Posted in sewing

Ginger Jeans Muslin #2

I didn’t think it would take me another month before I worked on my second muslin for the Ginger Jeans. I’ve been taking weekly machine knitting lessons and practicing what I learn during the week. So, that’s taken up all my free crafting time. To recap, I’m working on a muslin for Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans, high waist, skinny view.

20150823-DSC_0223 photo 20150823-DSC_0223_zps05xs8bon.jpg

I wanted to try one alteration at a time for these jeans as I was worried about doing too many at once and not nailing down the fit issues. For reference, I’m sewing a size 16. For this version, I:

  • Made the suggested full thigh adjustment featured here on The Sewing Divas blog.
  • Took two inches out of the yoke
  • Took three inches from the waistband at center back.
  • Shortened the leg at the knee by three inches. I’m going to add another inch back in.
  • I also ended up taking about 1/4 inch out on each lower hip — just below the pocket bags after sewing.

20150823-DSC_0221 photo 20150823-DSC_0221_zpsp3zohobs.jpg

The fabric is a mix of stretch denims I picked up a few weeks ago. They didn’t have enough of any one fabric for me to get a full pair of jeans. But, I liked the quality (nice and hefty. the way jeans used to be) and the price and decided it was fine to mix and match like for a muslin. The instructions for the pattern are really good and the sew along is very very helpful.

20150823-DSC_0242 photo 20150823-DSC_0242_zpsaa8vw6qy.jpg

My back pockets should be closer together. But, I think they are evenly spaced,so score! Sadly, photos don’t lie and I think my first muslin without the forward thigh adjustment looked better. Here, I’ve got mom butt. I asked Jordan what he thought and all he noticed were the back wrinkles.

20150823-DSC_0318 photo 20150823-DSC_0318_zpsfd97aoue.jpg

20150823-DSC_0320 photo 20150823-DSC_0320_zpspkec8vyi.jpg

I see folds all along the inside of my leg in sort of an X shape. I think calls for a full inner thigh / knock knee adjustment. I also don’t like how these shape under my butt either. But, that could be middle age approaching. That said, I usually really like how I look in jeans. So, in keeping it 100, I admit these aren’t working– yet.

20150823-DSC_0261 photo 20150823-DSC_0261_zpssbisphgd.jpg

20150823-DSC_0317 photo 20150823-DSC_0317_zpsf4vmnmcz.jpg
lightened so you could see the wrinkles in shadow

** Edited to add side seam photos

20150823-DSC_0266 photo 20150823-DSC_0266_zpstqiqz2o5.jpg

20150823-DSC_0290 photo 20150823-DSC_0290_zpsbz4xgjgr.jpg

20150823-DSC_0294 photo 20150823-DSC_0294_zps8avlkq0l.jpg

So, I’m going to still wear these because I have no more hole-free RTW jeans left in my drawers. I’m going to make these up again without changing the front leg and give the knock knee adjustment a try. I do really like the front. I think I have a little extra fabric between the abdomen and the crotch point. I like to think I need a flat abdomen adjustment. But, probably not as my abdomen is most def not flat.

20150823-DSC_0269 photo 20150823-DSC_0269_zpsvd8xldfy.jpg

Advertisements
Posted in sewing

Ginger Jeans Muslin #1

Thank you for all the helpful feedback and thoughts on the crotch curve for my Ginger jeans. Unfortunately, a full Saturday prevented my from watching the Peggy Sayer’s workshop live. But, i do plan to watch it this week.

Sunday, I worked on my first muslin. I decided to make zero alterations to the pattern just so I could see what I was working with. For this version, I used a khaki denim with stretch from my stash. I think it’s from Joanns a few years ago.

Also, the photo quality isn’t that great. When you ask someone (Jordan) to take photos of your butt, they take it quite literally.

 photo USER2336_zps4u6qgacq.jpg

Let me say that when I put the muslin on initially, I was immediately pleased. I really like the way my thighs look from the front (not like saddlebags). And, there is no weird pulling at the crotch. Plus, the side seams hang straight on me. The front knee wrinkles came after I bent down in these. This fabric has quite a bit of stretch. So, while I would actually want my jeans a hair snugger, my real fabric has less stretch than this. So, I don’t want to play around with the size too much.

 photo USER2333_zpsw71xqzqo.jpg

From the side, I think I have some good lift. But, my need for a swayback adjustment is obvious. And, I may need to go down a size in the waist as I made a straight 16.

 photo USER2334_zps7dknkvcq.jpg

 photo USER2340_zps5sz6yvcp.jpg

From the back, I also still think I’m winning in the rear department. But, I do have some wrinkles around my bum.  The wrinkles at my knees  went away when I rolled up the pants another roll. They are long for me. If I tried these on in the store, I would think they were pretty good. But, because we sew, we can do a little better, right? The question is, are these bad wrinkles under my butt or wearing ease from wearing a slim cut garment.If I had to guess, I think it’s a slight protruding seat issue.  I FaceTimed Trena and we think the undercut wrinkles are wearing ease. But, again, totally open to suggestions!

So, I’m going to make a big swayback adjustment, small protruding seat alteration and go down one size in the waist. Luckily, I have a different cut of khaki with stretch to make these up in.

Whew. Again, overall I’m really pretty happy. I wish I’d done the swayback adjustment before making these. They might have been wearable! Feel free to tell me what you think. You won’t hurt my feelings 🙂

Posted in sewing

Let’s Look at My Crotch Curve (Or, Fitting My Badonkadonk Into Ginger Jeans)

Now that my work is all casual, all the time, I pretty much wear jeans daily. My go-to brand has been Levi’s for the last few years. But, they’ve changed the fabric makeup and cut and I can’t get the jeans that I love anymore. Plus, the ones I bought last year are already destroyed in the inner thigh and feel gross (they can keep their recycled water bottles out of my jeans thankyouverymuch).  RTW jeans are now a sad crapshoot of tears, self loathing and contempt.

Which means, it may be time for me to make my own. I have no intimidation about the construction of jeans (I made a not great fitting pair before. The comments in that post are a treasure trove). But, the fitting of them. Ugh.Yet, I’ve been intrigued by the Close Case Patterns Ginger Jeans I’ve seen in the wild. Especially LoveLola’sSewmanju and By Gum Golly.

My measurements correspond to a 16 in the pattern and that’s what I traced out. There is no vanity pattern sizing for me! Which reminds me of a friend I was helping sew and she insisted the pattern size was wrong. M’kay. That dress did NOT fit when we were done. One ‘good’ thing about gaining weight (and approaching middle age), my waist isn’t so disproportionately smaller to my hip measurements anymore. But, what I am is still built like a brickhouse. So, I decided to compare the crotch curve of my best fitting jeans with those of the Gingers so I wouldn’t blindly start altering.

Levis line is in green, Gingers in orange and the pencil is the seam line for the Gingers. Both lines on right are to the yoke.  (click to enlarge)

 photo 20150724075740623_0001_zpsu2twflj7.jpg

I have a huge ass and a severe swayback. Here’s my standard full seat, swayback, opposite-of-thigh-gap pants adjustment. I do these in every pattern line and have gotten some good fit in pants.

Which leaves me to wonder what adjustment do I make to have these fit my tuchus. I think I make the full inner thigh (which also adds some fabric to the front curve which is needed) and swayback adjustments. I’ll wait until I’ve got a muslin to pin out any darts at the waist needed since I’m not as small in the middle (but got much back).

So, um, I guess we all know what I’m doing this weekend. And, if inclined, feel free to weigh in.