Posted in sewing

Vogue 8120: Blue Silk Dupioni Blouse

My mom is always lamenting that she can never find nice blouses for a reasonable price at the mall.

So, I brought material from home down to Florida with me. After a run to Joann’s we picked out this Vogue  8120 blouse pattern (they were on sale this week).

I figured making her a blouse was a fair trade off for all the stuff I’ve lifted on this trip (digital camera, vintage pink pyrex casserole, off set spatula, slippers, potato masher….).

Instead of a muslin we did a quick pin fit. Man, I wish I could pin fit myself! What a time saver!  I took two inches of width out the back,  made a two inch swayback adjustment for her and added two inches at the front waist.

The silk is a black and blue crossweave from Fabric Mart. This silk frays badly and needs to be underlined for structural reinforcement. I’ve had garments from this type of material before that have ripped just from looking at it. This underlining gives it a beefier feel. Kind of like an unstructured jacket.

And, because I have no serger or zig zag machine in Florida, I was forced to sew French seams. I say ‘forced’ because in 20 years of sewing I’ve not made a single functional French seam.

Christina was so troubled by this that when I invited myself to her place in Seattle two years ago she literally sat me down to show me how they are made. It’s a pretty way to finish the seams. I even did them around the arm hole.

I used fabric selvedge along the biasy edges of the bodice. This gave me something to ease the fullness onto and keeps it from stretching out.

I made small ties on the inside to tie on the left.

And, my mom had this brooch since their time in Korea and added it to the top.

My mom asked if I was going to make her something every time I visited. I didn’t respond.

Here’s my dad inspecting my work. Honestly, I’m not sure he realized I actually knew how to sew, LOL. He told me ‘good job’. I suspect I’ll have to make something for him next.

I also bought another pattern for a skirt. But, I feel the need to sit around the pool on my last day here and do nothing. I hear it’s raining at home and there was a tornado warning. Plus, I had the asinine idea of leaving here at 7:00 a.m. so I could be at work around 10:00 on Monday. Which of course means I have to get up at 4:30. It seemed like a good idea at the time.

Posted in sewing

Pattern Review: BWOF Blouse 1/2008 #108

You Gotta Have Friends

It’s not often I am completely thrown by Burda directions. But, I couldn’t understand the placket directions for the life of me. Luckily, I was able to call DVMCindy in California. For some crazy wonderful reason, she had written all of the notes and directions out for this pattern and walked me through construction on the phone. Awesome.

This makes FIVE patterns I’ve sewn from the January 2008 Burda Magazine. Five! That’s a record for me. This swiss dot with brown polka dots was a pleasure to work with. And, I just love the polka  dots! It’s so fun and youthful!

I used hand basting to underline the blouse with cotton batiste. Both the batiste and swiss dot were purchased in NYC. I did not do French seams as many other sewists did. Why not? Because I don’t know how to do them. I know they are easy, but I’m not inspired to learn just yet. Besides, with the underlining, you couldn’t see through and my serger served me quite well.

I didn’t alter the sleeve for the bicep. But, I did sew the sleeve band with a 1/2 inch vs 5/8 inch sleeve allowance. It’s a touch snug. But, I can live with it.

I did make a 1/2 inch FBA using the Princess Seam Method from Fast Fit. The buttons are light pink from my ages old Fabric Mart $5 bundle.

The skirt is part of my China capsule. It’s the April 2002 BWOF pattern I made a few weeks ago. This photo was taken after several hours of sitting at my desk. The linen wears very very well. Overall, the blouse is a terrific pattern. I love it. But, I think it’s slightly too big on me. I recently started sewing a 40 instead of a 38 with a FBA. But, I think I should stick with the 38, make a FBA, a swayback adjustment and increase the hip width. The nice thing about it being slightly loose is that it will be that much cooler in China. I’ll likely wear it untucked while traveling. But, tucked in like above for work. This blouse also provides enough ease that I can cross my arms without feeling like I’m in a straight jacket.

In my last post I said I was done with my East Coast to Far East China capsule, but I lied. I’m trying to sew one more dress (I leave in just less than two weeks). I thought I could use something a touch more professional for the meetings I have to go to.  It’s all cut out, lining too. Let’s see what I can get done this weekend!