Posted in sewing

Pattern Review: Burda Magazine 1-2008-113

This dress is a loooong time coming. Like, super crazy really long. I wanted to make Burda 1-2008-113 since it showed up in previews in December 2007! And, it was TOTALLY worth the wait. What took so long to even start making it? I was obsessed with making it it in a brown twill with red zippers and top stitching. Except, the right fabric never materialized. Then, I decided it would totally work in dark dark denim with the same red details.

The fabric is from Joann’s maybe two summers ago? Cheap too. Like $3 a yard. I washed it three times to get all the overdye out and minimize shrinkage. It’s got a fair amount of lycra in it.

I stuck with the red topstitching using regular thread in the bobbin and top stitching thread in the needle.

I also saved myself a lot of time and heartache by setting up my vintage Morse to tackle top stitching duties. BTW, all my sewing machines are now along the right hand side of my blog.

I used two-tone, double topstitching on the sleeves and hems to mimic a jeans pattern.

Trena talked me out of a similar course on the other seams. It’s funny, I’m all about the gimic. She hates the gimic.

I made a FBA of 1/2 inch by slicing one inch under the armsyce and spreading a la Sandra Betzina’s directions for a princess seam.

I also made a 1 inch sway back adjustment. People, I hate showing photos of my back. LOL. Please note it is purposefully the only photo that will NOT enlarge upon clicking!

These buttons were made a few years ago when I made the Amy Butler Betty Shopper bag. I omitted the bias strips at the back dart, the fabric tabs for the zipper at the pocket, and the shoulder tabs. The pocket directions do seem daunting at first, but if you mark you stitching and placement lines accurately, it shouldn’t be a problem.

I did use pocketing material in the dress. The pockets though, pretty, but kind of impractical.

Or, I have monster hands. They just kind of fit in there snugly. I love the pocket trend. But, are we really *using* the pocket?

So, the thing about this dress is that you should muslin. I ripped this dress apart approximately three times. First, because I messed up the markings in the back. The second time, because I realized I also messed up markings in the front.

The third time, because the neck was gaping badly (see green arrows above) and I wanted to redo the topstitching along the front. I’ve sewn the buttons on now three times. It’s my fault. I’ve been eyeballing them out of laziness! But, I’ll get around to having them sorted out.

Overall, I am THRILLED with this dress. It feels young and flirty  but not silly. I would absolutely make it up again. It kind of goes to show how timeless Burda can be. I have one more project and a couple of gadgets to show before I leave for Montreal on Monday!

Posted in sewing

Making Pockets on Burda 1-2008-113

I finished my Burda 1-2008-113 dress today. Above, on the dress form. I’ll probably wear it to work on Friday and will take photos then. In the meantime, I thought I could show some photos of the pocket construction. Which for me, was the most intimidating thing going in to this pattern. Overall, it’s a neat design feature. But, you should make sure your dress fits before attempting as it makes it very difficult to make any adjustments after the are sewn. Also, I would interface the openings to keep everything nice and crisp. Finally, I would make the bindings smaller. I found it too chunky for my taste. I think a thinner binding would be more attractive.

Mark the seamline on the binding. Mark the binding placement on the front and back of dress.

You should have 1 cm wide space for the zipper tape to show through on the right side

The first round of topstitching secures the short side of the binding.

The second round of topstitching secures the pocket bags.

It was actually not that hard. I didn’t have to rip any of *this* out. Ok, seriously. I’m going to sew the buttons on to my Poet Blouse.

Posted in sewing

What I Did Wrong

So, my second project for the long weekend was to work on the #113 Burda dress from January 2008. The biggest problem I had with the dress is it takes an OBSCENE amount of time due to all of the top stitching. Luckily, I’m on two machines, but between the top stitching, sewing and serging / finishing — this dress sucked up a lot of time.

Imagine delight that it fit (considering I didn’t do a muslin and there’s very little room to alter due to the pockets). But, Ugh. Look at the back.

What went wrong? This. My bad marking.

The back of the raglan sleeve is supposed to go to seam #4. Not to the neckline.

I sewed it up to the neckline. Soooo, this concludes my sewing weekend. By the time I unprick the topstitching, serging and regular stitching, I’ll be too tired to do any more. Sewtis interruptus.