It is well documented that I love a cape. This new red one is no different.
I first made Vogue 8776 back in 2013 from an Oscar de la Renta black and purple wool. It was glorious. I was glorious. My body has changed since I made that cape and was no longer a great fit. I’d skipped out on some finer techniques because I didn’t know better. I wanted to make this cape better, but the pattern is HARD to come by. I was lucky enough to be loaned a larger size of the pattern locally and made it up again in this red double cloth wool.
Sizing: My full bust is 46 and my upperbust 41. I couldn’t figure a way to make a FBA in this and went with the XL. It does feel a little unwieldy, but no bust closing issues. I do find it rides up at center front, but with no FBA — I expected as much. The shoulders are also a little wide. So to help the shoulder slope and line, I added raglan shoulder pads under the lining.
The original pattern is unlined. This time I used flannel back satin as a lining (purchased in bulk years ago). It’s so luxurious to take off and on and provides a little extra warmth to the body.
Pockets, I used flannel back satin on my pocket and added a facing to my pocket bags.
Hems: I used a layer of fusible interfacing and wiggan at the hems for a tailored hem. This helps keep the hem crisp and turned under nicely. I did have to catchstitch the hem facing to prevent hem flare.
Arm Slits: I added twill tape to the upper and lower slit openings. I found on my first version these got a bit stretched out with wear and tear.
Front opening: I tailored this some by adding stay tape along the opening front. This is done in traditional tailoring too. I added this because I’ve noticed my openings stretching on other coats I’ve made.
Despite my regular complaints about my short neck, I didn’t adjust the standing collar and it barely buttons closed.
This red cape is influenced by the red coat worn in the Call My Agent pilot/ premiere. Instead of Parisian black accents, I’m using cream. I bought these gloves when the TV show Scandal did a collaboration with The Limited in 2015. So perhaps I’m the French Oliva Pope!
Overall I’m really pleased with this cape. My only regret might be not interfacing more of the body, and figuring out some way to size down a bit while still accommodating my bust. Neither of those are dealbreakers and I’m thrilled to have this one back in my wardrobe.