What I’m Working On

I’m trying to stick with my 2010 sewing resolutions. No more fabric and using my non-Burda international magazines. The first one in that vein is from Patrones #267. My friend Beery bought this back from a Spain business trip in 2008.

The garment I want is model 13 (267-13). It’s a XX dress from the Joven edition. Does *anyone* know what size bust Patrones drafts for?

Here’s what I’ve got so far in a gray striped menswear fabric:

Despite making a muslin, this dress still needs some serious tweaking. So far I’ve made a colossally bad FBA. The darts are practically on my sternum. The fit in the waist is still pretty baggy (I may have flipped the midsection pieces). And I had to shorten the bodice by an inch since the mid-section was sitting on my hips. I made myself stop sewing at midnight. I really should have stopped at 11! The neckline is far to high and I don’t know how I feel about the fit through the skirt.

If I sew like a bat out of hell, I’ll get this done today. But, well. I have three Netflix gathering dust too.

14 comments

  1. I don’t remember having trouble with the bust area drafting but I do remember that their back-waist measurement to which I add an inch in Burda patterns was long on me after doing this mod.

    • Oh, that’s helpful! Mine is also way long in the back. I didn’t think to take that measurement too.

  2. I made one muslin of a vest and I just assumed it was a b cup and used my upper bust measurement and did an fba based on that. It was fine, but it wasn’t a fitted vest. Did you add sas to the neckline? Cut this off if you did and then try it on again. It’s definitely a boat neckline which is going to be higher, but there is nothing that says you can’t change it to suit you.
    I like the shape of the skirt, and if you take in the center section I think that the fit will look better.

    • I did add a SA to the neckline. But it feels super close and not quite wide enough. I also just went back and measured the shoulder and they seem to be about an inch short too, just 3 inches.

  3. I loved the “I have three netflix gathering dust” rationalization! 🙂 Hope you get some of your issues resolved! Me…I haven’t sewn a stitch…my mojo seems to have taken the weekend off too! I will be watching the MLK movies all day today…

  4. I think they draft for a B cup because I always have to do a much larger FBA than for Burda. I agree with Nancy that you should change the neckline a little (if you want to of course)

  5. I just muslined a Patrones maternity top and it seems to fit, well, probably because it is meant to be oversized! I really do like that dress. I have that issue too, gathering dust, LOL.

  6. They definitely draft small in the top. The few Patrones I’ve made I’ve had to size up both in garment size and in boob space. I’m a BWOF 38; I think I was a 42 in Patrones and there was some squashing going on.

  7. I think they draft for a b cup. I’ve had no problem with the things I’ve made. For me, I’m one size different in Patrones than Burda, even according to their size chart. That always puts me making a 38, which is not only one of the in between sizes, but also a size smaller than the usual smallest size, a 40, unless it is a Joven mag, then the smallest is a 38. Don’t forget that Patrones only drafts for every other size, 40, 44, 48. You’d have to figure out 38, 42 or 46.

  8. Hmmm, How about setting the sewing machine in front of the TV, so you can sew while you watch Netflix? tee hee

  9. Patrones goes by Spanish sizes, which -sound- the same as Europena/German sizes like Burda. However they are roughly one size smaller. Ditto for French patterns if you ever get a hold of some, and no doubt the Italians as well.
    Yes, we do have general European standards, good ones even since they include height as well as width measurements. I’ve never seen them on any label, not anywhere in Southern Europe at least. Maybe in another decade??

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