Vogue 8888: Minty Green and Black Lace Chemise

Minty green and black are so retro, aren’t they?

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This is my third foray into sewing clothes I can sleep in. My flannel short set and flannel pyjama pants are still going strong. I made this nightgown last year, but it didn’t hold up well. I decided to dig into deep stash and sew this minty green stretch silk. I bought this fabric back in 2007 to copy a dress a friend has. I just never got around to sewing it.

Vogue 8888 (from Vogue website)

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I think this is so pretty!! I’ve always wanted pretty things to sleep in. For this pattern, I made a one inch FBA and no swayback adjustment. I’m bustier than the model and will tell you the slip has a great level of cleavage.

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The awesome black lace was gifted to me from Kathi R. I love how it plays against the mint green. I was worried it was too sharp a contrast and would have done better with something lighter. But, I love how the colors play against each other through the lace.

The pattern calls to be cut on the bias. But, I went up two sizes, cut cut on the straight grain and with the stretch of the silk — it was perfect.

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Yo! Check my straps! I bought this strapping off of eBay. The original pattern calls for sewing tubes of fabric for the straps.  Yeah, screw that noise. Well, 1.) I lost the pattern piece. 2.) I hate sewing small tubes of anything. So, I bought these bra straps and sewed them on.

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It looks a little more RTW in my opinion and was a snap! And, if you’re wondering, this slipprovides ZERO support, LOL!

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I tried a narrow hem and it was not a good look – bubbly, wrinkly, wavy.  So, I serged and turned under once. I still may turn under a second time.

I told myself I was making view E next. Same material. Different lace. I’d also like to make this pattern again using black knit tricot from my stash and wear it as a slip. I really like this pattern!

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Thank you for the good wishes for my grandmother. She’s back in her nursing home and hopefully on the mend. The news has been less than encouraging. But, she’s a seriously tough broad. I mean, c’mon. She raised TEN children!

Thank you also for the comments on my last dress. I too am super happy with it.  Since it’s black cotton, I think it will be a dry clean only dress to prevent fading over time.

 

Vogue 1099 (oop): Badgley Mischka Jacket in Bamboo Denim

I finished this  Vogue 1099 (oop): Badgley Mischka jacket well over a month ago. But, didn’t have a hook and eye closure and didn’t know what to wear it with! 

The jacket, I think, can be a bit hard to wear. I tried a bias skirt in orange it just looked to ‘big’. My wide leg black pants made me look like a block since I don’t have  thin, six foot long, model legs.

So, this poor beautiful jacket has been languishing on my dressform for weeks. I finally figured out this Burda 9-2009 skirt I made last summer to wear and wore it to work on Tuesday. It was incredibly popular. My hyper critically fashionable boss complimented me on it. Twice. She’s way into modern detail on clothes. Plus, she was probably telling me to wear more blazers!

I first talked about making this Badgley Mischka jacket in May, THREE YEARS AGO. This is why I am working out of my stash folks. Three years go by before I can even contemplate getting something sewn that I have all the supplies for.

Me, circa 2009

I was able to try this jacket on during PR Weekend Portland 2009. It’s a little odd making a garment you’ve already tried on and seen made expertly. The good thing is that you know you’ll like how it looks on you. It’s a jacket I never would have though of if I hadn’t tried it on. The bad thing is you’ve got something to live up to! I’m not sure what size the on above is. The material (despite the bright blue below) is the exact same bamboo denim. I bought what was left in the store!

When I tried on the jacket, I could see (and remembered) that there wasn’t enough room in the bust despite the ease of the jacket. For my version, I sewed a 12 with a 1 inch FBA. I find it a little constricting in the back. But, then again, I don’t often wear woven jackets. I think I should have sewn a 10, my version is little more full. But, I don’t think it looks bad.

The lining is a floral cotton that I also got that weekend (because I had this jacket in mind) — or in California for PR Weekend LA. I honestly am no longer sure….. The pattern does call for a double collar — with organza for the inner collar. But, I didn’t have any and thought it looked just fine without.

I don’t know how to explain this, but I do not love the sleeve insertion — especially the lining. For the shell, there is little easing needed, but I found the sleeve head kind of flat and just ‘meh’ for my taste. For the lining. I don’t know what was going on. But, it took me a lot of pinning and thinking to make all the pieces work out. I know that’s not helpful. But, I was working on it at 11 pm on a Friday night and didn’t think to take photos.

I followed the directions to the letter including hand sewing  the the lining to my blindhem stitched hem. Good grief. I can’t remember the last time I handsewed a hem!

I would love to make this up again in seersucker (are you shocked by that), white linen or a beautiful black silk shantung. It’s a quick sew. I had the entire shell cut constructed and sewn in four hours. That includes the super annoying gathering on the sleeves.

As you’ve gathered, I mostly sew from Burda. I don’t mind Big 4. I just have a ton of Burdas and they have great designs and the fit works really well for me. I’m glad I saw this made up so I could try it. Plus, it’s interesting to see pages and pages of directions again after the two 100 word graphs that Burda likes to spit at you :)


Here’s my tribute to the Diamond Jubilee, of which I watched none. I cut off my satellite TV several months ago and still haven’t gotten an antenna for my TV. I mean I still have a Roku and Hulu, etc. Just not broadcast television. I’m a definite Anglophile. My parents are both from Commonwealth nations, the UK was my first foreign country visit and my mom lived in England for many years. I’ve also got a slew of cousins there. Plus, I do a wicked British accent when I’ve had a glass of wine too many. At any rate, Diamond Jubilee tribute:

My friend Liz got this Union Jack harness for Linus. He’s so stinking cute it’s criminal. I love the graphic nature of the Union Jack and have a ridiculous pinterest board dedicated to its use in every day objects.

Vogue 8120: Blue Silk Dupioni Blouse

My mom is always lamenting that she can never find nice blouses for a reasonable price at the mall.

So, I brought material from home down to Florida with me. After a run to Joann’s we picked out this Vogue  8120 blouse pattern (they were on sale this week).

I figured making her a blouse was a fair trade off for all the stuff I’ve lifted on this trip (digital camera, vintage pink pyrex casserole, off set spatula, slippers, potato masher….).

Instead of a muslin we did a quick pin fit. Man, I wish I could pin fit myself! What a time saver!  I took two inches of width out the back,  made a two inch swayback adjustment for her and added two inches at the front waist.

The silk is a black and blue crossweave from Fabric Mart. This silk frays badly and needs to be underlined for structural reinforcement. I’ve had garments from this type of material before that have ripped just from looking at it. This underlining gives it a beefier feel. Kind of like an unstructured jacket.

And, because I have no serger or zig zag machine in Florida, I was forced to sew French seams. I say ‘forced’ because in 20 years of sewing I’ve not made a single functional French seam.

Christina was so troubled by this that when I invited myself to her place in Seattle two years ago she literally sat me down to show me how they are made. It’s a pretty way to finish the seams. I even did them around the arm hole.

I used fabric selvedge along the biasy edges of the bodice. This gave me something to ease the fullness onto and keeps it from stretching out.

I made small ties on the inside to tie on the left.

And, my mom had this brooch since their time in Korea and added it to the top.

My mom asked if I was going to make her something every time I visited. I didn’t respond.

Here’s my dad inspecting my work. Honestly, I’m not sure he realized I actually knew how to sew, LOL. He told me ‘good job’. I suspect I’ll have to make something for him next.

I also bought another pattern for a skirt. But, I feel the need to sit around the pool on my last day here and do nothing. I hear it’s raining at home and there was a tornado warning. Plus, I had the asinine idea of leaving here at 7:00 a.m. so I could be at work around 10:00 on Monday. Which of course means I have to get up at 4:30. It seemed like a good idea at the time.

Weee!!! Pants (SWAP #1)

Ahhhh. I can’t tell you the sense of relief of adding a new pair of pants to the wardrobe. I made these about three weeks ago, washed them twice and they’ve held up!

These are Vogue 8457, view C (with pleats, no belt). They are made up in a silk herringbone I got from Fabric Mart last year, I think it was $10 a yard. They are fully lined with some Bemberg from Joann’s. Overall the pants were probably $30. They are super wide. Like I walk and feell the cuffs swinging about wide. But, I like them because they hug my slim bits (hips and waist) and glide over my not so slim bits (rear and thighs).I did make a swayback adjustment to the waistband and like how they are snug against my back. Something unusual for me. Other than that, they fit me out of the envelope. Ok, I probably could do some sort of seat adjustment because they look like they are struggling with ease up and under my rear.

I couldn’t find my directions (well, I found them the morning when I was ALL DONE) so I used my Sewing Pants from the Singer Reference Library to make the cuffs. The cuff on these pants are really deep. In fact, I took several inches off the length and reduced the depth of the cuffs. The cuffs are huge again because they were dragging and getting dirty. I still need to tweak the cuffs so that they are even. Oh, I also tacked them in the seams, the front and the back.

I made belt loops, but I think I’m going to remove them. I don’t have a skinny belt. Well, I do, but I can never seem to find it when I need it i.e. now. I’ve gotten a lot of wear out of these and will probably make my next pants up in the same style. They are totally working for me.

Look Ma! No prints!


These pants conclude the parade of finished projects for the week. Hopefully some sewing over Thanksgiving. Maybe another skirt project and the start of pants or a shirt.