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A Modified Cashmerette Montrose Top

Before we begin, my apologies for the poor quality of the photos. I loaned my SLR to a friend traveling with her family and my Pentax point and shoot with remote control stopped working a few months ago. I’m using a borrowed point and shoot camera on a timer and it focused on everything behind me in all 200 photos I took. These were the least offensive of them.

Montrose -58-2

A few months ago a busty student asked me about making the Grainline Scout Tee — a woven tee shirt. I told her if she hated darts and her breasts then go right ahead. A week later Chasmerette released the Montrose Top — a woven tee shirt with darts that can accommodate up to an H cup. Clearly, I spoke this into existence.  And, I’m so glad I did!

Montrose -30-2

I made up my version in a lovely woven vintage Japanese print gifted to me over ten years ago from Sue V. in Los Angeles. Her Japanese – American neighbor was having a yard sale and she posted a few yards for me. This fabric has been waiting for just the right project and this was it. The simple garment shape really allows the print to shine. After posting on Instagram I learned the prints aren’t balls of yarn, but Japanese temari balls.

Montrose -89

For my version, I sewed a 14G/H, modified the sleeve to a bell shape and added a 2″ exposed facing at the neckline. Since I made this two months ago, I’ve sewn with a few more Cashmerette patterns and find my sizing with a 43″ full bust is best in a 14E/F.

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2″ exposed facing

Montrose -1

This is also the pattern where I learned I need to make a full seat and additional swayback adjustment in Cashmerette patterns. A swayback alone would take care of the folds at my waistline. But, it wouldn’t help the hem from getting caught on my protruding seat. That requires more length and some width at the back hip.

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I finished my insides with French seams. When combined with this facing treatment the inside is almost as beautiful as the outside.

Montrose -98

While this pattern is very basic, it throws open the door of woven shirt possibilities. It’s a good base for adding design touches where a lot of the hard work is done for you in the bodice department. I can’t wait to play around with it some more.

Montrose -14-2

21 thoughts on “A Modified Cashmerette Montrose Top

  1. This is lovely! I love the fabric and your modifications. Yes, you must play around with this. It would be so much cooler than a knit tee shirt in the summer heat. I am looking for a similar pattern that will fit me. This pattern line is just a smidge too large for me, and I have avoided the scout tee because I can’t imagine a woven tee without darts either!

    1. I thought I might be able to get away with sizing down on this one. But, I skipped the back opening and I think it would be too challenging to get in and out of otherwise. I wore it yesterday in a sweltering mid 80s and high humidity and was much cooler than a regular tee. And, felt more put together too.

  2. I adore this exposed facing. I’ve been thinking about using it ever since you posted the in-progress top on IG. Really love the mods on this one and the fabric is beautiful.

    When I did the Fabric Mart contest, the first challenge used the Scout tee. Let me tell you…I made my top and FBA’d adding a dart…and after I finished that top that pattern went straight in the recycling bin. No. Thank. You!

    1. I mean, seriously. I like a lot of Grainline aesthetic. But, those patterns aren’t made for me. Not having to start from scratch makes a huge difference.

  3. The shirt is perfect. I love the color and pattern. Please how would you make longer so as Not to ride up over our seat. Would you leave sides open? do a hi-lo? or what? Pegeth

    1. Hi! I tried to do a google search to see if there was a resource I could point you to and didn’t see one. I’ll have to do a tutorial at some point. It’s a new to me alteration that has really helped me with fitting my tops.

  4. This looks great on you. The color and print are perfect for you. I need to order this top. I just spent a the day, it’s now 3:30 pm and maybe I have a decent top. What a pita. My problem with Cashmerette is that the styles aren’t very stylish. I do like the changes you made. Food for thought.

    1. I get where you coming from! They don’t always inspire awe upon initial viewing. I kind of approach them as bases for something else. I’m still surprised by how much I like the Webster dress / top and this Montrose. I will say that I think this one works best in big bold prints. It really lets the fabric shine. I have a few other ideas for this pattern base. But, I just need more time in the day!

  5. I am so glad you blogged this. I am so happy you shared some photos with me in IG. I tried to make one and it looked terrible. I will try again.

    1. Well, if I’m being totally honest I think fabric selection here makes a big difference! This pattern lets the print shine. And, now that I’m thinking about it, I did make a forward shoulder adjustment because it kept riding up on me. I also think the exposed facing brings interest to the neckline and the redrafted sleeve makes the garment more of a statement piece. That said, it had the best bones! And, I’m not one for a non fitted garment either, lol!

  6. I love this pattern too for all the same reasons! Love your Montrose…the fabric, neckline facing and flouted sleeves make it look so different! I made mine in a linen, added a bit of a flounce to the sleeve and instead of the keyhole opening I inserted a zipper. LOVE this top! I’m sure I’ll be making many more in all sorts of different ways.

    1. Now that’s a great idea! I wouldn’t mind a slightly slimmer version. I think the hip draft for me is a little wide. But, I was nervous about making it too small and didn’t want to do the key hole. A back zipper would be excellent. Thank you for the idea! I also now have three new cuts of linen that are destined for loose fit summer tops.

  7. I have to make the same bootie adjustments on Cashmerette patterns! I usually add an inch of length to the back of skirts as well. Glad to see your version is so cute, because I’m making one soon!

  8. Great looking top – a woven tee that has both shaping and no need for fastenings is a brilliant pattern to have in your arsenal! I love the print too, how lovely to have finally found a perfect use for it.

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