Bias is a surly beyotch.
When I first made this Patrones 252-30 skirt two years ago, It was too big and too long. When I made it this time, I sliced at the hip, and took out four inches of length (which brought a lot of the bias fullness up to my hips). I did not take two inches out of the waist thinking that would make up for any weight gain and give me room to wiggle since the first skirt still fits. But, and this is a BIG but, I stabilised the waistline with twill tape this time. I did not the first time. So, the bias waist (the first time) grew — making it too big. This time, it did not grow, making it the original size which is apparently too small by about four inches. Which means that in order for the skirt to fit this time, the waist line sat just under my breasts.
Call Carolyn on the way to see Inception (Great movie. Didn’t understand half of it.) and she suggested cutting down the waistband by no more than one inch. Brilliant. I do it.
The FREAKING skirt was now at last eight inches too big!!! Stupid beyotch bias.
I take in and take in — six inches give or take. Finally, it fits! But, it’s so stinking full now at the hips. Like all the width of the skirt is now at my waist / hip. And, the bias was hanging funky because of all the alterations. I put the zipper in twice because of a rookie mistake. One side seam is longer than the other. Whatever. I’m almost done. I put on the skirt. It fits! I can breathe! Then, the zipperhead pops off. SOB!
Uncle. I give up. I’m not going to re-insert a zipper for the third time in a yellow marked, wonky drape, skirt that makes m look like a wedding cake topper.
I love this pattern, but I’m done. It’s time for glass of wine and to pick another project.
I’m still working on my China capsule. This, is Patrones’ #30 skirt from issue #252 (January 2007). Projects like these remind me that I hate hemming. Nevermind hemming a circle skirt that is also cut on the bias. With insets. Insets that have pleats.
And, someday I’ll learn to stop marking fabric with colors that will likely not wash out (yellow on khaki). Doh. My working theory is that no one is going to be looking at my knees.
This Patrones skirt I’ve made before. And, hopefully I’ll suck it up and hem it over the weekend. But, for now, I’m off to see ‘Inception’.
Last night I hemmed my Roberto Musso Patrones skirt from issue # 252 (January 2007). I rather like this skirt. It’s fun to wear and has a throwback vibe. I wasn’t sure how to wear it at first without looking like a ball of fabric, but Carolyn reminded me that the full skirts from the 50s and 60s were always worn with form-fitting tops. I think it works if you have either no hips (ha!) or a well-defined waist.
Construction is simple, as long as you clearly transfer all the alphabet markings for matching up seams. I also suggest you lay out the pattern pieces first before you begin sewing. It kind of goes together like a puzzle with one pleated section and one banded section on each side of the skirt.
It’s basically a circle skirt with pleated insets and contrast bands. The challenging portion for new sewists would be sewing the corners of the insets in. There is also a TON of finishing inside the garment.
Because it’s a circle skirt it’s very full. If you choose to make this skirt or something similar, be sure to stabilise the waistband. You’ll also need to let it hang a day or so for the bias to fall.
I made a straight 40 (the equivalent of a BWOF 38) and found it large. I ended up taking about two inches out of the side before inserting my invisible zip. I think that’s the nature of the skirt not Patrones sizing. And mine is a little bulkier than the model’s.
Also, I think the skirt is a hair long. On the model it’s around the knee. If you want it shorter, you’ll need to do so on the pattern rather than after construction. Oh, mine is made from leftover black seersucker and shirting from other projects. I’m absolutely making this skirt again. I can picture many versions including a wool plaid this winter.
Here I am in the BWOF 5-2007-112 pants. They are made up from black on black seersucker. The lining is a pink poly/cotton batiste from Joann. They are really high waisted! Easily to my bellybutton. I did make the buttonhole in pink to try and infuse some interest in the pants.
I made a 1.5 inch full seat adjustment just to get the pant over my rear an in the vicinity of my waist. I went down to a 36 in the waist and up to a 42 through the leg. I, um, don’t think my rear is quite that pooky. I think there is some extra fabric there.
I did add 1.5 inch to the crotch point in the back. But, I think next time I will leave that off. They seem to have a little too much fabric under my bum.
I wore the outfit out tonight for my friend Sheryl’s birthday happy hour.
I have to say. These pants are so underwhelming. But, it’s fabulous to have a pair of pants that stay up at the waist and aren’t straining across my backside. I think with some tweaks these could become a good basic pattern. I really love the slope / flair.
Today, I pretty much got the first of the three skirts done. Since it’s mainly bias cut, it’s hanging now so the bias can drop. I’m planning on tackling the hem on Sunday or Monday.