Posted in sewing

Revisiting Jalie 2908: Women’s Stretch Jeans (and Fly Template Winner)

I almost forgot about the Stitch Along Fly Front Guide!  The winner is JenL! I’ll email you for your mailing address.

I’ve been getting a lot of wear from my two-tone Closet Case Ginger jeans. I probably wear my pair three times a week at least. But, the underbutt wrinkles were making me sad.  Based on how much I like having hand crafted denim, I decided to revisit the Jalie 2908 Women’s Stretch Jeans of yesteryear. I really loved how the Jalie 2908 made my butt look. I just hated the front.

When I first made them in 2009, I sewed a size W. This time, I sewed a size BB based on my measurements. Well, first I sewed a size Z and felt like a sausage in a meat packing factory. Then, I went up two sizes to my *actual* measurements and made a BB.

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So, overall, I’m pretty happy with the Jalie 2908. I think I have fewer under butt wrinkles than I did with the Ginger jeans and that’s a great place to start.

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Alterations / Changes

I slimmed down the bootcut to something akin to a very slight flare. I can’t say I used any fancy metric to do this.

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Tapered the yoke to make a swayback adjustment and drafted a countour waistband from the included straight waistband. I will say on the first size that was too small, I used the Ginger Jeans waistband and it was beautiful.  At three inches, the Jalie waistband is most def too wide for my taste. For my next version, I’ve curved it a bit more and reduced the width for a 1.5 inches finished width.

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This is a Marc Jacobs denim from Mood . I kept thinking this fabric would be too light for jeans. But, I’m an idiot because it’s perfect.  The recovery in them is AMAZING. I’ve had them on all day and they haven’t really bagged out.  I bought enough to make four pairs from this cut. But, I’ll only get two as I made one too small and managed to miscut a LOT. I really need to not sew after 10 p.m.

Here are my changes for my next version:
I’m going to shorten the front crotch length. I have that unattractive fold of fabric at the crotch. I took a little fish eye dart to the finished jeans to see how it would look and the fold went away completely. I figured this out from Marji’s comment on my post six years ago!

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Make an ‘Inward Knee Rotation’ / ‘Knock Knee’ adjustment. I’m using the Sandra Bettina method from her book Fast Fit. There are several ways to make this alteration. I’m only doing 1/2 inch as I have NO idea how this will all turn out.  Hopefully give me more fabric length at the inseam and reduce those knee winkles. See how they are pulling up at the inseam? I talked about this with Mrs. Mole at Fit For A Queen.

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I’ll also curve the waistband a bit more at CB (it gapes a smidge) and reduce waistband width.

After my next pair (which are 75 percent sewn and from the same material), I’ll evaluate (and post here) and consider making the forward/ muscular thigh adjustment. I really prefer to make one alteration at a time so I can see what happens.

So, here’s what I concluded for myself between the Gingers and the Jalies. For my body, I like the front of the Gingers and the back of the Jalies. Jalie pocket placement for my butt are perfect.  The Ginger waistband is great,  the sillouhette (skinny) preferred and the instructions overall are fabulous. But, since my rear view is what I care most about, and the things I like from the Ginger are easier to transfer to the Jalie, I’m going with Jalie 2908 as my jeans pattern.

Posted in sewing

Jalie 2796: Multi Sport Skirts w. Compression Shorts

Circa 2012

I went for a run the other day in my red and grey Jalie multi sport skirt with attached knickers (think cheerleading bottoms) and am 90 percent sure the bottom of my butt cheeks were playing peekabo with the hem of my skirt.  I was plodding along (I am ridiculously slow) and thinking my butt felt kind of cold then went in to a panic because I realized my butt wasn’t covered. Luckily, it was foggy and 6:00 a.m. so no one saw me ass out on the track. But, I came home and recognized I was going to need to make up new skirts with the compression shorts instead of knickers. I think the knickers might be better for me and biking or for those of us you who are less endowned in the rear.

This time I made three pairs with different fabric combinations. Here’s my advice when it comes to sewing these.

Plan on making multiple pairs with the same material. Each fabric produced a different fit because of changes in knit and slight changes in design.

Second, I lowered the waistband at center front. It rode way high on me as you will see below.

Third, I think the shorts are just too long for me. I’ve seen some running skirts where the shorts are visible. It’s not a look I wanted. Not having run in each pair, the length may be there for ease purposes. But, I think that you’re better off with very snug shorts that do not creep rather than longer shorts. Also, I don’t run long distances so chaffing isn’t an issue for me. Longer shorts may be better of that’s a concern.

I’m hoping these three pairs cover me through my (alleged) three runs and two bicycle commutes a week. I cut the US women’s size 8 / European 38 / Jalie ‘U’ initially. I should probably make the 10 / 40/ W with the size 6 / 36/  S waist if I stuck with this material. Any stretchier fabric and and I’d be fine having cut the size 8 / European 38 / Jalie ‘U’ .

 I’m also happy to report the compression shorts take care of my chub rub and have a slimming effect to boot.

There is a HUGE value in making a running skirt. I’ve seen them priced between $35 and $100 each. I like skirts because they are much more flattering on me and I always get stopped and asked where they can be purchased. Also, I feel less self conscious in a short skirt that short shorts.

For the main skirt of all of them, I used this cotton backed, navy blue athletic mesh with crosswise stretch I bought during PR Weekend Montreal two years ago. I think it was about $5 a yard.

Fist pair are my ‘M Go Blue’ shorts in navy and maize. I’m not a University Michigan fan and didn’t go there. But, I dated a massive Michcigan fan so I’ve seen more of their football games than I have of my alma matter, the Maryland Terrapins. The shorts on this pair are a nice thick, black wicking supplex from New York.

This was my first pair and I quickly found that the waist was too high at center front. And, ummm, way too tight across center butt.

The snug rear actually doesn’t bother me so much. But, I do think the skirt may ride up overall while jogging.

My second ‘Hooah’ pair in navy and grey are a bit of a mess.

I thought the first pair was too snug across my thighs and I decided to add some width throughout. Expect, I didn’t make the waistband bigger. So, there are some unplanned tucks in the waist band. Ultimately, shrug. They are going to be sweated in.

And, they were still too big in the waist — a problem I have with my original red pair (shown at the top)

The compression shorts on these are from my AMAZING wicking Suziplex material from Montreal. It’s smooth on one side and snuggly on the other. But, way too stretchy to actually compress in the size I cut. I need to take them in A LOT. And, I do not recommend making compression shorts in a light fabric. I look like I have on a diaper!

This final pair are the colors of my high school, so we’ll call them my ‘Shenandoah  Stars’ version. It uses the NYC black supplex for the compression shorts and I went with white for the pocket / side panel contrasts. This time I did a slash and spread in the skirt so I could maintain the nice snug waist line but get some more width at the saddlebags. Ahhhh, ease.

These were by far the best shorts! I found them in my sewing room, cut a few years ago but not sewn. They are the US women’s size 6 vs the siz 8 / 10 I’d been cutting. The supplex is strong and really compresses well. And, I hacked two inches off the bottom.

So, nothing too exciting, but absolutely useful. If you’re wondering when I became a runner, I haven’t. I’m on a the loooong  personal version of Coach to 5k  (It’s taken me three months to start Week 5 today!) I’ve also been an absentee blogger due to a fairly shittastic few weeks. There are people who clean when they are stressed. I am not one of them. But, I will exercise. Coupled by a lack of appetite and a general desire to kick someone’s — anyone’s— ass, these bouts are usually good for five pounds.

This was one of those times I’m happy I have a stash! I have two cuts of the Suziplex in eggplant and black and am thinking of turning them in to capris. My capris are both over five years old and size ‘small’ when I am currently wading in medium / large territory.

Posted in sewing

Pattern Review: Jalie 2105, Ballet Skirt

I am terribly spoiled. Pretty much everything I want to do is within 15 minutes of me. So, last year when I started my Saturday morning adult beginner ballet class, it was ambitious of me to drive 40 minutes each way at 9:00 a.m. on a Saturday morning. So, I took a break this summer. Luckily, a new dance studio opened three miles and 10 minutes from me and I started my new class last Thursday.

In honor of the new studio, it was time for a new ballet ensemble. I decided to finally whip out my Jalie 2105 pattern and take a stab at the skirt. I mean seriously. There is no way I will ever dance without something covering my thighs. Today, three versions. The fabric is probably too busy for class. But, it was in the stash. At $1.50 a yard, this skirt couldn’t be cheaper. Consider  that ballet skirts in the store *start* at $15.

For the skirt, I used a rolled hem on my serger to finish the edges. The first attempt, I made the skirt with the blanket binding by Dritz. It’s too wide and makes it tough to tie neatly. Plus, I imagine the wide ribbon will drive me a little nutty in class.

The second version I went back to the regular waistband. But, I drafted my own. I found the included waistband pattern pieces consistently too short. Maybe I was missing something. Or the bias stretched beyond repair. But, it just didn’t measure right for me.

My third and final version I added two inches of length to cover my rear end. ** This is by no means a ballet jump. I just wanted a vertical shot 🙂 If you want to see a beautiful ballet pose, check with The Selfish Seamstress. Who also has a free downloadable ballet skirt pattern.


I have the leotard cut out and will sew it up when I get around to changing my serger thread to a matching color 🙂 I told my new instructor my goal was to have dancer’s legs *and* go on point by 37. She smiled patiently at me. Let’s see what happens.

It’s funny. When Jalie first came out. I didn’t ‘get’ it. But, I now have about 10 of their patterns stashed and have loved everything of theirs I’ve made. I’m totally in love with Jalie’s new dress pattern. But, have reminded myself that it’s all wrong for my body type. I think I need to remind myself again!

Posted in sewing

Pattern Review: Jalie 2796, Multi-Sport Skirt, Compression Shorts, Hot Pants

Another Jalie MultiSport Skort

I had grand dreams today of working on a dress. But, I tried to hang last night with the 20 somethings in my office and am suffering for it today. Quick post on what I did eek out before I head out to show for Baltimore Fashion Week.

I am not a sports person. I never played organized sports and I don’t follow any.  I can’t throw a baseball and I’m scared the basketball will hit me in my face during lay ups. I once got hit in the face by a soccer ball in 8th grade and haven’t looked back since.  The only games I go to are the Oriole’s when I get free box seats at work. And, event then, I don’t watch the game. I like very little physical exercise. 1. Swimming 2. Biking 3. Ballet I used to like yoga but it’s too hard on my wrist (tendonitis).  And by like, I mean ‘don’t hate’. Be it vanity or health, exercise is a necessity and you gotta wear something cute.

I really love this Jalie 2796. Here is my second version (with knickers).  Infinitely more flattering on me than shorts. The best feature is the side pocket that can hold your iPod or Blackberry (me).

This version is with the wider waistband. I have a seam down the center back because I make a swayback adjustment which also serves a full seat adjustment.

Funny aside. When I first made this up I was slightly annoyed that Jalie just had diagrams and no written instructions. Turns out THEY DO. I just needed to actually look at the entire pattern instead of the section with photos. Doh. But, that should tell you how simple this pattern is to construct. This time, I didn’t even look at the pictures.

I actually look almost athletic, huh?

Posted in sewing

Wanna See My Muslin?

I don’t like shorts. I have horrible chub rub (from full inner thighs) and find that shorts look disgusting on me. Skirts are my preferred summer bottom option.  I’ve started taking my  bike to work twice a week. While I would love to wear cute clothes and ride chic, it’s not feasible right now.

I asked Emilie of Jalie in Montreal if they had bike shorts and she steered me to this running skirt pattern. And, I think it’s the perfect workout solution for me.

This, is my muslin. I made mine with the knicker / skirt combo. You will see in a moment why it is my muslin. I’m still going to wear it, but it is by no means the final product.

Here’s the front


Back. Oh, Whoops.

LOL. Yeah. As you can see, the running skirt has to do double time to cover my ample  rear end. So, I made a full seat / swayback adjustment to this pattern in both the knickers and in the skirt. Based on the above photo, I could have made a bigger adjustment. It’s dipping at the center back and riding up in the center. Luckily, I also have some directions on how to alter for a rising skirt in the back (an absolute epidemic on Baltimore city streets). Expect a new version soon! I’ve already made alterations to the pattern!

So, I played around with my new camera today!

Living Room