Posted in sewing

My JacketCoat: Burda Magazine 10-2010-107

While sitting at my desk wearing my Jacket/Coat, the scheduler says, “Oh, you still have your coat on. I guess your not planning on staying.” Hillarious. Yeah, it kind of looks like a coat. But, I’m wearing it as a jacket!! The fabric is really not that thick, but it is fulled so it appears to be thicker than it is. Later, she told me the contrast shawl collar looked like a scarf to her. Ha!

The pattern calls for wool velour. I’m not quite sure what that is. And, I honestly didn’t check the fabric suggestion before deciding to use this plum wool. I purchased it with Carolyn and Metro Textiles back in November 2007 at my first PR Weekend. Holy cow. I’d never spent so much money in my life on fabric. Hmm, happy to report that I’ve sewn all of those knits. And, now — just one of those wovens.  Oy.

My roots are awful. I swear I'm coloring them this week.

The pattern calls for a split collar. I’m not sure the design feature is noticeable enough to pursue it in future. I made mine in a contrast wool from the Carol Collection as I was short on material.

The entire coat is interfaced with a light knit fusible interfacing. The pattern called for the pockets, fronts, underams and upper sleeves to be interfaced.

Ha! I look like a flasher.

I did line the jacket. It’s not pretty (up close) but it’s done.  I don’t often make jackets nevermind line them. Mostly because of this hot mess. Maybe that’s why it’s taken me two years to try another.

The shoulders were too long on me by one inch. I reduced them 1/2 inch. That’s about the only alteration I’ve made (and could have taken more out of the right).

I made a two inch swayback adjustment.

From the side, it’s clear you are all right and I need to add length back to the bottom.

Carolyn is right. It’s so warm and cozy. Yet professional looking I don’t care if it looks like a coat or not 🙂

Posted in sewing

Working It Out

I’m just trying to boost my end-of-the-year numbers. Here’s what should be my last project of 2010.  The Burda 10-2010-107 Jacket I’m back to really working on my work clothes. Dresses are nice and all, but I really want to be layered in the winter and have some go-to jackets for when I need a sharper look. I also liberated three or four dresses from my closet this morning so I’m down to brass tacks and uggs.


That belt looks too thick, no?

The No. 107 jacket looked comfy and not too structured. Perfect for winter office wear. This was my first introduction to the new pattern sheets. I thought I was going to tear my hair out. As evidenced by all the wrong markings. HA!

At anyrate, I’ve made a 1.5 inch lengthwise FBA. I forgot to add width though. Boo! I’m hoping it’s cozy enough to accommodate.

I’ve also made a deep swayback adjustment. I don’t add length back to the hem when I make a FBA. Does anyone else?

I wanted it for a work blazer. But, maybe it was always meant to be a coat?

The fabric is wool that was meant to be a pant but I accidently fulled / felted last year when pre-treated. It has light knit interfacing throughout for support (the pattern called for interfacing the entire front). I only had 2 yards of fabric and I needed 2 5/8. Rather than cut it shorter, I cut in a single layer and had to do the facing in a contrasting fabric. And, well, I think it totally looks like a coat. But, it’s not thick and warm like a coat. I don’t have enough fabric to make a self tie belt.

  1. I don’t want to make it shorter. The pockets were sewn in the wrong place once and facing the wrong way twice. So, I ripped and sewed them back in four times. It’s below the hip and I like the look
  2. It may well look different with a belt. But, I wonder if it’s too structured for a belt to work?
  3. I could of course take in more along the darts for shaping. But, I’m not sure if that’s the issue
  4. It’s also definitely not ‘wrapped’ or crossing over enough in the front. I see that now in photos. That should help a bit.

So, I think my failure was in thinking it was a ‘blazer’ vs a coat / jacket. Did I just envision this all wrong? Or is this a case of wrong fabric?

I still have to cut out and sew the lining. And, find a belt. Either way — it’s getting finished.

The color below is a truer representation: