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Burdastyle 2-2011 #118: Dior Dart Linen Dress

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I’d had my eye on this pattern since it came out back in February 2011. This year, I’m sewing from a plan. Well, I wrote up a list of all the patterns or fabric combos I wanted to make and this was at the top of my list.

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I’ve always liked the seaming in the front and the cut on sleeves. At the time, I also liked the boatneck. But, have come to realize that doesn’t work great on me. So, I lowered the neckline an inch.

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The dress isn’t your typical sack. The Dior darts and princess seams provide some visual interest and fit around the bust. And, I wanted something easy I could wear on vacation to California.

There’s a note on this pattern to see the color section of the magazine for tips on sewing “Kimono Sleeves”. If you have the US version of this magazine, said color section does not exist. Luckily, Ann is Belgium sent me photos of her French instructions. And, I have to say I needed them. I don’t read French, but the photos are really helpful. Not that I got mine looking good 😂.

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The problem with mine is I tried to be fancy and use different seam allowances for different parts. I think for the sleeves to go well, you need to use a consistent seam allowance on the undersleeve, front, back and side piece.

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Sizing: I made a 44 grading to a 50 at the thigh (outside of the pattern range). I also made a swayback, protruding seat and 1.5″ full bust adjustment. To make a FBA on the Dior Dart I used this helpful information from Nancy K and made a Y alteration.

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I ended up shortening the dress by 5″ to closer match the model. I think the cut line is marked incorrectly for the pattern and the first line (marked for a different model) is the correct hemline.

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That said, this is about one inch too short for me. Too short in part for comfort. But, also too short proportion wise. I think it would look best a little longer. I’ll still wear it though! But, next time will add a little length back.

This dress doesn’t photographs in a ‘flattering’ way. But, honestly, it’s comfortable, I love the color, I like how it fits and love it. I want to make it up again in a plaid I’ve had in my stash for YEARS and I’ll add a few inches back to the hemline.Yellow Dior-6

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Sleeveless Season: Cashmerette Webster Top

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Oh, wovens… how I miss you! I spent last year making jeans, tee shirts and outerwear. But, this year I needed something light for our summer vacation to California and cuuuttte.

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I picked up the Webster when I was in Boston few months ago at Cashmerette HQ. So, while I technically didn’t pay for this pattern, all opinions are my own. And, my opinion is YASSS, Queen, slay!

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I love love love the neckline. The V is deep but doesn’t show cleavage. It’s beautifully flattering. The back is equally interesting. In fact, my friend who took photos exclaimed, “CUTE!!” when she saw the back.

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My Webster top is made up in a long stashed Marc by Marc Jacobs embroidered star voile. It’s lightweight with body and most of all is a solid that isn’t.

I did make some alterations for fit for my body that I’ll try and capture here. There is some video of it all (for the time being) on my Instagram page. If you go to my profile, under my name there’s a bubble that says “Webster Fit”.

  1. The front shoulder seam were rolling forward on me. So, I lengthened the front between the shoulder and bust by 1″ and shortened the back the same amount.
  2. 1/2″ swayback adjustment. These patterns have a sway back. I just need more
  3. Protruding seat adjustment. This added some length over my bum at center back and some width at the back side seam only.
  4. 1/4″ sloping shoulder adjustment (for a total of 1/2″)
  5. This pattern is a very loose casual fit. So, I used the 14 E/F which matches my full bust measurement of 43 and graded to a 12 in the waist / hip area even though I measure into a 16/18 in the hip.

I like that this pattern has an all-in-one-facing. That means no flipping out.

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I finished the insides with French seams to keep it neat.

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And, I loved this so much I immediately made a dress version which I’ll share soon!

** worn here with my Jalie stretch jeans in a cropped length

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Save The Date: Fabric Swap and Destash Sunday, June 24, 2018

Regional readers (Maryland, DC, VA, Delaware, Philly)! I’m really excited to announce a pattern, fabric and yarn swap and destash in Baltimore city on Sunday, June 24th.

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What’s the goal? You can destash your yarn, fabric and patterns you no longer love and pick out new fabric from what others have brought in. You’ll also get to meet other makers in the area who attend. It’s a save the date for now and I’ll have more details next month. But, you will be able to get your tickets starting June 1. Best of all, I will take care of leftover materials.

The location I’ve picked has free and ample parking. It’s also located next to public transportation and easy distance from a highway in north Baltimore City. Please tell your fiberly friends and feel free to share and repost the above graphic on your sewing / yarn guilds, blogs, facebook and instagram. The more that turn out, the better it will be!

Let me know if you have questions or ideas 😀

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Whatever Lola Wants: Victory Patterns 1005, Lola Sweatshirt Dress

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Four years after many a cute sewist made up the Lola dress from Victory Patterns I decided I needed a new sweatshirt dress in my wardrobe. I’ve made several before from the Italian magazine La Mia Boutique (consistently in navy and grey also 😄 #neverchange). It is in fact one of three outfits that a very fancy couple I know pointed as one of their favorites.

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For this pattern I made my regular round of adjustments. I sewed a 12 at the bodice grading to a 16 at the hip. I made a 3/4″ FBA using a princess seam method and a swayback adjustment using my old faithful method.

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I also lengthened the sleeves by 5″. I like 3/4″ but I thought this length a bit awkward.  I would make a deeper swayback adjustment next time… I suspect I did my usual 1″.

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I’m really glad I photographed this four months after making it. Because, it appears I put the pockets in at different heights at the front! I have worn this dress two dozen times and only noticed today while editing pictures!  The pockets gape/sag and I read many a review where the excess ease was removed. But, I actually like it. There isn’t much that will make my hip and thighs look slimmer. So, I’m embraced the structural look and went with it. But, it appears that the lower placed pocket does sag more.

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I know some women sized down for a more fitted look. But, I kind of like the causal looseness around my midsection. I could probably take an inch or so out if I wanted.

Issues: No mention of how much stretch the fabric should have or is drafted for. I also cut according to the layout. But, my crosswise grain had more stretch and maybe I should have / could have gone with that if I knew what it was drafted for.

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I ended up making two of these in a row after having finished my Cascade Duffle Coat and a wooly bomber jacket for Jordan. Why did I made two right in a row? Because after alterations it’s an easy sew. I needed winter clothes and why not? I’ve become chaste in middle age. Instead of sewing ALL THE THINGS I’d rather save some time and make several of one garment. It’s a really cute dress and I can see myself making more next winter.

** I used my phone as the remote for these photos and could actually see myself instead of guessing with the remote function. Photos took half the time and I liked 90% of them vs tossing 75%. And, I haven’t moved. These are at my office :-D.

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Slightly Dressy Spring Coat – Burdastyle 2-2011-125

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I’ve been calling this teal beauty a jacket… maybe because it’s lightweight so I don’t think “coat”.  But, it seems to clearly be a coat pattern. Discuss.

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As you see, I finished my spring jacket from the February 2011 issue of Burda! We were at my inlaws on Maryland’s Easter Shore for Passover and got to snap a few photos on the water.

I really wanted to try and push my skills and make a jacket with a bit more technique and time. So, this one took me a solid six weeks of work with many fidly bits.

This pattern tops out at 44 so I needed to grade out to about a 50 in the lower thigh. I also made a FBA, a swayback adjustment and added almost 2″ in width to the sleeves / bicep. I pretreated the fabric by sewing a mesh bag and washing in the washing machine.

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When I teach, I talk about when and why you would use Hong Kong or bias bound seams. I also do demos of flat fell seams and blind hemming But, I didn’t really have a good garment to show it off in. Now, I do! And, now I understand why garments with these techniques cost twice as much as they absolutely take twice as long!

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Interior details…

I used fusible interfacing on the center front, collar and pocket flaps. I do not have any interfacing in the chest, back, or hems. There are places where you can see the chest collapses a bit. But, I did not want to make a tailored spring / rain jacket and I wanted to leave it unlined to show off the reverse of this bonded fabric.

If you have this fabric, do not use fusible woven. Way too stiff. A nice weft fusible is the way to go. Press with a press cloth because the fabric shines on the non stripe side. And, don’t use too much heat or steam. The fabric is easily overworked and misshapen and the fabric will separate. If it does separate or crease, heat it back up, and press it back to gather with a clapper — leaving it in place until it cools.

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Sleeve insertion.

Well, that’s a tale of two cities! The (my) right sleeve was set with tie interfacing in the ‘tailored’ method. The cap pops and I had minimal issues setting it in. The fabric doesn’t have a great deal of ease and is like working with leather.

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The (my) left sleeve was set the traditional method and I’d broken a sweat by the time I was done. Either way, puckers sewn in to the fabric DO NOT PRESS OUT. Same with the bust darts. You can’t press shaping into them. So, I have perky darts due to the fabric and a collapsed cap on this side.

And, now I think because of the tie interfacing I probably cannot machine wash this coat 😭.

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There is a small drafting error with the coat collar in pattern 2-2011 #125. The collar stand and collar are too short by about 1.5″. It works out fine for me because I have a short neck and don’t like getting my foundation on my clothes. It just doesn’t meet closer to the middle as it shows in the line drawing.

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I mitered the back hem inside and  used a 2.5″ turn up. I wish it was 1.5″ to 2″. I think it would have been easier to have a nice hem. Not that the bottom is rounded. But, the fabric doesn’t ease well. I ended up making a blind hem on my blind stitch machine using nylon thread. While I only use this machine a few times a year I am always super pleased with the results.

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The only thing I REALLY wish I’d done is remembered this comment from Marcy when I finished my Cascade Duffle coat. The bottom fronts don’t meet the way I’d like.  This is for a couple of reasons I think….

  1. I make a too long a FBA at 1.5″. I need more width than length and forgot or don’t trust myself. So I end up with jackets, coats and dresses too long at center front

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2.)  If I’d read Marcy’s comment or remembered, I would have tried to cut the CF a little off grain to have the flaps meet better. I did add a covered snap. Let’s see how much I use it! Um, also — there’s a reason garments have snaps here and not buttons. ASK ME HOW I KNOW. 

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All that said, I think I don’t mind that much. Only in the light of posting it on the internet for all to see do I feeI must confess my crimes. I’ve wanted to make this pattern since it came out SEVEN YEARS AGO. The fabric has been in my stash for TEN YEARS. I really needed a spring coat to wear that wasn’t a totally casual item. And, I worked harder on this with finishing techniques than I may have on anything else. So, I will wear it for the six weeks a year it’s weather appropriate here in the Mid Atlantic!

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