Posted in Design School

I’m actually done….

with the Orquidea Dress (which apparently means ‘orchid’ in Spanish). And, it is now sold out from Anthropologie.  I made the dress and re-drafted a clean version of the pattern for my final this weekend.

Navy blue is as bad as black for photographing color. I’m going to have to wait until it’s consistently not raining and warm to take pictures outside. In the meantime, this blurry half dress will have to do. I really just wanted to show the lining, dress, ruffle color combo. Mmmmmm. Polka dots.

Before a I forget, special thanks to Marji for her help analyizing the dress and Ann for some brilliant help on the wonky hem. But, more on that when I do an actual reveal.

Guess what? I leave for Portland on Thursday morning!

Posted in Design School, sewing

Final Project: The LAST (and 4th) muslin…

Seriously. This is the fourth and last one for this dress. Honestly, many of my fit issues dealt with my sloper not being correct. I ended up shortening the front waist by a total of two inches, the back by one and the shoulders by 1/2 inch to get the waistline to hit correctly.

For the ruffle, I narrowed it by about three inches and am still going to take out another two I think. Also, I think it’s the weight of the fabric ruffle that’s making the weird fold in the front.

If you look at Muslin #3 (above), there is a slight fold. Muslin #4 ruffle fabric is heavier, so it’s collapsing more.

The fabric I’m using for the final is from the Carol Collection. Heavy navy linen and this red and white striped ruffle. I’ll also be moving the ruffle to the left — like the original. I’m going to interface the insertion point for the ruffle, so hopefully that will prevent the droop. I’m also going to alter the skirt a wee bit to peg it some. That will also help add some structure.

I don’t say it enough, but y’all are the best. I’m sure you’re sick of looking at this as I am. But, your suggestions and ideas have been invaluable. I have to turn it in next week!

Posted in Design School

Final Project: Muslin #3

Third muslin. I’m all sewn out today.  I like the side fit

The back is still a little long

But, the front waistline appears to be hitting in the right spot. The ruffle is not what I was looking for, but I rather like it. It reminds me of the dress that Amy in WA State told me about. Here

I will sleep on it and hopefully think through the problems this week. The other issue is that I’ve pinned it up an inch on each shoulder and that seems to have helped with fit. It’s due on the 21st, but I leave for PR Weekend in Portland on the 13. Or the 14th. I can’t remember right now 🙂

Posted in Design School

Final Project: Muslin #1

So, my first real stab at drafting, eh?

I have skipped the princess seam and gone with a French and waist dart for the bodice which is how the original is drafted. The first problem I have with the sloper is that it looks worse in photos than in real life. I’m not sure how to interpret that. At any rate, the waistline measures two inches below my actual waist.

The back, is more complicated. I still need to raise the waistline and possibly shorten the back.

I also added a  total of four inches to the hips between ease and other adjustments. But, there are still wrinkles around the darts and I think I know why. Boring part forthcoming.

This is my sloper. The darts are angled rather than straight. That’s because of the horizontal dart I take to make my swayback adjustment. My instructor pointed out they should be straight. I think if I straighten them out, those wrinkles will subside. Because there is a ton o’ ease back there.

I’ve already adjusted my pattern pieces and will crank out another muslin tomorrow with those changes and hopefully, the skirt ruffle.

Posted in Design School

Brilliant Idea Gone Awry

A couple weeks ago I bought this tube for carrying my slopers back and forth from office to class. Smart, right? I can’t take all the credit, AJ in Scotland suggested it. It’s got a handy strap so I just sling it over my shoulder and off I go. Thursday, I rolled up my entire oaktag dress sloper, extra tracing paper and extra oak tag (so I can make my pants sloper) and put them in the tube. I felt very smart walking back to work today. Tres chic, no?

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This morning, I am at my wits end because this $%^ will NOT come out of the *#@% tube. 

Wont. Come. Out.

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I have banged, I have pushed, I have pulled, I have swung with great force, I have begged, pleaded and cried. It’s stuck like a cheating husband caught with his girlfriend. I went at it for over an hour. I even went at it with grill tongs.

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No, I was not thinking and should have rolled it all up and used a rubber band before placing in the tube. Grrrrr. I think. Sigh. I think I’m going to have to cut open the tube.  It is really annoying because I got it on sale for just $8. Sigh. I’m going to spring for the telescoping tube next time and take a minute to use a rubberband.

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