Tag Archives: hot patterns

Pattern Review: HP 1016 Riviera Hello, Sailor! Pants

23 May IMGP3419

Guys. I think I’ve found my holy grail pants. For *real*. I’ve wanted a pair of sailor pants forever. Seriously. At least 10 years. When I made my big Hot Patterns purchase two years ago, this pattern was the first I put in my cart. I even muslined it a few years ago, liked the fit, but just never got around to sewing it.

I love these pants.  They are everything I wanted in sailor pants. Plus, they are a really really good cut for me. I only have glowing remarks about the draft and pattern itself. I did make two muslins, but that was to check fit.  I’ve taken lots of photos because I would have found some more helpful in construction / picturing final product.

Fabric: Super heavy, cotton / linen blend from A Fabric Place /Michaels about three years ago. They kind of wrinkle when you look at them. I used the khaki version for the Burda trench/ safari jacket and skirt. I am nervous that there was NO stretch in the material. These pants are snug on me and I’m worried that I’m one potato  chip away from splitting them. Hence, my desire for some stretch. They did not feel this snug in my two muslins! I swear!

Pattern Alterations: I made a swayback adjustment by extending the back curve and adding about a one inch wedge through the hip. I cut a size 12 and these fit nicely.

There is some fabric folding at my crotch, but consensus at the office is if the waist was snugger and stayed up higher, those go away. That being said, I think they are slim fit.

There’s loads of chatter about HP directions. I sew with Burda! The directions overall were fine. Yes, a little sparse in comparison to Big 4 but inline with Jalie and Burda. And, I think that chatter is from the early days when tehre were directions and no diagrams. This pattern has diagrams without which I do not think I could have sewn these!  **& ETA: Trudy at Hot Patterns reminded me that they now post tutorials on YouTube.

For this pattern, the main thing to remember is that the front ‘dart’ is not a dart. Those two lines are in fact the stitchlines. Erica has a helpful diagram.

Because the fabric is all natural, I expect it grow like my linen pants did. So, I used twill tape in the upper waistband to prevent stretching. But, I would like it to stretch everywhere else! I’m reminding myself that jeans used to not have lycra and they stretched…

I wish I had used twill tape and re-shaped the flap a bit. The upper edge follows the curve of pants / waistband, but I would like like it more straight across the top and the upper edge stabilised with twill tape too. Especially because I used cream topstitching, I feel like the flap is smiling against my stomach.

I serged my finishes. These are unlined and would have looked gorgeous with bias binding for the finish. Next time, that’s what I’ll do.

The ‘lining’ is seersucker left over from a vest project.

I struggled with buttons. I was afraid if they were too bold, I’d limit myself from wearing ‘statement’ pants. If they were too subtle, what a waste all the details would have been. I also couldn’t decide on top stitching or not. I am terrible at making these kind of choices.

I did make the buttonholes 1/2 inch from the edge. I think I could have done 3/8 or so and been happier. My buttons are 1/2 inch as recommended by the pattern. I think they are a little small. Not terribly. That being said, I FREAKIN’ LOVE these black buttons with gold anchors. There is no button placement guide on the pattern. Which I kind of like because you may not always want the same button size recommended.

The design is based on a Marc Jacobs sailor pants.

Last thing, the vent in the back. So, I was going to leave this off b/c I wasn’t sure it was ‘classy’ enough for work.

But, it’s such an interesting detail (and straight from the inspiration) I couldn’t resist. I’m also happy to report that my underwear don’t show.

But, I HATE EYELETS. These inserted like crap and don’t look good from the back. There is so much fray check on these holes I think they are emitting toxic fumes.

Note the graveyard of badly applied eyelets.

I’m hoping to take them to NYC with me soon and have them done professionally. Or, take them out and use my eyelet template on my automatic buttonholer. The pattern directions don’t have a suggestion on where to place the eyelets.

Overall, I’m THRILLED. I’ll have these in time for Baltimore’s Navy Week / Star-Spangled Sailabration in June.  I have serious stunt / theme dressing planned for June :)

My pattern review is here

Notes on construction details (these are just some notes I made to myself while sewing that I was unclear about upon first approach. Nothing is ‘wrong’  – just more detail for me.

First, I my preferred method of pant construction is to sew the waist band on to each leg piece. Then assemble to pants at the side and front seams. Personally, I find it much easier to take in the waist (common for me) this way. I haven’t quite worked out how I would do that with these pants. Luckily, I muslined first and they fit fine at the waist. But, could be 1/2 inch to 1 inch snugger.

Step 2: My stand is not finished at the bottom as I missed the step on sewing the short ends.

Step 4: You want to use the non-intefaced pieces

Step 5: If you are serging, I recommend you finish all the front button. See my photo below for which edges are left exposed

Step 6: When joining the facings, you’ll do so right sides together

Step 8: ‘Join the fabric layer’ means right sides together and as noted above, that’s not a dart. One if your ‘stitchline’

Topstitching back: the line drawing for pattern has topstitching only going up to the waistline. I thought it looked ‘short’ and extended onto and through the waistband.

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Hot Patterns 1015: Riviera Once, Twice, Three Times a T-Shirt

18 May IMGP3243

While I have a stack of Hot Patterns’ that I’ve purchased, the Once, Twice, Three Times a T-Shirt came from a friend.

Almost true to the name, I made two of the three versions of this shirt. If I had a coverstitch, I probably would have made the third too.

In HP, I measure in a 12 (Glamour Girl) on top and a 14 (Slinky Girl) on the bottom. I’ve read HP is closer to RTW sizing. I’m telling myself they are close to UK RTW sizing. I buy an 8 in US RTW.  Based on reviews and the line drawing, I knew I wanted a snugger fit and cut a 10 through the upper body, an 8 at the waist and tapered back to a 12/ 14 at the hip. I also wanted a shorter version than drafted and took out six inches at the waist. In retrospect, I wish I had just done four inches for length.

The PR Reviews noted some errors in the directions. But, I didn’t follow them. The shirts have very basic construction.

All that being said, here’s the first version (note the French nauticalness of the red, white and blue). This style is based on a  $500+ Chloe shirt (I do not follow fashion. I only know it’s Chloe because Erica B. pointed it out four years ago!).

I made this tee up in two cotton jerseys from the Carol Collection. I always knew these were going to be a tee with contrast! I have narrow shoulders and hate things that feel like they might drop off, so I shaped the neckline by one inch, tapering into the shoulder. As drafted, it’s more like a slit.  I didn’t bother with the facings and just turned down the allowance. I also moved in the shoulder line by about 1 inch on each side (1/2 inch too much IMHO) to prevent my bra straps from showing or having the shirt slip off the side.

The pattern doesn’t note pocket placement and I don’t like where I put it. A little over and further down would make me happier. I sewed everything on my serger, hemmed with a twin needle and interfaced all the edges with tricot interfacing. I didn’t make an FBA either.

 

The front and back are the same

I *like* it. I don’t love it. It should have been longer and slightly more fitted to flatter my figure.

My yellow version is based on a $1200 Roberto Cavalli top.

I was totally not drawn to this style until I saw Christina’s version while checking reviews.And, now that it’s made up, I am 100 percent in love with it!

For this one, I moved the should line only 1/2 inch. This fabric is left over from my Burda 6-2010-123 sack dress. I bought in during PR Weekend in Philly. I still have enough left over for a fitted tee! I think I thought it would be a wrap or maxi dress when I first  bought it.

I didn’t hem the sleeves, but did finish the neckline and hem with a twin needles stitch in white.


The front and back are the same, I didn’t make my usual swayback adjustment


This sews up so fast it’s hard not to love. Each of these was made on a weeknight while watching TV. In the future, I’ll make it a little longer (I took too much length out). And, will have to try and resist not turning every slinky knit I have into one of these shirts. I think this pattern is good value for your dollar. You’ll get three tee shirts in one envelope. It’s awesome for a beginner too.

My review on PR is here

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Serger Down

25 Sep

My Euro Pro serger has the *worst* customer service. In 2007, I ordered two sets of knives for my machine.  I finally got around to switching out my old blades for the 2007 blades this week. While trying to serge my leotard, the knives were just chewing up my fabric. Turns out they are dull. Meaning, my brand new knives that I finally needed to use have no knife sharp edge. Smooth like butter. I called Euro Pro in Montreal to ask for an exchange and there’s nothing they can do since the warranty / exchange is for 90 days, not three years. I’m not sure why, but last time it took over two months for me to get my knives last time. So, no serger for the forseable future. And, after owning a serger, a sewing machine finish just  won’t cut it for me. So, for the next few weeks I’ll be tracing and muslining and making things that don’t really need a serger finish.

So, this weekend I’m working on Hot Patterns 1092, The Classix Noveau Pyramid Bag.

I plan to make this out of black leather. I asked the guys at our printshop to reduce the pattern for me by 40% after reading from many that they found the size a bit unweildy. As you can see, I still traced the pattern out because I wasn’t sure if I was going to want to make alterations. Plus, I couldn’t find my ‘paper’ scissors and Trena said under no uncertain terms I could use my fabric scissors.

At a smaller size I also felt it would better, replicate the look of this Trouve bag. The pewter version looks even more similar.

Here’s how it looks in my muslin as compared to my Fossil bag (Nordstrom says the Fossil bag is an Extra Large)  which measures 15″W x 10″H x 5 1/2″D. The original Pyramid bag is 22 inches wide.  My draft is 9 inches wide at the base. Maybe 11 at the widest.

*** ETA: I’m going to ask them to reduce the pattern by 25 percent vs 40. I compared my muslin to other med – large bags I have and think it’ll be a better size for me.

I feel like it’s a hair too small. If it were wider on the bottom by 1.5 to 2 inches on each side, I think I’d be happier with it. It is big enough to hold my Blackberry, personal cell, wallet, makeup, lotion and Nook. Does it *really* need to be bigger?  I’m loathe to go back to the print shop and ask them for a 30 percent reduction. You know? Of course, I could just take it to Kinkos.

What do you think?  Am I just used to really big purses or should it be a little bigger?

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HP Cosmopolitan #3

31 Jan 100_1146

I’m all done with the HP Cosmopolitan dress. But, it’s not for me.

Why not? I forgot that I added three inches in length to my version so it’s super short and it’s just really, really LOUD on me.  It’s also not work appropriate at this length and the proportions are just wrong at this length. But, for my mom who is several inches shorter, it’ll be perfect. She can wear it to lunch with Trudy and Jeremy. You know, I always saw this fabric as a maxi dress. But, I’m over maxi dresses for 2010.

The fabric is super thin and white. So, I lined the bodice with a chocolate colored tricot that I stocked up on at $1.99 a yard in Panama last August. It’ll also need a slip for the skirt. It just clings to all the wrong parts of me in this fabric weight. Another reason I should give it to my mom. Slips don’t bother her and she’s got non-existent hips.

I understitched the bodice lining so it wouldn’t show through. And, I stabilized the neckline of the chain link fabric with tricot interfacing. I also cut the sleeves shorter to suit the hem length of the dress better. And, as usual, I don’t hem my knits ;)

This is the second failed dress my mom has inherited from me. So far, no complaints from her! I still love this pattern. Just not with this fabric at this length.

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An Expensive Muslin

12 Oct

There are no words for how badly I would like to have the two new Hot Patterns. I desperately HEART this bag and the dress is just too cute for words. But, I own 10 of their patterns (Um, Trudy and Jeremy. You might want to leave me off the mailing list the next time you do a buy-one-get-one-free)  and have only made up one (albeit twice). So, I told myself if I whipped through a few this fall I was totally entitled to buy the new ones!

Where did that dressform come from? It was from my whirlwind weekend to DC, Philly and Jersey. But, more on that tomorrow. I made up the Portobello Road Shearling Coat. I’m calling it my expensive muslin. I bought this fabric from FabricMart and it was not love at first sight. I decided to use this for muslining this coat after Trudy e-mailed me special to make sure I used a thick fleece weight fabric for my muslin.  And, if I had made it in the size that the pattern *says* I am, would have likely been all  but perfect. But, noooooo. I thought I knew more than the pattern and went TWO sizes smaller. Sigh.

I’ll be honest, I did not and do not know how the collar is supposed to assemble. And, I didn’t spend a great deal of time on it because I knew this was my expensive muslin. Other than changes for my body, I must recommend that you perhaps go with a 3/8 vs 5/8 seams allowance. Why? Because I think the sherpa showing is a touch thick. I would also recommend you remove ease from the sleeve cap. I had to take out two inches (below) to get the sleeves on this pile of fuzzy vinyl to ease in. And, for my fabric, I found the cut of the back skirt too ‘full’ and would straighten out the curve in the back seam.

Am I going to make it up soon? Sadly, no. I have a piece of fabric that is perfect and gorgeous (denim backed sherpa from PR Portland 2009)  but I’m still holding out hope that it’ll still become a motorcycle jacket. But, I totally think this counts towards me being able to buy the new Hot Patterns.

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Ringing in the New Year

1 Jan

I have had some fun, some dismal and some low-key New Year’s Eves. Last year was the great ‘I will never sew for other people‘ incident. The year before I played poker through the night with my date and friends. One year I had benihana at some strip mall on the Tennessee/Kentucky border *shudder*.


This year, I spent it with my other favorite redhead (Trena is the other one) seeing a great show at our local theater. Following that, the theater had dinner, a live jazz band, dancing and a champagne toast.

So, let’s begin 2009 with a new garment! A girl’s gotta have a new dress for New Year’s Eve, right? Originally, I was making this Hot Patterns dress to Meet the Parents. But, I didn’t finish it on time. So, here is the Wong Singh Jones Kimono Dress for 2009!


The construction is pretty straightforward for those used to BWOF style directions. Hot Patterns has it listed as Advanced Beginner and that’s about right. They have also added some photos since I made a pattern from them which are helpful.

And, I don’t know how I did this, but the front doesn’t hang straight. I cut the skirt wonky. Actually, I think I reversed the front pieces and have the side seams to the front… Machts Nichts!

I did shorten the shoulders by 1/2 inch in addition to taking in the dress another 1/2 inch along the front princess seams. It was broad in the front but the back fit me perfectly. Taking in at the front means the seams don’t fall directly over my bust apex. LOVE the modest neckline in the wrap!! I had to take some ease out of the skirt along the side hips to eliminate some gathering (but not the pooling) at my back waist.


The ties I cut by almost six inches I think. I thought they were going to be too long. But, I think they are supposed to wrap around twice (and probably should due to the construction there). I think next time I still need to make a swayback adjustment.

I added several inches to the skirt length and the skirt bands to get this length just below my knees with a narrow hem. I think the skirt would be on the short side as drafted. The pattern says it’s supposed to be at the knee and that it’s drafted for someone 5’8. I am 5’7 on a good day. I would measure and see if it’s where you want it to hit before cutting into the fabric.

The waist tie section is different. You add an interfaced facing for stabilisation (especially if you choose to add the button closures). I didn’t add buttons and it stayed closed fine. But, I did interface the facing. I chose not to add the buttons because I think I should have gone done a size for the waist and it wouldn’t have been as snug as I wanted.


Overall, I’m happy with the dress. I want to make more in different color combos and will be ordering some rayon jersey from Gorgeous Fabrics today! I can see this being my go-to with a nice beefy knit. This one is from Jomar in Philly and was $1 or $2 a yard. The contrast is from Metro Textiles, $8 a yard. So, about a $10 dress.

This is my second Hot Patterns and I have to tell you, I’m a little in love. Not only is the sizing seemingly made for me, but I HEART the styles! I have about four more in the stash. I know that we can buy patterns for far less from the Big Box Stores, but Trudy and Jeremy are living the dream (at least my dream) and if I can help them do that, while they support the home sewing industry, I’m all about it. Think of their patterns like shopping at your local farmers market. Besides, if you make something up a couple of times, I say you’ve gotten your money out of it.

Happy New Year!!

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Perspective

10 Apr
I realize that it’s a little hard to tell quite how large the Betty Shopper bag by Amy Butler is. So, I asked a woman in my office to shoot a photo of me with it today.

I don’t think it’s crazy big. But, I have been describing it as my ‘suitcase’ or generally referencing it as ‘luggage’. Other than a basic inability to find my keys in it, it’s a great work bag.

Today actually felt like Spring and I wore my Hot Patterns Deco Vibe Cosmopolitan Dress today.  I forgot how fantastic this pattern is. I hope I can get around to making another version of it this year. You know it’s a good dress when three straight men tell you they like your dress!

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Two Tone Cosmo

2 Jun

The thing about a $20 pattern is you want to make sure you get your money’s worth. Especially when spoiled by 99 cent pattern sales. I have to tell you, the Hot Patterns Cosmopolitan is well worth it.

She’s almost done. I haven’t anchored down the binding, which is why it’s turning out.

Another thing. I thought I made a 10 last time and needed to trace out the 8. I traced out the 8 and realized when putting it away that I had in fact made an 8 last time. And, the reason I had baggy bodice issues before is because I only traced half the dart. DOH.

There’s a lot of fabric / give in the skirt. I think I could size down to a 6 there.

Here’s the original

What’s different:

  • I shortened the sleeves and added a cuff after seeing Christina‘s version

I kept the original pattern length for the skirt vs adding 4 inches like I did last time

  • I only added 1 inch vs 1.75 inches to the scoop front of the bodice. Not on purpose, I forgot how much I had raised it. It needs the 1.75!
  • I also did a sharper taper so the scoop is wider than last time.
  • This month’s Threads talks about working with jersey. After reading it I chose not to serge the front and back seams together, but I still serged the bodice, waistband, skirt bits together. I just think it looks neater
  • Didn’t hem it. Yet. I’m still deciding on the length
  • Christina sent me a Threads article from last year about knits and binding. I played a little by adding a 1/2 inch binding in the contrast color to the scoop neck. I still need to stitch the binding down, but I don’t have this exact shade of brown and will have to pick some up tomorrow.

A friend pointed out that this dress has the same colors as my bedroom. What can I say? I’m a creature of habit.


Whew. Now, to trace out the BWOF pleated dress in the blue eyelet.

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Cutting Fiend

1 Jun

Since I got more fitting than sewing done over the Memorial Day holiday, I’m cutting up a storm in preperation for sewing this weekend. Plus, I’m working almost every night next week so no time to sew then.


I’ve cut the Simplicity 3803 day gown / maxi dress out in a green and white seersucker. I realized in the muslin I made up Wednesday morning before work that I needed a little more space in the bust cup. So, what would any girl who has never done a FBA do? I cut it on the bias. This way I’ll get some give plus a neat design element. I haven’t started sewing yet because I need to buy lining.

Second, I’ve got the two tone Hot Patterns Cosmopolitan pinned and ready to cut. I’m doing a short sleeve version with a cuff like Christina at Assorted Notions did. The contrast will be a rose pink.

Tomorrow I’ll cut and thread trace the BWOF pleated dress that I blogged about all weekend. I talked with NiceGirl last night and she walked me through converting my long sleeve to a puffy short sleeve. I’ll try to show it when I get to that part.


Also, here is a pin cushion I pinched from my mom this weekend. As I’ve mentioned, the Colonel doesn’t sew, but she always had a sewing kit. I always loved this pin cushion because it was a pretty purple velvet and a neat Tiffany Blue metal. She’s had it since before I was born. Now, it’s mine.
Finally, my new camera came in today. You should see the brick I was using! It’s a luscious chocolate brown and I could not be more excited. Click on today’s photos — they are *crystal* clear!

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Pattern Review: Hot Patterns Deco Vibe Cosmopolitan

24 Apr

I feel like a Dancing Queen in the dress. Very 70s and very sexy. Walking in to work today two women complimented me. I think that this dress manages to be conservative and attractive at the same time. I will definitely be making it again. And I am not a pattern repeater.

 

Pattern Sizing:6-26.This is the short version, scoop neck with the cuffed sleeves.

It looks like I’m a 10 in Hot Patterns, but I think I could have gotten away with an 8 in the skirt. I’m a 6 RTW, 12 in American patterns and a 38 in BWOF.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The one thing that threw me off in the muslin phase was the 3/8 seam allowance vs 5/8. That’s about it. I did skim over the cuff directions, they just didn’t make sense to me and I did it my own way.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like that it came on real paper, that it was easy to trace off and that the directions were kind of fun to read. And how trendy is this??

Fabric Used:
I was inspired to make up this pattern after seeing Gorgeous Things’ review of the mock wrap version. Wowser. Originally, I was going to make the wrap version in a coral chain link print from Gorgeous Things. But, decided on the scoop neck version after seeing this photo of Beyonce from Erica B.’s blog. I bought this $5 a yard one-way stretch pale blue matte jersey from Spandex House in NYC last month. They do have the Beyonce / Michael Kors shade of torquise if you are interested.I used some sort of knit interfacing from JoAnns. This was my first time venturing to a knit interfacing. Me likey. Well, I didn’t think it fused as easily, but me likey still.

Total dress price $20.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I would put someone into cardiac arrest with how low cut this dress originally was. I am not one to make a muslin, patterns tend to fit me out of the envelope, but you could see the top of my bra in the muslin. I added an inch to the top of the curve and tapered in through the shoulder. Photo here. I lost the width of the scoop in this version which is a better look for me so next time I’m just going to add the inch to the top.

* Omitted the back zipper and cut the back skirt, waist and back bodice on the fold (remember to adjust for the seam allowance).
* Added three inches to the length based on the muslin. I wanted it to be just below the knee. I’m 5’6. Okay. Fine: 5’5.
* Ended up taking way more in with my bust darts. I goofed with hanging this dress for a couple of days. It definitely sagged in the shoulder area. I’m going to have to store this one flat. Not sure if that’s a product of matte jersey or the quality of my fabric.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
YES!! I feel fabulous. All swirly and cool. Make it.

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