More Wide Legged Trousers: Burda 9-2007-115

Pants!

The shirt is ready to wear from LL Bean three or four years ago

On Monday, I wore the grey version of these. My colleague said, “It must be really cold. I’ve never seen you in pants.” Not such a crazy thing for her to say. I own three pairs of pants. A summer linen made this year. Grey wool from last year and a pair of ‘all season but mostly when it’s not cold’ black RTW pants that I bought because I needed black pants for some event. And, they are terrible on me. Dresses look better on me (although I think I look pretty good in jeans) and pants are harder (for me) to make. But, I get COLD and like to wear pants in the winter. In fact, I would wear pants every day of the winter if I had more. But, I seem to manage to make  just one pair a year and RTW pants all require serious alterations for me.

Well, nothing to get terribly excited about here. They are black pants. What I do like is that my butt looks pretty damn good in these. This is my third go round with these pants.

I didn’t put twill tape along the waistline so they are kind of loose around the waist. By the end of the day they bordered on hipsters. This weekend, I’ll take in the waist at center back and add twill tape. I’m not a huge fan of belts so I like my pants very snug.


I love using metal trouser zippers. I get them at G Street or when I visit NY. But, I think this is the last of my black G Street zippers.

Let’s see. This fabric is from Fabric.com. I bought it last year immediately after making my last pair. But, it languished. Oh, the yoke material I bought in NYC this last time. You see, I lost the yoke pieces between tracing them out last year and sewing them this year.

As you can see, I’m still not  lining them! I got some brilliant suggestions last time on lining options. I could actually shorten this pair another 1/2 inch but — I won’t. It’s interesting. I need to take this version in, but the first two fit perfectly despite having put on weight. Each fabric reacts differently, that’s for sure.

I realize I’m not as enthusiastic about these as the first time I made them. I’m thrilled to have pants. But, they are what I consider functional sewing.

Liz was taking photos for me in the office. Then, Kim walked by and decided she wanted to join the fun. Haha. I really do make that face a lot.

Next: I’m in the middle of a jacket. It was a shawl collar blazer for work, but it totally just looks like a coat.

Can I Name My First Born ‘Cheviot’?

I am 100 percent in love with these pants!!!  They are Burda 9-2007-115  and I first made them two years ago.  Between the amazing fabric and finally getting the construction down, I honestly and truly love them.

These pants are not fast nor are they easy. Iactually had them cut in this gorgeous cheviot wool from Egypt for over a year. But, I was so disappointed with the jacket and just generally struggle with sewing pants that I put it away.

And, I was actually going to throw it out in the “great sewing room move” but never got around to it.  It’s really starting to get cold here and I am (as always) in DESPERATE need of pants / separates.

I love the pockets. They are a thorn in my side to make, but I do just love them. This time, I interfaced all the upper edges so that the pockets stayed crisp.  I also used pocketing  in addition to the fashion fabric.

And, lookit!! My fly front! Yes, I use the Sandra Betzina video. But, it’s always been hit or miss for me. This time, it worked (well, it worked after I ripped it out the first time).

Now, I did leave the pants unlined. But, I am SO BAD at making pants that I figured I was better off focusing on the actual construction of these and getting comfortable with pants before I tackled the lining. Yes, I have fears of the knees bagging out. But, for now, I don’t care! The fabric is super firm and just deliciously soft. I would fly myself back to Egypt for more of this fabric. Truly.

I will say, I have a desire to move away from wide leg pants. Burda says these are suited for ‘tall women’. I’m not short at 5’6. But, I ain’t tall. To qoute my mother, I don’t know that they are doing me any favors.  The muslin Marji and I are working on is a slimmer cut but still needs some tweaking. In the meantime, I have ordered some fabric from Fabric.com to make at least two more of these this winter.

Oh, this is pretty much what I want to wear all winter. Pants / skirt, sweater, shirt. I’m kind of into the three -piece wardrobe right now. When I worked at Lord and Taylor post college the rule was a dress, a suit or pants / skirt with a jacket. I think it’s a good rule of thumb for work attire.

I am so stinking happy right now folks. I have clearly been in a slump. I think, well, I think that 2009 was just a lot harder for me than I was admitting to myself.   I put on the ‘no one is going to ever love me so I might as well get fat’ 15 pounds — which does not make you want to sew (especially when family members think it’s ok to point it out to you. Like I don’t *know* that I’ve put on weight).  Work has been just incredibly busy and painfully stressful. This left me not wanting to sew and not wanting to blog and honestly with little *time* to do either.  But, making these pants — something I have just never done well and have little confidence in reminded me that I LOVE my craft. I LOVE to create and I LOVE to sew. I was SO happy after these pants that I’ve already got my sweatshirt dress from La Mia Boutique cut and pinned. I’ve pulled skirt lengths for my next four projects. I’m happy and not stressed in my sewing room since Marji helped me straighten it out. I guess what I’m saying is I’m back baby, I’m back!

I Just Need to Hem

I finished my pants on Sunday and was SO excited about them I pulled out more wool for another pair. Except, I pre-treated it badly and it is now felted. It feels just like a blanket.

Boo! Oh, well. I think I’m going to use it to make this Burda jacket. Yes, I know it calls for a knit, but it’s got so little structure I think I’ll be fine.

Currently on the cutting table is this sweatshirt dress from the August 2008 La Mia Boutique.

Doesn’t it look perfect for weekends?

What’s that? Yes, the whir of the machine!!

I don’t want to get too excited, but I’m actually sewing a pair of pants! These are a re-sew of 9-2007-115 (original pants are here). This time I’m making them in a gray wool pinstripe. The fabric is from Egypt and the first half of it was used to make this nasty jacket.

The pants pocket are wicked hard. It’s been two years since I felt I could face them again. But, with Sigrid’s tutorial, it’s much easier.

I’m going to make the buttonholes tonight for the pocket. I’m leaning to the gray/white one (second from the left).

A few other notes to oneself. Don’t take apart your iMac Mighty Mouse. I’m like a child with a scab. It was dirty and I could not just leave well enough alone. I found a tutorial online to take it apart and didn’t stop until I cried ‘uncle’. Because that s.o.b. does NOT go back together. I am now the new owner of a logitech mouse.

Hmmm, I’ve also added half a dozen nail polishes along the left on Flickr. I was gearing up to write up my top 15 for fall, but am too lazy for all the coding :) So, below are photos or the most recent ones.  Please don’t judge the sloppy cleanups :). That macro button shows things the world isn’t meant to see!

In somewhat brand order….

Barielle Slate of Affairs

Barielle Blackend Blue

Llamsqua MILF, a gift from Christina!

Color Club Revvvolution

OPI Merry Midnight

People, We have PANTS!

I got an hour today to finish up the 9-2007-115 pants from BWOF. I’m really digging the higher waist looks. Especially since I think I’ve reached the age where it’s no longer cool (nor desirable) to show my stomach. I don’t love my fly front and it’s my fault. I didn’t add enough to the fly extension so the zipper head peaks out. The pants are wonderful, my workmanship is so-so. But, I have fully lined, basic colored pants that I should be able to wear all year. I, in fact, like the pattern enough to make them in another fabric soon.

I left off the belt loops. Mostly because I don’t have a belt to wear with these and the pants fit, so belt not needed to keep them up.

I did make a seam on the CB waistband so it would be easier to make alterations on the pant for fit. This one needed to come in about 2 inches at the CB to accommodate for my swayback. Not an actual alteration, just a taking in. Since I took them in that much / that high, I should have made about a 1/2 inch protruding seat alteration. I think that would take care of the wrinkles below my bum.

I know I don’t sound too positive. But, I really do like these. They just aren’t very well made. That being said, this is about the third pair of pants in my newfound sewing life and maybe the sixth I’ve ever made in 10 years. The fit is pretty good, the style is great, heaven knows I need basics.  I just need to practice a little more.

So, that’s what it’s good for!


My kidney shaped pressing ham was very useful tonight. It’s perfect for pressing that hard to reach crotch curve.


Which means that yes, after two hours and multiple trips from the computer in the basement to my sewing room on the second floor, I made a fly front.

The Sandra Betzina video is in fact good. I somehow still don’t quite have it right. I should have added some width to the fly extension. But, practice will make perfect.


Marking the fly was super easy with my little template. Debbie Cook pointed out on her blog during her Best Jeans Ever week, that you can also use the zipper packet. Who knew? This template has a 1″ and 1-1/4″ marking. There were two. I now have one. I bought them about 10 years ago. Yikes. Do you remember that weird feeling when you could first remember 10 years ago?

I’m also adding a lining to these pants although the pattern doesn’t call for it. It was easier to construct than the pant! To make a lining for these, just eliminate the pocket and attach the yoke to the pant leg.

Ok. I’m going to look for the other template now. That’s going to drive me crazy.


If you bought some of the striped rain coat fabric last week, you know it says ‘dry clean only’ Leslie has done a little pre-wash of fabric samples to see what happens to it with home care. I am grateful for this as I was was too stingy to give up any of my four yards for a test before I knew what I was doing with it.

Two things

I cannot tell you how much I dislike the cheapie Dritz sewing gauge. They bend, they break and that stupid blue slider doesn’t stay put. Here’s how mine has looked the past six months. I refused to replace it.


I Y  Sigrid. For about six months Sigrid collected Knip Modes for me. When they got to me, inside the package was this sewing gauge.

I love that it’s in centimeters, because it’s easier for me to find 1.5 than 5/8 on my tape measure. I will love this “zoommaatje” until I accidentally leave it on the floor and step on it and break it (not that I did that with my glasses last year. Or my mother’s five years ago). Then, I will wish someone else had done it, so I could be mad at them instead of myself.


I’m still slowly working on the 9-2007-115 BWOF pants. Slowly.

Yesterday I got through the pockets and side yoke construction.

I’m using a contrast print for the lining and pocket bag.

The pockets look a little worked over, but they are in. I’m not happy with the side yoke insertion (right hand corner photo below). Next time, I’m going to mark the seam lines so I get a nice square rather than a wonky curvy mess.

The next step is the fly front. Which I am avoiding. It’s just sitting on my cutting table giggling like Chucky.


Thanks for the great comments on the Betty Shopper! And thanks for the thoughtful comments on my finger. It’s not horrible. Just ugly and a little painful. The bad thing about growing up with two nurses who worked in Army Hospitals for parents, with two older brothers who thought it was fun to play ‘helicopter’ with you — is that it takes passing out or imminent death before you go to a doctor.

At least I can still sew!