HP Cosmopolitan #3

I’m all done with the HP Cosmopolitan dress. But, it’s not for me.

Why not? I forgot that I added three inches in length to my version so it’s super short and it’s just really, really LOUD on me.  It’s also not work appropriate at this length and the proportions are just wrong at this length. But, for my mom who is several inches shorter, it’ll be perfect. She can wear it to lunch with Trudy and Jeremy. You know, I always saw this fabric as a maxi dress. But, I’m over maxi dresses for 2010.

The fabric is super thin and white. So, I lined the bodice with a chocolate colored tricot that I stocked up on at $1.99 a yard in Panama last August. It’ll also need a slip for the skirt. It just clings to all the wrong parts of me in this fabric weight. Another reason I should give it to my mom. Slips don’t bother her and she’s got non-existent hips.

I understitched the bodice lining so it wouldn’t show through. And, I stabilized the neckline of the chain link fabric with tricot interfacing. I also cut the sleeves shorter to suit the hem length of the dress better. And, as usual, I don’t hem my knits ;)

This is the second failed dress my mom has inherited from me. So far, no complaints from her! I still love this pattern. Just not with this fabric at this length.


I realize that it’s a little hard to tell quite how large the Betty Shopper bag by Amy Butler is. So, I asked a woman in my office to shoot a photo of me with it today.

I don’t think it’s crazy big. But, I have been describing it as my ‘suitcase’ or generally referencing it as ‘luggage’. Other than a basic inability to find my keys in it, it’s a great work bag.

Today actually felt like Spring and I wore my Hot Patterns Deco Vibe Cosmopolitan Dress today.  I forgot how fantastic this pattern is. I hope I can get around to making another version of it this year. You know it’s a good dress when three straight men tell you they like your dress!

Two Tone Cosmo

The thing about a $20 pattern is you want to make sure you get your money’s worth. Especially when spoiled by 99 cent pattern sales. I have to tell you, the Hot Patterns Cosmopolitan is well worth it.

She’s almost done. I haven’t anchored down the binding, which is why it’s turning out.

Another thing. I thought I made a 10 last time and needed to trace out the 8. I traced out the 8 and realized when putting it away that I had in fact made an 8 last time. And, the reason I had baggy bodice issues before is because I only traced half the dart. DOH.

There’s a lot of fabric / give in the skirt. I think I could size down to a 6 there.

Here’s the original

What’s different:

  • I shortened the sleeves and added a cuff after seeing Christina‘s version

I kept the original pattern length for the skirt vs adding 4 inches like I did last time

  • I only added 1 inch vs 1.75 inches to the scoop front of the bodice. Not on purpose, I forgot how much I had raised it. It needs the 1.75!
  • I also did a sharper taper so the scoop is wider than last time.
  • This month’s Threads talks about working with jersey. After reading it I chose not to serge the front and back seams together, but I still serged the bodice, waistband, skirt bits together. I just think it looks neater
  • Didn’t hem it. Yet. I’m still deciding on the length
  • Christina sent me a Threads article from last year about knits and binding. I played a little by adding a 1/2 inch binding in the contrast color to the scoop neck. I still need to stitch the binding down, but I don’t have this exact shade of brown and will have to pick some up tomorrow.

A friend pointed out that this dress has the same colors as my bedroom. What can I say? I’m a creature of habit.

Whew. Now, to trace out the BWOF pleated dress in the blue eyelet.

Pattern Review: Hot Patterns Deco Vibe Cosmopolitan

I feel like a Dancing Queen in the dress. Very 70s and very sexy. Walking in to work today two women complimented me. I think that this dress manages to be conservative and attractive at the same time. I will definitely be making it again. And I am not a pattern repeater.


Pattern Sizing:6-26.This is the short version, scoop neck with the cuffed sleeves.

It looks like I’m a 10 in Hot Patterns, but I think I could have gotten away with an 8 in the skirt. I’m a 6 RTW, 12 in American patterns and a 38 in BWOF.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The one thing that threw me off in the muslin phase was the 3/8 seam allowance vs 5/8. That’s about it. I did skim over the cuff directions, they just didn’t make sense to me and I did it my own way.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I like that it came on real paper, that it was easy to trace off and that the directions were kind of fun to read. And how trendy is this??

Fabric Used:
I was inspired to make up this pattern after seeing Gorgeous Things’ review of the mock wrap version. Wowser. Originally, I was going to make the wrap version in a coral chain link print from Gorgeous Things. But, decided on the scoop neck version after seeing this photo of Beyonce from Erica B.’s blog. I bought this $5 a yard one-way stretch pale blue matte jersey from Spandex House in NYC last month. They do have the Beyonce / Michael Kors shade of torquise if you are interested.I used some sort of knit interfacing from JoAnns. This was my first time venturing to a knit interfacing. Me likey. Well, I didn’t think it fused as easily, but me likey still.

Total dress price $20.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I would put someone into cardiac arrest with how low cut this dress originally was. I am not one to make a muslin, patterns tend to fit me out of the envelope, but you could see the top of my bra in the muslin. I added an inch to the top of the curve and tapered in through the shoulder. Photo here. I lost the width of the scoop in this version which is a better look for me so next time I’m just going to add the inch to the top.

* Omitted the back zipper and cut the back skirt, waist and back bodice on the fold (remember to adjust for the seam allowance).
* Added three inches to the length based on the muslin. I wanted it to be just below the knee. I’m 5’6. Okay. Fine: 5’5.
* Ended up taking way more in with my bust darts. I goofed with hanging this dress for a couple of days. It definitely sagged in the shoulder area. I’m going to have to store this one flat. Not sure if that’s a product of matte jersey or the quality of my fabric.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
YES!! I feel fabulous. All swirly and cool. Make it.

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Two more days…

My *ahem* 31st birthday is tomorrow and my Post Passover Easter Brunch is on Sunday. I’ve taken today off to get ready.

So last night, instead of writing up my grocery list for my 40 guests, I worked on the Hot Patterns Cosmopolitan instead.
I’ve just got the cuff bands on the sleeves and the hem to complete. Not entirely sure how I’m going to hem it. I also want to say that the fit on top was not great on me. I had to take in about another inch at each of the front darts.
The muslin was a fine fit. But, for some reason, I struggled. Maybe it was the fabric? Maybe I messed up with my seam allowances? Also, I eliminated the back zipper. I’m not sure I would do that again considering that I also made the scoop neck not as deep. It’s a bit of a struggle to get it on and off and I might consider taking and inch out of the back skirt center seam.

I’ll post photos of me in it when it’s complete. *Hopefully* I can be overdressed and wear it on Sunday.

Beyonce, How I love to hate on thee

I hate on Beyonce whenever I can. She’s tall, gorgeous, fabulous figure, amazing voice. Just hating on her. But, I am more than happy to copy her style. Bee (I don’t even have to say ‘beyonce’ because we’re close like that) is in a Michael Kors dress. Erica B. first noted it on her blog. I’m making the Hot Patterns version.

I started with a red jersey muslin of the mock wrap version. I’m normally a 12 in patterns, I went down to a 10 for this one. After fitting the muslin, I decided to make an 8. It was pretty loose all around (which is not a look that works for me) and it was very low cut. Originally, I bought the the coral and brown chain link from Gorgeous Things, but Ann did it too. I don’t hate on Ann, but I can’t compete. So I’m saving that for a DVF like wrap dress.

So I started over with the left over red jersey and made the scoop neck muslin in an 8. I’m skipping the center back seam since it’s a knit and should pull over.

This fit muuuuch better. But, it’s again low cut. Without the facings, I could see the top of my bra.

So, I added an inch to the front and tapered up through the shoulder. I’ve done the same with my facing. I didn’t keep it at one inch all the way through the shoulder because I did not want to have to adjust the back facing also. I’m also adding about three inches to the short version. I didn’t care for where the skirt was hitting me.

I’m planning on cutting this all out tonight and sewing it up on Friday.