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Burdastyle 2-2011 #118: Dior Dart Linen Dress

Yellow Dior-2

I’d had my eye on this pattern since it came out back in February 2011. This year, I’m sewing from a plan. Well, I wrote up a list of all the patterns or fabric combos I wanted to make and this was at the top of my list.

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I’ve always liked the seaming in the front and the cut on sleeves. At the time, I also liked the boatneck. But, have come to realize that doesn’t work great on me. So, I lowered the neckline an inch.

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The dress isn’t your typical sack. The Dior darts and princess seams provide some visual interest and fit around the bust. And, I wanted something easy I could wear on vacation to California.

There’s a note on this pattern to see the color section of the magazine for tips on sewing “Kimono Sleeves”. If you have the US version of this magazine, said color section does not exist. Luckily, Ann is Belgium sent me photos of her French instructions. And, I have to say I needed them. I don’t read French, but the photos are really helpful. Not that I got mine looking good πŸ˜‚.

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The problem with mine is I tried to be fancy and use different seam allowances for different parts. I think for the sleeves to go well, you need to use a consistent seam allowance on the undersleeve, front, back and side piece.

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Sizing: I made a 44 grading to a 50 at the thigh (outside of the pattern range). I also made a swayback, protruding seat and 1.5″ full bust adjustment. To make a FBA on the Dior Dart I used this helpful information from Nancy K and made a Y alteration.

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I ended up shortening the dress by 5″ to closer match the model. I think the cut line is marked incorrectly for the pattern and the first line (marked for a different model) is the correct hemline.

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That said, this is about one inch too short for me. Too short in part for comfort. But, also too short proportion wise. I think it would look best a little longer. I’ll still wear it though! But, next time will add a little length back.

This dress doesn’t photographs in a ‘flattering’ way. But, honestly, it’s comfortable, I love the color, I like how it fits and love it. I want to make it up again in a plaid I’ve had in my stash for YEARS and I’ll add a few inches back to the hemline.Yellow Dior-6

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39 thoughts on “Burdastyle 2-2011 #118: Dior Dart Linen Dress

  1. If you aren’t happy with the length, is it possible (or desirable) to add a band to the bottom?

    1. I’m just too lazy to add an inch back. I’ll just make my next one longer. I’ll still wear this one too.

  2. Brave of you to even think about plaid with princess seams! I await with anticipation. Cheers.

    1. I know. I must be crazy, lol! But, I’ve had the fabric is my stash for a long time and kept thinking it would be really cute as a sheath dress. And, I spent so much time tinkering with this pattern I figured I should put it to one more use.

  3. I think you look lovely in your new dress! That yellow is awesome and the style screams comfort. Have fun in California!

  4. I love it! The linen was a good choice. I hope you have fun out here in California! There is a lot to do. Are you going fabric shopping?

    1. I’m not sure yet. It’s a family trip with my in-laws 😭

  5. the color looks great on you. I’m not a fan of linen – I just can’t deal with wrinkles and don’t like how they look, although I see a lot of cute things made with linen. more editorializing – I think those Dior darts only work on fabrics that can be molded and steam shaped a bit, such as wool. so that they aren’t so prominent. In fact they annoy me in general and I mostly avoid them πŸ˜‰ I think you could find a better pattern to use for plaid…

    1. I haven’t sewn with linen in a few years. But, Baltimore is so ridiculously humid it’s a godsend. I tend to wash it three or four times and can live with a slightly rumpled look. I just finished up a pair of linen pants and can’t wait to try them on! I do always fall in love with a crisp linen look. But, realize that’s just not a reality.

  6. I think this looks fun and summery and perfect for a holiday. The length looks good on you (after all, you are a swimsuit model now: you can wear anything!) but at the end of the day you have to feel comfortable. Enjoy California!

    1. Ha! Thanks, Manju! In part the length issue is I wear a lot of bike shorts in the summer to help with possible chafing. This one makes it a little challenging. But, I do like the color and I feel really cute. Just conscious about the length. We are ten days away from leaving town and I CANNOT wait! Beaches, fish tacos and siteseeing.

  7. Great dress perfect for summer. This tone of yellow looks great on you. I think Palmer and Pletsch’s ffrp has a tutorial for doir darts

    1. Yes! In Nancy’s post I think she said it was in the updated version of their book. I need to put it on my list (I have one for the early 90s).

  8. I think you’re wrong…I think this dress photographs well on you! I also like that you let someone else take pictures of you because these not only highlight the dress but your beauty as well. This is the perfect summer dress for the hot, humid, steamy days to come and I hope you do make it again. Also loved the line about sewing with a plan…it’s working for you and so happy that it is.

    1. Planned sewing is going so well for me! I don’t have project indecision and I just plow through. I can also make up all these garments I never got around to.Thanks, Carolyn! And, you’re right. We have some hot, humid, steamy days to come.

    2. And, huge shoutout to my friend Stephanie who helped me photograph a stack of garments last week. I can finally blog again, lol! She and I work much better together than Jordan and I for photos.

  9. Sorry if you have multiple copies of this comment, I kept getting a server error using my wordpress account.

    Could you add a hem facing to make it a little longer? Then you get the extra couple of inches you want, and still can keep the deep hem you have now.

    These sorts of garments are always difficult for me–on one hand, they make me look bigger than I am, but on the other, summers here are MISERY!!!! And at least something like this helps keep you cool and comfortable. I hemmed and hawed over a Lekala blouse for the same reason, but ultimately comfort won. Also, you need more yellow in your life–it looks fantastic on you!

    1. I totally need more yellow in my life. The two times prior I’ve sewn it I promise to wear more. Then, don’t πŸ˜„ When I’m buying fabric again it’ll definitely be on the list!

      And, yes. I don’t think I look great on this. But, it’s so comfortable and cool! Comfort should always win out as long as we aren’t sloppy, eh?

      1. I disagree-i think it looks great on you. So nice, I bought the pattern. Can’t wait to see it in plaid.

        1. Oh, awesome! I hope you like it as much as I do. I wore it yesterday and it’s definitely a winner! The plaid version I have in mind will have solid panels at the side to save me from plaid matching.

  10. Looks cool and comfortable. Hope you show the plaid dress when finished!

    1. I’m so backlogged now with posting projects πŸ˜€ Luckily, a friend took several photos for me so I should have at least a month of weekly posts coming up.

  11. LOVE this! I’m looking forward to the plaid as well. I just finished a tunic last night from a pattern I tweaked hard and it reminded me how much I love to sew practical things that I can wear during Alabama’s sultry-hot summers. And was that you I saw over on Cashmerette for Ipswitch Swimsuit? Looking good!!!

    1. I too am now just a big fan of clothes / patterns I can get a lot of wear from. We spend so much time tweaking it to fit us best it seems wasteful to move on to something else. Also, as much as I hate winter I also hate the humidity of the east coast πŸ˜•. What tunic? I’m hoping to make one next month and haven’t settled on a pattern yet.

      1. I have a ridiculous number of tunic patterns!! I’m hosting (in a very slipshod way) a SAL on the forum on PR called “12 Tunics in 12 Months”. The first page of posts has a number of links to various tunic patterns….really I probably have 50 tunic patterns & the tunic bible and have drafted my own kurtas that I wore in India some years ago…….

        1. Thank you for this heads up! I went looking through the thread. Originally I was going to do a standard sort of Tori Burch tunic. But, after looking through the postings I changed my mind. I found a more fitted Burdastyle that I really think will work for me!

  12. You say it doesn’t photograph well, but I was immediately struck by the picture you posted on Instagram. it looks perfect, it suits you really well, shape, length, colour ! So great. Congrats.
    And spoil glad the pictures I sent you of the diagram of the kimono sleeves helped you ! πŸ€—πŸ€—πŸ€—

    1. Thank you so much, Anne! I actually am very cheeky and have another question / favor! Does the BS book have a diagram or chart dor their pants? Like something with the crotch line, hipline? I’m wondering if thier petiting chart corresponds or if they possibly did something more detailed on the book.

  13. I used to make most of my clothes but I’ve stopped now. I bought a pattern at the Paducah quilt show from a blogger and it’s similar to your dress. I detest boat necks and have changed my neckline to mostly V neck. I have a really nice knit I will use. Your yellow linen dress is great.

    1. Your dress sounds so comfy, especially in a knit. I think v-necks tend to work better on more people too. Good luck with your return to garment sewing!

    1. Thank you! I have no idea why I don’t wear more yellow. I’ve only had about four in 20+ years of making my own clothes.

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