Bali, Cosmo Dress and A Little Knittin’

I’m heading to Bali, Indonesia with a friend in less than two weeks. She’s going to Nusa Dua for work. I’m along for the ride and paid-for hotel room. Jordan will be in trial so I think he’s relieved I’ll be out of his hair.  Among the activities I’ve planned for myself, I’m most excited about an all day textile tour. Bali is home to batik, ikat and what we know as Dutch Wax Prints.

Balinese Songket

It’ll probably rain most of the time I’m there. But, as long as I don’t get malaria or Hep A, I can’t say that I care.

I have a few things I’d like to sew before the trip (rash guard, swim skirt, rain bonnet). But, let’s face it. I’m not sewing much of anything these days. So, I won’t bore you with my whimsical ideas and will *maybe* have something to show from exotic locales when I’m home.

Any Bali tips for me? I’m going to take a cooking class, a surfing class and a spa day. We’ll also be doing some biking when she’s done working at the end of the trip. Any fabric store I won’t be able to resist? Tips on bargaining and what I should pay? Give me all the tips, please.

An Australian in my office told me to not act like a Bogan. That was his big tip <– If this is an offensive phrase, please tell me *now*.


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In other sewing news, my most made pattern, the OOP Hot Patterns Cosmopolitan dress is going to have a limited  100 pattern reprint.  You may recall that I have the silk jersey pre-treated and waiting for me to make this for the fourth? Fifth time? Reasons I love this pattern: minimal if any FBA needed, defined waist, great neckline for me… it’s the ultimate dress for an hourglass.


I’m pretty obsessed with knitting you guys. I’m working on a University of Michigan themed scarf for Jordan. And by working on it, I mean I’ve finally figured out the design, how to make fair isle and when to change colors on my machine  :-)  Here’s a photo of the swatch I worked up.  I won’t be able to look at this again until I get back from Indonesia. And, if that’s anything like my trip to Egypt or China, I’ll need a week or more to recover from aggressive food poisoning and jet lag:-)

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Two Hot Patterns Cosmopolitan Dresses

I forgot how much I love the Hot Patterns Cosmopolitan Dress. And, I am apparently never going to make good on my commitment to swear off poly knits.  I made this dress twice over the weekend and twice about seven years ago. Spring is slowly coming and I wanted to try this dress out again in poly before I cut into silk jersey.

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While OOP, it’s readily available on Etsy and Ebay (and I suspect a lot of stashes). A newer alternative might bethe Lady Skater dress. Very similar lines I think.

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Likes:

  • Bust darts for the win!
  • Defined waist band with great shaping.
  • LOVE the scoop neckline.
  • Somehow, no ‘real’ FBA needed for me. But, I added 1/2 inch of length to the bodice on the blue and gold version. The waistline  seam wasrightundermybewbs <– See what I did there?

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Alterations:

  • Shortened bust and back darts by 1/2 inch
  • Raised neckline by 2.5 inches (might lower it 1/2 inch)
  • Made more of a U than V shape to the neckline
  • Added five inches to the shorter length (might cut that an inch)
  • Cut the back on the fold

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Construction Stuff:

  • Skipped the facings and self-lined the bodice and waistband. I wanted a beefier top so my newly acquired back ripples aren’t on display.

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  • Used $1 a yard tricot to line the skirt. I hate clingy knit skirt. Not cute.
  • Did not hem a t’ing. It’s a knit! I hate hemming knits. Even with a coverstitch.
  • Reduced the enclosed seam allowance at the waist and neckline to 1/4 inch
  • Sewed on my sewing machine and finished on my serger

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Fabric:

Both fabrics were purchased and sewn within the last six months. The grey is a poly knit from FabricMart (no longer available). It had a coordinating mini print too. That would have been my waistline and sash (or sleeves too??)  But, PEOPLE BOUGHT ALL OF IT before I could get some. The blue and gold is from Jomar in Philadelphia. I like the composition of the grey fabric better. Much beefier. I like the colors on the blue and gold better (and they are my sorority colors Eee-Yip!).

Dislikes

I’m still working on the shape of the neckline. I want a very distinct U. I might cut the bodice one last time from some scraps to see if I have got the look I want.

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No ‘real’ photos of me in the dress. Sunday is a hair wash day and it’s still too dark to take photos when I get home from work in the evening. But, here’s an elevator pic I posted on Instagram. Still wearing boots in the end of April if you can imagine. I got a gabillion compliments yesterday. Probably because I’ve only worn jeans and sweaters the last six months.

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And for those of you who have texted, tweeted and emailed about the truly sad and sobering state of affairs in Baltimore city right now and the foolishness that persists, Jordan and I okay. I’m at work. We’re walking our dog at night and sleeping in our home.

I Totally Want a Knitting Machine

A few years ago there was a train wreck of a reality show about a knit bikini designer in LA. All her samples were made on a knitting machine. Until I got a glimpse on that show, I had no idea knitting machines existed. And lately, I’ve been thinking a lot about getting one for myself. But, a few ‘issues’. Only two companies still make metal-bed knitting machines for the home market (which would allow me to do ribbing). One is a newish Chinese company that clones Brother knitting machines and the other is Silver Knitting (Silver Reed/Studio/Singer) which has a long history of machine making. But, after seeing a machine knitting demo today, I think I want a pre-owned Brother with ribber. A new machine is just way out of my budget. Used machines appear to be plentiful on eBay, easy and Craigslist. But, finding one in good working order can be harder. And, I’m not really clear on what they should cost. Especially considering I know *nothing* about how they work. And, they don’t seem as easy to repair as vintage sewing machines. I decided it might be best for me to get a demo from a knitting machine instructor, so I would at least know what I was looking for and what gauge knitting machine (standard or  bulky) I would want. I went to Woolstock north of Baltimore City where the owner, Leslye Solomon, is a machine knitting instructor and author.  photo IMG_20150411_114659352_HDR_zpsn8712bjn.jpg It was a GREAT demo. I mean, I have no idea which gauge machine I want because I liked them both for different reasons. But, the instructor is a big fan of Brother knitting machines (no longer made) and sells the Chinese clone. I feel totally iffy on spending that much money on a new hobby and really iffy on buying a clone.

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Standard gauge with fair isle motif

So, I’m on the hunt for a vintage Brother knitting machine and ribber that actually work (the nearest knitting machine repair shop is two hours from me in Pennsylavania). I’ve got a few online searches set up for one and hope to find a late model Brother and ribber by the end of the year. Gauge? TBD. But, After this demo, I know at least how the machine should work (which I didn’t be fore) and what it should be able to do.

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Bulky gauge with fair isle on the left and sample ‘lace’ and cables on the right

Unlike sewing blogs, machine knitting blogs don’t seem to be as abundant? I’m guessing because machine knitting’s hey dey was in the 80s and before and the women who machine knit aren’t really into blogging? Within my own feed though, I did find four machine knitters, Rachelle at Smoking Needles, Petit Main Sauvage, Kay The Sewing Lawyer and Kathryn from I Made This. Plus, this really interesting article by Karen at Did You Make That? The machines don’t seem to be as popular here on the east coast of the US. But, in the pacific northwest and midwest, business is booming! Plus, in the UK and Europe, there seem to be quite a few machine knitters. I’m assuming the climate has a lot to do with this. There’s also a super active Yahoo group and Facebook group. Great for inspiration photos. I also found a slew of people to follow on Instagram to see their knitting machine work.

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Ribbing along the bottom and stripe sample above

So, what are my machine knitting goals? Pretty modest I think. 1. I’d like to make a couple of scarves a year. I love scarves and manage to lose them more often than I care to admit. Jordan likes scarves too in bright colors but short of cashmere ($$$) good scarves seem hard to find 2. Two sweaters a year would be amazing to me. I LOVE sweaters. I’ve been buying vintage from the 80s sweaters from ebay and the thrift store and trimning them down to size. Why? Because they were actually made of wool instead of cotton or acrylic.

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20 rows in less than three minutes!!

3. A pair of socks every now and then. In winter, I live in wool socks from REI and such. I wear boots most of the winter and would love warm, cute socks. 4. Occasionally, my own knit fabric to do cut and sew projects from. I am able to get great sweater knits at Mood when I go to NY. But, the pilling factor is a gamble. I don’t know how often I would do this. But, it’s nice to know I might have the option of making my own fabric.

Don’t worry. Sewing is still my first love! And, as Amanda pointed out to me yesterday, yarn is expensive.I also muslined my Hot Patterns Cosmopolitan dress over the weekend. I need to raise the neckline another 1.5 inch and shorten the darts. And, I want a slightly less ‘scoop’ to the neck line. So, I’ll do one more version in a poly knit before cutting into my silk jersey.

20150411-DSC_0125 photo 20150411-DSC_0125_zpshp0jhky9.jpg Unfortunately, it’s too low cut to keep as wearable. But, I really ended up liking the scrap fabric combo! And, I could not love this pattern more. So, any other machine knitters out there? Any advice for me?

HP Cosmopolitan #3

I’m all done with the HP Cosmopolitan dress. But, it’s not for me.

Why not? I forgot that I added three inches in length to my version so it’s super short and it’s just really, really LOUD on me.  It’s also not work appropriate at this length and the proportions are just wrong at this length. But, for my mom who is several inches shorter, it’ll be perfect. She can wear it to lunch with Trudy and Jeremy. You know, I always saw this fabric as a maxi dress. But, I’m over maxi dresses for 2010.

The fabric is super thin and white. So, I lined the bodice with a chocolate colored tricot that I stocked up on at $1.99 a yard in Panama last August. It’ll also need a slip for the skirt. It just clings to all the wrong parts of me in this fabric weight. Another reason I should give it to my mom. Slips don’t bother her and she’s got non-existent hips.

I understitched the bodice lining so it wouldn’t show through. And, I stabilized the neckline of the chain link fabric with tricot interfacing. I also cut the sleeves shorter to suit the hem length of the dress better. And, as usual, I don’t hem my knits😉

This is the second failed dress my mom has inherited from me. So far, no complaints from her! I still love this pattern. Just not with this fabric at this length.

The Internet Made Me Do It

Well, I’ve spent the past month avoiding the Hot Patterns site because there was easily over $100 worth of patterns I wanted to order. But, today the CraftStylish blog (need to switch my bloglines feed to that from SewStylish) has an interview with Trudy Hanson from HotPatterns. (that’ s the HotPatterns Cosmo above)

Well, I’ve decided that’s a sign and I’ve placed an order for the two Hot Patterns that I feel I cannot live without. Must do my part to support women owned business, right? heh.

The Jeanius Jean and the Wong-Singh-Jones Kimono Wrap Dress will be in my hot little hands very, very soon. Ask me what my Blackberry roaming charges from Israel were tracking Ann’s progress on the Jeanius Jeans last October.

What have I put on hold for even longer? The Portebello Road Coat (need to find faux shearling), the Riviera Kiss Me Coat (a real contender for a rain coat) and the Riviera Sailor Pants (check out these from Anthropologie , the North Star Sailor Pants) . Hmmm, that’s three I want. Just the right number for a buy two get one free special. I’m just sayin’…

In other sewing news, I’ve got several projects in various stages of not being done. A McCalls dress (cut and partially sewn), an old BWOF top (cut), a new BWOF knit top (traced), a Patrones vest (traced), and a BWOF vest (traced).

Oh! And friend is back from Spain and has three Patrones waiting for me. I should get ahold of those tomorrow!

Oh! Oh! Have pretty, pretty, tone on tone white silk from another friend back from China. That might get moved to the top of my sewing list.

Oh! Oh! Oh! If you haven’t already, please pay Marji a visit. She’s laid up at home from an inline skating incident. But, she’s giving me some great black-tie dress advice (yeah, I need another one before fall).

And finally, thank you for the comments on my pants! I’m wearing them today and they are just a delight to wear. I’m looking forward to my next pair. Proably in a black-on-black seersucker.

Perspective

I realize that it’s a little hard to tell quite how large the Betty Shopper bag by Amy Butler is. So, I asked a woman in my office to shoot a photo of me with it today.

I don’t think it’s crazy big. But, I have been describing it as my ‘suitcase’ or generally referencing it as ‘luggage’. Other than a basic inability to find my keys in it, it’s a great work bag.

Today actually felt like Spring and I wore my Hot Patterns Deco Vibe Cosmopolitan Dress today.  I forgot how fantastic this pattern is. I hope I can get around to making another version of it this year. You know it’s a good dress when three straight men tell you they like your dress!