Posted in sewing

Button Front Skirt: Burdastyle 9-2009 #125

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About 20+ years ago I had a thrifted a-line skirt made from denim with buttons up the front. I’m not sure whatever happened to that skirt. But, I have noticed these skirts are all the rage lately and it seemed like a perfect summer skirt.  Enter BurdaStyle 9-2009 #125

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A really lovely basic skirt. It’s made up a few ways in the magazine including leather with the front closures or with a side zip in three different lengths.

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For my first version (because of course I made two) I used some leftover orange and cream stretch twill from the creamscicle dress I made six years ago.

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I sewed a 40 at the waist grading out to a 46 at the lower thigh. I also made swayback adjustment but totally forgot to add the inch I took out from the waist back to the skirt hem. So, it rides up a little in the back :-/ Also, my fabric is stretch so it flares a bit more than the pattern draft calls for.

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When sewing a skirt without a waistband, it’s inherently going to stretch as it’s all bias. So, you’ll want to use twill tape in the waist seam allowances or be sure to double stitch the waistline. Since I was making mine from denim and not leather, I also interfaced the front fold extension.

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The insides are all serged. It would be very pretty if I’d bound the insides (or useful if I’d taken a photo of the insides…)  But, I didn’t. I paired this skirt with my summer sweater made from orange cotton. It’s slouchy and comfy with this more casual skirt.

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Blue Denim:

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I wanted a skirt reminiscent of a traditional denim skirt and mimicked my high school skirt.  And, I wanted it to be casual enough to wear with some of the graphic tees I have but never wear (because I don’t have anything to wear them with).  My only additional alteration with this version was to add an extra inch in length to the skirt overall, but of course not to the center back to make up for my swayback adjustment. Sigh.

Jordan thinks these skirts are shorter than I normally wear. He claims I like to cover my knees. But, I wanted something short for summer that subbed in for actual shorts 🙂

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For this version, I used really cute donut jeans buttons. I used dark grey topstitching thread and it pulls the nickel of the buttons in nicely. All but two of these buttons popped off while wearing or putting on the first few times.

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Overall, a nice little summer skirt pattern. And, for once I am on trend!  Plus, you know I love anything even vaguely nautical 🙂

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This is an embarrassingly bad salute. I am clearly out of practice.



Posted in sewing

Pattern Review: Burda Magazine 1-2008-113

This dress is a loooong time coming. Like, super crazy really long. I wanted to make Burda 1-2008-113 since it showed up in previews in December 2007! And, it was TOTALLY worth the wait. What took so long to even start making it? I was obsessed with making it it in a brown twill with red zippers and top stitching. Except, the right fabric never materialized. Then, I decided it would totally work in dark dark denim with the same red details.

The fabric is from Joann’s maybe two summers ago? Cheap too. Like $3 a yard. I washed it three times to get all the overdye out and minimize shrinkage. It’s got a fair amount of lycra in it.

I stuck with the red topstitching using regular thread in the bobbin and top stitching thread in the needle.

I also saved myself a lot of time and heartache by setting up my vintage Morse to tackle top stitching duties. BTW, all my sewing machines are now along the right hand side of my blog.

I used two-tone, double topstitching on the sleeves and hems to mimic a jeans pattern.

Trena talked me out of a similar course on the other seams. It’s funny, I’m all about the gimic. She hates the gimic.

I made a FBA of 1/2 inch by slicing one inch under the armsyce and spreading a la Sandra Betzina’s directions for a princess seam.

I also made a 1 inch sway back adjustment. People, I hate showing photos of my back. LOL. Please note it is purposefully the only photo that will NOT enlarge upon clicking!

These buttons were made a few years ago when I made the Amy Butler Betty Shopper bag. I omitted the bias strips at the back dart, the fabric tabs for the zipper at the pocket, and the shoulder tabs. The pocket directions do seem daunting at first, but if you mark you stitching and placement lines accurately, it shouldn’t be a problem.

I did use pocketing material in the dress. The pockets though, pretty, but kind of impractical.

Or, I have monster hands. They just kind of fit in there snugly. I love the pocket trend. But, are we really *using* the pocket?

So, the thing about this dress is that you should muslin. I ripped this dress apart approximately three times. First, because I messed up the markings in the back. The second time, because I realized I also messed up markings in the front.

The third time, because the neck was gaping badly (see green arrows above) and I wanted to redo the topstitching along the front. I’ve sewn the buttons on now three times. It’s my fault. I’ve been eyeballing them out of laziness! But, I’ll get around to having them sorted out.

Overall, I am THRILLED with this dress. It feels young and flirty  but not silly. I would absolutely make it up again. It kind of goes to show how timeless Burda can be. I have one more project and a couple of gadgets to show before I leave for Montreal on Monday!