Posted in sewing

Pattern Review: Patrones 267-13

This is my first non-Burda Foreign Pattern Magazines for 2010. If you recall, my sewing resolution is to not purchase fabric in 2010 and make every other garment or one a month from my assortment of La Mia Boutiques, Patrones, Mrs. Stylebooks, etc. I’ll have to check, but I think this is my second completed Patrones!  (**EDIT.  This is my *fourth*. I didn’t count my beloved Roberto Musso skirt,  Vero Mondo skirt and a Chloe skirt ) My first Patrones is a shirt two years ago. I seem to be a 42 in Patrones and most definitely need a FBA!

I think I’m going to keep up with the woven dresses! I love how professional they look. Yes, I will always have a soft spot for knits. But, for the daily work life, woven dresses are it. They seem so much more tailored and put together and a better substitute for wearing a suit.  You can see above that I’m imitating the model from #267 Patrones. I even found a smiliar style belt at Forever 21. But, truthfully, the dress might look better beltless after all the alterations I made.

The fabric is a poly/wool men’s suiting from my local Gus Woolen. It’s a men’s suit fabric store in downtown Baltimore. I like them for their non-traditional suiting geared to the black male  community.  But, they keep banker’s hours. You know, 10 to 3 on days that don’t end in ‘y’.  But, great great stuff and they sell loads of skirt lengths at a discount.

There is bagging at the waist because  I suspect that I put the waistband in upside down. One of the reasons the belt is not great is because of the gathering and wrinkles it can cause. I used pre-purchased red piping to pick up the red woven stripes in the suiting. You know, red is actually my favorite color — not pink. But, I really like pink accessories.

Pattern Alterations:  My colleague brought me several bras from her trip home to Ukraine.  Why? Because they fit well and are $20 a pop. But, they have made the bust in my last two garments crazy tight. So, on the Patrones #267-13 dress, I decided to attempt my first ever FBA.  Meh. I’ll do better next time 😉 For the rest of the dress I traced a size 42 and graded out by two inches at the thighs. I now think I could have cut a straight 42 as I took the dress in about two inches from the lower waist down. I also reduced the  length of the torso by one inch and think I could have cut an inch out of the skirt under the waist.

I made my typical swayback adjustment in the skirt. But, should have taken it out of the waistband. I also have come to the realization that many things are too long for me in the lower back. I’m going to alter for that soon.

I ended up not lining the dress. I made so many alterations to the dress that I could not take fixing the already-constructed lining.  So, I made 1.5 inch long facings at the neckline.

I also pegged the skirt because it was wide and kind of straight and made me look like a block.  But, something totally wonky happened. My right side seam is off by over an inch. No idea how that happened!

Overall, I’m pleased with the dress. There was WAY TO MUCH fussing for my taste. But, I just need to learn to make FBAs.  And make the darts actually aim at my bust point! That’ll make a huge difference 😉

I was asked about my shoes in another post. They are available from Aerosoles.

** EDIT: I agree. Red shoes would be great. I’m still on the hunt for a pair that I like 😉

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Setting In Sleeves

I do not like setting in sleeves. I’m all about sewing them in flat. I cannot get a smooth sleeve using that two rows of stitching, gathering and pinning nonsense. But, for the Patrones 267-13 dress it’s hard to avoid considering the matching of piping / seamlines needed. In Connie Long’s book ‘Easy Guide to Sewing Blouses and Shirts‘ she recommends using STET (sigh. I don’t own the book and can’t remember what this stuff is called. It’ll come to me by the time the day is over.)  to set in sleeves. This width is no longer readily available in the US.

So, on one of my rare excursions to Wal Mart I found a pretty good substitute.

I actually don’t know what it’s called. But, it’s a loose  nylon type netting in the sewing section. By cutting it on the bias, it approximates the weight and feel of STET.

You’ll want to cut it the length or somewhat shorter of the sleeve cap. Make it about two inches wide.

Using your longest stitch, sew the netting to the sleeve pulling as tightly as possible.

As you see, this automatically gathers the sleeve for you!

Pin in place and sew together with the gather side to the bottom.

Voila! Set in sleeve

Here’s where I am now. Sleeves are set in. I’ve taken two inches out from the waist and pegged the skirt. I still have some curve to remove from the hip and will need to stabilize the hem (it’s collapsing). I have removed 1/2 inch from the neckline.

I am not in love with this dress. But, I’m going to finish it. I might not even bother with the lining I’ve already made. I can’t bear to rip that apart making the adjustments above.

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What I’m Working On

I’m trying to stick with my 2010 sewing resolutions. No more fabric and using my non-Burda international magazines. The first one in that vein is from Patrones #267. My friend Beery bought this back from a Spain business trip in 2008.

The garment I want is model 13 (267-13). It’s a XX dress from the Joven edition. Does *anyone* know what size bust Patrones drafts for?

Here’s what I’ve got so far in a gray striped menswear fabric:

Despite making a muslin, this dress still needs some serious tweaking. So far I’ve made a colossally bad FBA. The darts are practically on my sternum. The fit in the waist is still pretty baggy (I may have flipped the midsection pieces). And I had to shorten the bodice by an inch since the mid-section was sitting on my hips. I made myself stop sewing at midnight. I really should have stopped at 11! The neckline is far to high and I don’t know how I feel about the fit through the skirt.

If I sew like a bat out of hell, I’ll get this done today. But, well. I have three Netflix gathering dust too.