All the Fashion in the Western Reserve

September 5, 2016 by Miss Celie

My dearest childhood friend Stephanie lives in Youngstown, Ohio. We met back when our families were stationed in Germany during middle school. She has three great kids and a full time job so we don’t get to see each other too often. She’s just a five hour drive away so Jordan and I took the long Labor Day weekend for a mini break in the Western Reserve. As per usual, I managed to squeeze in as much sewing / fashion related stuff as humanly possible. Since this is a long post with many, many photos, I’ll just help you along here here and let you jump to the parts that might interest you most. I was lucky enough to spend time looking at quilts and knitting at the The Canfield Fair, fabulous performance costumes at the The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and checking out the amazing costume collection at the Kent State Museum.

Sewing Machine Tractor. Of course.

When Stephanie suggested the Canfield Fair for our Friday plans I was all about it. And, not just in for the deep fried cheese curds. The Canfield Fair is the largest County Fair in the country! I went online and saw they had quilting exhibits in addition to hand and machine knitting. There was fashion sewing too, but I didn’t grab any photos of those.

While there were just a few items that were machine and hand knit, I was BLOWN away by the gorgeous hand and machine made quilts on display.

After we left Youngstown, Jordan and I headed up to Cleveland for the remainder of the weekend. The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame was top of our list.

As per usual, I beelined for the costume display.

Oh, Queen Bey. Why did I recognize every single one of the seven costumes on display?

Also, I totally want to be a Supreme.

On Sunday, we drove an hour outside of Cleveland to Kent State University so I could see a few of the current exhibitions from their museum’s costume collection.

Closing this weekend in the incredible Flapper Style: 1920s Fashion. Holy beaded beauty. Flapper Style is a wonderful collection of period pieces. The 40 pieces (mostly dresses and hats) are grouped by themes of Romanticism, Art Deco, Exoticism and Abstraction. Here are a few of my favorites:

Following the incredible Flapper Style, I went to view the Fashion Timeline exhibit which does a remarkable job of tying fashion to current events. From the advent of fabric production to the invention and adoption of the sewing machine, fashion is tied together.

They started with the mid 1700s and wrapped up with the mid 1960s (You can see the interactive timeline here). As I’ve noted before, I have very mixed emotions when it comes to vintage clothes. For me, it’s important to not look at the amazing fashion of the past and idealize what were generally crappy times for people of color and women. I love fashion and costumes and can deeply appreciate the clothes for what they are. But, it’s odd to stand around and admire an antebellum dress that was afforded on the backs of slave labor (says the girl who holds Gone With the Wind and To Kill a Mockingbird up as her favorite books of all time). Or, love the details in a dress from the 50s and 60s and not think about the massive violation of civil rights in America. That said, the exhibit does a good job of noting the part of our history that made fashion possible, like the invention of the cotton gin. Or, acknowledging that women in the work place influenced and changed style very quickly.

Here are a few of the pieces from the collection that really spoke to me.

The final exhibition I saw was Fashion Designs of Southern Africa. While I was originally most excited about this new exhibit, I was underwhelmed in person. Perhaps it’s because I’m admittedly not familiar with designers from Southern Africa.But, I found the selections underwhelming with not enough context.

So, that wraps up all the ways I turned our mini break into my fashion tour of the Western Reserve🙂. If you can make it to Kent State I highly recommend you visit their compact but well curated costume museum. And, if you’re at the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, give yourself plenty of time. I could have spent hours and hours in there. We also did a bunch of other touristy stuff including walking and biking tours that I very much enjoyed. I can tell you for sure though, Cleveland absolutely rocks!

Athletic Wear: Jalie 3462, Cora Leggings

August 22, 2016 by Miss Celie

You guys.

I made leggings that did not require a full seat, full/forward/muscular/fat thigh nor a sway back adjustment.

Don’t adjust your phone screen. What I speak is the truth. Because, the Jalie Cora Leggings are the MOTHER LOVING BUSINESS. Or magic. But, probably just really well drafted if we’re being honest. Yet, still a strong possibility of magic.

When it comes to workout clothes, I’m a big fan of leggings. As my thighs have touched since birth, shorts give me continual chub rub and I don’t like to chafe. Leggings are my friend. I made three pairs of these and I LOVE them. They are stylish and comfotable and I felt totally hawt and fit!

Now, one bit of advice I would give should you choose to make these. Listen is to your inner voice and DO NOT put the lightest color as the inner thigh contrast. Holy stare at my butt Batman!

Eggplant, grey, teal with an eyeful of me.

After making this mistake with my first pair, I was far more judicious in my color choices with my second and third pair – making sure to put the darker color at the center. Most of the fabric is from Suzie Spandex in Montréal – which I bought in purple, grey, black, red and blue during PR Weekend there like six years ago. What’s funny is the Jalie women were on that trip and raved about the Suziplex. The accent colors of baby blue and mint green are Supplex from Stretch House, purchased about six years ago in NY

Black, grey, baby blue w. reflective tape

On my second pair, I added stretchy sew-in reflective tape to the calf and pocket seams (above). Speaking of the pocket… Do you see my iPod bulging a bit at the back below my waist? It’s a crazy great pocket. It fits my huge android phone, keys and ID too.

Chocolate brown and mint green

Of the many many yards of athletic fabric I’ve bought including Under Armor, Nike, and general supplex this Suziplex is the best stuff I’ve ever used. And, it’s sadly no longer being made. Melissa from FehrTrade tipped me off that they weren’t selling it anymore last year and I called and placed an obscene order – tariffs and international shipping be dammed! This of course left me with some odd colors (brown, teal, burgundy, and violet). But, I do not care. I will hoard these until they are sold for a $1 a yard at my estate sale.

reflective tape

I sewed a size X at the waist grading to a Z at the thigh based on my measurements. That’s it. No alterations. No special tricks. No sizing down. No topstitching the seams. I sewed this mostly mostly on my serger and used my coverstitch for the hemming. I did add some reflective tape on two pairs for some night visibility.

I do vacillate between feeling really good with how these look on my butt to feeling like they show a lot of my butt. It’s so hurrrd being a woman.

reflective tape

That’s it. I love them. Please pardon me while I go work out. Or walk the dog. He clearly is ready to go out.

They Call Me The Duchess: Style Arc Gorgeous Gore Skirt and Phillipa Peplum

July 24, 2016 by Miss Celie

I kind of went crazy when StyleArc put together several pieces from the 2014 Royal Tour to Australia. After two years, I finally sewed up the Phillipa Top, Gorgeous Gore skirt, and Kate dress from their Etsy shop as copy shop patterns (death to taping!). I would have bought the Catherine too, but it wasn’t available as a PDF.

I SWOONED over this pink wool jersey Alexander McQueen ensemble.

The royals, Kate and William, arrive into Adelaide without their son GeorgePictured: Prince William and Kate Ref: SPL743025 230414
Picture by: Splash News

Having the same lithe figure as the Duchess (HA!), I decided to whip up my own version using a polyester ponte knit I bought last year from Metro Textiles in the Garment District.

IMG_20160723_174059

I wore it this weekend to Jordan’s grandfather’s 80th birthday dinner. And, that’s the only photo I have of it on me. It’s literally 100 degrees here (they are calling it a ‘Heat Dome’) and you’ll be shocked to know poly scuba does not breath. We snapped this on my cell phone for IG in the hotel and bolted for the restaurant.

DSC_0005 photo DSC_0005_zps56rxtrmh.jpg

Any who, when I first sent the photo of this outfit on my dress form, my friend Liz said “I have to see it on. It looks potentially matronly”. I can see why. First, my dress form approximates but doesn’t mimic my figure. Second, I think we can all agree that perhaps Catherine dresses a little…. mumsy? That said, I’m actually pretty pleased with the silouhette overall on me.

The Gorgeous Gore skirt is a really terrific beginner pattern and intro to StyleArc. It’s just two pattern pieces and a really simple sew. I purchased the 12-14-16 size range. For the skirt, I cut the 16 and ended up taking it in at the waist about three sizes and one size through the thighs. The instructions might be a bit confusing if you read too fast. But, I sewed each panel with 1/4 inch seams and the side seams with 3/8 inch allowance. I ended up shortening the skirt by two inches and using 1/2 inch wide elastic at the waist rather that 1/4 inch.

For the Philipa top, I found one online review and read a smattering of comments on other blogs about it being too low cut. Which, I did not find to be the case at all. Maybe because I’m a little busty it doesn’t come down as far as for others? I did also make an FBA and multiple muslins of the top. Why? Because it’s a new-to-me company and my fabric is precious.

Muslin 1: I started with a 16, raised the neckline by 1 inch and made a 1.25 inch FBA adding a side dart and shortening the front dart by 1 inch.

Muslin 2: Dropped down to a 12, put the neckline back where it was and made a 1.25 inch FBA

Muslin 3: Kept the size 12 (which is still a wee bit big) and reduced my FBA to 1 inch. I also lowered the side darts 1/2 inch. FYI, darts can end 1 to 2.5 inches from the apex. Mine still don’t. They are right up on me.

I also changed the 3/4 sleeves to a capped sleeve. Because, poly scuba in the dead of summer.

DSC_0021 photo DSC_0021_zpsukhspafv.jpg

And, here’s the back view. I can get the top on fine without unzipping. But, with a zip, it’s easier to get on without messing up my hair and makeup. So, I’m glad I kept it.

DSC_0024 photo DSC_0024_zpskisfdes0.jpg

StyleArc is AWESOME and I’m sorry it took me this long to discover them. I love, love, love this outfit. And, maybe someday I’ll actually get more photos of me in it! I hope to make this up in the fall in long sleeves using some of my stashed wool jersey — maybe a nice camel. Wouldn’t that look awesome with tall boots?

Cashmerette Patterns Concord Tee – Review

July 10, 2016 by Miss Celie

Hot time, summer in the city and all that, eh? In April, we went to Santa Fe for my 40th birthday. The night of my birthday dinner I did a wine pairing at a fancy Santa Fe restaurant. While I like my drink, I’m not a big drinker, but at the price point for the meal, I drank every last overpriced drop.

I ordered this on the last night of vacation in a margarita induced haze. So, pleasantly surprised when it showed up today 😊 #nomorefbas #cashmerettepatterns #concordtshirt

A photo posted by Renee (@missceliespants) on Apr 20, 2016 at 10:36am PDT

A few days after said dinner, the Concord Tee from Cashmerette patterns showed up in my mail box. Initially startled, I foggily remembered ordering it the night of said matched wine impaired dinner. Apparently, you can drunk purchase.

Quick and dirty muslin of #concordtshirt from Cashmerette. Neckline a little wide and low for my narrow shoulders. No FBA needed. But, my swayback needs more than what the pattern is designed for . I sewed a 12, grading to a 16 w. the E/F cup. I might sew a 12 through the waist too and grade to a 14 at the hip.

A photo posted by Renee (@missceliespants) on Jul 5, 2016 at 3:37pm PDT

I was drawn to the Cashmerette line for the lack of an FBA. I mean, I can make them. But, I don’t like it. For my muslin, I cut an E/F cup (I’m a 34G bra) with a 12 bodice, grading out to a 16 at the hip ( For reference, these days I’m sewing a 40 in Burda on top w. a 1.5 – 2 inch inch or so FBA and a 40 grading to a 46 on the bottom.) . My bust measurement is spot on for Cashmerette’s 12 E/F. But, my waist and hip fell between the 14 and 16.

While the bust generally fit, I found overall the shirt was bigger/ had more ease that I wanted. In addition, the front neckline was really wide on me so that my bra would show and a little low – just a sliver of cleavage. I also noticed that there’s a bit of extra fabric width between my bust and shoulders. Plus, the shoulders are a hair too wide for me as drafted.

For my additional versions, I raised the neckline 1/4 inch and sewed 12; grading to just a 14 at the high hip. Much better (didn’t make the shoulder adjustment yet).

But, here in these sitting photo, you can see what I mean about there being a little more length or width than I need between the upper bust and the shoulder.

And, I can’t bend over in the v-neck version without exposing myself.

I’ve made about four of these shirts in the scoop and v-neck, medium length and short sleeved. I’ve since altered the pattern for what I think will work best of taking out that 2 cm of gaposis but don’t have more fabric to test it in. I’ve also narrowed the shoulder 1/4 inch. Next time I get my hands on some cotton knits, I’ll make up a few more too.

Oh, I initially sewed the muslin as a tunic. Which I didn’t care for on me. But, I didn’t save a photo because I’m an idiot.

Too busy copying @boden_clothing IG shots and sewing more Concord tee shirts to model this top. I hope you understand 😂 #concordtshirt

A photo posted by Renee (@missceliespants) on Jul 6, 2016 at 4:17pm PDT

As for the instructions, I kind of just glanced at them. The pattern provides a lot of handholding which an intermediate to advanced seamstress might find unnecessary. The pattern has V-neck instructions I’ve not seen before. I used my TNT v-neck method from the Sewing Athleticwear from the Singer Sewing Reference Library.

For my gray scoop neck version, I bound the neckline also using instruction from the Sewing Athleticwear volume of the Singer Sewing Reference Library. I did them this way because cotton knits tend to stretch. And this is a way of having a nice, snug yet still stretchy neckline. It’s a really pretty and very neat finish that I like doing.

Now, the $18 elephant in my room. Is this pattern worth it? For ease of use, absolutely. It’s nice to have a dartless tee that actually fits. And, while I need a few small alterations for it to be my ideal, that’s nothing compared to starting from scratch with a B or C cup pattern. Plus, it’s great when a pattern fits you out the envelope. But, in my view they really aren’t supposed to if you want the best fit possible🙂

Button Front Skirt: Burdastyle 9-2009 #125

June 29, 2016 by Miss Celie

About 20+ years ago I had a thrifted a-line skirt made from denim with buttons up the front. I’m not sure whatever happened to that skirt. But, I have noticed these skirts are all the rage lately and it seemed like a perfect summer skirt. Enter BurdaStyle 9-2009 #125

A really lovely basic skirt. It’s made up a few ways in the magazine including leather with the front closures or with a side zip in three different lengths.

For my first version (because of course I made two) I used some leftover orange and cream stretch twill from the creamscicle dress I made six years ago.

I sewed a 40 at the waist grading out to a 46 at the lower thigh. I also made swayback adjustment but totally forgot to add the inch I took out from the waist back to the skirt hem. So, it rides up a little in the back Also, my fabric is stretch so it flares a bit more than the pattern draft calls for.

When sewing a skirt without a waistband, it’s inherently going to stretch as it’s all bias. So, you’ll want to use twill tape in the waist seam allowances or be sure to double stitch the waistline. Since I was making mine from denim and not leather, I also interfaced the front fold extension.

The insides are all serged. It would be very pretty if I’d bound the insides (or useful if I’d taken a photo of the insides…) But, I didn’t. I paired this skirt with my summer sweater made from orange cotton. It’s slouchy and comfy with this more casual skirt.

Blue Denim:

I wanted a skirt reminiscent of a traditional denim skirt and mimicked my high school skirt. And, I wanted it to be casual enough to wear with some of the graphic tees I have but never wear (because I don’t have anything to wear them with). My only additional alteration with this version was to add an extra inch in length to the skirt overall, but of course not to the center back to make up for my swayback adjustment. Sigh.

Jordan thinks these skirts are shorter than I normally wear. He claims I like to cover my knees. But, I wanted something short for summer that subbed in for actual shorts🙂

For this version, I used really cute donut jeans buttons. I used dark grey topstitching thread and it pulls the nickel of the buttons in nicely. All but two of these buttons popped off while wearing or putting on the first few times.

Overall, a nice little summer skirt pattern. And, for once I am on trend! Plus, you know I love anything even vaguely nautical🙂

This is an embarrassingly bad salute. I am clearly out of practice.

African / Dutch Wax Fabric Exhibit

June 20, 2016 by Miss Celie

Just popping in to give a plug for a wonderful textile exhibit I saw last week on African Wax Prints at the Philadelphia Museum of Art with Carolyn, Andrea and Claudine.

Philly is an easy two-hour drive from Baltimore and has one of the few remaining costume collections on the east coast. While no Met / Brooklyn Museum of Art collection, it was a phenomenal exhibition and worth a visit.

The Vlisco: Fashion on a Global Stage exhibit is part of their season long Creative Africa focus.

Smartly curated, the Vlisco exhibit shows clothing made up in the wax prints. But, also highlights the history and meaning of various prints along the walls. In addition, they give a history of the company, how the wax trade worked and how the fabrics are made.

Briefly, the fabrics we know today as ‘wax prints’ were originally made in Holland for the Indonesian market. The Indonesian batik process was labor intensive. So, the Dutch tried to speed up the process with mechanics.

While the Indonesians rejected the prints, the global slave/commodities trade brought it to the African continent and they fell for the bright and bold colors.

I, as a confirmed magpie, will wear ALL the wax prints. Years ago I went to Ghana and must have brought home 60 – 100 yards of wax prints. I didn’t buy any fabric when I went to Bali. Turns out I was totally underwhelmed by Indonesian batiks. But, I highly recommend a textile tour if you do go to Bali. It’s worth it to see the process.

Yet, when I look at Dutch wax prints, it’s easy to see the roots of the Indonesian batik process.

You know, I generally don’t like saying ‘African’ because Africa is a continent made up of 54 different countries. I imagine it’s correct to say Dutch Wax Prints as the most famous line is Vlisco and they are made in the Netherlands. But, there are companies in Africa who also make prints like GTP. I try to say Ankara which is how a lot of the West Africans I know refer to it and it shows up on Instagram.

Let’s close with some of my favorites:

Shirtdress. This is going to happen this year. I promise.

Cape Dress. It’s so gorgeous I weep.

I just want to wear it and dramatically walk out of a room.

Overall, a totally satisfying exhibit.

More photos from the exhibit with a few from my textile tour in Bali.

Some further reading if you’re interested:

Africa’s Fabric is Dutch, the New York Times

When West Africans Dress, the Fabric is the Message , The New York Times

Finally, I’m slowly working on altering some of my mom’s clothes for my wardrobe. This dress was made for my mom by my Aunt Judy when she visited Ghana.

Thanks 4" seam allowances! Finally altered mom's top to fit me. No hope for the skirt. I couldn't pull it up past my knees 😂 ⌛ #iusedeverycentimeter #ankarafashion #ghana #ankarafabric #waxprint

A photo posted by Renee (@missceliespants) on Jun 15, 2016 at 1:52pm PDT

I’d like to thank the Ghanian women who made my mom’s two piece dress for their 4 inch seam allowances. I was able to let the top out and wear it to the exhibition. I’m about six sizes larger than my mom.

IMGP0551 photo IMGP0551_zpsn0bni5hu.jpg

The bust is woefully unflattering (smooshes me into a pear vs an hourglass). But, it was my mom’s so I kind of don’t care🙂 You can read more about the dress here from when I first altered it to fit her.

IMGP0553 photo IMGP0553_zpstegqwbtl.jpg

All The Things!

June 14, 2016 by Miss Celie

You guys. I am having, like the BEST summer ever. No, seriously. I’ve just been floating from happiness the last few days. Here’s what’s going on:

Designer Veronik Avery was road tripping to TNNA in DC last week. Through quick Instagram begging I asked if she could stop in Baltimore on her way down and we met for crabs. Veronik is like the *realest*. She knows what she’s talking about when it comes to knitting and sewing and design. I just want to sit in her halo and get all the knowledge I can.

When you come to Baltimore, I will take you for crabs. But, I can't show you how to eat them 😊 @veronik_avery #bawlmer #ilovecitylife #imsobaltimore

A photo posted by Renee (@missceliespants) on Jun 9, 2016 at 12:47pm PDT

Then, she asked if I’d like to come by TNNA Trade Show (The National NeedleArts Association) on Sunday and of course I said YES! TNNA was a new-to-me organization. It’s for the trade only. Vendors show their new lines for knitting, crochet and needlepoint. So, like two of the three things I’m currently obsessed with.

Went to TNNA w. @veronik_avery and managed to buy nothing. And, it was really really hard 😇 #tnnashow #tnna

A photo posted by Renee (@missceliespants) on Jun 12, 2016 at 1:15pm PDT

I didn’t feel comfortable taking photos on the floor so not many pictures from there. Talk about a great guide though! Veronik was like a walking Rolodex and yarn encyclopedia and HI-larius. It was AWESOME. I did find a crapload of stuff I want to try:

This Sights and Scenes of London needlepoint canvas from Kirk and Bradley. Yes, I’m still working on my first needlepoint. One year in. Another two to go.
This crab / maryland pillow to needlepoint
These Country Bird inspired yarns from WYS
This Caramel blanket cardigan (I saw it knit up vs just admiring on Ravelry)

Thank you Veronik (link to her IG) for introducing me to a whole new world and letting me crash your party!

Monday I took the bus to New York to do two things I’ve been DYING to do.

First, meet Jasika Nicole from TryCuriousblog.com and hang out with she and Marcy of Oonaballona fame. You’ll see I also made the right decision to keep my hair pinned back as it CANNOT COMPETE in volume.

I’ve never laughed so hard and had such intense yet lighthearted conversations in my life. I’d been looking forward to this for a whole month and it was EVERYTHING I WANTED IT TO BE.

Second, I saw Manus x Machina at the Met. If you can go, run. Don’t walk.

Last year I skipped China Throught the Looking Glass because I wasn’t interested in Asian inspired design. But, the Costume Institute is more thoughtful than my literal interpretation. Originally, I thought Manus x Machina would be like tech clothes or something. But, it wasn’t. Because, the curators are smarter than me. Lesson learned: Don’t Skip the Exhibit.

The show looks at different methods of creating garments using machine vs man and it’s stunning. Think lace work, pleating, manipulation and construction of haute couture. I want to take a twin size cot to the Met and sleep there so I can wake up every day to the incredible talents of designers.

And, I found the star fabric I needed to sew my Wonder Woman inspired swimsuit. Yeah. That’s right. Wonder. Woman.

So, a really really incredibly fun few days with friends.

I also managed to finish knitting a summer sweater drafted in Garment Designer and overall I’m happy with it. I have a lot of mistakes and my seaming isn’t great. But, I KNIT something for ME. I also only have cell phone snaps. And, I don’t know when I’ll get to do a proper photo shoot. Maybe when I sew the coordinating skirt?

Despite looking like an actual orange, happy with my first me-made sweater! 😁🍊

A photo posted by Renee (@missceliespants) on Jun 11, 2016 at 6:29pm PDT

It’s totally a ’round’ look on me. But, I’m happy with it! I wish it had a little less ease and slightly shorter. But, I’m still learning my style with knitting and using the software. Ravelry notes here.

Oh, and after two years I changed my Instagram and Twitter to misscelisepants instead of fussbudgit. I think I had Twitter before I had a blog so I picked an old nickname. Then when I had IG I thought it wouldn’t last (HA!) and just used the same twitter name to be consistent. It seems like Instagram is sticking despite my initial predictions. So, now I have the same name on my blog, twitter and IG. Real big and exciting news, huh?

Miss Celie's Pants

Category Archives: sewing