Posted in sewing

Jalie 3889, The Mélanie Kimono Robe

Next to being on the Cashmerette Ipswich pattern cover, testing the Summer 2018 Jalie patterns was the biggest sewing secret I’ve had for MONTHS. I’m so happy I can share some of my projects with you. I don’t test often because there are so many things I want to sew for me. Testing well takes time and resources and I’m not generally in the habit of giving either away. But, I’ll test for friends when I can work it out because I love them and want them to succeed. Testing also helped me realize I needed to get better organized this year with my sewing. Between work, teaching and testing it was imperative I not suffer from pattern indecision.

Jalie Kimono Stars -65 Am I ever glad I didn’t miss out on the kimono trend! I’d sort of skimmed past a lot of these toppers the last year or so because they were TOO kimono or a a bit too “clothing as art” retired lady. But, when I had the chance to make up the new Mélanie Kimono from Jalie Patterns I could really see its potential as a beginner sewing class pattern to teach. And, I ended up with an easy to assemble, straight forward kimono pattern that I ADORE. I’ve been wearing this topper all over town the last two months.

26239078_2446341758923772_2070838488940572549_n

Also, language lesson: How did I not know ‘peignoir’ meant ‘robe’ in French? HOW? Because I want to teach this as a beginner class — but have a few extra touches, this took a *bit* more time than sewing as drafted.

Jalie Kimono Stars -89

First, I used French seams throughout. While the seam allowance is 3/8″ I went ahead and used 1/2″ seams for this. The fit is generous enough that the 1/4″ (total) difference doesn’t show.

Jalie Kimono Stars -109

And, I made a clean finish for my hems with a double turn under. The pattern has single folds for the hems.

Jalie Kimono Stars -32

This pattern is great. No interfacing needed for the pockets, neckband and waist tie which speeds up production. I was really nervous about looking like a walking piece of wearable art. But, in fact I feel really trendy but comfortable in this. This topper likely looks best with a very slim silhouette underneath. It can easily double as a robe if kimonos as daywear aren’t your thing. I like it so much and it comes together so easily I’m thinking of making one as a bridal shower gift for a friend!
Jalie Kimono Stars -19

The blue star fabric is a five-years-old Marc by Marc Jacobs yardage last used in my Webster Top. I have a scant few yards destined for a Springfield top.

Jalie Kimono Stars -78

I really like this kimono. I feel like it can work for business and pleasure. Or, lounging or some basic all-day swanning about.

Posted in sewing

Destash & Swap Registration Open

Registration is live for Destash Baltimore. This is a great time to meet regional sewists, destash some unloved fabric, books, yarn and patterns. AND, get to give someone else’s stash a new home.

You don’t have to be from Baltimore. But, please invite all your friends :-D. I’ve wanted to put together an event like this for years. Partly to meet more people in the area and mostly to destash some of my items that I didn’t want to go to waste.

See you there!

DestashBaltimore.Eventbrite.com

Event Flyee

SaveSaveSaveSave

Posted in sewing

Burdastyle 2-2011 #118: Dior Dart Linen Dress

Yellow Dior-2

I’d had my eye on this pattern since it came out back in February 2011. This year, I’m sewing from a plan. Well, I wrote up a list of all the patterns or fabric combos I wanted to make and this was at the top of my list.

118_tech_dwg_large

I’ve always liked the seaming in the front and the cut on sleeves. At the time, I also liked the boatneck. But, have come to realize that doesn’t work great on me. So, I lowered the neckline an inch.

Yellow Dior-7

The dress isn’t your typical sack. The Dior darts and princess seams provide some visual interest and fit around the bust. And, I wanted something easy I could wear on vacation to California.

There’s a note on this pattern to see the color section of the magazine for tips on sewing “Kimono Sleeves”. If you have the US version of this magazine, said color section does not exist. Luckily, Ann is Belgium sent me photos of her French instructions. And, I have to say I needed them. I don’t read French, but the photos are really helpful. Not that I got mine looking good 😂.

Yellow Dior-4

The problem with mine is I tried to be fancy and use different seam allowances for different parts. I think for the sleeves to go well, you need to use a consistent seam allowance on the undersleeve, front, back and side piece.

Yellow Dior-9

Sizing: I made a 44 grading to a 50 at the thigh (outside of the pattern range). I also made a swayback, protruding seat and 1.5″ full bust adjustment. To make a FBA on the Dior Dart I used this helpful information from Nancy K and made a Y alteration.

Yellow Dior-3

I ended up shortening the dress by 5″ to closer match the model. I think the cut line is marked incorrectly for the pattern and the first line (marked for a different model) is the correct hemline.

118_Dress_-_ON_SITE_NO_INSTRUCTIONS_large

That said, this is about one inch too short for me. Too short in part for comfort. But, also too short proportion wise. I think it would look best a little longer. I’ll still wear it though! But, next time will add a little length back.

This dress doesn’t photographs in a ‘flattering’ way. But, honestly, it’s comfortable, I love the color, I like how it fits and love it. I want to make it up again in a plaid I’ve had in my stash for YEARS and I’ll add a few inches back to the hemline.Yellow Dior-6

SaveSave

Posted in sewing

Sleeveless Season: Cashmerette Webster Top

Blue Webster

Oh, wovens… how I miss you! I spent last year making jeans, tee shirts and outerwear. But, this year I needed something light for our summer vacation to California and cuuuttte.

IMG_20180511_111108_097

I picked up the Webster when I was in Boston few months ago at Cashmerette HQ. So, while I technically didn’t pay for this pattern, all opinions are my own. And, my opinion is YASSS, Queen, slay!

Blue Webster-3

I love love love the neckline. The V is deep but doesn’t show cleavage. It’s beautifully flattering. The back is equally interesting. In fact, my friend who took photos exclaimed, “CUTE!!” when she saw the back.

Blue Webster-14

My Webster top is made up in a long stashed Marc by Marc Jacobs embroidered star voile. It’s lightweight with body and most of all is a solid that isn’t.

I did make some alterations for fit for my body that I’ll try and capture here. There is some video of it all (for the time being) on my Instagram page. If you go to my profile, under my name there’s a bubble that says “Webster Fit”.

  1. The front shoulder seam were rolling forward on me. So, I lengthened the front between the shoulder and bust by 1″ and shortened the back the same amount.
  2. 1/2″ swayback adjustment. These patterns have a sway back. I just need more
  3. Protruding seat adjustment. This added some length over my bum at center back and some width at the back side seam only.
  4. 1/4″ sloping shoulder adjustment (for a total of 1/2″)
  5. This pattern is a very loose casual fit. So, I used the 14 E/F which matches my full bust measurement of 43 and graded to a 12 in the waist / hip area even though I measure into a 16/18 in the hip.

I like that this pattern has an all-in-one-facing. That means no flipping out.

Blue Webster-17

I finished the insides with French seams to keep it neat.

Blue Webster-10

And, I loved this so much I immediately made a dress version which I’ll share soon!

** worn here with my Jalie stretch jeans in a cropped length