No Jeans Allowed. Burda 2/2011 #120 Inverted Pleat Skirt (Again)

Baltimore is currently hosting the US Conference of Mayors. That means we have 100s of mayors from around the country in our city this weekend. I’m working several events. I had a series of cute dresses picked out (a new H & M opened downtown and I cleaned up on their opening day specials. I’m talking $10 and $15 lined dresses). But, learned that we had to wear sponsored t-shirts when working. Pooh. And, in the same email was told, ‘No dolling up your shirts‘. Apparently, the word had gotten out on me. Lest you think I’m paranoid, the author of the e-mail came to me and said, ‘That means you.’

Right. We’re also not allowed to wear jeans and khakis were suggested. So… I don’t own khakis. I own two solid colored skirts and they are knits. My black pants are wool and dressy. My summer pants are linen and blue– I don’t want to look like a smurf. So, I quickly (and QUICKLY) sewed up my second version of the inverted pleat skirt after work this week. Luckily, I had it cut out from the week before. The first version is here.

Now, it *is* denim. But, they said no jeans. I think that makes it safe, don’t you? This time, I added the welt pockets to the front and back in a fun seersucker.

I still piped the inside waistband facing and used pocketing for the front pockets. Because the deim is stretch, I also used interfacing along the zipper opening and twill tape along the waistband.

Oh, and of course, I added two inches in length. Still too short for the office (not that I’d wear denim there) but long enough to wear in public. BTW, I gave the first skirt to a girl at the office who is a good three to five inches shorter than me. There was quite a bit of ‘What were you thinking’ from the peanut gallery when I pulled the skirt out.

Now that I’m in version two, I actually don’t like this style for me. It’s too A-line. I think I’m not a fan of sharp A-lines.  I straightened out the side seam quite a bit and deepened the front pleat to accommodate for my full thighs. But, still — visually it widens me. Part of it is the stiffer fabric, much of it is personal preference. I’ve also figured out why I don’t love making skirts. The difference between my waist and thighs is so big (over 10 inches) , that I always have to take in and let out.

Meaning, my waist is small compared to my lower body (like a size 36 in Burda), but to grade to my lower thigh (size 42 in Burda), I have to increase the hip. Then, I find myself with way too much hip curve. So, I’m straightening that out and taking in the waist all the while hoping I made the thighs big enough so it won’t pull across the front. Not the hardest thing in the world to do, but a little more time consuming than just ‘whipping up a skirt’.

Hmm, and this could still be a smidge smaller in the waist. I can see that it’s dropping a touch in the back because it’s a little loose. I also overaccomodated a bit too much for my full seat and there’s some extra fabric back there. But, it’ll do for tonight and tomorrow. And, will be great for the summer!

** The top is Burda 2-2009-118

Burda Magazine 2-2011-120: Inverted Pleat Skirt (Showing the Good China)

Whoa. This skirt is short. Like OBGYN visit short. Like, I’m only wearing you when it’s deathly hot and with full bloomers underneath short.

Oddly enough, when deciding between blue denim or this khaki twill, I chose khaki so they would be work appropriate. Heh. Obviously, theses aren’t getting anywhere near my office!

The front kick pleat visual interest. I tend to drive myself crazy wanting the pleat to stay closed the whole time. But, I don’t think it’s really meant to do that. Or, it’s *slightly* off grain.

It was a really easy skirt.  Because time was of the essence, I left out the pockets. There is no waistband, just a facing. So, I used twill tape in the seam allowance of the waistband to stabilize this stretchy fabric.

I finished the facing with premade bias tape.

For the hem, just serging and a twin needle stitch. I did hem it by one inch. I could have also tried a facing, but seriously. Would 3/4 of an inch really have made this that much longer?

Skirt construction is less than two hours, skirt length, less than two feet.  (ETA: The blouse is from the Janaury 2008 Burda. I wrote a review of it for my China trip.)

And, baby. It’s shooooort. That trench coat is just below my knees. I am kind of a modest person when it comes to dress. I don’t like it too tight, low or short.  If I wasn’t pressed, I probably would have immediately recut and sewn this skirt.

I haven’t shown this much thigh in public since I was at the beach in August 2010. My younger friend Liz (who I am usually telling to wear longer skirts) fell out laughing when I put it on. No fear! I plan to wear compression shorts under it this weekend.

I now realize the Burda model is kind of leaning forward, making the skirt appear a bit longer. Oh, Burda!! Girl, you got me good!

Of course, I could have checked the length and measured. But, I was in a hurry. Truth be told, these are not much shorter than my shorts of two years ago. But, shorts can’t show your hoo-ha.

Needless to say, I’m not picking anything off the floor in these. Dang.

I have a second version already cut out in denim, with an additional two inches in length! But, looking at these photos, I think three to five might have been the right move :)

If you’d like to try it yourself and don’t have this issue, you can find it at BurdaStyle.

Ideas for Seersucker Social ’11

So, the DC Seersucker Social is this Saturday. Originally, I thought I was going to make a dress. But, decided a skirt and top would be way more versatile. I remembered this skirt from the February 2011 Burda, #120

I mean. Really. She’s already got a bicycle. I was powerless to resist. It’s going to be a bit boxy on me in the twill I picked out. But, will be great for the ride and this summer.

I’ve also decided to make a vest out of seersucker. It’s from the February 2008 Burda. Seersucker is not mandatory for the ride :) But, thematically I sort of have to do it.

Actually, I’ve made it before. The black version faded and shrank in the wash.  Still in my closet because I refuse to let it go. So, I’m going to make it up again in seersucker.

I made some headway this weekend but, I’m not done. So, I’ll be sewing every night this week and some on Saturday morning to be ready by Saturday afternoon. And, if I don’t finish in time, I can just wear a pretty dress.