My mom asked me recently (with a bit of alarm in her voice) how often I muslin. Well, the truth is, I only muslin dressy dresses, non Burdas and pants. That’s because those are the things I have the least experience with.
This muslin, is two of three. It’s the now OOS Butterick 6410 from back in 1999 and it’s a formal. I definitely prefer vintage dresses for my formal gowns.
What did I discover? That, like most empire waist dresses, I should add length to the bust. Because it’s pulling the rest of the dress up to cover my bust and causing wrinkles that end at my hips.
It’s not too tight at the hip. Look at it from the side. See, it’s pulling the dress up at the front. Which I wouldn’t have noticed if I wasn’t wearing heels. The dress would have pooled on the ground.
Despite a swayback adjustment of two inches, this could honestly use a touch more. But, truth be told, I think my back is shorter than my front in addition to the swayback.
I also think the neckline is too matronly. See the difference when I tuck it in half an inch on each side? I think this is as simple as gathering the front a bit more.
And, I tried to grade from a 14 to a 16 in the hip. This, though, confirms my thoughts. See the extra fabric kind of jutting out? It’s not hips. It’s my thighs (er, saddlebags) where I have marked in orange. I have a fairly narrow hip curve. My last three garments have looked like this pre- fixing. I need to get better about this grading / adjustment.
So, I need this dress for May 8th. Now that I know what needs to change, I hope to get the garment fabric cut out this weekend and purchase some skirt lining too.
How long did it take? About two hours from start to finish. Personally, well worth the extra time. BTW, the muslin is from IKEA. It’s 60 inches wide and less than $2 a yard. Sadly, it’s not dark brown like the one Joann has, so I apologize that you can see my drawers. Which (besides not having made myself camera ready) is why I cut off my face.