Every year I say I’m going to make a coat, then I don’t. I started one in 2014 and the muslin was a disaster. I sourced wigan from you back then and didn’t move forward. Last year I pin fit the Cascade Duffle by Grainline and lost steam and time. I also muslined a Burda coat I’d long loved. But, it was a horror on me.
Friends, I have five (possible seven) cuts of wool coating and four cuts of rain coating sitting in my stash. And, when I say sitting, I mean stacked in corners, on chairs and crammed on shelves.
So, within the next year I’d like to make three coats. A camel wrap coat, a navy anorak/ rain coat with a hood and a plaid duffle coat. I figured the plaid duffle coat would be hardest, so I’m starting with that.
I’m going to document my process here. Mostly to help anyone else out who decides to tackle this with a similar body type. Secondly to have an old fashioned blog post. I post so much more on Instagram now. But, I miss long documentations for reference. For the record, I don’t think Grainline is particularly friendly to my body type: busty and booty. But, I love, love, love duffle coats and have never found one in store that would fit across my chest. And, as this is not particularly fitted may still work!
Based on the finished measurements and wanting enough ease to wear a sweater underneath, I’m going with a 14 grading out to an 18 at the hip/ upper thigh.
- FBA: 1″ darted FBA to the garment and a 1″ princess seam FBA to the lining and facing.
- There is a lot of ease in this garment. But, I really like things to fit as well as possible. And, on other Grainline wovens I’ve made had terrible draglines without a FBA.
- Lengthen center front / zipper placket 1″ and interfacing piece
- Done because of the FBA
- Lengthen two-piece sleeves and sleeve lining 1″
- I like a really long sleeve and read a few reviews that thought the sleeves were short
- Widen bicep / arm and lining 1″
- I find the Grainline sleeve crazy narrow. And, when I measured there was barely an inch of ease.
- Merge bottom and front bodice together for front and back
- I’m working with a plaid fabric and have no desire to match plaid there
- Merge / overlap the hem facings for the front and back
- Nice touch. But, I don’t need it for this.
- Narrow shoulders .25″ on garment and lining
- I was gonna do a full half inch but decided I wouldn’t mind if I had shoulder pads
- Swayback adjustment .75″ on garment and lining.
- For the garment I took it from the shoulder to eliminate the need for a center back seam.
- For the lining I took it from the waist with a horizontal overlap/ dart and made sure to true the hem.
I usually trace indie patterns. But, with 40 damn pieces I threw caution to the wind. That said, I would suggest buying a copy shop version of this pattern. That way, if you need to recut a pattern piece you can pretty easily.
Above is my pin fit. I also tried it out on my body and it’s pretty good I think. Here are my general steps over the next month or so
- Cut lining, sew lining, hope it fits!
- Mark pattern for plaid placement
- Layout and cut garment fabric from one layer of fabric
- Interface garment fabric and make back stay
- Construct main garment
- Attach lining
- Finish by Christmas. I know that’s so far away. But, I don’t have as much hands on sewing time as I used to.
That’s it for now. I’ll work on the lining and keep you posted.