I’m a third through my first project of 2011. I spent most of my Christmas furlough working on a winter coat. There is something to be said for having several days to focus on one project. I’m attempting the September 2006 Burda Trench Coat. I realize the September 2006 trench is hard to distinguish from the half a dozen trench coats they produce annually!
I’m using the most incredible 100 percent wool. It’s still available from Fabric Mart. It’s a ‘Civil War Heather Grey’ from Uruguay.
This Civil War Heather grey 100% Melton wool is dense thick coating from Uruguay. It is heavy weight, has a smooth slightly brushed hand, a wide cone drape, sheds the rain and blocks the wind. This is the ideal winter coat fabric. This would also make a great cape.
I don’t think it’s ‘thick’ but it is ‘dense’. And, it’s a pleasure to sew with!
Truth be told, I’m exhausted from working on it. I interfaced, shaped and pressed so much the last two days I have a blister on my hand!! I didn’t have this fabric when I went to NYC or I would have had it interfaced throughout.
I’m using every tool and trick in the book for this coat.
I interfaced most of the front in addition to chest
Fused a woven back stay
Fused a chest gaurd from weft insertion for shoulder reinforcement
Tricot fusible for the facing, pocketing
Twill tape to shape the shoulders
Made welt pockets
Fused: belt, sleeve loops, epualets, welt pockets, back vent… the list goes on
I also went with two gun flaps instead of one. I like the opposite print on the reverse. Sort of my own version of Burberry!
I cannot believe how much work a coat is!! I’m not even 50 percent done. I still have to do the lining, interlining, sleeves, attach all the loops and tabs plus hemming. Oh, and the vent which I’ve never done before and lining. And the buttons. Oy. Am tempted to wear it with the belt until I can take it to NY for professional buttonholes.
I was thinking I would finish this over the New Year’s furlough but the amount left to do is a bit daunting. And, I seem to have picked up a bit of a head cold. So, I’m going to bag it for the rest of the day and finish my BBC America Marathon. Who knew Law and Order was so much better with British accents?