Miss Celie

Pattern Review: Burda Magazine 1-2008-113

This dress is a loooong time coming. Like, super crazy really long. I wanted to make Burda 1-2008-113 since it showed up in previews in December 2007! And, it was TOTALLY worth the wait. What took so long to even start making it? I was obsessed with making it it in a brown twill with red zippers and top stitching. Except, the right fabric never materialized. Then, I decided it would totally work in dark dark denim with the same red details.

The fabric is from Joann’s maybe two summers ago? Cheap too. Like $3 a yard. I washed it three times to get all the overdye out and minimize shrinkage. It’s got a fair amount of lycra in it.

I stuck with the red topstitching using regular thread in the bobbin and top stitching thread in the needle.

I also saved myself a lot of time and heartache by setting up my vintage Morse to tackle top stitching duties. BTW, all my sewing machines are now along the right hand side of my blog.

I used two-tone, double topstitching on the sleeves and hems to mimic a jeans pattern.

Trena talked me out of a similar course on the other seams. It’s funny, I’m all about the gimic. She hates the gimic.

I made a FBA of 1/2 inch by slicing one inch under the armsyce and spreading a la Sandra Betzina’s directions for a princess seam.


I also made a 1 inch sway back adjustment. People, I hate showing photos of my back. LOL. Please note it is purposefully the only photo that will NOT enlarge upon clicking!

These buttons were made a few years ago when I made the Amy Butler Betty Shopper bag. I omitted the bias strips at the back dart, the fabric tabs for the zipper at the pocket, and the shoulder tabs. The pocket directions do seem daunting at first, but if you mark you stitching and placement lines accurately, it shouldn’t be a problem.

I did use pocketing material in the dress. The pockets though, pretty, but kind of impractical.

Or, I have monster hands. They just kind of fit in there snugly. I love the pocket trend. But, are we really *using* the pocket?

So, the thing about this dress is that you should muslin. I ripped this dress apart approximately three times. First, because I messed up the markings in the back. The second time, because I realized I also messed up markings in the front.

The third time, because the neck was gaping badly (see green arrows above) and I wanted to redo the topstitching along the front. I’ve sewn the buttons on now three times. It’s my fault. I’ve been eyeballing them out of laziness! But, I’ll get around to having them sorted out.

Overall, I am THRILLED with this dress. It feels young and flirty  but not silly. I would absolutely make it up again. It kind of goes to show how timeless Burda can be. I have one more project and a couple of gadgets to show before I leave for Montreal on Monday!

55 comments

  1. What a great dress! I love the contrasting red details, it totally makes it!

  2. This could be my favorite Cidell creation of all time – for purely self-serving reasons 🙂
    I can see myself wearing this dress. And when that day comes; that day where i know how to alter any pattern for my shoulders and upper torso, it will come to pass. I will go through all my old Burda mags and sew up every cute dress I see.

    congrats on a super cute and flattering dress!

  3. The dress is lovely and you look fantastic in it. Why don’t you like showing pictures of your back? Before I read your comment, my first thought was “she has a great rear, wish mine looked that good”. Seriously, you have a great a$$.

    • Ahhh! Thanks! Well. It’s huge and hard to fit in regular RTW. So, I forget until I see photos of it, lol!

  4. Super cute dress! I love the two-tone topstitching, the red details and of course those wonderful pockets! Funny how Trena talked you out of the gimic — I have a friend like that as well who’s great because she has opinions and she’s not shy about sharing them.

  5. I love the fit you got in the back, especially since it’s a regular struggle for you. You’ll have to make more of these. As for the pockets, it really wouldn’t be that hard to remake that pocket bag bigger to fit your hands if you want them functional. Just trace a shape around your hand so you know they’ll fit. If you don’t do it for this dress, than for the next one you make since this pattern needs to become a TNT for you. You know I’m all about the TNT pattern.

  6. You should be thrilled with your hard work . . . what a fabulous dress, and it looks terrific on you!!!

  7. This dress fits you so well and looks fabulous. It was worth all the ripping and re-sewing because the fit looks perfect from here.

  9. I Love Love this dress! It’s just so unique, the stiching is great, oh and your back picture is fine:)
    Great job on this dress!

  10. The fit on this dress is AMAZING! But I have to object to your comments about your rear view-you have a beautiful figure! Look closely at the hip and shoulder width in the full back picture-you’re perfectly proportionate.

    This dress was definitely worth all the ripping out you had to do, it really suits your body!

  11. This dress was totally worth all of your hard work! It looks great on you too. Tell Trena I love the top-stitching 🙂

  12. PS-RTW really only fits a select group of people really well, and even that varies decade by decade. I think it’s unproductive to use RTW as a standard by which to judge ones own figure, considering how few people can really get great fit off the rack.

  14. That’s a great dress & it looks fantastic on you! I think it’s one of those timeless pieces that you’ll be able to wear for ages.

  15. Oh that is so super cute! Great fit and I love the top stitching details. Having another machine to handle topstitching is brilliant. (Hmm, now how do I find room to put second sewing machine in my studio?) Worth all the work and wait.

  16. Really cute, versatile dress, and while it would have been lovely in brown, the denim is just perfect!!

  17. Smashing! The dress is just cool, and you look fantastic in it. I think it’s serendipitous that you never found the brown twill because this color looks so damn good on you.

  21. Fabulous dress. You will wear it a lot this summer. I love the topstitching and the zipper pockets. No, I never use pockets. It took me a while to realise this, and that I do not need to obsessively add them to all of my garments.

  23. It was definitely worth the wait because it is fabu on you! You should make it again! And I’m jealous that you’re going to Montreal on Monday…Enjoy!

  26. I think you look great in the dress! Clearly you’ve seen too many models’ backsides. Girls are meant to be curvy, and this dress shows what a great hourglass shape you have. I really love the zipper pockets and the red topstitching. Great job!

  28. I love this dress on you. It’s cute and I think it’s so flattering on you. There’s nothing like an awesome denim dress expecially with such great topstitching! This would look great in black denim and white topstitching! Great job!

  29. Two things (well three)..

    1. pockets in dresses are not for your hands but for tissues, and small things you might want to carry. Very, very cute pockets!
    2. your back view is gorgeous! I was admiring how well the dress suited you and how beautifully shaped you are. And how well fitted the dress is. What’s with not likeing your back photos??
    3. gorgeous, gorgeous dress 🙂

  31. Love the dress – it’s fabulous in the denim and the fit is awesome. I agree with the other comments, it shows off your enviable hourglass figure perfectly. I know you say you love frills and ruffles, but the more tailored garments you make always look so good on you, well done.

  33. Love it! How did you fix the gaping neckline? I have that trouble a lot and I also have a full bust. Hints, tutorial…… 😀

  34. Love this dress in denim. You have used color to accent it into something very special. Looks cute on you too. Noticed your Necchi isn’t on your sidebar- what happened to it.

    • You are right. I was wondering if anyone would notice! I had too many machines that I wasn’t using. So I donated it to a new sewer.

  35. The dress looks wonderful on you. Great fit! I generally don’t really like denim, but I have to say this looks great!

  38. Awesomeness. Love the vintage vibe about it with the more modern cut and great details. Just a cool dress overall. Have fun wearing it!

  39. Very cute dress and the fit is perfect. How did you solve the mishap with the back? Maybe I overlooked your explanation somewhere.

  42. That dress is just so cute and so you. I really love everything about it. I am seeing dresses like this on the PYTs of NYC these days.

  44. GREAT Dress!! Looks so cute on you! You have a good eye for what works.

  46. I love that the bodice is long enough on this pattern to prevent the dreaded pg look. And the way you’ve styled it is great for summer. Very fun

  48. Love the dress! Kudos for being so persistent with the re-dos and adjustments to get a great fit!

  51. Love the dress, it fits you perfectly (as it probably should after ripping it apart 3 times you brave and patient thing) and is really flattering. I never post pictures of my back either though I would if I looked like you.

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