* happiness for Reethi and Ann.

Do you like her little jacket too? Well, I bought this jacket on clearance last year from Old Navy. It’s like 70 percent wool and was a steal. But, it didn’t sit well on me because of my bust. She spotted it in my  closet and it became her birthday gift last year.

She’s also taken possesion of my amaze balls paisley maxi dress. Knowing what I know now, I see I need a FBA. So, I gave it to her too.

Things have really worked out well for Liz and my wardrobe, huh? I’m glad I have a friend who appreicates my sewing and likes my wardrobe just for these kinds of moments. Above is the only garment she’s still clamoring for that I haven’t given up. She’s borrowed this cape a few times, but since I love everything about it, she’ll have to to physically pry it away from me.


January 14, 2013 - Everyman Theater Ribbon Cutting Celebration (2)

Thank you for the comments on my Oscar de le Renta cape! I’m having so much fun wearing it durnig our current warmish break here in Baltimore. Our staff photographer caught this shot of me at a ribbon cutting for a renovated historic theater yesterday.  Blackberry in one hand notes and coffee in the other…..