Posted in sewing

Three, Four Times A Lady: BWOF 10-2008-117

While I’m waiting for a slew of wigan samples to make their way to me (thank you!!) I realized I needed a dress to wear to a dinner party last weekend. I figured knit would be fast and easy and with the weather, I knew I needed long sleeve. Enter Burda 10-2008-117.

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I’ve made this pattern twice before and neither version are with me any longer. I’m happy to say I still love it! I love it so much, I cut and sewed a second grey scale version during the week. Sadly for you, two dresses means twice as many photos! Luckily, my friend Liz offered to take both sets of photos 🙂

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So, what did I do differently than the first two times? I decided I liked the collar standing up, so, I interfaced that and just used a shortened invisible zipper at the back (vs down to the hip).

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I also decided I wanted to give the darts from the original design another go and made a one inch FBA. This time. I sewed a 40 this time grading to a 46 in the lower thigh. I ended up taking both dresses in a lot at the waist and hips. I usually hate darts in knits. But, they really worked out well this time for shaping!

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Both cuts of fabric are from my Fabric Mart trip two years ago. I thought the colors would be great for early winter. And, I bought like five cuts of poly knits two weekends ago at Jomar in Philadelphia. So, I really needed to sew some down. I like how in 2012 I said no more poly knits and bought a bunch. And, in 2014 I said no more poly knits, and seriously bought 30 yards of them. I am truly a creature of habit photo IMGP1588_zps0e42eec0.jpgOther than the FBA and sewing darts in a knit, my other big difference was finally getting a chance to use Vilene tape around the neckline, shoulder and armsyce.

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This is the tape that you always see in Burda with a little chain thread on it. As you can see below, when you sew a 1/4 inch seam, your stitch falls perfectly on the chain. Perfect for stabilization!

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Melissa of Fehr Trade was kind enough to bring me some when she visited last year. And, when I went to the Netherlands, I bought several packets of it.

In the second version, I made a bigger swayback adjustment and shortened the shoulder width a bit.

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I love the swishyness of the bubble skirt too. It creates movement in a really interesting way.

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I love these dresses. I guess with four makes, this is officially a TNT for me.

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What’s next? Gift making for the holidays. I want to make some tops for Jordan and I promised to alter his wool three piece suit. That is enough of a gift for anyone. And, will probably keep me busy through December.

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24 thoughts on “Three, Four Times A Lady: BWOF 10-2008-117

  1. More lovely prints! Although I spent way too long thinking the red necklace with the grey dress was actually part of the print and some really clever print placement… Duh. Also, just sharing the love of Vilene bias tape – I buy it by 100m box in MacCulloch and Wallis when I go back to London.

  2. You know, normally I don’t like a bubble hem but it is working for me here! Love these dresses, especially that you made two in coordinating fabrics (and so many pretty details!)

  3. Ha! I say “no more poly!” every time I sew with it, but then I do again anyway. I should really quit though, poly makes me sweat more than normal. 😦

    Cute dresses! I really like the grey one, but I’m kind of a fan of the color grey. 😉 And yes, altering a 3 piece suit should count for like his birthday, Christmas, and anniversary presents–3 pieces, 3 gifts! 😛

    1. That’s exactly why I swear it off every time. They make me sweat more! I washed both of these as soon as I wore them. Hopefully, if I do that every time I can keep them fresh 🙂

      On Mon, Nov 24, 2014 at 11:33 AM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  4. I continue to be both curious and confused about Vilene. First, does it come in both black and white? The close up is white and the photo showing the attached pieces is either black or brown? Also, when in Europe one is able to get this by asking for Vilene? I will be there next year and would like to purchase/try this product. Thank you for shedding some light on this product. Your dresses are adorable! Great fit and use of the fabric design pulled off two beautiful garments.

    1. Yes, in two colors. But, I only found small packets, not like a big roll. I found it at a craft / quilt shop and again in a sewing machine store. I can’t remember the price off the top of my head though. I can take a photo of the packet and send it to you if you think it would be helpful.

      On Tue, Nov 25, 2014 at 7:36 AM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  5. Love your dresses! Since you’ve tried the Vilene do you notice a difference (other than the stitch) between it and stay tapes available here in the US? I’ve always wondered is it a superior product, or just an availability thing? I always want something I can’t have’ LOL.

  6. I traced this pattern years ago when you first made it and I still have never used it, but I have a perfect piece of fabric sitting out at the moment, so now is the time. I love both of these dresses on you. YOu look lovely!

  7. Both are really flattering on you! I love a dropped waist and the bubble twist adds a lot of style. As for the vilene, I bought some on eBay a while back.

  8. I like both dresses and like how different yet similar that they are. I like the dropped waist and the bubble twist on the skirt is something I ought to try.

  9. There’s nothing like TNT patterns; for 2015, it is my goal to add more to my library (versus making something and forgetting after).

    Do you know resources for purchasing the tape you picked up in the Netherlands? I recently redid a vintage dress and when I was taking off the armhole binding, there was a lightweight twill tape inside. It wasn’t as heavy as normal twill tape, and I’ve had a hard time finding it. That trim reminded me of the one above. You can see it in the post below:

    http://www.madalynne.com/living-semi-homemade-holiday-part-1

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