Pattern Review: Burda Magazine 2-2010-127

Considering I started this Burda 2-2010-127 dress well over two months ago, it feels like a joke that I’m *just* finishing it this morning! Yeah. So, here’s the thing. I traced it during the big snowstorm. Then, things got busy and I would work on it every so often. Then, the sleeves were too small and the collar lopsided. After I recut the sleeves and re-sewed the collar, it started warming up and I figured I wasn’t going to wear long-sleeved blue-grey wool dress in summer. I mean, it was 90 degrees last week! Well, today — barely 50 and it was 30 something overnight. So, this morning I got up and figured I could insert a zipper, hem the skirt and sleeves all before leaving for work and wear my wool shirtdress one time before the season was over.

I LOVE THIS DRESS!! But (yeah. There is always a “but”). I didn’t line it because I was lazy and wanted to finish up faster. That means it wrinkles much easier than something lined would. And, when I recut the seams, I caught some moth damage on both sleeves. I didn’t realize it until way too late. And, it’s on both sleeves. I’ll back it with some interfacing tonight and make this a dry clean only dress.

The dress has a side zipper, which I’m starting to love. I can’t tell you how often I get to work and someone tells me my dress isn’t zipped up.

Of course, there is my NOTCHED COLLAR. My FIRST. I’m shouting, because I’m tooting my own horn so loudly over a NOTCHED COLLAR that I can’t hear myself think.

I did my usual swayback adjustment. Which was perfect for this since it already had a CB seam. I also was lucky enough to use fabric from the Carol Collection. So, this dress was pretty much FREE!!

Here it is without the belt. I do think it needs the belt for shape (unless you are very slim / straight on the bottom. Which, we all know I’m not). I don’t have a skinny belt.

The pattern calls for elastene fabric. I did cut a 40 — which I think is pretty much my new mid-30s size. IT fits. It’s snug across my rear. But, well, everything is. Seriously, this summer I need to learn a better adjustment for my thighs. Again, I shaved the hip curve down. But, still need more depth at the thighs.

Whew. Two finished projects in one week! What is the world coming to? Now, seriously. I have to sew for some other people. At least that  boring duvet cover for a friend.

Wordy, wordy, wordy

I must be really used to Burda’s cryptic instructions because all the directions and diagrams in the Big 4 patterns confuse me! LOL. I actually found myself marking off each section as I went because there just seemed to be so much copy!

I worked like the dickens on my Butterick 6410 dress today. Naturally, I made a huge goof and sewed the back bodice in upside down. Which I only discovered after lining and getting ready to pin in the skirt. Doh!  After taking the entire bodice apart (thank goodness I didn’t serge!!) and re-sewing, I’m done for the day. Bleh. Here it is so far. And, am not loving it. The fabric is super drapey. I think I wish it had more structure similar to the muslin. Especially in the bodice. It’s just very… drapey.  Also, it seems kind of… dull. I have great shoes and some earrings that willl hopefully lift it. But, so far, am underwhelmed. I am happy to say though, that I just have to insert the zipper, hem and I’m all done.

And, lest we forget about another UFO of mine BWOF 2-2010-127. I need to get a zipper for it on Monday. But, it looks like it’ll be cool for another week, so maybe I’ll still get to wear it before summer.

New Sleeves, Redo Collar

Nothing like having to pick our serged set-in sleeves. Boo! They were way way to slim. Of course, I measured #127 from the February Burda *after* sewing them in. They measure just under 13 inches. My biceps are just over 12 inches. So, I slashed and spread and added about 1.5 inches.

I’m also pretty sure I cut the new sleeves off-grain. But, I rather wavey and loose than tight and on-grain!

I’ve also got the collar inserted and I’ll be buying a zipper today from Joann Fabric.  Well, right now I’m about to re-sew in the collar. It’s off my 1/2 an inch. I’ll likely sew well into the night to get this puppy done to wear to work and my dinner date with Robin on Monday.

Fanfreakingtastic!!

I’m going to try and say this as calmly as possible. I MADE A NOTCHED COLLAR!!! And, better yet, it doesn’t suck! Even crazier, Burda’s instructions kinda made sense. Although, I was on the phone with Trena and had to hang up to concentrate. The right is a little better than the left. But, for the first time ever, with no muslin in sight — fanfreakingtastic.

I’m taking your advice from last week and trying to find small pockets of time to sew.  I just don’t have the six hours of uninterrupted weekend time that I used to and I need to make adjustments. So, following many of your suggestions,  I’m going with the 30 minutes to an hour when I can.

So, I’m now working on #127 from the Feb. 2010 Burda:

My only qualm is that Burda says use a stretch woven. Most times, it doesn’t matter. But, it totally did on one old project. I’m hoping this time it doesn’t! If it’s not too snug, it’ll get a lining. If it is really sized for a stretch woven, my mom will be getting an unlined dress.