Posted in sewing

Blue Boxers, German Translation and Most AMAZING Burda Archive

I was planning on throwing in some boxers with Jordan’s Hanukkah gifts in December. But, then I thought, are underwear really gifts? Is that like getting a pack of socks from your parents? So, I decided to just make them over Thanksgiving and give them out when I was done. I tried, but he wasn’t trying to model these for my blog either. SO incredibly selfish.

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These are Jalie 2327. I’ve made them before in two or three batches for Jordan. This time, I made up five in size U. I think I found with these sizing down a size was the fit he wanted. For the waistband, I measured his waist and subtracted six inches. The Singer Sewing Reference library book on lingerie (I don’t know that Jordan would appreciate knowing my measurements for his boxers comes from a lingerie book, heh.) says subtract between 2 and 6 inches for waistband elastic.

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The fabric is Under Armour wicking material at like $5 to $7 a yard that they use for underwear. Local Guss Woolens was my UA fabric resource, and they closed up shop. So, I’ve sort of hoarded this material. I have it in three more color ranges so he should be getting boxers for a few more years now. The waistband elastic is from Sew Sassy (and conveniently University of Michigan colors). I also have it with black and grey from easy.

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Nothing too fancy here. Everything constructed with the serger. It’s as close as I get to production sewing.

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The elastic and hems are sewn with the overstitch and wooly nylon in the lower looper.


 

For myself, I have a few new bra patterns from the German company Sewy.

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They are Isabell and Leonie.  They are blessedly in my size range. But, entirely in German. If there are any German speaking readers who would be willing to translate for pay or exchange of fabric, patterns, etc, please let me know. I’ve made enough bras that I get the gist. But, English would be easier. Just leave a message at the bottom and I’ll contact you.


 

Melissa over at FehrTrade tipped me off to this on her blog. There is an incredible Burda archive here that allows you to search based on tags, size, fabric or garment. Incredible. Check it out. It’s already caused me to track down some Burdas that have patterns I *need*. You can also run the link http://burdavisor.ru through Google Translate to sort out how to download the archive. Seems like it has to be re-downloaded every month. But, with the Plus, Easy Fashion and Regular editions included going back to 2004, it’s well worth it.

Posted in sewing

Assembly Line Sewing: Fehr Trade’s Lacy Thong

My underwear situation is pretty tragic. Once I figured out a year ago that I could sew my own panties, I refused to buy them any more (even at $5 a pair). Except, I also wasn’t sewing them either.

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It was Trena who mentioned she’d used the Under Armour thin wicking fabric from my local Guss Woolens’ to make drawers.  I don’t know why it didn’t occur to me! They told me in the shop it was used for making underwear at Under Armour.  Trena  kept going on and on about how great the fabric was for underwear (great recovery, breathable, non fading).

Last February, Kathi R. sent me a stack of pretty stretch laces from FIDM. Lots of gorgeous colors! So, when Melissa released her free Lacy Thong Pattern, I knew I had no excuse but to get to sewing.

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For my first sample, I used a black stretch lace from Fashions Unlimited. I think this was like 50 cents to 1 dollar a yard. Once the first version was sewn and worn with success, I got to cutting.

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And assembling

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And sewing. I found my 1/4 inch foot super helpful with the smallish seam allowances.

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In my mind I was making 10 pairs. But, started to lose steam, lol. Here are the six of the seven that I completed.

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My prior lace thong pattern draft is all lace and I don’t find that the greatest for every day wear. But, this version with the jersey is perfect. A little sexy but still practical.

What do I love about this pattern? It’s simple. You don’t need a serger. The style is super cute. I can’t thank Melissa enough for giving us access to it!

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What don’t I like? It’s kind of tedious to sew like this. I wouldn’t recommend batch sewing unless you are in dire straits (as I was). Otherwise, just sew them as you feel like it!

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I’ve updated the Lingerie Resources tab at the top of my blog. A few etsy shops and bra components were no longer active. And, I added another three or four etsy shops I found from searching.

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I have some one inch wide lace on order to make a similar batch of the Rosie Lady Shorts from Cloth Habit. Not my usual style of underwear, but I thought the pattern was super cute and would be great for working out.

I picked up several yards of gray and royal blue thin wicking from Under Armour at Guss Woolens today to try it out soon. Guss Woolens doesn’t have an online presence  but will mail samples out and take phone orders if you’re interested.

Posted in sewing

Tweaked Performance Boxer Briefs: Jalie 2327

I am a last minute sewer. I whipped up two pairs of black wicking boxer shorts for a birthday gift before work last Thursday morning.

I first made these boxer briefs in royal blue as a holiday gift back in December. I made a few mock pairs up for a volunteer pattern testing friend to ‘test’ run for me. After giving the briefs as a gift and hearing back from my pattern testing friend, I decided to make another tweak to the pattern.

The first tweak on my original pair (above) was adding a gusset in the crotch area (based on RTW and comments). This allows the boxers to ‘snug’ up in between the legs so to speak.

This time, I added more of a curve to the fly — about 1/4 inch for a total of half of inch. The red line is the original pattern line. This should allow them to be more fitted. I tried to think of it like a bra cup. The previous version didn’t have enough depth.

I believe the pattern is discontinued. I saw ‘performance boxers’ at Sam’s Club last week. They were two for $21 I think. This fabric is Under Armour wicking from Guss Woolens in Baltimore and $5 a yard. So, I made two pairs for $5 really. Unfortuntely, I bought the last of this waistbanding from an Etsy seller. But, I’m on the constant hunt for more.

Guss Woolens has this thin wicking in black and several shades of blue. I plan to use some for myself for workout tops and underwear.

Posted in sewing

Weekends

Yesterday I went down to the DC suburbs for the MD/VA/DC blogger meet up organized by Lisa. Good times! I’ve been wearing the heck out of my little purple shift (worn below). Despite swearing I wasn’t leaving with any fabric, I walked away with about ten pieces from the unloved fabric table. Heh.

This weekend I also made up two pairs of men’s boxer briefs from a Jalie 2327 for a holiday gift. I’m not sure how they fit yet as I’ve not gifted them yet.  But, based on some snooping around in underwear drawers (pun intended) I figured out the size I wanted to sew.

I also noticed that the RTW pairs I saw had a gusset in the crotch (horrid word), so I added that.

I used some flag elastic from eBay for the waist.  Gives it even more of an International Male (link is SO NOT safe for work) vibe, LOL. One pair is just from tubular cotton in my stash. No idea where it came from. The other pair is from the Under Armour knit I bought from Guss Woolens.

I do think the fly  is INSANELY long looking.

This took about 30 minutes from start to finish to sew. Super easy and actually useful. I’m probably going to make my dad a few pairs too. But, with traditional brief elastic and in boring white or gray. He cannot take fancy stuff with his drawers.

Posted in sewing

Under Armour Fabric Find

Under Armour is a Baltimore based athletic gear company. They are very very good partners with the City and a source of great pride among residents. So much so, that when I’m not wearing Under Armour for my athletic gear, I actually feel guilty!

The one qualm is their stuff is pricey, but honestly, worth it. The pieces I do have ll So, imagine my absolute delight when my local Guss Woolens sent an email saying they had Under Armour Cold Gear material in stock! Cold Gear is for weather under 55 degrees. And, considering how cold I always am, I live in warm fleecy garments in the winter.

I may have gone a little bananas. But, at $5 a yard for the double thick, wicking Cold Gear (forest green, red, royal blue and navy), I pretty much bought every color in stock.

And, they also have this super thin wicking fabric (black, grey, navy, royal blue and cafe au lait) that I plan to use for workout underwear or base layers. I was super happy because I remember the grey from these boy shorts.

Why am I telling you this? Because I’m nicely stocked up for myself (and two friends) and have no fear of not getting enough for myself. Plus, if you buy from them, then they’ll keep getting more and I can keep myself well stocked for years to come.

What am I going to make? We’ll…. let’s just say my long weekend sewing plans are confirmed.

Burda 11-2008-128


Burda 11/2007 #122
Burda 11/2007 #118

Hooded sweatshirts. I loved this one Burda from November 2007 from velour several years ago and would like to make again…. but with a FBA and longer to cover my hips.

So, there you have it. Want to sew up some of it? Call or email Guss Woolens.