People. I have a serious problem. I seem to just to REFUSE to acknowledge that I have some little narrow shoulders and need (nay, MUST) start adjusting for them. It’s like how I didn’t do an FBA for ten years.
Allow me to start at the beginning.
This pullover from the November 2012 Burda features a low and wide neckline with cuff sleeves and cuffed waistband. I was drawn to the upstyle casual look of it.
I really liked how the back and front were two different lengths — providing visual interest to something that could otherwise be a bit ordinary.
For this project, I made my usual full bust adjustment and graded from a 38 bust to a 42 at the hips. I really wanted to make sure the pullover wouldn’t ‘cup’ under my tuccas from being too tight.
For this project, I used the last of my $18 a yard Mood Fabrics sweater knits from my October in-store purchase of three. The other similar sweater knit projects became my marine wool dress and an autumnal sweater. I *love* pastel blue. I seriously have over 20 pastel / baby blue nail polishes. I should be ashamed. But, I am not.
Which brings us back to my shoulders. On the model below, you can see that the shoulder seam hangs over her shoulder. I guess that’s fine. But, combined with my narrow shoulders, I find the entire neckline too wide by about one inch and would have happily taken a 1/2 to 1 inch more fabric toward my neck. Oh, also, the pattern says to use binding or something on the neckline. I just stablised with interfacing, finished with my serger and did a turn and topstitch for the neckline.
See how her sleeve is is hanging down from the shoulder a bit? I didn’t stretch out the shoulders by using some bias interfacing along the entire armscye, staytape on the shoulder line and interfacing on the once turned in neckline.
Overall, I’m pretty pleased with this simple top. I’d like to make more in ‘regular’ sweatshirt fabric or even a wool jersey. It would also make a great summer top in a thin knit or silk jersey. It works well with jeans and leggings. I can be casual, but with a nice twist.
In my mind, Liz and I were going to recreate the editorial photo with my bike. But, it was so bitterly cold when I completed the top, that we looked for a cozy indoor spot instead 🙂
I still have the long promised cardigan to finish and post. Things have been so hectic lately!
The material for this top was purchased in part using an allowance from Mood Fabrics for the Mood Sewing Network
I love your new sweater. It looks so comfortable and cute! Like you, I had to acknowledge that I have narrow shoulders. I usually have to make a 1.5″ adjustment. I hate for my shoulder seams to hang off my shoulders.
Yes! This is (on average) what I need to start trimming off. It drives me bonkers every time I sew. Yet, I’m ‘surprised’ when my shoulders are just too long.
I bought a women’s cut Ravens jersey this week. I could have gotten away with a Large youth. But, the shoulders were too long also!
I’m so glad it’s not just me! Every top/blouse I make seems to be too big by miles on the shoulder, but I have so many other adjustments to make for my bust that doing the shoulder just gets forgotten until I put on the finished item and it slides down. HOWEVER-double stick garment tape can help with that, I think they still sell it in most fabric stores. It’s also possible to make small straps that go around your bra strap and snap into place but that’s incredibly fiddly and who wants to put that in everything?
we need to get together some time and I will bring my binders of Style Arc patterns for you to try. They cut their shoulders a little narrower. I don’t need to alter for width (just height), but on burda, I alter for width and height. The big four require me to go completely off-road and re-draft shoulders based on my TNT patterns.
anyhooo, your binding technique looks as good, if not better than the instructions@!
Very nice top and love the setting for your photo shoot! I think the shoulders look just fine since it’s a casual sporty top. i do; however, prefer my shoulder seam more accurate on a dressy blouse/top.
This looks cozy and comfortable, and the fire looks cozy too. The baby blue color looks great on you. This pattern looks kinda perfect for my casual lifestyle.
You too, huh? I have ultra narrow shoulders, so not only do they hang off, but in wovens they cut into my arms and makes it pull tight across the back. 😦 Recently I’ve been trying to figure out the best way to deal with that, but it’s a long way from perfect. I’ll let you know when I crack it though. 🙂
Cute sweater, I really like the hem detail. I know what you mean by sticking to a certain color, for me, that color is unashamedly teal. It’s everywhere here. 😉
I think your top looks great. The colour is perfect on you.
The top really looks great. I tend to think that Burda’s shoulders are a bit on the broad side. I don’t have a problem with rtw tops, but I always have to do a small narrow shoulder adjustment on Burda patterns.
It continues to amaze me how you turn those blah-looking patterns into great-looking clothes! Bravo!
I love the color. What a great, casual top!
Funny you should talk about the narrow shoulder adjustment because I was just thinking the same thing the other day and only because I was measuring a friend I’m making something for and she needs one, too! Interesting how we live in denial, isn’t it? I just got the issue with this top in it and I think I’ll make when come winter. It’s a great casual top. Is there a colour that doesn’t look good on you??
This looks great and very flattering. I need more things like this in my wardrobe – cute, casual, and comfortable.
A perfect Saturday sweater! I love the look on you, even the slightly dropped shoulder. Although I understand your desire to not have it dropped. You’ll figure it out soon, I’m sure.
Now this is perfect weekend wear. Relaxed enough for a sleep on the couch, smart enough for an unexpected knock on the door.
Great comfy/cute sweater! I need one of those in every color. I would love to see a pic tutorial on your binding/serger finishing technique.
This looks cute and comfy… don’t even notice the shoulder issues!
Great top, I don’t think the neckline or shoulders look too wide at all on this style of top – I had to go back and reread your post to make sure I hadn’t missed the bit where you said you had altered it!
This is a great top. Comfortable, casual, chic. Now I want to run off and dig up my Burda back issues. Thanks for the inspiration!
Hey I just saw your cape on Mood’s newsletter. Cool! Nice job.
Hi 🙂 Remember your narrow shoulder adjustment in the future 🙂 An alteration for pre-existing conditions is.. take narrow tucks across the shoulder area. VERTICAL-NARROW tucks to take up the excess fabric. You can adjust up to an inch this way without losing sleeve length or re-adjusting armholes 🙂 You can do a complete shoulder alteration by re-setting the sleeve, this won’t help with your WIDE neckline. I have narrow shoulders and back, full bust and RARELY have time to make my own clothing since I sew for others for a living 🙂 I use the shoulder tuck adjustment on purchased casual tops and it looks fine 🙂 I actually tuck MANY inches on MENS’ XL tees to fit properly 🙂 I have to do it, I LOVE STAR WARS and HARRY POTTER and the clearance ones are usually XL 🙂 Your clothing fits GREAT 🙂 You are doing a fantastic job 🙂
I really like your top! Baby blue is definitely your color too. I downloaded this very top a month or so ago. I must copy it, trace and sew it before it heats up here in Texas.
Such a great piece–simple, but versatile. I do like that hem treatment.
I love this top on you! It is the perfect mix of casual but nice looking. I’m still working on figuring out how to do the right full bust adjustment for me. Any suggestions of good resources, teachers etc?
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