Blue Boxers, German Translation and Most AMAZING Burda Archive

I was planning on throwing in some boxers with Jordan’s Hanukkah gifts in December. But, then I thought, are underwear really gifts? Is that like getting a pack of socks from your parents? So, I decided to just make them over Thanksgiving and give them out when I was done. I tried, but he wasn’t trying to model these for my blog either. SO incredibly selfish.

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These are Jalie 2327. I’ve made them before in two or three batches for Jordan. This time, I made up five in size U. I think I found with these sizing down a size was the fit he wanted. For the waistband, I measured his waist and subtracted six inches. The Singer Sewing Reference library book on lingerie (I don’t know that Jordan would appreciate knowing my measurements for his boxers comes from a lingerie book, heh.) says subtract between 2 and 6 inches for waistband elastic.

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The fabric is Under Armour wicking material at like $5 to $7 a yard that they use for underwear. Local Guss Woolens was my UA fabric resource, and they closed up shop. So, I’ve sort of hoarded this material. I have it in three more color ranges so he should be getting boxers for a few more years now. The waistband elastic is from Sew Sassy (and conveniently University of Michigan colors). I also have it with black and grey from easy.

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Nothing too fancy here. Everything constructed with the serger. It’s as close as I get to production sewing.

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The elastic and hems are sewn with the overstitch and wooly nylon in the lower looper.


 

For myself, I have a few new bra patterns from the German company Sewy.

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They are Isabell and Leonie.  They are blessedly in my size range. But, entirely in German. If there are any German speaking readers who would be willing to translate for pay or exchange of fabric, patterns, etc, please let me know. I’ve made enough bras that I get the gist. But, English would be easier. Just leave a message at the bottom and I’ll contact you.


 

Melissa over at FehrTrade tipped me off to this on her blog. There is an incredible Burda archive here that allows you to search based on tags, size, fabric or garment. Incredible. Check it out. It’s already caused me to track down some Burdas that have patterns I *need*. You can also run the link http://burdavisor.ru through Google Translate to sort out how to download the archive. Seems like it has to be re-downloaded every month. But, with the Plus, Easy Fashion and Regular editions included going back to 2004, it’s well worth it.

Coverstitch Makes Six

A few months ago I gave up on my five year old Kenmore sewing machine. The tension was always wonky and I couldn’t reliably get a nice stitch from it. I’ve been sewing on my vintage green 3/4 Kenmore (Kenny) for the last three months or so. In that time, I bought a new (to me) serger, new (to me) blind hemmer and now a brand new coverstitch. Why?

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I realized after conversations with two sewing friends that I have perfectly serviceable and reliable mostly metal sewing machines (this Kenmore 1040, my Singer Featherweight and my pink Morse). Those machines deserve to be sewn on. I realized I wanted to up my sewing game and have my clothes look as Ready-to-Wear as possible. I believe in having one machine that does one thing well. Rather than a machine that does a couple of things ‘fine’. I was ready to spend $$$ on one new machine. But, decided it was better spent filling out my machine arsenal.

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Enter, the Pacesetter, the Brother 2340CV. I despise the twin needle sewing on a machine for hemming. I hate the tunneling. I hate finding two spools of matching thread. I find on elastic, the stitches still pop out. And, I’m just about hardly ever satisfied with how it looks. The coverstitch allows me to do a nice, sturdy, RTW looking hem in minutes.  When my CS came in, I finished the hems of three dresses. I fixed two tops where the stitching had popped. Minutes it took!

So, yes. I am exploding with machines. But, this is the beauty of living by yourself and not really needing a dining room table.  I have the space :)   I now have three vintage sewing machines, a serger, blind hem and now a coverstitch. I thought about the BabyLock coverstitch since I kind of want to marry my BL serger. But, I couldn’t plunk down the $1300 they were asking for an ancillary machine. For less than half that, I got the Brother will all the offered attachments.

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I decided to make my boyfriend some new boxer shorts from a Jalie pattern so I could play with my serger and the coverstitch.  These sew up so fast! And, are always appreciated.

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I remember being in Montreal and the founders of Jalie told me I *needed* a CS.  I barely knew what one did at the time! Previously on these boxers, I had to sew three rows of zig zag at the waistband. With my Pacesetter, I just went around once and have three rows of stitches with a nicely finished inside.  My leg hems are ALMOST perfect. But, of course I didn’t take a photo of that.

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For the leg, I removed one needle, changed  the thread colors to grey and stuck with white for the looper (easy peasy).

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And, in more awesome news. I think all these industrial binders I bought in China (FOR TWO DOLLARS EACH) three years ago will work just fine with the coverstitch and some putty. I’m going to get hemmers (I hope!!) when I go back to China this September.

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Yes. I’ll be back in Shanghai and Xiamen next month.  Anyone in Shanghai the first two weeks of September? My plan is to save photos of the hemmers on my phone and show them around in the Xiamen garment district.


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And, on a sad note. Thank you for your prayers and good wishes for granny. That’s her with my mom and uncle as a child back in Carriacou, Grenada. My grandmother passed away on Wednesday night– two weeks after her 90th birthday. I’m so so happy we were able to celebrate her as a family while she was still alive. I’m really sad for my mom, aunts and uncles. Granny was my last living grandparent and the one I knew best. I’m happy to know she and I will always have sewing in common and that part of our family history lives on in me.

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Tweaked Performance Boxer Briefs: Jalie 2327

I am a last minute sewer. I whipped up two pairs of black wicking boxer shorts for a birthday gift before work last Thursday morning.

I first made these boxer briefs in royal blue as a holiday gift back in December. I made a few mock pairs up for a volunteer pattern testing friend to ‘test’ run for me. After giving the briefs as a gift and hearing back from my pattern testing friend, I decided to make another tweak to the pattern.

The first tweak on my original pair (above) was adding a gusset in the crotch area (based on RTW and comments). This allows the boxers to ‘snug’ up in between the legs so to speak.

This time, I added more of a curve to the fly — about 1/4 inch for a total of half of inch. The red line is the original pattern line. This should allow them to be more fitted. I tried to think of it like a bra cup. The previous version didn’t have enough depth.

I believe the pattern is discontinued. I saw ‘performance boxers’ at Sam’s Club last week. They were two for $21 I think. This fabric is Under Armour wicking from Guss Woolens in Baltimore and $5 a yard. So, I made two pairs for $5 really. Unfortuntely, I bought the last of this waistbanding from an Etsy seller. But, I’m on the constant hunt for more.

Guss Woolens has this thin wicking in black and several shades of blue. I plan to use some for myself for workout tops and underwear.

Weekends

Yesterday I went down to the DC suburbs for the MD/VA/DC blogger meet up organized by Lisa. Good times! I’ve been wearing the heck out of my little purple shift (worn below). Despite swearing I wasn’t leaving with any fabric, I walked away with about ten pieces from the unloved fabric table. Heh.

This weekend I also made up two pairs of men’s boxer briefs from a Jalie 2327 for a holiday gift. I’m not sure how they fit yet as I’ve not gifted them yet.  But, based on some snooping around in underwear drawers (pun intended) I figured out the size I wanted to sew.

I also noticed that the RTW pairs I saw had a gusset in the crotch (horrid word), so I added that.

I used some flag elastic from eBay for the waist.  Gives it even more of an International Male (link is SO NOT safe for work) vibe, LOL. One pair is just from tubular cotton in my stash. No idea where it came from. The other pair is from the Under Armour knit I bought from Guss Woolens.

I do think the fly  is INSANELY long looking.

This took about 30 minutes from start to finish to sew. Super easy and actually useful. I’m probably going to make my dad a few pairs too. But, with traditional brief elastic and in boring white or gray. He cannot take fancy stuff with his drawers.