Now that my work is all casual, all the time, I pretty much wear jeans daily. My go-to brand has been Levi’s for the last few years. But, they’ve changed the fabric makeup and cut and I can’t get the jeans that I love anymore. Plus, the ones I bought last year are already destroyed in the inner thigh and feel gross (they can keep their recycled water bottles out of my jeans thankyouverymuch). RTW jeans are now a sad crapshoot of tears, self loathing and contempt.
Which means, it may be time for me to make my own. I have no intimidation about the construction of jeans (I made a not great fitting pair before. The comments in that post are a treasure trove). But, the fitting of them. Ugh.Yet, I’ve been intrigued by the Close Case Patterns Ginger Jeans I’ve seen in the wild. Especially LoveLola’s, Sewmanju and By Gum Golly.
My measurements correspond to a 16 in the pattern and that’s what I traced out. There is no vanity pattern sizing for me! Which reminds me of a friend I was helping sew and she insisted the pattern size was wrong. M’kay. That dress did NOT fit when we were done. One ‘good’ thing about gaining weight (and approaching middle age), my waist isn’t so disproportionately smaller to my hip measurements anymore. But, what I am is still built like a brickhouse. So, I decided to compare the crotch curve of my best fitting jeans with those of the Gingers so I wouldn’t blindly start altering.
Levis line is in green, Gingers in orange and the pencil is the seam line for the Gingers. Both lines on right are to the yoke. (click to enlarge)
I have a huge ass and a severe swayback. Here’s my standard full seat, swayback, opposite-of-thigh-gap pants adjustment. I do these in every pattern line and have gotten some good fit in pants.
Which leaves me to wonder what adjustment do I make to have these fit my tuchus. I think I make the full inner thigh (which also adds some fabric to the front curve which is needed) and swayback adjustments. I’ll wait until I’ve got a muslin to pin out any darts at the waist needed since I’m not as small in the middle (but got much back).
So, um, I guess we all know what I’m doing this weekend. And, if inclined, feel free to weigh in.