Posted in sewing

Unfancy Tobacco Linen Pull On Pants: Burdastyle 4-2011-139

While I’ve made my fair share of pants and jeans in the past, I can’t say they are my favorite to put together. I have a bit of a struggle fitting pants so I tend to avoid them. But, I get extremely desperate for pants each year, try to buy some RTW, get totally demoralized and ignore my need for pants for another 12 mos.


Well, with a vacation looming last month (it was mah-velous), I knew I needed pants. My thighs touch and in the summer in can be terribly uncomfortable. We were going to be doing plenty of walking and flying. Shorts won’t cut it so pants it is. I settled on making a pull on pair because I didn’t want to invest a lot of time constructing pants that might not fit well. And, if I’m being honest, I hope to lose some winter weight I picked up and won’t have to worry as much about the fit later on.


For this pair I chose the #139 from the April 2011 Burdastyle. This is a plus size pattern. I’m a 42 at the waist and a solid 50 through my lower thighs. My first two muslins were TERRIBLE.


At the front I could see it straining across my jutting thighs. There was also not enough clearance for my stomach and the crotch was rightupinthere.


On the reverse, not enough room for my protruding seat, a serious need for a swayback adjustment and also, not enough length in the crotch (you can see it pulling it up at the center thigh) By the third muslin on the far right, I was much happier with the fit.


Here’s my final version of the pants in a tobacco linen. I actually surprisingly really like them. The waistline was originally too tall by a few inches, but I shortened it — which makes the pockets a bit too high on this pair.


For the waist, I used a 2″ elastic vs the 1.25″ it’s drafted for. I just love wide elastic waistband. I think it looks more finished — especially with topstitching. This is a knit heavy stretch elastic so I cut it just 2″ smaller than my waist measurement and it grew a little less than 1″ after application and topstitching (making it the 1″ smaller than my waist measurement a heavy stretch should be).


There’s also twill tape in the crotch seams to prevent those from bagging out (because linen stretches).


You’ll note I skipped the hem band treatment on these pants. I decided I really liked this color and plan to wear them to work this summer. By keeping the bottom of the leg simple I think they are a hair more professional and less likely to be noticed when I wear them several times a week.


I am thinking about reducing by a 1/4″ the length in the back crotch and shortening the rise another 1/2″. I’d like them to fit around my crotch a hair snugger. But, overall I am REALLY happy and plan to make several more over the summer.

34 thoughts on “Unfancy Tobacco Linen Pull On Pants: Burdastyle 4-2011-139

  1. I love these pants! I think the color is fabulous and so neutral. I need some maxi skirts made of linen for this summer heat. Sometimes it is too hot, and I am just too sweaty for pants. You did a fabulous job on fitting these. I hope they are as cool as they look! They are certainly flattering.

    1. They are so cool! I usually change clothes as soon as I get home. These are so comfy I tend to just keep them on. Thank you, Becky!

  2. Love the pants, totally understand the thigh touch! Linen is such a lovely and ancient fabric, whenever I wear it , I feel connected to the ancestors, very nice color choice, enjoy your vacation!

  3. These are my dream summer pants but I am so scared of having to deal with muslins and fitting issues so I avoid even considering making pants. :/
    I have thick thighs that also rub and cannot recommend this product enough – it’s the only thing that has ever worked for me aside from wearing long cotton shorts under skirts etc. Megababe Thigh Rescue

    1. Thanks for the tip! I usually wear some very bootleg version of these I picked up a few years ago. But, they are big at the waist and small at the thigh. I’ve toyed about making my own. But, it’s on the long list of things I’ll get around to some day. Muslins are the worst, lol. But, I’m hopeful with this basic pant I can just crank out a few and be done with this part 😀

  4. Congratulations for sticking with the hard work of getting pants to fit! It certainly was worth the effort…they are great. The next pairs will be so much quicker to make.

    1. Thanks, Kathie! I’m really enjoying them. I have red and forest greed planned before the summer is over.

  5. Fab pants. Good job on fitting. I wish for you that you soon like them 100 per cent. That little bit of looseness around the crotch looks fine from here. The looser the style, the lower the crotch. These will sit down better than a snug fit. I’m one to talk. Fitting a new pants muslin has been high on my priorities list for years. Thanks for the inspiration.

    1. Thanks, Mery! I think I want them only a hair higher. I know they won’t fit like jeans. And, I think they look fine. But, I can feel a little rubbing at the top of my thighs after wearing the linen for a few hours. I think it’s the fabric relaxing. So, I’m hoping I can make up for that by shortening the crotch about 1/2″.

  6. Thank you for the note about using twill tape in the crotch seam – thats brilliant! I think they look fabulous from here!

  7. Those look awesome! What a great idea, to put twill tape in the crotch seam! I have a purchased pair of linen pants that make me look a bit..uh..droopy…after a full day of wearing.

  8. Love them, Girl. You look so chic and comfortable. You have made me want to try them, too

    1. Thanks, Peg! I’ve been wearing the to my pajama pants class to show students that elastic waistband pants don’t have to be dumpy looking.

  9. I have a few pants patterns AND online classes as well with EVERY intention of making them but for some reason find something else to make :)) You’ve inspired me to get on that though more than anyone else’s post (handmade PhD is doing a pretty good job too – she has some detailed posts re fitting that are amazing). Love LOVE your linen pants!! They fit you so well – thank you for that reference re twill tape and 2″ wide elastic at the waist. You’ve nudged me to get on this project for sure.

    1. Thanks for mentioning the Handmade PhD blog! I too could use a knock knee adjustment. I make them on all of my jeans. But, was so alterationed out that I skipped it on this one. I think I will though as I can see the fabric pulling up a little in the middle of my legs.

  10. Well done you . They look great . I hope this has Brocken the hex on pant making fir you. I just want to encourage you to look at Style Arc pant patterns . I use them almost exclusively now and I use their stretch woven and an elastic waist as you have discovered. They so quick to make and seem to fit very well. I think pattern review voted one of their pants pattern as pattern of the year a few years back

    1. I was just thinking about their newish pull on pant pattern last week! The Fifi maybe? I’m waiting for their Sussex pattern to come out and will do a big StyleArc buy I think.

  11. great fit – I agree, pants are tricky. Fitting them is a geometry lesson come to life 🙂 As for linen, am I the only person who can’t stand it? the wrinkle factor – it looks too crumpled for me bit perhaps I need to let that go….

  12. You look fabulous in these pants! I need some hot weather pants and your linen pants are just the inspiration I need!

  13. I’m in awe (and encouraged) about how well you fit these pants. They look terrific on you. I’ve about given up making a pair of pants that fit, but maybe I’ll give it another try since I see what you did.

  14. Discovering linen pants, years ago now, changed my summer experience….I now have, um, an embarrassingly large number of pairs. I make them REALLY loose to be cooler – a bit more trim would be more flattering I suspect but when the weather is like it is here in DC today (I metro-ed downtown to see a friend, it was ghastly everywhere and I was dripping by the time I got home, even with all the linen…..) I am willing to look a bit saggy and baggy. Must look at your pattern, it seems loose without the bagginess mine has.

    Great color, it would go with so many things!


  15. You crack me up! Love the pants and your sense of humor. Thanks for the reminder about linen stretching!

  16. This post is wonderful, the pants are great, and you are beautiful in them! I am at the beginning stages of sewing my own wardrobe and pants are my ultimate goal. I feel as though my brain is right on the edge of understanding the geometry of fitting a pants pattern/muslin, but I’m not quite there yet. I will use your advice and persevere! Thank you.

    1. If it’s any help, I found reading about pants fitting enlightening. But, still daunting. Good luck! Hardly anyone’s pants fit correctly so when you get even close to it, it feels like a minor miracle!

  17. Wow as usual you look fabulous, you have stuck with it and those pants look great! I also love but avoid making pants because of my ‘fitting issues’ and in the UK where I live they’re a nightmare to find too, when I do manage to find some to fit my 60” hip they still don’t look good! However you have encouraged me so thank you, mission pant making is about to be launched!!

  18. I love those pants so much.- I would live in them! I’m really interested, also, in the adjustment you did to get rid of the back thigh wrinkles. You mentioned that this means the crotch is too short – where do you add length? I have this issue a lot with pants but I had no idea crotch length had anything to do with it. Thank!

  19. I just happened upon your pull on pants and I love the way they look. It is so nice that you share this information. I thought I was alone in the struggle to find clothes that fit. Thank you so much!

Leave a Reply