Posted in sewing

A Modified Cashmerette Montrose Top

Before we begin, my apologies for the poor quality of the photos. I loaned my SLR to a friend traveling with her family and my Pentax point and shoot with remote control stopped working a few months ago. I’m using a borrowed point and shoot camera on a timer and it focused on everything behind me in all 200 photos I took. These were the least offensive of them.

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A few months ago a busty student asked me about making the Grainline Scout Tee — a woven tee shirt. I told her if she hated darts and her breasts then go right ahead. A week later Chasmerette released the Montrose Top — a woven tee shirt with darts that can accommodate up to an H cup. Clearly, I spoke this into existence.  And, I’m so glad I did!

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I made up my version in a lovely woven vintage Japanese print gifted to me over ten years ago from Sue V. in Los Angeles. Her Japanese – American neighbor was having a yard sale and she posted a few yards for me. This fabric has been waiting for just the right project and this was it. The simple garment shape really allows the print to shine. After posting on Instagram I learned the prints aren’t balls of yarn, but Japanese temari balls.

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For my version, I sewed a 14G/H, modified the sleeve to a bell shape and added a 2″ exposed facing at the neckline. Since I made this two months ago, I’ve sewn with a few more Cashmerette patterns and find my sizing with a 43″ full bust is best in a 14E/F.

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2″ exposed facing

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This is also the pattern where I learned I need to make a full seat and additional swayback adjustment in Cashmerette patterns. A swayback alone would take care of the folds at my waistline. But, it wouldn’t help the hem from getting caught on my protruding seat. That requires more length and some width at the back hip.

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I finished my insides with French seams. When combined with this facing treatment the inside is almost as beautiful as the outside.

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While this pattern is very basic, it throws open the door of woven shirt possibilities. It’s a good base for adding design touches where a lot of the hard work is done for you in the bodice department. I can’t wait to play around with it some more.

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Summer Dress Ready: Cashmerette Webster Top / Dress

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If you don’t recognize my glasses that’s because they are my progressive lens. I’ve had them for two years and finally broke down and started wearing more often because I enjoy being able to actually see 😭

It feels like a minute since I made a fun summer dress. I spent last year making jeans, tee shirts and outerwear. But, this year I needed something light for our summer vacation to California. I made the Webster Top first and really honestly fell in love with it. I immediately cut out the dress version in a butterfly rayon from Cotton + Steel. I love prints. I love butterflies. Well, I probably don’t like real life butterflies because they are bugs. But, I love them rendered in fabric (when they aren’t too lifelike).

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As stated in my Webster Top review, I didn’t pay for the pattern. I picked to up back in February when I was visiting Cashmertte enterprises. All opinions are my own. And, if my house were to catch on fire I would replace this pattern in a heartbeat.

I’m really happy to have a flowy summer dress where my bra straps don’t show! I love love love the neckline. The V is deep but doesn’t show cleavage. It’s beautifully flattering.

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I did make some alterations for fit for my body. But, since they are the same as I made for the Webster Top, I’m putting alterations at the end of this post. The only thing different is I shortened my skirt by 1.5″ so it would hit just above the knee.

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For sure this my new go to summer dress pattern. It really might be an unsung hero in the Cashmerette lineup.


Alertations

There is some video of it all (for the time being) on my Instagram page. If you go to my profile, under my name there’s a bubble that says “Webster Fit” or use the l

  1. The front shoulder seam were rolling forward on me. So, I lengthened the front between the shoulder and bust by 1″ and shortened the back the same amount.
  2. 1/2″ swayback adjustment. These patterns have a sway back. I just need more
  3. Protruding seat adjustment. This added some length over my bum at center back and some width at the back side seam only.
  4. 1/4″ sloping shoulder adjustment (for a total of 1/2″)
  5. This pattern is a very loose casual fit. So, I used the 14 E/F which matches my full bust measurement of 43 and graded to a 12 in the waist / hip area.
  6. The skirts was a little long on me so I shortened the hem band by 1.5″. I like a skirt that hits right above my knee.

I like that this pattern has an all-in-one-facing. That means no flipping out.

Posted in sewing

Sleeveless Season: Cashmerette Webster Top

Blue Webster

Oh, wovens… how I miss you! I spent last year making jeans, tee shirts and outerwear. But, this year I needed something light for our summer vacation to California and cuuuttte.

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I picked up the Webster when I was in Boston few months ago at Cashmerette HQ. So, while I technically didn’t pay for this pattern, all opinions are my own. And, my opinion is YASSS, Queen, slay!

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I love love love the neckline. The V is deep but doesn’t show cleavage. It’s beautifully flattering. The back is equally interesting. In fact, my friend who took photos exclaimed, “CUTE!!” when she saw the back.

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My Webster top is made up in a long stashed Marc by Marc Jacobs embroidered star voile. It’s lightweight with body and most of all is a solid that isn’t.

I did make some alterations for fit for my body that I’ll try and capture here. There is some video of it all (for the time being) on my Instagram page. If you go to my profile, under my name there’s a bubble that says “Webster Fit”.

  1. The front shoulder seam were rolling forward on me. So, I lengthened the front between the shoulder and bust by 1″ and shortened the back the same amount.
  2. 1/2″ swayback adjustment. These patterns have a sway back. I just need more
  3. Protruding seat adjustment. This added some length over my bum at center back and some width at the back side seam only.
  4. 1/4″ sloping shoulder adjustment (for a total of 1/2″)
  5. This pattern is a very loose casual fit. So, I used the 14 E/F which matches my full bust measurement of 43 and graded to a 12 in the waist / hip area even though I measure into a 16/18 in the hip.

I like that this pattern has an all-in-one-facing. That means no flipping out.

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I finished the insides with French seams to keep it neat.

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And, I loved this so much I immediately made a dress version which I’ll share soon!

** worn here with my Jalie stretch jeans in a cropped length

Posted in sewing

Cashmerette Springfield Top

*ETA: Jenny of Cashmerette reached out to me about what I thought was a mismatched yoke in the pattern draft. Nope. The pattern is fine. The mistake was mine.  Despite having measured and traced the pattern several times in two different sizes, I managed to insert the center back upside down during five different versions of the pattern 😳 That made for the mismatched seam allowance that I noted in an earlier version of this post. I’m removing this post as it’s not an accurate review of the pattern or my alterations. The flipped pattern piece likely caused my fit problems in the back and this post should reflect sewn correctly garment.

My resulting top is the bomb diggity though, so I’m leaving a photo of it up until I get around to sewing this again.

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Posted in sewing

Cashmerette Patterns Concord Tee – Review

Hot time, summer in the city and all that, eh? In April, we went to Santa Fe for my 40th birthday. The night of my birthday dinner I did a wine pairing at a fancy Santa Fe restaurant. While I like my drink, I’m not a big drinker, but at the price point for the meal, I drank every last overpriced drop.

A few days after said dinner, the Concord Tee from Cashmerette patterns showed up in my mail box. Initially startled, I foggily remembered ordering it the night of said matched wine impaired dinner.  Apparently, you can drunk purchase.

I was drawn to the Cashmerette line for the lack of an FBA. I mean, I can make them. But, I don’t like it. For my muslin, I cut an E/F cup (I’m a 34G bra) with a 12 bodice, grading out to a 16 at the hip ( For reference, these days I’m sewing a 40 in Burda on top w. a 1.5 – 2 inch inch or so FBA and a 40 grading to a 46 on the bottom.) . My bust measurement is spot on for Cashmerette’s 12 E/F. But, my waist and hip fell between the 14 and 16.

While the bust generally fit, I found overall the shirt was bigger/ had more ease that I wanted. In addition, the front neckline was really wide on me so that my bra would show and a little low – just a sliver of cleavage. I also noticed that there’s a bit of extra fabric width between my bust and shoulders. Plus, the shoulders are a hair too wide for me as drafted.

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For my additional versions, I raised the neckline 1/4 inch and sewed 12; grading to just a 14 at the high hip.  Much better (didn’t make the shoulder adjustment yet).

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But, here in  these sitting photo, you can see what I mean about there being a little more length or width than I need between the upper bust and the shoulder.

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And, I can’t bend over in the v-neck version without exposing myself.

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I’ve made about four of these shirts in the scoop and v-neck, medium length and short sleeved. I’ve since altered the pattern for what I think will work best of taking out that 2 cm of gaposis but don’t have more fabric to test it in. I’ve also narrowed the shoulder 1/4 inch. Next time I get my hands on some cotton knits, I’ll make up a few more too.

Oh, I initially sewed the muslin as a tunic. Which I didn’t care for on me. But, I didn’t save a photo because I’m an idiot.

As for the instructions, I kind of just glanced at them. The pattern provides a lot of handholding which an intermediate to advanced seamstress might find unnecessary. The pattern has V-neck instructions I’ve not seen before. I used my TNT v-neck method from the Sewing Athleticwear from the Singer Sewing Reference Library.

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For my gray scoop neck version, I bound the neckline also using instruction from the Sewing Athleticwear volume of the Singer Sewing Reference Library. I did them this way because cotton knits tend to stretch. And this is a way of having a nice, snug  yet still stretchy neckline. It’s a really pretty and very neat finish that I like doing.

Now, the $18 elephant in my room. Is this pattern worth it? For ease of use, absolutely. It’s nice to have a dartless tee that actually fits. And, while I need a few small alterations for it to be my ideal, that’s nothing compared to starting from scratch with a B or C cup pattern. Plus, it’s great when a pattern fits you out the envelope. But, in my view they really aren’t supposed to if you want the best fit possible 🙂