Muslins are so boring to blog! Ugh. But, I wanted to document what I do on this one so I could go back later. And, now after my second muslin, I’m not sure this is the coat for me. Plus, nothing wrong with a little blog filler every now and then.
I decided to muslin Vogue 1320, an Issey Miyake coat. The first time, I cut a 12 and graded to a 14 at my thighs. It was too small overall and the CF weren’t nearly close to meeting after my 1 inch FBA (I’m a 34DDDD/G cup, so 2.5 inches is really the ideal on a Big 4).
Muslin #2. I went up one size to a 14 for the coat, grading to an 18 at the thighs (my widest part). I also made a 2 inch FBA on the princess seams. So, let’s break down all the issues and why I think this might be a wash for me.
The shoulders are tight. They were just as tight in the smaller muslin I made. Ugh, the neck is also way too high. But, that’s because I have the neck of a Nutcracker.
The FBA is actually not giving me more fullness at my apex. It’s all added to the side since the princess seam line don’t run over the bust.
Still need a swayback adjustment and there is too much fabric at the back armsyce.
With Jordan’s help, I cut a horizontal slash at the shoulder that makes it way more comfortable. How meta. You can see my first muslin in my sewing room below on the dress form.
But, this horizontal slash seems to add extra fabric at the back of my arm.
I also did some slashing at the bus apex since I could see the pull lines there ( I think that look on my face is shame. And, I had pins in my mouth).
Here’s what the altered shoulder looks like. I think it’s doable.
Here’s what my current FBA looks like. That two inches in length is definitely right. But, not enough width where it needs to be, at the apex on the right (click to enlarge)
I *think* I need to actually FBA the center front part like a regular FBA so the fullness goes there rather than adding to the curve of the fairly straight side (and remove the extra inch at the curve I added).
But, that leaves me not knowing what to do with the back underarm area.
It does give me range of motion. But, looks like there is just too much fabric there.
Erg. I might muslin again. I might not. I like the coat fine. But, I’m not married to it.
What do you think?