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Revisiting Jalie 2908: Women’s Stretch Jeans (and Fly Template Winner)

I almost forgot about the Stitch Along Fly Front Guide!  The winner is JenL! I’ll email you for your mailing address.


I’ve been getting a lot of wear from my two-tone Closet Case Ginger jeans. I probably wear my pair three times a week at least. But, the underbutt wrinkles were making me sad.  Based on how much I like having hand crafted denim, I decided to revisit the Jalie 2908 Women’s Stretch Jeans of yesteryear. I really loved how the Jalie 2908 made my butt look. I just hated the front.

When I first made them in 2009, I sewed a size W. This time, I sewed a size BB based on my measurements. Well, first I sewed a size Z and felt like a sausage in a meat packing factory. Then, I went up two sizes to my *actual* measurements and made a BB.

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So, overall, I’m pretty happy with the Jalie 2908. I think I have fewer under butt wrinkles than I did with the Ginger jeans and that’s a great place to start.

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Alterations / Changes

I slimmed down the bootcut to something akin to a very slight flare. I can’t say I used any fancy metric to do this.

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Tapered the yoke to make a swayback adjustment and drafted a countour waistband from the included straight waistband. I will say on the first size that was too small, I used the Ginger Jeans waistband and it was beautiful.  At three inches, the Jalie waistband is most def too wide for my taste. For my next version, I’ve curved it a bit more and reduced the width for a 1.5 inches finished width.

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This is a Marc Jacobs denim from Mood . I kept thinking this fabric would be too light for jeans. But, I’m an idiot because it’s perfect.  The recovery in them is AMAZING. I’ve had them on all day and they haven’t really bagged out.  I bought enough to make four pairs from this cut. But, I’ll only get two as I made one too small and managed to miscut a LOT. I really need to not sew after 10 p.m.

Here are my changes for my next version:
I’m going to shorten the front crotch length. I have that unattractive fold of fabric at the crotch. I took a little fish eye dart to the finished jeans to see how it would look and the fold went away completely. I figured this out from Marji’s comment on my post six years ago!

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Make an ‘Inward Knee Rotation’ / ‘Knock Knee’ adjustment. I’m using the Sandra Bettina method from her book Fast Fit. There are several ways to make this alteration. I’m only doing 1/2 inch as I have NO idea how this will all turn out.  Hopefully give me more fabric length at the inseam and reduce those knee winkles. See how they are pulling up at the inseam? I talked about this with Mrs. Mole at Fit For A Queen.

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I’ll also curve the waistband a bit more at CB (it gapes a smidge) and reduce waistband width.

After my next pair (which are 75 percent sewn and from the same material), I’ll evaluate (and post here) and consider making the forward/ muscular thigh adjustment. I really prefer to make one alteration at a time so I can see what happens.

So, here’s what I concluded for myself between the Gingers and the Jalies. For my body, I like the front of the Gingers and the back of the Jalies. Jalie pocket placement for my butt are perfect.  The Ginger waistband is great,  the sillouhette (skinny) preferred and the instructions overall are fabulous. But, since my rear view is what I care most about, and the things I like from the Ginger are easier to transfer to the Jalie, I’m going with Jalie 2908 as my jeans pattern.

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18 thoughts on “Revisiting Jalie 2908: Women’s Stretch Jeans (and Fly Template Winner)

  1. Yup, I think I like the Jalies better on you, too. And shortening the front crotch length, which I agree will fix the front, is an easy alteration. Like you, I’m not one to re-invent the wheel for fitting–if my muslin isn’t promising enough, I move on to trying another pattern. I’m looking forward to seeing how your next iteration of these turn out!

  2. I can say it looks very great on u, it a little loose in front all I can say it looks very nice, great job.

  3. Definitely the Jalie fit is better – I totally agree on your assessment. I am also thrilled about the Stitch Along Fly Front Guide – thank you! It will certainly be used!

  4. Oh yeah! I can definitely see why you like the rear view of these. Funny how that’s the most important part–even though we can’t see it. 😉 Thanks for clarifying what you did and didn’t like about each pattern–I’m enough of a nerd that I love that sort of thing.
    And isn’t it amazing how we lie to ourselves about pattern sizes? The tape measure doesn’t lie (and neither does my hubby who’s the one using it!), but I still have a hard time with picking a size that seems “larger” than I feel like it should be. Which is absurd and always ends up biting me in the ass, but sometimes I can’t help myself.

  5. These are better in the butt. Is it possible to marry the jalie back with the Ginger front?
    Whatever–cuz these are awesome. I’m impressed.

    1. It might be. I think the Jalie jeans require more stretch in the draft. Which may or may not matter. But, I don’t need to because I know the fix for the Jalie front, shortening the front crotch length. I had a little of the same problem with the Gingers, just not as pronounced on the Jalies.

      On Tue, Sep 8, 2015 at 8:07 AM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  6. I think these look great! I can’t wait to see if you can get rid of those last pesky wrinkles with your next adjustments. I’m diving down the rabbit hole of pants fitting and my brain wants to explode. These already look fantastic!

  7. Wow, these are SO much better than the Gingers. My theory re: Gingers is that they only work when there isn’t a smidgen of ease in them. The Jalies have a much more flattering fit and overall look. Really nice! I do agree with you about the waistband – it’s a bit too tall. Also – wondering if your yokes could do with being a tad shorter? I think those horizontal wrinkles you have on the yoke pieces mean that the shaping is not quite in the right place, or there is too much fabric there. I have similar “collapse” on my jeans (unblogged). These look great. Make lots!

    1. Thanks! I’totally agree that the yokes need to be a little shorter. They also have more shaping to them and when sewn, aren’t ‘flat’. So, that’s why I lean to taking them in a touch. I’ve already topstitched my next pair and I’m too lazy to unpick all that. But, on the ones I’ll do after, I need to figure out that tweak. And, blog your jeans 🙂

      On Wed, Sep 9, 2015 at 10:07 AM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  8. Mrs Mole is a wonderful teacher – I have consulted with her numerous times, she always helps me think about the fit issues with such clarity. Your jeans are looking fab. I agree with the approach of 1 change at a time, the better to see the difference each makes. Keep up the good work!

  9. Great fitting jeans! I like the Jalie pattern as well and have never used the Ginger pattern yet, so I can’t compare the two. (I do own the Ginger pattern). Based on your review though, I’m not sure I want to bother with the Ginger pattern. We’ll see.

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