Posted in sewing

Burdastyle 2-2011 #118: Dior Dart Linen Dress

Yellow Dior-2

I’d had my eye on this pattern since it came out back in February 2011. This year, I’m sewing from a plan. Well, I wrote up a list of all the patterns or fabric combos I wanted to make and this was at the top of my list.

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I’ve always liked the seaming in the front and the cut on sleeves. At the time, I also liked the boatneck. But, have come to realize that doesn’t work great on me. So, I lowered the neckline an inch.

Yellow Dior-7

The dress isn’t your typical sack. The Dior darts and princess seams provide some visual interest and fit around the bust. And, I wanted something easy I could wear on vacation to California.

There’s a note on this pattern to see the color section of the magazine for tips on sewing “Kimono Sleeves”. If you have the US version of this magazine, said color section does not exist. Luckily, Ann is Belgium sent me photos of her French instructions. And, I have to say I needed them. I don’t read French, but the photos are really helpful. Not that I got mine looking good 😂.

Yellow Dior-4

The problem with mine is I tried to be fancy and use different seam allowances for different parts. I think for the sleeves to go well, you need to use a consistent seam allowance on the undersleeve, front, back and side piece.

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Sizing: I made a 44 grading to a 50 at the thigh (outside of the pattern range). I also made a swayback, protruding seat and 1.5″ full bust adjustment. To make a FBA on the Dior Dart I used this helpful information from Nancy K and made a Y alteration.

Yellow Dior-3

I ended up shortening the dress by 5″ to closer match the model. I think the cut line is marked incorrectly for the pattern and the first line (marked for a different model) is the correct hemline.

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That said, this is about one inch too short for me. Too short in part for comfort. But, also too short proportion wise. I think it would look best a little longer. I’ll still wear it though! But, next time will add a little length back.

This dress doesn’t photographs in a ‘flattering’ way. But, honestly, it’s comfortable, I love the color, I like how it fits and love it. I want to make it up again in a plaid I’ve had in my stash for YEARS and I’ll add a few inches back to the hemline.Yellow Dior-6

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Posted in sewing

Pattern Review: Bias Skirt, BWOF 4-2002-127

I’m borrowing a camera. I don’t want to harp, but I’m sorry about the low quality of the photos. I’ve taken to photographing facing my screen door for sunlight. But, it’s pretty overcast. We have 98 percent humidity and thunderstorms. Blech. I thought between humidity and the low 90s it was a good day to test out part of my China capsule (I bet you’re thinking September can’t come soon enough so I can stop talking about China, lol). At any rate, I’m thinking of raiding the coverstitch fund for a used Nikon D40 — a DSLR camera I’ve wanted for the last three years.

There is so very little to say about this bias skirt. It’s a very basic design with just one pattern piece. **Will have to update this. I’m showing the wrong pattern line drawing.** I think bias skirts can be a neat first project. There’s minimal fitting and the bias lends itself to design interest. I like this tangerine linen. It washed up incredibly soft and falls beautifully. Plus, it adds a great punch of color. I’ve really liked orange lately, but don’t like it close to my face because it sometimes, er, well — matches my hair color, LOL.

For skirts like this, I prefer the speed and ease of a narrow waistand. I use Dritzs’ Perfect Waist Maker. I bought about 10 yards of it in Portland last summer. I should have bought all of it. It’s a fusible interfacing with perforations at the fold line. I could have done a very slight swayback adjustment. But, I didn’t bother.

 

I let the dress hang for a few days so the bias portions would grow. There was easily almost a two inch difference in some part of the hem length. I shortened the pattern by three inches. at the hip.  I made a narrow hem on my machine.
 

I can’t think of anything else to say about this skirt. Except, the first time I made a bias skirt, I had to have a friend hem it for me. I just couldn’t handle it five years ago.

The top is my BWOF 1-2008-122 poet blouse