Rain Poncho (with a hood!): Burdastyle 3/2014 #138

Burda Rain Jacket

A few years ago on vacation in Ottawa, I was wearing this VERY cute rain jacket I’d made. It started pouring rain and I told my husband I’d need to buy a rain jacket for the rest of our trip. He said, “Just pull up your hood.” Me: That’s not a hood. It’s just an enormous collar.

Never have I seen such a derisive look. It’s FASHION!

Burda Rain Jacket-11

Anywho, in the ensuing years, it’s been very clear to me that I need a rain jacket with a hood. Enter the 2014 Burdstyle. I was always interested in making this beauty, but just needed the right fabric. I picked up this Resort 2015 DKNY “leathertex”  for $5 a yard while in Dallas in 2018. The fabric is 20% polyurethane on one side and 80% cotton on the other. I have to warn you though, it’s totes not breathable. But, for what I need it for, it’s more than fine. I plan to wear this to walk my dog Linus and run errands. I won’t be camping in it! Now, I did make one big mistake sewing the poncho. I’ll try my best to explain, so please feel free to ask me any questions if it isn’t clear.

Burda Rain Jacket-5

The lining is the exact same pattern piece as the front. You do not need to remove or allow for a seam allowance to attach facings. The facings (front and sleeve) are attached to the lining ON TOP of the lining fabric. They are not seamed together as you might see in RTW. In fact, they are sewn on top of the lining and top stitched in place.

I didn’t realize this and traced / cut the lining, minus the facings. Because I did this, the lining is too narrow for the poncho by four inches. I’d already sewed everything in place, so to remove the lining and redo it meant leaving dozens of little holes in what I can best describe as a yellow plastic bag.

To move on from this, I decided to just let the lining hang free. This allows for enough ease of movement and the lining not to pull and tug at the garment. It is sometimes visible at the sleeve and inelegant. But, my jacket keeps me dry and it’s 85% okay.

Snaps: I had them set locally here in Baltimore by a place called Sew Lab. They charged $20 (I think too high by half). But, they are set very well and made me consider black which I hadn’t before. The only qualm is it’s taken a few opening and closing for them to work easily.

Burda Rain Jacket-4

Zipper: I used instructions from the Reader’s Digest Guide to Sewing. I have a bad habit of leaving a bit too much fabric available for the zipper teeth to catch.

Toggles: The pattern calls for rope in the bottom casing. I actually used a stretch nylon / elastic with toggles from my stash. I LOVE this. I can cinch the bottom of the poncho for shaping, but the elastic gives plenty of ease for movement. 10 / 10 would recommend.

Burda Rain Jacket-7

Hood: I changed the hood interfacing a bit by adding several more layers at the brim. For the interfacing, I went with a fusible buckram from Joann fabric. I also added it well past the line that Burda suggested for putting in interfacing. I wanted to make sure it would stand away from my face so water wouldn’t dribble down.

Burda Rain Jacket-10

Reflective tape: I added reflective tape to the back to make myself visible. Our neighborhood isn’t well lit.

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I put off construction on my Burdstayle poncho for two weeks because I didn't feel like dealing with the pockets. After a few days of a little here and there, the hardest part of this jacket is over..⁠ .⁠ (1,2) The pockets are double welt pockets with a flap and I didn't even bother with the Burdastyle instructions. I used the Kenneth King ribbon technique for the welts, Singer Guide to Tailoring for the flaps and pocket bags.. ⁠ .⁠ (3,4,5)The pocket bags and lining are from an Ankara print in my stash. I'm not lining the hood in this non-silky cotton because it's not Black Lady Hair Friendly™️. The pocket bags are faced, so when I open the pocket, you see the garment fabric rather than the lining..⁠ .⁠ (6) I went a little nuts in the alterations for this jacket, possibly too much. I'm a wee bit afraid this will be too big after all my changes, but the shape is pretty easy to size down. I also forgot to interface one of the pocket flaps. Can you tell which one?.⁠ .⁠ ** Burdastyle 3/2014 #128.⁠ .⁠ Next: Actual rain cape construction. ⁠ .⁠ .⁠ .⁠ .⁠ .⁠ .⁠ #isew #springshowers #sewingouterwear #rainwear #burdastyle #BurdaMag32014128

A post shared by Renee Samuels (@missceliespants) on

 

Welt Pockets: I used the Kenneth King’s “Cool Couture” book to sew the pocket welts, and the “Readers Digest Guide to Sewing” for the reamaining construction. I’ve done a bit more detail in my Instagram post above. Using fabric like this, it’s very important to interface, interface and interface. The interface helps support the pocket so it won’t droop, but also provides stability since the fabric would tear if stressed too much. I really like the added pocket facing, it gives a nice clean finish.

Waterproofing: I used iron-on waterproofing seam tape on invisible seams. Where there was topstitching, I used tent repair waterproofing brush on sealant from the US outdoor store REI.

Burda Rain Jacket-2

Voila! There you have it! I’m really happy with my poncho and have loved wearing it already. While my mistake stinks, I’m thrilled to still have a wearable garment that plugs a wardrobe hole. I really wanted a Stutterhem rainbow raincoat, but this should hold me off  hold me off for at least five years.


Also, look! I have a deck! I’ve gone on this deck like five times in the last year. I’m not an outdoors / sit outside and read person and we don’t have deck furniture. We got our house  “softwashed” and without the green and black gunk on the brick and deck, turns out it’s quite a nice little spot for taking photos outdoors.

29 comments

  1. How you make a yellow slicker look elegant, I don’t know, but you do. Very nice.

    I love the REFLECTIVE tape! I used to add reflective piping to my kids Halloween costumes and they hated it. Yes, I even added it to the black ninja costume. Kids are still sore about it. 18 and 15 years old now.

    • Thanks, Kim! I had grandiose plans of adding reflective tape to the zipper / storm flap and the pockets too. But, um, kept forgetting, lol. Kids hold grudges, don’t they? I’m still salty at my parents about a few things that were for my own good! A few years ago I was walking my dog and nearly got run over. I am positive the driver just didn’t see me.

      On Wed, Dec 4, 2019 at 6:49 PM Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  2. I love your poncho, it would brighten up a grey winters day. It is the nicest raincoat I’ve seen.

    • Thanks, Kay! It has yet to have a daytime outing. But, I’m DYING for a good soaking. It was pretty chilly today when I took photos, and I have to say I stayed warmer than I would have thought. It’s been gray, gray, gray the last few weeks. I’m looking forward to being a small pop of sunshine!

      On Wed, Dec 4, 2019 at 6:50 PM Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  3. Sunbeam on a wet gray day! Love that hood, both for its practicality and for the way it frames your face.

    • Thank you, Elle! I am contemplating giving a ride on my bike, just to see if the wind goes into the sleeves or stays down. The one time I wore it, it was TORRENTIAL. The rain rolled right off the hood and kept my face dry. I was thrilled!

      On Wed, Dec 4, 2019 at 7:26 PM Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  4. It looks great! I watched it come together on Instagram and I know it wasn’t smooth sailing but all is well that ends well!

    • Thank you, June! Yeah… it wasn’t smooth sailing and when I figured out what I did wrong, I had to put the whole thing in time out for almost a month. Womp Womp. Turns out it *works* just fine and I resisted the urge to pitch it 😉

      On Wed, Dec 4, 2019 at 11:07 PM Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  5. I think you did a great job. If I were to make something similar I would want regular sleeves. Where I live in rains a lot and wit those big sleeves water is going to run up my arms 😉

    • For sure. The sleeves are drafted longer than average to help with that — they come well past my wrist. They do tend to flip back a bit (also probably because the lining isn’t the right size). I can report that water doesn’t seem to come UP the sleeve, but will gather a bit at the hip.

      On Wed, Dec 4, 2019 at 11:51 PM Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  6. I think you did a great job. If I were to make a rain jacket, I think I would want normal sleeves so the rain doesn’t run up my arms. It rains quite a lot where I am living and it can get quite heavy in winter. You do some wonderful work though and this rain poncho is one of them.

    • Thank you! I still want to make a proper Mackintosh (but in a bright color or print), but just haven’t found the right fabric for it yet. I still think about your beautiful botanical parka.

      On Thu, Dec 5, 2019 at 1:18 AM Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  7. Wow, that is quite the achievement! It looks wonderful. Yet another fashionable innovative garment from you. 👏👏👏

    • Merci Marie! I got the shoes as few years ago after I realized I was ruining my regular shoes in the rain. Who knew having a dog required a specific wardrobe 😁?

      On Thu, Dec 5, 2019 at 7:42 AM Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  8. It looks good! I love the “pull up your hood” comment. Hah! Men just don’t know over-sized collars are totally a thing.

    • That collar is/ was GLORIOUS! He STILL double checks that I have an umbrella or hood when we head out now 😅

      On Thu, Dec 5, 2019 at 9:29 AM Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  9. it looks great and love the make it work moment with the lining. you persevered and have a super cute and functional rain jacket. personal note – you could not PAY me to make something like that, all the trouble and fuss! my mantra: undies, swimwear, athletic wear and raingear – that’s what stores are for 🙂

    • Thanks, Audrey! Not that I want winter rain, but I’m ready for the world to see more of this 😄

      On Thu, Dec 5, 2019 at 4:44 PM Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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    • Thank you! I’ve been working on a color palette, and I realized that yellow had to be in there.

      On Fri, Dec 6, 2019 at 6:20 AM Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  10. That is a glorious, visible thing. The yellow/black contrast looks super sharp. I made a lime green oversized raincoat last year for all the same reasons, and I Am My Own Traffic Flag. It’s just too dark in the winter to not be as bright as possible.
    Safe and stylin!

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