Posted in sewing

Ginger Jeans Muslin #1

Thank you for all the helpful feedback and thoughts on the crotch curve for my Ginger jeans. Unfortunately, a full Saturday prevented my from watching the Peggy Sayer’s workshop live. But, i do plan to watch it this week.

Sunday, I worked on my first muslin. I decided to make zero alterations to the pattern just so I could see what I was working with. For this version, I used a khaki denim with stretch from my stash. I think it’s from Joanns a few years ago.

Also, the photo quality isn’t that great. When you ask someone (Jordan) to take photos of your butt, they take it quite literally.

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Let me say that when I put the muslin on initially, I was immediately pleased. I really like the way my thighs look from the front (not like saddlebags). And, there is no weird pulling at the crotch. Plus, the side seams hang straight on me. The front knee wrinkles came after I bent down in these. This fabric has quite a bit of stretch. So, while I would actually want my jeans a hair snugger, my real fabric has less stretch than this. So, I don’t want to play around with the size too much.

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From the side, I think I have some good lift. But, my need for a swayback adjustment is obvious. And, I may need to go down a size in the waist as I made a straight 16.

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From the back, I also still think I’m winning in the rear department. But, I do have some wrinkles around my bum.  The wrinkles at my knees  went away when I rolled up the pants another roll. They are long for me. If I tried these on in the store, I would think they were pretty good. But, because we sew, we can do a little better, right? The question is, are these bad wrinkles under my butt or wearing ease from wearing a slim cut garment.If I had to guess, I think it’s a slight protruding seat issue.  I FaceTimed Trena and we think the undercut wrinkles are wearing ease. But, again, totally open to suggestions!

So, I’m going to make a big swayback adjustment, small protruding seat alteration and go down one size in the waist. Luckily, I have a different cut of khaki with stretch to make these up in.

Whew. Again, overall I’m really pretty happy. I wish I’d done the swayback adjustment before making these. They might have been wearable! Feel free to tell me what you think. You won’t hurt my feelings 🙂

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47 thoughts on “Ginger Jeans Muslin #1

  1. I’ve had a similar experience with Gingers! I compared the crotch curve to a pair of RTW jeans I have that I really like, and the difference was crazy. But I went ahead and made them up anyway, and lo and behold, the crotch curve was pretty good! I too need a sway-back, and a size smaller in the waist. I would chalk the under-butt wrinkles up to wearing ease, but do tell if you manage to make them go away!

    1. As a first muslin I think these are honestly pretty good. I had to shape my waistband quite a bit to get a close fit. It’s hard to say about the wrinkles under your bum…baggy bum would bother me but you need some room right? Firmer denim may give a different result.

  2. Not bad at all. I’m deferring all adjustments to the more seasoned sewers. Your analysis sounds good.

  3. I’d love to see how you do a swayback adjustment. My daughter has more booty than I do and I’d love to learn to fit her. Is it possible to remove the waistband and recut the back yoke to incorporate the swayback adjustment and rescue this pair. They really do look good.

  4. Looking at the pictures, the only thing that looks too big is the waistband. Looks like you need one that’s a lot more contoured than this one. It’s sticking out at the sides as well as the back. The yoke might need a little taken out but you could probably pinch that out at the center back seam. I’d pinch out a bunch of darts in this waistband then remove it and trace it out to make a new pattern piece, smoothing out the angles as you go. If you have some more fabric to cut out a waistband, I think you could totally make this wearable. The wrinkles under the butt are definitely wearing ease. If they were not there, when you sat down, you would be showing plumbers crack:)

  5. I saw the re-play yesterday afternoon (silhouette webinar) and really liked it. She showed how to make a single welt pocket and the fly front. Another resource for when I’m sewing garments.
    Your pants look fine – you covered the waist sizing adjustment for your next muslin.

  6. I’m not a pants-fitting guru, but the only obvious things that I see here are the swayback and that they need to be shorter overall. I know that I’d be happy with a pair of RTW pants that looked like this on me. Maybe doing a small alteration for a full quad, if you’re going to really fine-tune?

    1. Hmm, full quad. I remember seeing an alteration for this on Sewing Divas and maybe even tried it once. I’ve had these legs forever and it’s the main reason I don’t wear knee length shorts. My legs look like tree trunks in them!

      On Sun, Jul 26, 2015 at 5:58 PM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  7. They look pretty good, but I think I’m going to have to disagree with other commentors on the under-butt wrinkles. From the side view, it looks like excess fabric is pooling on that part of the curve. With stretch fabric, this might become more exaggerated with wear too. IMO the fullness should be moved up higher in the curve. Have you thought about shaping the waistband?

    1. Jen L – I know I’m butting in (no pun intended-lol), can you explain what you mean by ‘the fullness should be moved up higher in the curve’? I am a beginner sewist and still learning.

      1. I think this is difficult for more than just beginners. In my case, I need more fabric on the “mid butt” area and less below that. I reshape the lower back crotch curve to take out the excess, and add it in to the area I need it. Hard to describe this with words, actually.

        1. Like shaving the curve off the bust apex and moving it. I get it. And, that makes sense too.

          On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 4:11 PM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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    2. Thanks, Jen. I tried on another pair of RTW jeans this a.m. I do have some wrinkles under the butt. But, they are more centered so you might be right. I’m not positive I know what you mean, but think I do!

      On Sun, Jul 26, 2015 at 6:01 PM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  8. I think these could be salvaged-they’re just a tich too big all over, I think, but as you said the fabric has a lot of stretch so that’s probably to be expected. You COULD possibly maybe cut the waistband into 4 pieces-center back to side, center front to side, on left and right sides, and cut them at an angle on the seamline to give yourself more waist shaping, if you don’t have enough fabric to recut and make a curved waist band.

    1. I love a four piece waistband so much. It’s really my favorite because I can get a much better fit. I do actually have enough to recut the waistband. Which, I will do in two parts, interface and use that to pin out the yoke and get a closer waist fit. They are definitely a hair big and will likely stretch. But, I’m trying to account for variances of fabric. I suspect my final denim might only be 1 percent stretch vs the 2 percent recommended.

      On Sun, Jul 26, 2015 at 6:03 PM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  9. Fanatstic! If these jeans work out for you, I might consider adopting this pants pattern. I also have a huge butt, and it’s nice to know that these don’t need too much in the way of alterations!

  10. I once made a pair of jeans with sketchy fit, but was able to make a horizontal tuck/fold in the yoke near the lower seam and then topstitch the seam allowance to make it look “on purpose” to an untrained eye to rend the pants wearable, albeit, just in the garden and around the house.

    You seem to be on the right path, tho!! Good luck!!

  11. Lift… saddlebags… this read like a bra making post. Almost! LOL

    I’m no expert with pants, but the wrinkles look like ease. Just like with bras – test, test, test and muslin, muslin, muslin. Repeat if necessary 🙂

    1. Looks like ease to me, too. Remember that you may do more in these pants than stand very still while Jordan stalks you with a camera. Flesh moves when you walk and sit and squat. And anyone who seems to be examining your buttocks that closely at work or in a grocery store is either not really looking at your arse, or is seriously creepy.

  12. Kudos on your seriously impressive quadriceps! I think you can get rid of the drag lines between your F and R thighs by slash and spreading a bit to add to the F and remove length to the B. You don’t need to make another muslin. Just sew a dart across your back thigh and cut along the front thigh. Note how far you need to spread on the F.

  13. Lots of good fitting going on… I wonder if I’m seeing/saying the same thing as BMGM about the front thigh/under butt fit…
    I see a slight pull of the side seam to the front just at your quads.this might be pulling the back up and thus causing some of the wrinkling. What if you slashed and spread a little more at the front thigh? That might allow the back to fall freer and hang up less.
    I’ll be honest, I have a tendency to over-fit. So I fight the knee jerk urge to take in and make myself try to think of where I might add to release pulls instead. If that makes sense?

    1. I’m really leaning back to a full inner thigh alteration. I refound this post from Debbie Cooke http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com/2008/01/full-inner-thigh-alterations.html And, I think I’m going to try the Fast Fit Knock Knees alteration. The good thing about these being ‘not too bad’ is once I get the waist sorted, I feel good trying a few different alterations. I just need a limitless supply of good denim!

      On Sun, Jul 26, 2015 at 7:43 PM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  14. Here are three links for the Silhouette Pattern Media Center archives. Peggy deals with pants/jeans fitting in these webcasts. If you don’t want to watch the first 15 minutes of questions and answers you can move ahead.
    http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_07_29_2013.htm
    http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_10_14_2013.htm
    http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_04_29_2013.htm

  15. Looking pretty good for a first pass. You have identified the major issues which will make the next try infinitely better. Avoid over fitting, but I think this brand looks good for your body shape. Like you already said, if you got that in RTW you would come away very happy.

  16. I agree that the wrinkles are a combo of wearing ease and needing to add a little more front thigh room. Sometimes full thighs don’t have enough fabric in the front, so they steal it from the back and it makes weird wrinkles. (Ask me how I know!)

    When I make jeans I usually add a dart to the middle of the back yoke, a center back seam to the waistband (if it doesn’t already have one), and take out little tiny darts out of the back waistband pattern piece. It makes it much more curved and completely eliminates the gaping.

  17. These looks great! With all your fit fretting I was worried it was going to be much more of a disaster, haha.I think you’re on the money about fit adjustments. I think wrinkles under the bum are needed for sitting ease but there seems to be a little excess just under your cheeks. Let me know how you resolve that. The only advice I found for this “protruding seat” was a weird fisheye dart taken out from under the bum, but I’m sure there is a better way…. Oh, and it looks like you could maybe add a little more curve to your WB as well.

  18. Butt looks good. You know what you need for the yoke & waist. I agree that there are drag lines at knee level almost creating a fold of fabric there. Also below the knee, the side seam line appears to twist to the back a bit. That could resolve w/ a muscular thigh adjustment. If not, could be your muscular calves borrowing some of the fabric from the front. I would sacrifice these, and slash & spread like BMGM wrote. These Ginger Jeans are going to look fab on you in denim. You’re close!

    1. Do I have muscular thighs? I never think of myself as having them. But, right now I just like that anyone thinks I have muscular anything!

      On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 12:38 PM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  19. I made a full seat adjustment on mine and my ass has never fit so well in jeans, lol. I think you could get rid of some of the wrinkles with slightly more room to groove back there.

  20. From the looks and your measurements i do believe we are the same size along with the same sway back. I don’t feel so lonely now, lol
    awesome job by the way. They’re gunna be great.!

  21. Throwing my 2 cents…the center front length looks a little high compared to side seams. Maybe 1″ at CF to nothing at SS? You’d have to reposition the pockets though. Booty looks great!

  22. This pattern is better than I thought it would be. Looks like you will be in the good once you make your alterations. Can’t wait to see the results!

  23. Looks good. Take in the waist and leave the rest (except for hem length, of course).

  24. I completely agree with you. The fit looks very good. The wrinkles in the back look like wearing ease to me. I tried to remove the excess on a pair of shorts once and then they just felt weird – like I had short-sheeted my ass. Your planned alterations all sound like they will do the trick. Please can you show what you do for the “small protruding seat” alteration? I think I need to add that to my bag of tricks so it would be great to see how you do that. Andrea’s comment about muscle thigh adjustment might be worth looking into now that I take a second look at the side view (I have this issue as well). Can’t wait to see the final product!

  25. Not a bad first fit, I think you are dead on with the adjustment you mention. Theirs a sew-along in November for the Ginger jeans I’m going to give it a try. You encourage me to start my muslin, wish me luck.

  26. Helloooo,
    Saw your post on Vogue pattern 8120 and loved it! Your mom is beautiful and so lucky to have such a wonderful daughter. I would love 2 of those blouses, but I don’t sew or know of any seamstresses in the Dallas/Fort Worth area. Would you be available to make one in white? I hope you say yes 🙂 Just let me know. Many thanks!

  27. I think redrafting that waistband to a contour waistband (probably mentioned above right?) will help. I made this pattern to great results and I’ve got the same fit issues you do. The fit looks close and will depend on your “good” fabric. These will be great!

  28. Wow, I agree with “Themateriallady”…these jeans look great for a first pass! I do believe we tend to sometimes overfit because we can. You look great in these jeans and they do look RTW! If they were mine, I would adjust the waist, hem them and call it a day! Of course wearing them with MUCH pride too because I made them! Beautiful work young lady!!

  29. You really do have a lovely caboose, and the fit is great, as we all know how difficult it is to do a full rear adjustment. (I have done this for clients, but my rear is practically non-existent), The pants look good, but, when it comes to pants, more important than looks by FAR, is what happens when you sit down and stand back up. Bend over, make the movements you would make in your daily life, and then you will truly know if you have fit the pants perfectly for photography, or for LIFE.

  30. I ask your forgiveness for my off-topic entry. I really need to thank you for sharing your pics and info regarding Stadham Corp in Baltimore, MD. My Kenmore sewing machine made me mad (for the LAST TIME!) on Tuesday, I found you and your blog treatment of Stadham on Wednesday (yesterday). I drove to Stadham (for the first time) and purchased a new Juki today. Love the the place: friendly service, expertise, and patience). It’s everything you described. By the way, I bought that pressing horse you pointed out in your photo. Sorry, sort of. My sincere thanks. (P.S. I am also a machine knitter. Hope your lessons go well).

    1. LOL! Congrats on the new machine and on the pressing horse! I bought the one that’s like a supersized version of Dritz pressing horse. But, I still want the curved one that’s big enough to be a small table top ironing board. Which Juki did you get? I REALLY love Juki and would love one myself. But, I em, have four sewing machines already.

      And, thanks re: knitting lessons. They are going really well! I’m taking a teeny break now to get caught up on my lessons and do some sewing 🙂 I can’t wait until I’m actually making clothes for ME on them!

      On Thu, Aug 20, 2015 at 9:39 PM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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      1. I bought the Juki Exceed HZL 600. It should be delivered early next week. I also decided to give myself an industrial model for Christmas. I’m as excited as a child to get the two home, where they belong. I feel your frustration about creating for yourself. When I first got into machine knitting, I wore my outfit to work and was literally accosted by a colleague, who made me sell it to her (practically) right off my back! I did manage to get her to agree to let me clean it first. And with that my custom clothing business was born. After a few years I shut that down because my clients were dressed beautifully, while I had nothing to wear! BTW, you’ll likely have more than one knitting machine before too long. No, really.

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