Tag Archives: review

Vogue 8776: Oscar de le Renta Double Wool Cape

12 Jan IMGP5690

With an unexpected two days off from work from Hurricane / Tropical Storm Sandy back in November, I got to business in my sewing room. I decided to sew three ‘quick’ unplanned projects that could be finished within three weeks. Ha! First, I finished up my Tracy Reese Dress (Part I of the Sandy Collection), sewed up my second Purple Friday dress (Part II of the Sandy Collection) and then moved on to this Vogue 8776 cape (the closing piece in the Sandy Collection runway show). I like my style. But, I am NEVER quite this ‘fashionable’. It’s a step outside my box that I plan to return to!

I first spotted this cape on Erica B. in 2011 and it was lust at first site. I wasn’t sure what to sew the cape with but wildly decided to use my Oscar de le Renta double wool that I purchased locally in Baltimore back in 2010. It was a random remnant piece in the store. They’d gotten it from a closing fabric store down south. So, it was by happenstance that I was able to buy it. But, Mood Fabrics online  is still stocking it in this and a second colorway! The lush (and expensive) fabric quickly became ‘too good to cut’. I consulted with my sewing bestie Trena and she said it was a bigger waste to let the fabric sit for years than sew something I wanted *now*.

Plus, the fabric is Linus Approved. How does this dog manage to sit on every piece of fabric in the house? It’s like he has a Warm and Cozy radar.

The first thing to note is this material is crazy thick. So thick  and warm that I  started regretting not making it in to a nice, every day work coat. But, as I progressed, decided the material is not suited to a structured garment. A cape was just about right.

I found it impossible to mark the wool layers with waxed tracing paper. So, for the first time in 20+ years of sewing, I made tailor tacks using my basting thread from the Netherlands.

Because the material is so thick, I didn’t want to use a double layer of the double wool  for the facings. So, I used two different scrap pieces of thinner wool I had laying about  (black and charcoal) for the inside collar and front facing. Which all required hand-freaking finishing. I’m sure there’s a way to do it by machine. I just didn’t think of it in time. I got it all done during a football game last Sunday. And I’m not handsewing for at least a six months. I detest it. From the facing to all those snaps, hand sewing is the worst. I don’t find it soothing, I don’t care how much control it gives me. It’s why projects languish unfinished for three months in my sewing room :)

Oh, speaking of which, Piece 2 (center front) isn’t marked with how many to cut. You’ll need four from your fabric and two from interfacing.  As for interfacing, I didn’t use any. Again, material was so stable with the fused wool, it wasn’t needed. But, I regret not using stay / twill tape at the center front seams. I think my edges are a bit wonky because it needs some stabilisation and the seams have stretched out a bit.

Buttons. You’ll see that I just have two placed at the in-seam buttonholes. I wanted to use all buttons, but with all the layers and double woolness, its was too thick to easily make buttonholes. So, I stuck with the already sewn in-seam buttonholes, and used snaps like Heather suggested in the comments from my last post on the cape. I like that they were already black (except the very last one) so they blend in nicely.

In honor of this cape (and to support two vintage coats in my wardrobe), I bought the cashmere-lined leather gloves I started looking for last year. Neiman Marcus Last Call had them for 50 percent off so they were “just” $47. I was pretty happy with them until I saw Oliva Pope’s cream colored, opera length, leather gloves on the latest Scandal episode. I swear that woman is *owning* winter white!


I know capes can by super impractical. But, they are great for warmer winter days and going in to fall. After a week of 30 degree temps, we’re back up to 50s this week. You never know what the weather will bring! I seriously now believe in having a coat wardrobe.  My blue cape is crazy popular and I get stopped on the streets.

I was so sad when I couldn’t tell you where to find this fabric. It was a total random find for me.  Here’s a link to the black and white herringbone version.  It’s pricey, but seriously luxurious. I’m glad I didn’t let it fester in ‘too good to sew’ land.

Thanks again to my Dearest Lizzie for her photography. Can you believe she has no photography experience?? When she offered to take pictures for me, I was hesitant. She’s big on the dark photos on a camera phone for her Facebook page. But, she blew me away!! Turns out, all she needs is a flash! It was her idea to go under the overpass at our office to get these shots. I apologize for the bitch face. All my smiling photos showed my increasing laugh lines in HD.

I also got several unsolicited compliments on my outfit. I’m wearing a blue bubble skirt I made to bike in the Netherlands with my recently completed black turtleneck.  It’s probably a little short for work but with the tights it seems to be o.k.

Onward! I need a palette cleanser. Two final sweater knit projects are coming down the pike.

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Burda Magazine 9/2012 #104: Superlong Turtleneck

7 Jan IMGP5572

I may never be able to leave my job if I lose Liz as my new photographer. Or I’ll have to take her with me.

Are you ready for some basics? I saw this Burda Magazine turleneck on Sew Skate Read  from September 2012   in an awesome stripey knit and decided I needed a few in my life. So, into  the ye-old-stash I went for my two versions (one black and and a stripey grey and black).

I wanted these tunic-style turtlenecks for transitioning my clothes into winter and comfy weekends in leggings. Plus, I’m visiting Ann Arbor, Michigan in February and am already DREADING the ten degree temp difference from Baltimore. I need all the layers I can get!

Alterations: Dartless FBA (One inch width, 3/4 inch length)  and a swayback adjustment. I have *got* to start shortening my shoulders on a regular basis. These are both too long by 1/2 inch in the shoulder.

These are so simple I’m really just showing them to keep a record for myself of what I’ve made and to show you the difference fabric can make.

This grey is another sweater knit that feels the same as my Purple Friday side gather top. Oh! I now know where the fabric comes from!! I bought it in Montreal during PR Weekend three years ago. I didn’t remember it because I was over my weight limit baggage wise and sent it home with my mother. From my post back then,

I bought so much, that I had to split the haul with the Colonel. I sent her back to Tampa with several sweater knits that I know I won’t be working with this summer

I didn’t get it back for another two years :) So, I’d kind of forgotten about it. That purple and these two knits are all from Montreal.

Because the grey has a lot of stretch and a loose weave, it’s super scrunchy in the neck. The sleeves as drafted are supposed to be 1 1/4 inch longer than usual.


I never wear all black. I felt like a mime or a beatnik, LOL.

The black is a sturdy rayon double knit. I think I planned some kind of form fitting dress originally. But, as I was sewing, I regretted not using the material for leggings. It would have been perfect!

I’ve got a little pooling at the back waist. While I did slice and dice my way to a swayback adjustment, I decided to still cut on the fold to see the difference it made. Better than RTW, but more fitted with a center back seam.

While long, the turtlenecks work well both on their own and layered under other garments.  The other pattern version in the September issue is three inches shorter. I would make that version if you don’t see yourself wearing these over skinny pants.

Here’s how I layered them this week:

This dress has been worn like three times since I made it. I was sewn in 2011 from Burda Magazine 10/2009 #119. I was never really happy with it. I hate the way it flares out on the sides. My first version was much better.

My trusty tuxedo pants! These get worn weekly when the temps drop. The blazer was (funnily enough) also purchased in Montreal during PR Weekend from H&M.

First posted project of 2013 :)

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Burda Magazine 9/2012 #109: Blue Wool Sweater Dress

30 Dec IMGP5489

I’m continuing my current passion for sweater knits in this Burda sheath dress from September 2012. While I’m still tracing mine from the magainze (tears), you can download it for a mere $5.40 from the BurdaStyle website here.

This marine blue knit was purchased in the same bundle as the autumnal pullover I just completed. The knit is incredibly soft. I love the way the colors meld in this knit. I originally sewed this dress to wear to a Hanukkah party and have pulled it out a few times for work since then.

Since the pattern uses the same upper body model as my recent pullover, the FBA alterations on the French darts / busts were already done.

I love the sleeve technique used. See the pleat at the deltoid? It’s sewn in one fell swoop with the shoulder seam.

Next time I make this dress (and there will be a next time) I’m going to use the same back neckline  from the original pullover. I decided to skip the zipper, but you’ll see here in the back that this dress version doesn’t have the v-shape back necline as the pullover.

That makes the dress little bit of a stretch to get in and out of since I use interfacing along the neckline and armholes to reduce… well, stretching. Also, I think this a lot of dark fabric too close to my face. I thrive in color and I think something more open in the neckline might be more flatterning.

Is it strange that only in the last two years I’ve noticed how incredibly short my neck is? Strange because I’ve always thought my mom had a short neck. Now, I think *I* have a short neck. Which means, of course, that I’m well on my way to becoming my mother….

Notice I’m not holding a remote nor am I in my backyard or dining room? It’s was so foggy when I wore this dress. So, I talked my friend Liz in to being my photographer and this is our conference room. Man, it’s so much easier to have someone else take your pictures (as long as they know you need 60 to have one good shot).

Look at me! I’m ‘working’.

Look at me! I’m ‘modeling’

Heh.

I’m a fan of this dress and have to thank Caroline for turning me on to the style! I feel more coming in wool jersey, don’t you?

I have two more sweater knit projects coming, including something I never thought I’d make. A cardigan! Stay tuned :)

The material for this dress was purchased in part using an allowance from Mood Fabrics for the Mood Sewing Network

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Burda Magazine 9/2012 #130: Purple Friday Side Gather Pullover

28 Dec IMGP5541_zpsaa89b459

Folks, this is the last of my Purple Friday Posts for this football season! The Ravens had an amazing game against the Giants last week and are AFC North champions (I only have a vague idea about what that means). I’m told we’re in the playoffs. I’m sure someone at work will clarify for me…

I needed one more winter Purple Friday garment for work. Also, I think purple is a lovely Christmas color, no? I’m posing in front of the outdoors Christmas tree at my office building. Liz, my friend and colleague, is my photog today and she *rocked* it. I didn’t have to retouch a single picture and only cropped like two of them.  I don’t want to be obviously self-indulgent and post *all* of the amazeball photos. But, if you want to see them, you can click here and I can maintain the pretense of modesty.

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This little pullover from the September 2012 Burda Magazine is kind of perfect (available for download on BurdaStyle.com) . I like the gentle drape of the slight cowl. I looooove longer sleeves. I support any top that I can wear over leggings / jeggings and cover my bum and distract from my thighs.

I sewed a 38 and did not grade up for my hips. I did make a one inch dartless FBA and I think the fit is spot on. And, of course I made my usual swayback adjustment. Looks like I could have taken a ‘smidge’ more there too.

Any other changes? Well, I think the elastic length called for (or the braided elastic I used) needs to be shortened. When I first sewed the side seam elastic is wasn’t really gathering much and providing the shape I wanted. So, I shortend it by about five inches.

I took about two inches of the elastic on the sleeves too. I haven’t a clue where this sweater knit came from. I have some vague memory of it. But, that’s it. Just a vague memory. It was discovered in the great fabric-move-to-higher-ground so Superstorm Sandy doesn’t get it. I can happily see this top in other fabric iterations including a burnout / see through jersey layered over a tank.  When I first tried on the finished top, I also thought it would be *great* as a ballet / yoga top.

Speaking of tank tops. In the editorial, the model is wearing one. I found the neck opening a bit wide and adjusted the shoulder seam by about 1/2 inch on each side. This does impact the drape slightly, but not much. I also think the shoulders are long for me. But, most shoulders  are. I just never think to measure and adjust.

I’m not even sure of the content of the sweater knit. But, it’s cozy and will be great this winter. But, because I’m perennially cold (Carribbean parentage!), I’ll also be pairing it with this blazer.


(I should have rolled my sleeves down. And, this is my first time in five years wearing jeans to the office. But, it’s a holiday week and a Friday)

Likey? It’s an exact copy of a beloved J.Crew blazer from college. My mom had this version made for me in Korea about six to eight years ago. The original was beige and while it still fit, it was showing it’s age and looked dingy. So, I sent it to my mom and she had it remade in Korea. I loves it. I guess the tailors did too, because they didn’t give her back the blazer!

I hope you all had a Merry Christmas with family and friends! I was sick like a dog with a wicked cold. My mom is arguing with me that it was the flu. Somehow her 40+ years as a nurse tells her that, lol!  I spent a big chunk of my mini-break in bed instead of sewing. But, Christmas Day I ws better and had a low-stress and lovely time. I saw Le Mis, ate sushi for dinner and latkes for breakfast. I think 2012 is going down as my best Christmas ever. Well, except the year I got a Speak and Spell. That was pretty awesome.

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Burda Magazine 9-2012 #106: Wool Sweater Knit Pullover

17 Dec IMGP5449

It’s a well documented fact that I am insanely jealous of knitters. I love love love wool sweaters. I think cotton sweaters are useless for keeping me warm. And, they fade. They fade badly. But, wool sweaters have moved out of my price range in the last ten years. For real. I can remember buying 100 percent wool sweaters at lower to mid price stores like GAP, American Outfitters, J.Crew and Express as a matter of course. In fact, I still have a wonderfully warm and dense sweater from American Eagle purchased well over 10 years ago. But, now sweaters are thin blends and just not the same quality I used to find. Actually, I was at H&M and saw a men’s sweater that had a bright sticker saying ’50 percent wool!’  So, it’s not just me who is looking for wool :)

I was super excited to find several wool sweater knits at Mood Fabrics when I visited back in October. I took some samples home with me and started digging through my Burda magazines for an ideal match in this Burda Magazine 9-2012-106. At $18 a yard and needing less than two yards for a sweater, I knew I’d be hard pressed to buy a RTW sweater for less.

My first sweater is a orange/ brown sweater knit that feels as soft as my friend’s J.Crew cashmere. The color just about blends in with my skin in real life :)

It rocks under my suits — including this denim ‘washable suit’, heh. The denim adds to a 70s vibe the color gives off.

The sweater knit doesn’t have the highest recovery. So, my sleeves stretched a bit into a bell shape. Noting this, I took about three – four inches out of the neck binding.

The French darts provide great shaping. Thanks for my Facebook friends I was able to alter the bust for a one inch FBA.

If you’ll notice, I did the binding on the bias, the bottom band on the crossgrain. It helps provide some visual interest.

Ahhh, and the back. I did a 1.5 inch swayback adjustment. I also added 1.5 inches in length to the pattern and shortened the bottom band by about four inches.

Overall, a winner of a pattern and a sweet warm sweater to boot. I’ve already gotten loads of wear and compliments on my sweater. And, best of all, I was *warm* :) I have a few more sweaters planned for this winter from Mood’s sweater knits. I feel toasty already!

The material for this sweater was purchased in part using an allowance fromMood Fabrics for the Mood Sewing Network.

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Burda Magazine 5-2011-111: Purple Friday Wool Tunic

20 Nov IMGP5332

I’m on to my second Purple Friday ensemble for this football season. Hey there Oona… how about that game on Sunday?

In Baltimore, we wear purple for our American football team the Baltimore Ravens on Fridays. Why? Well, they mostly play on Sunday and Purple Fridaysare a way to show pride and support in the team. Did I mention my house is right behind the old Memorial Stadium?

Every Friday of football season is PURPLE FRIDAY!!!! Proudly wear your purple to work or school to support the Ravens! — Ravenstown

This is the true color of the dress

I wanted to make a simple shift for Purple Fridays that could also be worn on the weekend during winter. I want more casual clothes   that look nice and not ‘I rolled out of bed and threw on yoga pants’.

I started the shift dress from the May 2011 Burda Magazine during Superstorm Sandy. It was a simple project that I could complete in a day. And, I did. A few hours actually.

But, I’m salty about the fit with those fold lines under my bust. I’m not sure if the need for an FBA would solve the problems.  I know it’s a another sack dress but the folds are A-nnoying. Maybe one fold for each 1/4 inch I should have adjusted for?

I asked a few friends that are smaller up top to try on and the folds go away.

Here on Trena (obviously three sizes too big for her too) and below on my B Cup dress form.

I decided to forgo the facings and use a woven bias binding. This is my first time doing this kind of finishing technique on a woven and I’m really pleased. I also like leather and contrast bindings I see on RTW and now I have a good way of doing them consisently well.

The material is a wool in a violet shade of purple from the Carol Collection. I originally thought I’d make a skirt in the fabric but Purple Friday called and I thought this shift would be fun.

Oh, here’s a photo of the back. I omitted the ties (and the pockets). I can kind of picture metal chains instead. Hmm, maybe a T-back shirt in black too (my bra definitely shows without). Ooh, a lacy T-back would be hot.

I’m wearing the dress with leggings. It’s too short for me as drafted to wear with pantyhose.  I’ve already altered the paper pattern for a FBA and a swayback adjustment. Why didn’t I when I started? I thought it just wouldn’t matter :)

The dress looks pretty good in movement and I think it works well with the leggings and boots. It’s fun because the front is simple and all the interest in really in the back. It is just the look I wanted. Casual, but styled.

My immediate boss was a fan. She said I was dressing rather chic lately. I realized after she said so that she never wears prints and for work only wears black, navy and sometimes white. Her clothes are very tailored and architectural. She also specializes in large earrings and big jewelry. I like her style.  I wouldn’t say this was chic exactly. But, very minimalist. I have about three garments she’s really complimented. Hmmm, that might make an interesting post!

I think I’m going to make two more Purple Friday items. That let’s me get through a month without repeating.

 

I hope you (Americans) have a Happy Thanksgiving! I’m not going to see my parents this year (Can you say $600 tickets!?!?!) and I’m a little pouty about it. But, as I detest traveling on the holidays (chaos and stress) there is a silver lining to hanging out with local friends. Plus, I get to put my new *pink* Christmas tree up as soon as I digest my Thanksgiving dinner :-)

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Vogue 1252: Tracy Reese Ruched Leopard Print Dress

15 Nov IMGP5192

Tadaa!! It’s finally done, Vogue 1252: the Tracy Reese Ruched Dress. While I still have a little Golden Girls vibe from the animal print, once I added the skirt, I started to like it a lot more. I found myself having to just walk away several times in order not to give up on this pattern.

Issues: As Amanda pointed out, this dress has no negative ease built in to the outer fashion fabric. I had to take a total of six inches out of the bodice to get a ruched look.

And, I still don’t think it’s ruched enough at the front since I only took out two inches from the front bodice vs four inches in the back.

Also, I didn’t make a FBA — which I could use. Paticularly in the drape. Some extra length and width there would make it lay the way I want (all the way across the boobage).

When you sew this dress, you’ll notice that the lining needs to be stable because it must carry the weight of the very full four-panel skirt and support the ruching of the bodice.

I decided to skip the elastic at the skirt waist casing. Well, I didn’t decide. I forgot about it during construction. The dress is snug  enough at the waist without it. But, I’d likely take in the waist another inch or two if I were sewing again. I think this cut (or maybe the gathered skirt) makes my waist look a little thicker. This might be better suited to someone who is not as well defined in the middle.

I also messed up by sewing in the bodice lining before the skirt lining. I had no interest in taking it off to add the skirt lining so I just left it out. I do like the clean finish the lining provides. I never really think about linings on a knit. I will now.

At first I thought I put the pockets in the wrong place. As drafted, they are in the front skirt seam instead of the side seam.

So, why is it impossible to find a non-seperating 20 inch zipper with aluminum teeth that’s not custom? My friend’s roommate makes felted wool bags (available here). He had a roll of aluminum zipper teeth on black tape and he cut one for me to my specs for $4. That’s what it would have cost to order online special – minus the $8.95 shipping. Oh, the zipper was also waaaay shorter than the opening the pattern called for.  Not sure if this is a pattern error or how you sew a vaguely exposed zipper. I confess to not reading the directions on inserting the zipper.

This dress is so far outside of my comfort zone in this animal print. I have many reasons for not loving animal prints, all are nitpicky and solely my issues. But, I’m glad I went with it for this. The fabric was a G Street / Groupon special and I wouldn’t have bought it otherwise. I do think I had this dress in mind when I purchased. And, of all the animal prints, this one seemed not so bad.

My dress was wildly popular in the office Wednesday. The women where I work are snazzy dressers. If totally get extra credit for making my own clothes. If I didn’t, I’d be considered one of the least interesting dressers at my job. My big boss is trying to talk me in to giving this dress to her. She loves an animal print.

As much as I like this dress and as good as I think it looks. I don’t think I can recommend this pattern. I love it. But it needs a lot of tweaking to work. The tweaking is in part based on the amount of stretch your material has. But, maybe the trick is to start by sizing down one or two sizes. If you’re patient, go for it. If you are not patient, leave it alone.

** It was 34 degrees this morning. I’m not ready for winter! So, I’m starting early with the indoor photography. I want to get better at getting the coloring (well… my coloring) right. I really need to check out an external flash and some classes.

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Sewing Meetup and Simplicity 3939: Fleece Dog Pullovers

13 Nov IMGP5009

Great Holiday Weekend!

Monday was a blast. Trena and I met up in Pennsylvania this weekend at Fabric Mart Fabrics with other online sewers. Trena has a full rundown on her blog. I didn’t bring a camera so I’ve ganked the group photo from her Flickr :)

Group Photo

Layla, Mary, Claudine, (me), Lisette, Trena, and Diane Drexel. Layla, Mary and Lisette came up from Maryland, Claudine from New Jersey and Diana was regional to the area. I’d like to tell you I bought nothing. My plan was to buy some masculine striped tee shirt knit for a boy. But, I walked away with a stack of poly knit prints. I thought I’d sworn off poly knits because of BO. But, thanks to the input on PR and here on my blog,  with the use of amonia and enzymatic Biz in my wash, my clothes are fresh again.

I’m wearing my favorite sweatshirt dress from La Mia Boutique. It’s about three years old and starting to show it wear (I never did stabilize the neckline). I adore this dress and plan to make one again soon. Just need to track down some ribbing…

This weekend I also managed to pull out Simplicity 3939, Doggy Pullovers
For the first time *ever*, I actually purchased fleece from Joanns. I always used to wonder who could possibly be buying all that freaking fleece. Now, you can count me as one of them.

I realize this post will likely only appeal to the dog owners / lovers out there. I understand. Heh. I have two other dog clothes patterns to try out and review. Consider yourself warned…

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Dog clothes barely  take 1/2 a yard of material for Linus and the cost benefit is crazy. Fleece for 50 percent off means  Linus gets a new sweatshirt for less than $5. I have to say, I hate the way fleece feels.

Simplicity 3939 is one of two dog sweater / sweatshirt patterns I picked up on Saturday night on my way home from a baby naming ceremony in the county. I was really about to swear off Joanns. Two weekends ago I went and they had not a SINGLE ONE  of the eight patterns I was looking for. Maybe mine’s gone to hell because this more suburban Joanns had everything I wanted.

So, this pattern was intriguing to me because of the back leg sleeves on View A  (Eddie Bowser) & B (Bark Avenue). I cut the size small based on his length measurement.

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HAHAHAHAHA. I can’t stop laughing. I think he looks like he’s wearing a Union Suit or a onesie.

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He spent a few minutes trying to shake it off (note his hind leg)

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But, eventually settled in to it.

I do not think I can take him out in public wearing this. But, it’s good for night and when I’m gone during the day and the heat is down. It’s also less bulky than his wool hand-knit sweater.

Next, I went with a more traditional tee shirt, Version C: Yuppy Puppy. Dude. People LOVE them some little dog in a shirt. I walked him in the red pullover and had three people stop and chat with me / Linus. They thought he was ‘sharp’.

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Not much to report here other than I’m about to save a lot of money sewing these instead of buying them. Seriously. This took less than an hour to sew from start to finish.

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Both shirts use ‘Blizzard No Pill Fleece’ from Joanns. I need to buy the Baltimore Ravens fleece next time for Linus’ next Union Suit. I have another argyle fleece that I may try the other pattern from. The possibilities are troublingly endless…

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Seriously, Linus has a good life, LOL. This is how we watch TV at night.

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Burda 12-2011 #148: Pendelton Wool Dog Cape

10 Nov IMGP4951

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Before I got a dog, I thought I’d love to sew little doggy clothes. Once I got a dog, it seemed to be such fussy sewing that I just bought the things Linus needed. Except, a coat. Well, I bought him a little cape for winter, but it’s terrible. It’s not very warm — he’s still freezing when we go out now that it’s cold.  It’s a little too big for him. Third, it’s got a satin lining with velcro closures. So the lining is all stringy and chewed up now from the velcro.

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After reading Peter’s post and his notation the he doesn’t skimp on dog coats, I decided I needed to take matters in to my own hands and make Linus a cape / coat. This morning I dug up my 12-2011 Burda and traced out the dog cape from the British Style section. The whole project took less than two hours.

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Now, before you roll your eyes and think I’m silly and doesn’t need a coat, he really does get cold. He’s a chihuahua which are Mexican dogs. He is bald as a billard and has short thin hair and zero hair on his belly and little body fat. Last week he started wearing a wool sweater I bought for him during the day. Otherwise, he shivers in the house. And not shivers in a little nervous dog way. Shivers in a ‘Can you please turn up the heat and get some insulation in the attic? I am freezing what’s left of my testicles off’.

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The pattern calls for two layers of fabric. I decided to use a 3/4 remnant of Pendleton Wool from the Carol Collection.

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The lining / inside is a Burberry pre-quilted lining. It’s from my failed lined trench coat project.

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I didn’t change much. I just shortened the length by 2 inches at center back.  For the ‘belt’ and neck tab, I added reflective tape to the fabric. I’d had this in the stash from my rain gear project for my bike trip to the Netherlands.

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The reflective tape seems to work great (below)!

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We were walking late two nights ago and were almost hit by a car. Seriously. It came within a foot of us in the middle of the cross walk. If I had not pulled him in to the air by his leash, he would have been crushed. I was so freaked out I had tears my eyes. Since then, I’ve been walking him with my IKEA safety vest on myself. I don’t know if they didnt’ see us or they were being jackasses.

I have reflective piping. Next time I’ll add it to the collar. I don’t have the buckles on hand so I’ve got it tied here. But, will order a few this week for the belt.

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I think this would work great in just about any material. I need to make him a waterproof version for cold and rain / snow.  I’ll make a third when it warms up to wear just as a rain coat.

If I were to change anything else, I might make the collar a little smaller. It kind of overwhelms his frame. And, I’ll add an inch back to the length of the cape. I’d also like to add a second belt to help the back of the cape stay secure / close to the body instead of peeking up and letting in the cold. Or, place dart in the back to snug up the fit in the rear. Finally, I’m going to take an inch out of the width or make a dark at the neck to keep it closer to his frame.

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Oh, and I knew the coat was a success before I started. He’d already made a bed of it while I was prepping the pattern for cutting.

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Vogue 8825: Royal Blue and Gold Silk Jersey

6 Nov file_zps36ad1d91

After my Purple Friday dress, it feels great to return to my bold and graphic print roots!

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But, let me tell you. This was the slowest silk sewing, evah. Let me splain you.

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I first saw this silk jersey material in store at Mood Fabrics back in August. I hemmed and hawed and finally placed a phone order in October (now sold out).  I loved the blue and gold because they are my sorority colors and I knew I could get some good wear out of it during graduate chapter and regional meetings. Since the silk was just 45″ wide, I bought five yards at $25 a yard. I seriously debated the investment (hence the two month wait to purchase). But, both Trena and Liz pointed out a similar RTW dress would easily be twice as much.

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This is my second time sewing with silk jersey. This Prarie NY silk jersey presented some new challenges for me. The fabric was ‘tough’ in that even when pinning, I had trouble penetrating the material. I knew silk was strong (silk thread for buttonholes, silk organza for stablising, etc.). But, my serger  just wanted to eat this material. I tried both stretch and ball point needles and my overlocker was having none of it. My sewing machine was punching holes through the jersey I wanted to cry. I think I may have a little.

I posted on Facebook and had some superhelpful responses. I went out and bought microtex and titanium needles upon the suggestions of the Interwebs. Both sewed through the silk like a knife through butter. It’s my first time experiencing this challange. But, again, only my second time with silk jersey.

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I did a little handtacking of the collar to keep it in place. In a similar dress to this from Burda, there is interfacing throughout the facing and collar. I think this is a better way to stabilise the front.Photobucket

I took two inches off the bottom and decided not to ‘finish’ the hem. I made my usual alterations of a slight FBA and a big swayback adjustment. I sewed a 12 and the fit seems to be good. I am very self conscious about my lower thighs (saddlebags), so a slip is needed for me when I wear this dress.  Photobucket

The puzzle print is pretty bold. And, for a hot second I thought about trying to match the motif. But, decided not to bother.

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There is some mirroring on the upper back. Trust me, I can live with it.

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The skirt could probably be cut on the fold, but for my swayback adjustment purposes, I like a center back seam.

If you see my cuffs, they are folded under toward the inside. On PatternReview.com I read some people took length out of the sleeves.

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I thought the length of the sleeve was fine, but the cuff wide for my taste. So, I’m folding it back.

Have I mentioned my mom *hates* sashes on me? She calls them ‘that fabric in front of you hanging from your waist’. HAHAHA! She cracks me up.

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Overall, I’m thrilled. This dress is *so* me.  It’s body conscious without being tarty, the bold print, the shape of the skirt, the full sleeves. The silk. Man, the silk. I want to have a work week of silk jersey dresses. It’s so luxe.  I love that I’m wearing a dress that would start at retail around $300.  Absolutely worth the investment.

The material for this dress was purchased in part using an allowance from Mood Fabrics for the Mood Sewing Network.

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